Wednesday, July 6, 2016 - 1:38 a.m. PDT
We were hoping for an accidental break in the weather today. Some morning blue sky or a little unplanned sunshine, but that didn't happen. It was cloudy at every level of the sky that we could see from our camp at 14,000ft. But we couldn't see much sign of wind. We ate breakfast and watched the weather, we got ourselves organized and watched the weather. Finally we decided to go for it... to try moving up to high camp at 17,000ft. We knew a couple of teams were coming down, which was important because we wanted to use the track they plowed through the deep snow. We didn't get much encouragement from the sky- it began to snow lightly, still we left 14K Camp a little before noon. It was tough climbing, as expected with all of the new snow, but our timing was pretty good for using the tracks hammered in by others. At 16,200ft, our high point of the other day, the weather was still a little sloppy, but the team was strong and enthusiastic, so we went on up the steep crest of the West Buttress. Normally climbers have to consciously avoid looking down the steep dropoffs under the crampons, but today, with all of the cloud shrouding the scenery, it wasn't a very airy feeling walking along the ridge. We got into 17K Camp around 7:00 in the evening in blessedly calm conditions and set in to the hard work of building a secure camp. The team is excited to have capitalized on a slim opportunity and excited to be so close to our goal now after two weeks of trying.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
And we arrived to Copa BC! A good 5 hour approach, brought us to the drainage if the Lajiacocha lake, at some 14,800ft. Some clouds are currently covering the skies, and we can tell snow falling up high, but spirits are high...we're on the mountains! Our cook is prepping our dinner, and the night is falling. Without going crazy, tomorrow we'll move to high camp. We'll be calling from there, all excited about our summit push!
RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos and Team.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens led the Four Day Summit Climb team to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. While on the summit, Geoff reported cold and windy weather with clear skies. The team began their descent around 7:30 a.m. and will return to Ashford later this afternoon.
Way to climb!
Thanks so much Geoff, Nikki, and Blake, and the rest of the team. Matt and I had a blast climbing with you all. Best of luck to everyone on your next mountain adventure!
M+M
Posted by: Meredith on 7/7/2016 at 12:44 pm
Thanks Geoff, Nikki and Blake. This was a great climb and an excellent experience overall :)
The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Sid Pattison reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Sid reported cold, clear and breezy skies on the summit. The team began their descent at 7:30 a.m. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford later this afternoon.
Congratulations climbers!
So much for a lazy rest day yesterday. Instead, we jammed the day full of activities. We spent the morning enjoying the world famous Plaza de Ponchos market in Otavalo, where we had a few hours to roam the streets, haggling with vendors for the best price on many handmade craft goods, from alpaca blankets to paintings to jewelry. After regrouping for lunch we ventured out of the normal tourist confines and explored the local market. Here, locals sell fruits, vegetables, sides of beef, whole-cooked pig, you name it…the sounds, sights, and smells were all exotic and a unique cultural experience.
After returning to our hacienda, we made a quick turn around and went on a short hike to the Cascadas de Peguche, a beautiful waterfall near our hacienda. Ok, we managed to get some rest in also.
This morning we are starting with a leisurely breakfast and then we will head for the Cayambe climbers’ hut. In order to reach the hut we will have to transfer to four-wheel drive vehicles and travel far into the Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve. The climbers’ hut will be our home for tonight as we get ready for an early alpine start for our summit attempt on Cayambe. At nearly 19,000’, Cayambe will test our endurance, acclimatization, and climbing techniques. We will let you know how it goes. Hopefully we will return with photos of summit high-fives.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
Last night was full of gigantic fireworks set to the tune of the Star Wars anthem…on YouTube…on my laptop! But heh, it was a great way to spend Fourth of July and with great company.
We spent today finally stretching our legs and getting into the high altitude zone. Our team had a beautiful day trekking up to 12,000' on Peak Cheget. Don’t take my word for it…check out the video!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Monday, July 4, 2016 - 10:35 p.m. PDT
Good evening from Huaraz,
We descended this morning from Ishinca Base Camp, and by early afternoon, we arrived at the trailhead of Pashpa. After unloading the donkeys and loading the bus, a one hour drive took us back to our hotel in Huaraz. Early tomorrow morning we'll depart for the trail head of Vicos, towards Copa Base Camp. The climbing team is doing well and motivated for the upcoming objective, a Denali sized mountain on a range with more than 100 peaks of that height! We'll be checking in from our camps in the upcoming days.
Regards,
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Monday, July 4, 2016 - 10:31 p.m. PDT
Seeing as how we got about 24 inches of snow in yesterday's 24 hours, chances were small that we'd get to move higher today. Sure enough, even though we had some calm and cloud-free skies overhead this morning, the decision was made to let the avalanche slopes settle for a day. We contented ourselves with a trail breaking journey over to the "Edge of the World." Clouds came in while we were out at the normally breathtaking vantage point, which lessened the thrill somewhat, but we all still enjoyed the chance to stretch our legs and mug for the cameras at the point where our plateau drops about a vertical mile down to the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
The rest of the day was spent lounging in camp under cloud and light snow at 14,000', reminiscing about all the Fourth of Julys when we hadn't been lucky enough to be halfway up America's greatest mountain.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team
Beautiful pictures! I hope you’re having a great time Robin! Looks like you all are making steady progress. Keep up the great work! Julia, Charlotte, and I had a great July 4th weekend at the beach with mom and dad. It was very hot though, totally opposite from your environment! Mom wishes you well too. She can’t post because it gives her an error message she says. Best of luck in the days ahead! Let’s do this Cletus!
July 4, 2016 - 5:11 am PT
Here’s a quick update from the past two days:
Yesterday wet and windy conditions kept us in the climbers’ hut until after lunch, when the weather improved…slightly. We quickly packed our bags and headed up Iliniza Norte, scrambling up a steep rock ridge with fresh rime ice on it. Due to our late start and deteriorating weather, we turned around at Paso de la Muerte (Death Pass, ~5000m), a few hundred feet shy of the summit. Strong winds and very poor visibility accompanied us for the entire descent, but we safely arrived back at the hut with plenty of daylight. It was a fun day of climbing and great acclimatization.
Today we woke early to starry skies and light winds. After a light alpine breakfast we set out for Iliniza Sur. The good weather lasted all day and, after being challenged by steep snow and ice, rock climbing, and high altitude climbing, we arrived at the summit! Seven hours after leaving the hut this morning we strolled back in for a quick lunch and some coffee, before packing our bags and heading back down to the parking lot.
I am writing this dispatch on my phone (without service) as we drive north to our hacienda for the night. I’ll upload pictures tomorrow, when I can track down some more reliable Wi-Fi…be sure to check back, we got some great pics today! Priorities tonight are showers, dinner, and comfy beds!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
We had a successful day traveling by planes, trains and automobiles! After a long day we have arrived in the little ski town of Cheget. It is raining cats and dogs so our evening dinner is inside the warmth of our comfortable hotel. The team is having fun as we slowly ease into the adventure. Tomorrow we will get out and stretch the legs with a good acclimatization hike. Stay tuned for some action packed photos and videos.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
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Robin & Group: Almost there. Good Luck.
Posted by: Kent on 7/6/2016 at 3:59 pm
Can hear you now KMan - “Let’s Go”! Hang Ten Bro!
Posted by: Charles Holliman on 7/6/2016 at 3:40 pm
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