Entries from Expedition Dispatches
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Hola de Argentina...
Well our fearless team assembled in its entirety today to begin our expedition on the mighty mass of stone called Aconcagua. Haha. Pete and myself completed all of the pickups at the airport today in three separate trips and were delighted to find that none of the team members were seriously delayed and that all of the luggage has safely arrived. Mendoza is situated on the plains that approach the Andes, something like 3,000' of elevation; pretty low and subsequently really hot. The majority of us spent the day trying to recuperate from long stretches of travel by chilling (or sweating really) poolside at the hotel. Today was Sunday so most of the businesses were closed. Everything is still on schedule for hitting the trail day after tomorrow. We all enjoyed some of Argentina's famous beef and wine this evening at a great parrilla near the hotel. Everyone is really psyched for the big adventure! We'll check in once more before we hit the trail tomorrow evening.
Ciao,
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, and the team
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Our climbing team is rested and well-fed, and we’re all back in Quito enjoying some free time as I right this last dispatch for our trip. We had a great trip, jam-packed with activities during the past week. In addition to summiting 3 high peaks in 4 days, we had time to enjoy a great hacienda on the flanks of Cotopaxi, some sightseeing in Quito, as well as enjoying each others’ company. We’re already starting to plan the next climbing trip! We’ll have a celebration dinner in Quito tonight, and then we’ll head our separate directions…most of us are heading home, but two of the climbers are headed to Mendoza, Argentina tomorrow to begin a RMI expedition on Aconcagua. Be sure to check their dispatches to follow how they are doing!
Hasta la próxima montaña… RMI Guide Mike Walter
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
We're all down from Cotopaxi, healthy and happy after a successful summit climb! We woke up at midnight and left the climbers' hut at ~1:30 am... headed for the summit. The weather was spectacular: no wind, moderate temperature, and a crystal clear, starry sky. Our team climbed strong, and 7 1/2 hours later we were all congratulating each other on top! The snow conditions were perfect for cramponing--a good thing because we had some exposed traverses and a steep ice chute to negotiate up near the summit. The route was very enjoyable, and challenged us not only with its altitude, but its variety.
This team of climbers attempted Cotopaxi last summer, but we were denied its summit by a violent storm. Persistent folks we climbers are; we scheduled this reunion trip and it paid dividends. We had great climbing weather and summitted 3 peaks in 4 days... all of which are higher than any peak in the Continental US!
Now we're getting some much needed rest at the hacienda Chilcabamba. After a leisurely breakfast we'll head back to Quito tomorrow morning. I'll be in touch tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Congrats!
3 peaks in 4 days!?! That’s great.
Posted by: Nuno on 1/27/2011 at 8:26 pm
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
We have spent a few days in Mendoza City enjoying the great weather that this place offers in January (southern hemisphere summer). The swimming pool was the RMI meeting center during the afternoons...
Dinners (Argentinian beef and Malbec wines) have been excellent according to the taste of our team. The team members began to depart to the U.S. today. This was a great trip, with a lot of fun, unique views, amazing people, and a safe, successful ascent.
Cheers and thank you for following our progress on this expedition to the top of South America.
RMI Guides Gabriel Barral, Pete Van Deventer and Garret Stevens
It was fun to follow the team’s progress on the blog. So thankful that everything went well for you all! :)
Posted by: Judy H. on 1/27/2011 at 7:11 pm
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Mike called at 6:10 a.m. PT from the summit of Cotopaxi.
The entire team reached the summit at 9 o'clock local time. It was a beautiful day with not a breath of wind.
Everyone was doing great. They were planning to descend shortly and will provide a written dispatch later today.
Congratulations to the RMI Cotopaxi Team!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
The RMI Aconcagua Team has returned to Mendoza.
They are enjoying sunshine and 90 degree temperatures. The team celebrated their return with a great dinner of steak and wine.
Everyone will be heading home soon.
Congratulations to the team for a safe and successful expedition!
So happy for you all! Congratulations! :D
PS: Would love one last picture of the post-climb team! :)
Posted by: Judy H. on 1/27/2011 at 2:44 pm
Hello from the Cotopaxi climbers' hut!
We awoke this morning to a crystal clear sky and a beatiful veiw of Cotopaxi from our haciena. After a relaxing breakfast we finalized our packing and drove into Cotopaxi National Park, and up a scenic road towards the climbers' hut. A series of switchbacks and 45 minutes later we arrived at the hut. We spent the bulk of the day hydrating, eating, relaxing, chewing the fat, and getting used to the thin air at 16,000'.
We're heading to bed early in preparation for an alpine start and our summit push. The weather looks good right now...keep your fingers crossed for us. Hopefully our next dispatch will be after we summit. We'll try to send some good climbing photos tomorrow also.
Hasta entonces...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
We had a great climb of Iliniza Norte today. Conditions were good, a mix of rock and snow, with a steep scramble to the summit at ~16,500'. The weather was good- at times we were climbing in the clouds, and at others we had good views of other high peaks in Ecuador, including Antisana, Cayambe, and our next objective, Cotopaxi.
On the drive down from the climb today we were treated to two condors soaring above us. It was majestic to see their 10-foot wingspan backdropped against a verdant patchwork of Andean farm country.
We're now headed to the hacienda Chilcabamba, where we will get a chance to shower and rest before heading up to the climbers' hut on Cotopaxi tomorrow.
Everyone is doing great, and we give a big "hola" to everyone back home.
We'll be in touch soon.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Hey Guys…Hope you are safe and having fun!
Tell my man I LOVE HIM!!!!
-MK
Posted by: MK on 1/26/2011 at 10:06 am
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Antarctica didn't let us go easily. It was 1:00 AM when we saw the definitively-Russian Ilyushin lumbering through the Antarctic sky. The temperature was some 20 below, and the 30 knot winds made it feel much, much colder, ripping heat from exposed flesh with efficiency. But, for a huge jet landing on a strip of blue ice, a strong headwind is a nice thing, helping to slow the giant bird down.
With a delicate landing that defied its massive bulk, the Ilyushin touched down to many a camera-shutter click and loud cheer. After days of delay, strikes, broken parts, and other issues, we were all ready to move onward. After unloading many tons of Jet A aviation fuel in 55 gallon drums, the ALE team called us all to board. A few moments later, doors were closed, engines spun up, and the pilots lifted us off the runway as smoothly as they had landed; it was hard to tell we had even gone airborne. While on the flight down we all were wired with excitement and slept but little, this flight was the inverse: tired from days of climbing, we all quickly succumbed to the late hour and fell asleep. In hindsight, the bit of wine and beer we had at Union before leaving might have helped a wee bit, too.
At 7:00 AM, another masterful landing thumped us down on the tarmac in Punta Arenas. As we exited the hulking Ilyushin, we could all smell it and see it: Green things. Trees, plants, animals. Life. After 3 weeks on the ice - in a land of intense beauty, but almost completely devoid of life - it was a welcome sight. The idea of a bed rather than a Thermarest, and walls instead of nylon, wasn't bad either. So, we quickly headed to to the hotel.
It always amazes me how quickly we transition in these modern times. It wasn't that long ago that expeditions wound down slowly, and reintegration into "normal" life took time. The body, and more importantly the mind, was granted simply through logistics the luxury of moving from the stark mental and physical environment of the expedition back to the frenetic pace of life in a slow manner. Today, it's anything but slow. Just hours ago we sat on a glacier on the bottom of the world, climbing mountains and routes which had never seen humans. And, now, just hours later, I'm on the internet in a hotel amidst a bustling city, and the rest of my team is on an airplane, well on their way to home, family, life. Amazing, and hard to digest.
Like the departure, the return home is something of a bittersweet affair. Certainly, in the words of Big Head Todd, "more sweet than bitter", but still a challenge. We who go to the mountains generally do so for a reason. It feeds us. It grounds us. It makes us thrive. The simplicity of the mountain life is wholly engaging, and leaving it is tough. But, to simply remain would be avoidance, escapism. And, perhaps, make the love of the mountains moot, for without black we cannot have white. It is only by leaving home that we realize how fortunate we are, and for some of us it is only by living the mountain life - and then leaving it for a time - that we remember to value it and apply its lessons and teachings to our lives back home.
As I sit here in Punta, backing up gigabytes of images, listening to CNN, and watching ships bob in the nearby harbor, this all rushes through my mind. I am excited beyond words to get home. It's been far too long since I've hugged my children and my wife, and patted my dog's head. I long to answer my daughter's questions, to hear about her day, and listen to my son say her name - a new trick he developed during my absence. But, I also know that, before long, the flood of emails and deadlines and bills and housework and the frenetic pace of modern life will threaten to overwhelm. It is then, I hope, that my mind will harken back to the austere simplicity of Antarctic life. I hope I will be able to conjure up the invigorating lessons of the high peaks, my mountain mind speaking to me through the fog of modern life: "You're but a small part of a big machine. Be humble. Hug your family. Be thankful. Smile.
Relax...Focus on what's important in life, the fundamentals, for soon you'll be back again in the mountains.
-Jake Norton
Nice wrap up Jake. Well written. Be sure to shower before hugging your wife. pw
Posted by: peter whittaker on 1/30/2011 at 7:25 am
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
We had a great hike down to Pampa de Las Leñas. A little rain on the way but has changed to blue skies. The team is doing well and is excited to celebrate our last night in the mountains with an Argentine-style barbecue. We'll check in tomorrow from Mendoza!
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral & the Aconcagua team
Hope you are enjoying Mendoza with your 2 xtr days,
excited to hear the details.
Posted by: Fred & Jan on 1/27/2011 at 8:21 am
Keith. . .
Glad you made it. . . on a side note, you’re “on-call” when you return and while I’m skiing next week.
Kamran sends his love, and since it snowed 1 inch today, he of course stayed home. I am piss!
Posted by: Brian E on 1/26/2011 at 12:29 pm
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Hi Seth:
Johnny and I were close to Kotapaxi a few years ago—have fun.
Love, Brigid
Posted by: Brigid on 1/30/2011 at 1:56 pm
What a beautiful picture. Great job to the team. Love to my brother, Bob. See you soon!
Posted by: K Deeds on 1/28/2011 at 12:29 pm
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