Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 8,000'
Sunday, June 30, 2024 - 10:16 pm PT
It was cold at 14,000' this morning because we didn't wait for the sun to get around the mountain. But the cold was nowhere near what we'd experienced up high. We ate breakfast, packed and got on our way. Back to pulling sleds. We pulled them around Windy Corner, through the Polo Field, down Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills. Down at 11K, we dug up the cache of gear and made our switch to snowshoes. It was a treat to be the only team left on the lower mountain (there are perhaps five or six teams still above us). It was pretty easy going down the Kahiltna Glacier until we reached Ski Hill where the combination of mushy snow and crevasses made things less fun. Even so we made good time reaching 8,000'. We set up camp as clouds rolled in from above and below. Our hope is to have things freeze up in the night to make for safer and easier travel, but with cloud cover, that doesn't always happen. We'll see what we get. Basecamp is potentially just four hours away.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
PC: Dave Hahn
New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition June 11, 2024
RMI Guides Jess Wedel and Mike Bennett led their Four Day Climb June 27-30 to the summit of Mt. Rainier. The teams reported winds on the crater rim 15-20 mph and an overall nice day. The teams reached the summit around 6 am and are on their descent to Camp Muir. Once back at Camp the teams will pack up their gear and continue the remaining 4,500' down to Paradise. Their program will conclude this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Wow what a great trip! The guides are some of the coolest people on the planet! They were funny, extremely knowledgeable, and humble. every aspect of the trip was fun, but challenging in some way. Be physically and mentally ready. It’s a full few days with no real sleep to get to the top. Loved every minute. Thanks Jess, Dillon, Mitch!
Everyone, please remember to tip your guides.
Posted by: Karl Rummel on 7/1/2024 at 8:08 am
It was a great day and thank you Jess and Mitch for leading our team to the summit. Was a great feeling to summit after trying and failing due to weather back in 2008 for me. However, just FYI, we all thought the winds were more like 30 mph based on how cold it was at the peak. ;-)
Posted by: Eric Dirst on 7/1/2024 at 8:05 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Saturday, June 29, 2024 - 10:10 pm PT
Life is easier at 14,000 ft. It was still a little breezy and cold this morning as we packed up at 17K. It still looked like the wind was howling up above. But of course we had our eyes on a dignified retreat. And a careful one. There were quite a few tricky steps to manage on the descent of the West Buttress. It was a relief to have the fixed rope section completed without incident. We rolled into 14,000' Camp at 5PM and had an easy evening in the sunshine. Yes, we are still a long way up a mountain, but everything is more friendly down in the thicker air. We'll try for 8,000 ft for tomorrow night.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition June 11, 2024
Thinking of you Tony! you got this!!!
Karl and Diane
Posted by: Karl Ring on 7/1/2024 at 7:17 pm
so proud of you guys! proud of the wisdom of your guides, the skill and strength of the team, and wow what stories you will have to share!! much to celebrate when you return!! lynn
Posted by: barbara theiss on 6/30/2024 at 10:12 am
Posted by: Joe Hoch, Jackson Breen, Evan Redman, Walter Hailes, Avery Stolte, Celeste Wilson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four-Day teams led by RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Jackson Breen summited this morning in good weather. They reached the top at 6:00 am taking 6 1/2 hours due to many climbers on the route. The team spend time on the summit before starting their descent, they return to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations Team!
Wow! You did it OLIVIA!!!
Posted by: wendy sobol on 6/29/2024 at 6:43 pm
Congratulations to all! Great job Olivia!! Another check off your list.
Posted by: Grandma Seaver on 6/29/2024 at 2:03 pm
Posted by: Tatum Whatford, Will Ambler
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
The Mt. Baker Expedition Skills Seminar spent the week on the mountian training. The team had tough weather on the mountian. Yesterday they spent the day in the sunshine on Mt Erie to solidify rope skills and dove deeper into a variety of alpin skills. The team was unable to summit due to the weather but took advantage of the time and were eager to learn and develop new skills.
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 18,850'
The day started out calm, so we started out climbing. We left high camp at 8:30. The day was slightly warmer than the last few, but there was less sun, so it didn't really feel all that warm. We had most of our clothing on for the 2.5-hour journey to Denali Pass. It was a little breezier at the pass, so we didn't rest long there. We got into significant wind and clouds in the next hour pushing up the steep rolls to Zebra Rocks. Finally, we had to call it quits at around 18,850 ft. Storm conditions stayed with us all the way back to high camp. It was a slow descent because of that and some justifiably tired legs.
We were in camp by 6 PM and into the shelter of the tents shortly after. We gave it a good go but got turned by some tough conditions. That happens. We'll begin our descent tomorrow. Some tough and careful climbing is still to come.
Best,
RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Marjerison, Sam Hoffman, Nick Sinapius & Team
New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition June 11, 2024
Too bad the weather did not cooperate, Wallis. Great job, nevertheless!! Have a safe climb down.
Posted by: Subbu Aiyer on 7/1/2024 at 6:29 am
So sorry to hear the weather was not cooperative! Great job Jon and to everyone in pushing through for as long as you did in windy conditions, but better safe than sorry! Kudos to the knowledge and wisdom of the guides and team in prioritizing safety. Positive thoughts for a safe and easy descent!
Posted by: Sunita Bendale on 6/30/2024 at 9:01 pm
Posted by: Casey Grom, Tom Skoog, Bailey Servais
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Black Diamond Team led by RMI Guide Casey Grom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:45am this morning. The team climbed above the clouds and had light winds and clear skies. After about and hour on the summit enjoying the views, the team started their descent and are in route to Camp Muir!
Posted by: Leif Bergstrom, Charlie Harrison, Arianna Drechsler
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Leif Bergstrom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:45am this morning. The team climbed above the clouds and had light winds and clear skies. After about and hour on the summit enjoying the views, the team started their descent and are in route to Camp Muir!
Congratulations Team!
Nice job! from Paradise to heaven and back.
Posted by: John B on 6/29/2024 at 4:55 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
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It was a windy night at high camp, followed by a windy day. More importantly, it was still too windy up on Denali's South Peak for us to make an attempt. Low level clouds have come in, obscuring our views of many of the surrounding mountains. We still have hope for improved conditions tomorrow, but that will likely be our last shot at the top. Given all that, the team has stayed upbeat and excited for a chance to climb.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition June 11, 2024
I heard it was a rough day and had to turn back. Job well done to get that far Tony!! I opted for some Double Rye with a friend last night and will do the bourye when you’re down safely! Congrats on what I assume is your altitude record? In TKPhi and Stay safe - Mark
Posted by: Mark Miola on 6/29/2024 at 8:22 am
good luck Katie & team!! Rooting for you!
Posted by: devi mehrotra on 6/28/2024 at 11:01 pm
Posted by: Brent Okita, Josh McDowell, Calvin Jiricko, Roland Scott, Stella Johnson, Claire Pennell
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb June 24 - 27 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Josh McDowell. The team enjoyed clear skies above Camp Muir during their climb while the lower elevations were covered with low clouds and precipitation. The climbers reached the crater rim around 7 am today and enjoyed some time on top before starting their descent. The climbers have returned to Camp Muir where they will pack gear and continue another 4.5 miles back to Paradise later this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Amazing!!! Jealous!
Posted by: Renae Grady on 6/27/2024 at 3:17 pm
Amazing team!!!
Posted by: Katie Hernandez on 6/27/2024 at 2:44 pm
Bummed you guys didn’t summit.
Was of course hoping you would on July 1st.
I was fortunate enough to summit on July 1st 1994 with Craig John, Ford Huntington , and Jennifer (?) as our guides.
Guess there is always next year.
If any of you see Joe Horiskey tell him Hi for me !
Posted by: Don West on 7/1/2024 at 8:15 pm
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