Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Saying hello from our final day at Camp 1. Currently we're resting up for a big push up to Camp 2 tomorrow. The team is acclimatizing well and getting stronger by the day. We're really starting to feel like we're getting up there. Wish us luck as we push higher and begin staging for our summit bid later this week!
Hello everybody!
Billy and Jake here with a dispatch from lovely Camp 1 on Aconcagua. Last night we were visited in camp by both a hawk and a fox; hopefully these are good omens for the rest of our climb. We spent most of today lounging around camp enjoying the sunshine. Tomorrow's plans call for a carry up to Camp 2 up above 19,000'! Should be a tough day but we expect everyone to do well. Thanks to all the friends and family who've been following along.
Our group is back at Basecamp after a carry to Camp 1 today where we cached some gear. We enjoyed a rest day yesterday after arriving at Basecamp (13,800'). Everyone is doing well and using this time to acclimate, rest and prepare for our move to Camp 1 (16,200') tomorrow. We will check in again soon.
Hey gang!
Billy and Jake here checking in from the beautiful but dusty Aconcagua basecamp. Our crew rolled in today; climbing strong and feeling great. On our way up today we bumped into the other descending RMI crew and it was good to see some familiar (if not famous) faces. Our walk in from the road has been a long and hot one but the team is in great spirits nonetheless. Tomorrow's plans call for a well deserved rest day.
Everyone on the team would like to send their love to friends and family!
Last night at high camp, it just didn't seem like we would get a chance to make the top of Aconcagua... it was snowing and socked in when I sent yesterday's dispatch. But then, just before darkness came on, the snow stopped and the clouds dropped. During the night there were occasional waves of intense wind that could be heard coming from miles away, but these were short bursts and sure enough, at 4 AM the stars were out and the wind was gone. Our stoves were cooking by 4:15 and we were walking out of camp by headlamp at around 5:15 AM, bound for the summit.
We had crampons on all the way and were lucky to be on snow for about 95% of our journey. Peter mentioned that he'd done the same climb without once touching snow, just loose rock, so we were happy with the conditions. It wasn't terribly cold and once we found sunshine things were quite pleasant. We lost that sunshine when we began the long, long traverse to the base of the Canaleta. There were perhaps a hundred other climbers going for the top today, but we ended up nearly in the lead by half-way up the steep and direct Canaleta. This broad gulley is about 800 vertical feet... easy at sea level, I'm sure, but beginning at 22,000 ft makes it somewhat challenging. We were challenged, but all did well, the extra nights at high camp had worked in our favor for acclimatization.
We popped out on the summit at noon and enjoyed a sunny and wonderful hour up there. We were victorious and thrilled with the new views... but several of us cried like babies as we remembered our friend Fede and his tragic passing on the summit of Aconcagua all too recently. We left the top at 1 PM and walked quickly into a snowstorm. Not a vicious snowstorm, there was little wind, but a socked-in, steady snowfall. It only took us two hours to make it back to high camp and so we knocked the tents down and set out walking for basecamp. We were anxious to get down and rejoin the rest of our team who'd descended yesterday.
In Basecamp by about 6:30, we had a fine reunion dinner and made plans for our walk down-valley begining tomorrow.
An improbable summit became a treasured moment with great friends close to 23,000 ft above sea level. All are safe, all are down the hard part of the mountain.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Humbleness is the key ingredient for climbing mountains. To embody the notion that you, the climber, are such a small part of the dynamic equation needed to safely climb an incredible peak is as challenging as the actual climbing. Our team was faced with such a challenge once we reached our high camp on El Pico de Orizaba. Weather was not cooperating with our plans to attempt the summit as wind, precipitation, and low visibility engulfed the mountain well into the morning. Many a time, emergency situations that arise in the mountains are rarely the product of just one issue, rather many tiny poor decisions that escalate to something worse. We discussed this over as a group and agreed that if we had left in poor visibility, precipitation, tough route finding, and difficult travel with the fresh snow we were not setting ourselves up for success and safety.
The weather slowly eased it's temper as the sun began to rise revealing a beautiful, snow-covered landscape reaching down to nearly 12,500'. This unusual winter storm has left a dry, dessert-like alpine environment encased in the cold grasp of winter. A cloud cap swarmed the upper reaches of the Jamapa Glacier as our team headed out for a hike in hopes of reaching the glacier. Watching the wind whip through the mountain up high, reminded us how unforgiving mountaineering can be. The snow became deeper and deeper as we approached the last section of the rocky labyrinth just below the glacier. At the foot of the glacier, around 16,500 ft our team was knee deep in snow, gazing at the summit in awe. From this point the summit was beckoning us to climb, what looked like only a stone's throw away. This is when one must face the reality in this case of what looks so close is easily 3 hours away and with deep snow, more like 4 hours. Too long, too exhausting, too dangerous at this point to go on. Our team, satisfied with the journey and experience of climbing in Mexico, returned to the Reyes' lodge for some relaxation prior to our departure home.
As we sat at our gates waiting for our respective flights, we all began to dream, to wonder of the next climb. For some us, a return trip is on the bill. For others, a future mountaineering expedition is right around the corner. For all, a peace knowing we came home safe, friends, and hungry for more. Thank you to Tom, Casey, Ryan, Jayson, Mazzie, Seamus, Collin, and Marty for making this an amazing climbing program for RMI!
Not too many of us got good sleep last night. Waves of wind rolled through, driving snow and rattling nerves. The alarm clocks went off at 4:30 AM but the wind hadn't let up by that point. It did eventually calm down with daybreak... just a little too late for us to go for Aconcagua's summit. We all crawled out for breakfast and to dry out and stare at the storm's leavings. There was still some sign of wind up high, but all-in-all, we enjoyed a calm morning. The decision was made for part of the team to descend and wait things out at Basecamp while the rest of us tried for one more lucky day. All were sorry to see Melissa, Gerry, Rachel and Kelly walk out under big packs a little after mid-day. The clouds were already building by then for the next storm and sure enough, by mid-afternoon it was snowing and we were resting quietly in our tents... waiting patiently for another chance. Dinner was in steadily falling snow, but at least there wasn't a puff of wind to mess with the team's enjoyment of their mac-and-cheese-supreme. We'll hope that the snow quits and that the stars come out at some point tonight... we turn in ready to jump all over a summit bid tomorrow.
Stay tuned.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Hey, just dropping a line really quickly.
We have been running around like crazy here in Los Penitentes getting all of our things ready for the big trip ahead. Needless to say it was a bit of a late night last night but we seem to be caught up with everything. The effects of the airline delays and the late arrival of our baggage have put us behind schedule but I think we are about to leave the hustle and bustle behind. We plan on finishing up the last of the packing this morning and hitting the trail for the mountain sometime around noon today. Everybody in the group is really excited about the journey ahead, if not a bit anxious. We will check in via sat phone sometime tonight from our first camp on the approach, Pampa de Lenas.
Wish us luck
Up at 2:30 AM this morning to start the stoves and go for a climb. It had been a still and calm night until around midnight when a wind began, but it wasn't a very strong wind and we considered ourselves quite lucky as we set out around 4 AM under starry and clear skies. The team wore crampons from the outset as our "trail" was packed snow on a long traverse to a camp called "Black Rock" on the normal Aconcagua route. We have been climbing the "False Polish" route and this is where it joins the Routa Normal. Everybody was climbing well, the production teams got their sunrise shots (sunrise on the rest of the planet, we were in shadow) and we were making good progress. It seemed just a matter of time until the whole team stood on the summit, but as we reached 21,400 ft we saw the first signs of wind-driven clouds ripping from the summit ridge and the odd sheet of low cloud scudding over the summits far below us. We began the traverse to the Canaleta, the key gulley giving access to the summit ridge, but we were turned back by wind and cold. Peter made the decision to wait for sun in a sheltered spot at around 21,300 ft where the team could recharge and get ready for either a brutal push up into the wind or a quick descent should conditions deteriorate. Conditions worsened before our eyes as a cloud cap built and lowered on the mountain. The smart and easy call to head for high camp was made and we were easily in camp again by 9:15 AM. The snow started at around 10:30 AM and we climbed into our tents to rest and relax. Our hope, of course, is that today's foray, a record breaker in altitude terms for some of the team, will turn into the perfect rehearsal for our successful summit bid... maybe tomorrow. For now, we are safe and sound and warm... the winds seem to be calming and although it is still snowing, there is plenty of reason for optimism.
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Hello my name is Richard, I am very interested in climbing the largest summit in Argentina
Aconcagua .
I have hiked Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa two yrs Ava , then Highest mt in Ecuador.
I would like to see how many days it would have to take metro climb to top .
Also price for me including food, lodge ,etc
Please contact me as soon as possible so I can make my plans.
Thank you very much for your time.
Richard klein
Posted by: Richard klein on 8/7/2019 at 1:45 pm
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