Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Our Four Day Summit Climb Team led by Casey Grom, and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Paradise reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. A cap covered the top of the mountain today making visibility low with wind gusts of 30 – 35mph. The teams started their descent back to Camp Muir at 7:26am PST.
Congratulations Teams!
The Four Day Summit Climb July 17 - 20 led by Mike Haugen and Leon Davis checked in at 7:40 a.m. as they were just reaching the crater rim of Mt. Rainier. The teams reported light winds and clear skies. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise later this afternoon.
The Five Day Emmons Glacier Climb July 17 - 21 led by Mike Walter also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Yesterday morning at 1 AM there were unfamiliar voices outside our tents at 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier. Someone was calling my name and so I poked my head out into the gloom and falling snow. I was a little surprised to see several of the guides from the teams we'd assumed were still up high on the mountain. The guides pointed to their combined teams taking a restbreak a few hundred feet away and in the poor light I could make out about 40 climbers. They were making a break for the airstrip and they wanted to know if I'd join in with my team. I looked down-glacier through the snow and murk to see... not a whole lot actually, but I quickly warmed to the idea of joining what would be a very strong effort in the route-finding and crevasse detection department. The other teams very graciously waited the hour-and-a-half that it took for us to fire our stoves, eat breakfast and break camp. And then, just as we were roping up, the super team got their packs on and other guides began the process of breaking trail and finding a way. This was a very sweet deal for our team as we merely hopped in at the back of the line and followed along, neatly sidestepping any holes that those near the front of the column had discovered the hard way. I'd somehow assumed that they'd woken me because they wanted me to find the way, but that wasn't the case at all and several very capable guides took turns themselves over the next six hours of working through cloud and murk and snow. It was quite a procession as fifty climbers on about 14 different ropes wound their way down the glacier. These numbers represented every climber left on the mountain... It would be a clean sweep to end the season. My own team's spirits were lightened considerably as we learned that none of the other climbers had summited either and that in fact the storms we'd largely avoided by dropping lower on the mountain were indeed big and mean and real on the upper mountain. Most of all though, my climbers were just happy to be climbing again after two long days sitting around waiting for conditions to improve. By the time we reached basecamp... Or more correctly, the place where Basecamp had been (since there was now nothing but an empty and beautiful glacier) the weather was getting better and some blue sky was developing. We built our tents though and tried not to get our hopes up for an immediate flight. The super group of fifty had one mission in common remaining as we all got out with our snowshoes on to stomp down a strip of snow to give planes an easier takeoff. Sure enough, we'd barely begun to nap when engines were heard and a mad scramble began. K2 Aviation had two big red DeHaviland Otters on skis in for us in no time at all and we were whisked off the glacier and back to Talkeetna by 5 PM. That left enough time for a quick gear sort and a long shower for each climber before dinner. Over burgers and salads at the West Rib, we had a blast toasting and laughing at ourselves and each other as we replayed the high and low points of a fine adventure in the mountains. The nightcap was at the Fairview Inn and then finally we were each in real beds again and sleeping in comfort and safety back in civilization.
Much thanks to guides Lindsay Mann and Geoff Schellens and Zeb Blais for their hard work and to the entire team for being such good sports. And of course thanks to Denali for keeping it all interesting.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Four Day Summit Climbs July 16 - 19 led by Seth Waterfall and Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning just after 7 a.m. PT. The teams reported high and low clouds with blue sky showing above and very little wind. They will enjoy some time on top today and then make their way back to Camp Muir and all the way down to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's summit climb teams!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Geoff Schellens, Lindsay Mann and Zeb Blais along with their great crew of climbers have now made the final walk down to the airstrip. Clouds around the mountain have prevented any planes from getting in today. However, the team is excited to be in position to load those planes as soon as the weather clears enough to fly.
We look forward to hearing from the team once they are back in Talkeetna (hopefully soon)!
Can’t wait to hear from you Wayne, Yippppppeeeeeeeeee, love Dinah and Sue
Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/18/2011 at 4:47 pm
This is Dave Hahn calling from 7,800’ on Mt. McKinley…still. We had another night of clouds and snow last night so we couldn't get our early start and walk out. Then the rest of the day was pretty much socked in and white as well. It is now 8:30 in the evening and it is snowing hard again.
So we're still sitting waiting for our chance to make a break for the air strip. It was a long day and a quiet day today. No airplanes were flying overhead it seemed like there was storm all around and at all levels. But we're doing alright. Everybody is fed and dry and in their sleeping bags now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Sending positive vibes for the weather to cooperate to make your decent to the airstrip. Will have longer to plan the homecoming celebrations. love Dinah and Sue
Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/18/2011 at 11:21 am
The Four Day Summit Climbs led by Brent Okita and Gabriel Barral were forced to turn the climbs today at approximately 11,800' due to gusty winds and poor visibility. The teams checked in from Camp Muir shortly after 7 a.m. and reported windy conditions. There is a cloud cap on the mountain this morning that has descended to the top of Disappointment Cleaver at approximately 12,300'.
The teams will be starting their descent from Camp Muir to Paradise later this morning.
The Four Day Summit Climb July 14 - 17 led by Jason Thompson and Walter Hailes were forced to turn around today at 13,200'. The team encountered strong winds and poor visibility. It has also been snowing heavily. The team will descend to Camp Muir to re-pack and re-fuel before continuing their descent to Paradise.
There wasn't much chance to finish the journey this morning as it snowed until about 8 AM. By nine the sun was poking through and we knew we couldn't count on the glacier surface being firm enough for safe travel. So we sat for the day and waited for a clear and cold night. We've waited through many days on this trip and this was one of the tougher ones. Denali was out in all of its glory and although from a distance we could no longer tell just how much snow it had gotten or how hard the wind might be blowing, it sure looked climbable. Our climbing tomorrow morning will be in the other direction, but these will surely be the most important steps we take on the entire trip. The lower glacier in mid-July demands respect. We'll get moving by three or four in the morning and will try to reach the airstrip by 9 or 10.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Dr. Spencer Guinn, What an amazing journey! We miss you and can’t wait to hear some stories! We will be praying for you & the entire team’s safe return! -Your OR Family
Posted by: Susan Webb on 7/17/2011 at 4:06 pm
safe safe trip down!
Posted by: michelle on 7/17/2011 at 11:47 am
7800' Kahiltna Glacier
We had high hopes this morning at 14 Camp. The sky was clear and although we could see signs of wind up high on Denali's South Peak, we believed we could finally get up to 17,200'. At least we felt that enthusiasm until just after breakfast when I used the satellite phone to track down the weather forecast. It called for snow. It actually called for lots of snow... Like 30 inches in the next 24 hours. This was difficult information to reconcile with the sparkling blue sky and brilliant sunshine we were then enjoying. And it was particularly hard to reconcile such a possibility of big snow with our diminished food supplies. I gathered the team and gave them the hard conclusion the four guides had reached: we could not go up with such a prediction on our 17th day of a 22 day trip. If the forecast were even half right, we'd be trapped at 17,000 ft waiting for avalanche conditions to stabilize and by the time we were on our way down the mountain we wouldn't have enough food to deal with any further setbacks to our progress. In mid-July with no Park Service personnel on the mountain and with no well-worn track in the snow and with plentiful crevasse puzzles to solve down low on the glacier, we needed to anticipate further challenges to our descent of the mountain. We could no longer look up the hill. In fact, we couldn't even sit at 14 Camp long enough to see if the dire snow predictions came true since such a snowfall would set up a significant avalanche hazard threatening our route down to 11,000'. It was a tough thing then to let go of our summit ambitions while the sun was shining and while we still had food and fuel and while the remaining teams on the mountain reached seemingly opposite conclusions as to how to deal with the storm. But we packed up anyway and started carefully down the mountain. Ever so slowly, the clouds moved in, but we still had great views from Windy Corner and excellent traveling conditions down through 11 camp. It got a bit murky and mushy as we pushed down onto the main Kahiltna Glacier and we needed to be careful of sagging snow bridges on the crevasses of Ski Hill, but that all worked out fine. In just over six hours we reached 7800' and called a halt to the day's march. Time for dinner and some rest in our tents. The glacier surface is soft, soggy and not terribly supportive and the light is flat... Not ideal conditions for taking on complicated crevasse fields. We ate dinner and got in our tents as the snow began to fall. Our focus is now on completing the final push to the airstrip, but on our terms -when conditions are favorable.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
To Dave and the team, Sending warm wishes for a safe return down the mountain. I have infinite thanks to Dave and the team for maintaining safety as the number one priority. To all of the climbers (especially John M)- we are all so proud of you. Though your summit bid plans had changed, I am inspired by the journey you took to get there. I can imagine this being a memorable experience for each and everyone of you. I applaud you all for your inspiring patience, outstanding discipline, and stellar persistence in moving up Mount McKinley. Cheers to you all!!
Posted by: Jennifer on 7/16/2011 at 10:22 am
Dear Daddy and Dave and team
We know you weren’t just there to tick off a box we know that you were just there to have fun!!!!!!You’re the best dad ever and you’re very brave
From Claire and Sietse
Posted by: Claire and Sietse on 7/16/2011 at 9:58 am
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very nice pic!
Posted by: michelle on 7/20/2011 at 4:34 am
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