Posts for Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Cache Supplies at 16,200’

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 06, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday July 5th 10:26 pm PT

We started walking uphill at 10 this morning.  There was a mean-looking cloudcap on Denali when we first looked up, but things mellowed as we ate breakfast and geared up.  We made excellent time, climbing up the fixed line section to 16,200 ft on the West Buttress, and in the process, we shattered altitude records for Gary, Peter and Pat.  It took a few minutes to cache food in a raven-proof snow hole up there and then we cruised down with light packs.  It turned out to be a sunny and warm day down at 14K Camp and we were happy to rack out for a few hours in warm tents before dinner.  We’ve earned a rest and acclimatization day tomorrow.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Mt. McKinley's 14K Camp. Photo: John Race

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11

Bravo! Love the photos. But you guys need big neon name tags on the backs of your jackets! Proud ! Proud ! Proud !

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Posted by: Anne Thomas on 7/7/2015 at 1:31 am

Many thanks Dave Hahn for each peace of info on your team progress we are craving for. Greetings to all team supporters and very special ones to Chris (Krzys) supporters.… read more

Posted by: Wieslaw on 7/6/2015 at 11:29 pm


Mt. Rainier: July 6th Update

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Pete Van Deventer | July 06, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Mount Rainier Four-Day and Five-Day Summit Climbs reached the summit early this morning.  The teams reported winds and a small cap forming, as they started their descent the winds have calmed and it is a beautiful morning.

View of Mount Rainier from Paradise. Photo: NPS Webcam
4

Congrats Bob and Theo!  So totally impressed!

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Posted by: Maureen on 7/6/2015 at 2:04 pm

Great adventure Matt.  Proud of you

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Posted by: Georgia on 7/6/2015 at 1:54 pm


Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Check In from Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 05, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

¡Hola again from BC!

In case you missed our call this morning, here is the recap; another 100% summit success!!! Everyone did an excellent job on our climb up Urus East, a step above the previous Ishinca, on a day where we encountered steep terrain, short pitches, involved scrambles and rewarding rappels. Our views of distant Copa, where we head next, from the top, were jaw dropping; all of us can’t wait to head there day after tomorrow. We’re enjoying dinner as we speak, and in twelve hours we’ll be hitting the trail downhill towards Huaraz for a day. Stay tuned!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Leave 11K Camp Headed for Base Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 05, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday July 5th 10:45 am PT

RMI Guide Billy Nugent just called the office to check in.  The team had a long, tough day yesterday breaking trail through the new snow that had fallen on the route. After sleeping in this morning, they are getting ready to depart Denali’s 11K Camp.  They are hoping to be at Kahiltna Base by late afternoon/early evening.

An RMI team leaving Denali's 11K Camp, descending to Base Camp. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Summit Nevados Urus

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 05, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,800'

Hello, this is the RMI crew on top of Mount Urus. This is guides Elias, Peter and Robby.  We are going to show you the excitement of the crew. {Cheers from the team!] I think that was loud and clear but once again 100% on the top of Nevado Urus. We're pretty psyched. It's 10 o'clock local time and we are having a great time. The weather gave us a break. Been a couple days of snow but we are under sunny skies now looking at our next objective, Copa, and if I turn around, I’ll be looking at our last objective, Ishinca. Stay tuned. We’ll be letting you know how we are doing on the last stretch in the next couple days. That’s it from the top of Urus. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Climbing Nevados Urus in the Ishinca Valley, Peru. Photo: Lindsay Mann Tocllaraju from Nevados Urus summit. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calling from the Nevados Urus summit!

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1

Congrats to my Dad (Larry) and the rest of the team! Keep up the hard work and stay safe. Finger crossed on 3 for 3.

We’re thinking of you… read more

Posted by: Ryan Burg on 7/6/2015 at 1:20 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Backcarry Gear to 14K Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 05, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday July 4th 11:00 pm PT

Our first morning at 14K camp was calm and easy.  We slept in until the sun peaked over Denali’s West Rib at 9:15 AM.  We had a leisurely breakfast in our new POSH dining tent (stolen from Billy Nugent’s RMI Team) and then we geared up for retrieving our cached food, fuel and equipment from 13,500 ft.  That just took us about two hours, round trip, and then the team took it easy for the afternoon.  Billy Nugent’s team made the top yesterday and we were happy to share camp with them for a couple of hours as they passed through on their descent to 11,000 ft.  After dinner, we had a short refresher training session on climbing fixed ropes as of course that is our next goal, to climb the fixed ropes to 16,200 ft.  As usual, we’ll need to see what the weather does… it started snowing again this afternoon. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Mt. Foraker from Mt. McKinley's 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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1

Gary Ross/Team Hahn:  USA Women win the World Cup 5-2….now its time for Team Hahn to go on strong and scale Denali in championship fashion!!!!!!!

Keep Charging…Score the big… read more

Posted by: Chip Sniffin on 7/5/2015 at 5:15 pm


Mt. Rainier: July 5th Summit!

Posted by: Brent Okita | July 05, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Brent Okita and the Four Day Summit Climb team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  Brent reported a great climbing and a beautiful day. 

Congratulations to Today’s Team!


Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Spend Day Training

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

Greetings!

We’re ready for our next objective, Nevado Urus. We all appreciated a rest day today, after yesterday’s summit on Ishinca. We spent the day learning and practicing rappelling as well as fixed line ascension in the vicinity of base camp. We also had a thorough discussion regarding expedition planning. Now we’re packing for tomorrow’s alpine start, hoping to tackle Nevado Urus before the forecasted weather pattern hits - grapple to snow in the mid-afternoon. That’s it for now!

Wish us luck tomorrow,
RMI Guide Elías and team

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1

Good luck on your journey & have fun.

I will be thinking of your far more vigorous struggles as I hike up easy Pinnacle Mtn, tomorrow.

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Posted by: Eddie Vollman on 7/4/2015 at 7:06 pm


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador
Elevation: 15,300'

After a relaxing evening at Casa Sol, this morning finds us in the indigenous center of Otavalo. We’re spending a few hours strolling the streets and exploring the bustling Saturday market. Saturdays here are a sensory overload of sights, smells, and sounds, as the market is loaded with handmade crafts, jewelry, woven goods, art, and more. Delicious aromas from all of the restaurants and food vendors fill the air.

After lunch we’ll head up to the Cayambe Climbers’ Hut, where we’ll spend the next two nights. It will be our first stint at sleeping up high, above 15,000’.

The plan is to go out to the toe of the glacier tomorrow to review climbing techniques, such as cramponing and self arrest with the ice axe. We’ll retire early tomorrow night in preparation for our alpine start and summit attempt of Cayambe, Ecuador’s third highest mountain at nearly 19,000’.

Thanks for following our adventures. We’ll touch base again tomorrow from up at the hut.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

An art vendor at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter A produce stall at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter Locals perusing stalls at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Summit!

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'

Hey, it is Billy here just checking in after a safe and successful summit bid.  We got up, kind of stalled a little bit because it was a cold morning.  We left around 10 pm, it took us about 12 1/2 hours round trip.  We were super psyched. So we’re back in camp, and like I said before everyone is safe and sound. Now we’re just hoping for good weather to beat feet for the airport.  That’s all I have for now.  We are going to eat dinner and get some sleep.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Climbers on the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Dave Hahn The view from the summit of Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection


RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls from High Camp on Denali after a successful summit bid.

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27

Congrats to All and especially my friend Jim Latorre! What an incredible achievement!

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Posted by: Matt McKittrick on 7/7/2015 at 4:36 am

Way to go Rhonda…you’re awesome! Can’t wait to hear about it - AFTER you thaw out:)
Sue

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Posted by: Sue Mamer on 7/6/2015 at 2:28 pm


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Recent Images From Expedition Dispatches

  • Mt. McKinley's 14K Camp. Photo: John Race
  • View of Mount Rainier from Paradise. Photo: NPS Webcam
  • An RMI team leaving Denali's 11K Camp, descending to Base Camp. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Climbing Nevados Urus in the Ishinca Valley, Peru. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Tocllaraju from Nevados Urus summit. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Mt. Foraker from Mt. McKinley's 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An art vendor at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • A produce stall at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Locals perusing stalls at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Climbers on the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The view from the summit of Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers on the top of Motorcyle Hill at 11,600 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers approaching the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Fuya Fuya with Cayambe in the distance. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending a 3rd class ridge on Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Cayambe as seen from the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The East and West Ridges of Forbidden Peak as seen from Sharkfin Tower in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: Kristina Weller
  • 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK with Kahiltna Dome in the distance. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI July 3rd Four Day Summit Climb team enroute to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • Sunrise on the Upper Mountain of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • An RMI team building walls at high camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Stormy conditions at 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climber ascending the Autobahn on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • An RMI Team at Base Camp in the Ishinca Valley, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos