RMI Expeditions Blog
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, David Price, Liam Weed, Mike King, Seth Burns, Axel Ryd
Categories:
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI's Four Day Climb teams for July 1 - 4 led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer & Mike King reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at 5:40 am. Pete reported a nice day with light winds, really nice climbing conditions and a great route. The climbs spent some time in the crater enjoying the views and getting all the photo ops. They began their descent from the crater rim around 7 am. Once back at Camp Muir they will repack and continue down to Paradise to conclude their climb.
We want to give a shout out to RMI Guides Henry Coppollilo and Leif Bergstrom who spent a long day on route work earlier this week and really worked hard to improve the route. Thank you!
Congratulations to today's climber
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Matt McEttrick
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Saturday, July 3, 2021 - 9:15 pm PT
There was still a big cloud cap on Denali this morning, but at 6AM the winds didn’t seem too bad. There were clouds in every other direction as well, but we were mostly looking up at the West Buttress as we ate breakfast and pondered a carry. It seemed worth a shot. We pulled the trigger and left camp just after 8 AM. It was colder this morning than it had been… not extremely cold, but colder than we’ve yet experienced on the trip. Our tracks -and anyone else’s- from yesterday were gone, so we had the added challenge of trail breaking in a few inches of new snow. Even so, we made steady progress upward. But the cloud cap made steady progress downward, so we were bound to come together. We were in murk and light but cold winds by the base of the fixed ropes. Which all made for a cold intro to climbing the steep, icy rope section. Thankfully, the winds were blowing from behind us and so we stepped into much needed calm at our destination, which was just perfectly in the lee and sheltered by the crest of the West Buttress. It was wonderful to hit our 16,200 ft target, but the clouds hid the grand views. We quickly cached supplies and geared up for a descent facing into the cool wind. A careful descent got us to 14,200 ft camp just as the sun came out there at 2:30 PM. The afternoon and evening were calm and easy with occasional snow showers. The storm is definitely easing, but of course they are predicting that another will follow. We’ll rest tomorrow in any case.
Happy Fourth of July, Hahn team!
Did you bring a few fireworks?
Marion & I hope your weather conditions cooperate.
Marion and Joe McEttrick
Posted by: Joseph P McEttrick on 7/4/2021 at 7:47 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Nikki Champion, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Saturday, July 3, 2021 - 1:04 pm PT
We are stationary once again, waiting for any sign in the weather forecast that would indicate a potential good-weather window to move up to high camp and get in place for a summit bid. Today is overcast above us with light wind in camp, but we can still hear the wind up high. It's hard to complain about R & R time, but we're certainly ready for some weather that's more conducive for climbing.
We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
How are you d ? We miss you ❤️
You kin,
The Arnolds
Posted by: Richard Arnold on 7/4/2021 at 6:32 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Matt McEttrick
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,200'
The storm that moved in so deliberately yesterday evening seemed to pause this morning. At 6AM it was calm at 14k although we could hear big winds up on the crest of the West Buttress. Cloud was all around us, but it wasn’t doing a lot. We ate a slow breakfast and watched the weather. Having no other appointments or engagements, we decided to walk uphill to attempt our carry of supplies. The goal would be 16,200 ft, the top of the fixed lines. We were underway by 9 AM, by which time it was snowing lightly. Since we had two hours of straightforward uphill trudging before the start of the more complicated climbing, we figured we would give the weather a chance to improve. It did not. We turned around at 15,300 ft with the winds seemingly on the increase up above and snow beginning to fall heavily. It only took thirty minutes to reach camp again.
Winds began to hammer our camp by early afternoon and so we built big walls of snow-bricks to protect tents. Thankfully, the fury was short lived and not all that furious. We got a break by late afternoon, which certainly made dinner a bit easier to enjoy in the cook tent. The storm is still with us at 9 PM, ripping the upper reaches of Denali, but sparing 14 Camp for the time being.
We’ll give our carry another try tomorrow should we get the chance.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
Hello Dave Hahn & Team
Great picture of the camp at 14000!
Is the hump in the background the summit?
Posted by: Joseph P McEttrick on 7/3/2021 at 3:19 pm
Posted by: Casey Grom, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb of Mt. Rainier reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 5:30 am this morning. RMI Guide Casey Grom reported a great route and a beautiful morning of climbing. The team is on the descent en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
Congrats RMI team. I’m coming Aug 20
Posted by: Erick on 7/3/2021 at 10:21 am
Awesome! Congratulations to the entire team!
Posted by: Mark and Cindy on 7/3/2021 at 9:34 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Nikki Champion, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday, July 2, 2021 - 1:16 pm PT
Just as forecasted, a storm has settled in on Denali. At 14K Camp it is snowing with some moderate gusts of wind and very little visibility. Up above us on the mountain we can hear the winds crashing over the West Buttress like waves in the ocean.
We're protected and safe, though, with a well-built camp. After a hash brown, egg, and cheese scramble for breakfast, we're just relaxing in our tents or in the cook tent, reading, napping, and sharing conversations, a thin piece of nylon the difference between comfort and suffering.
This storm is forecasted to last into tomorrow, and we're in no hurry to stick our noses in it. Hopefully we'll get some nicer weather in its wake.
Go go Aaron!! Keep on goiiiiiiiing. Love, Em
Posted by: Emilee on 7/2/2021 at 2:33 pm
Posted by: Mike King, Taylor Bickford, Luke Wilhelm, Erika Birkeland, Tatum Whatford, Daniel May
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Mt. Rainier Climb, led by RMI Guides Mike King and Taylor Bickford, were on the summit at 4:20 am! The team had good weather with winds at about 10 – 15 mph and blue skies. They are currently descending back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's summit teams!
Congrats to everyone - what an awesome adventure!!! So proud of you all!❤️
Posted by: Stephanie on 7/2/2021 at 2:39 pm
Congrats to everyone! Amazing accomplishment.
Posted by: Cara on 7/2/2021 at 8:05 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Matt McEttrick
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Thursday, July 1, 2021 - 10:06 pm PT
Today was a simple one. We got up at 6 AM, ate breakfast and put on our spikes for a short walk down to the cache at 13,500 ft. The team loved the views of Mts Foraker and Hunter. The Tordrillo Mountains were clearly visible to the South. Ravens hadn’t even attempted to break into our well-buried cache. We had it out and distributed for carrying in minutes. Then we walked slowly back uphill with full packs, reaching camp by 10:30 AM. Rest and rehydration was in order as we got out of the strong sun and into our tents. A storm was gradually forming, first with winds up high on Denali, then with a steadily lowering cloud cap. This didn’t prevent us from conducting a brief review of the climbing techniques we mean to employ on the fixed-rope section between 15,000 and 16,000 ft tomorrow when we carry high.
Best Regards,
Posted by: Mike Walter, Nikki Champion, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, July 1, 2021 - 3:07 pm PT
We enjoyed a long, restful night of sleep at 14,000' Camp, with (relatively) warm temperatures. The agenda for today includes drying out boots in the sun, charging batteries with solar panels, resting, reading, and eating.
It's sunny and warm here in camp, but there's a nasty lenticular cloud on the summit, indicating high winds aloft. The latest weather forecast is calling for a storm affecting the mountain an lasting into Saturday. We're all set to weather the weather. And our hope is to get a good, three day window in which to have a summit bid. We'll be in touch again tomorrow with the latest. Now back to reading...
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
Thursday, July 1, 2021 - 2:19 pm PT
Just a walk in the park,
A short nap began our long walk out. A 10pm wake up and a midnight start got us to basecamp an early hour. Heavy sleds and packs were no match for our motivation to shower away 22 days worth of smell. Walking the Kahiltna in the middle of the night (granted its always light out) is peaceful. A great time for reflection. Its been a fun, albeit hard, 22 days on Denali. We had it all, snow, wind, sunshine, all three at once. What we didn't have was any illness or injury and that's the important part. Showered, fed, and full of oxygen-rich air, we are all ready for our journey home. Its been a memorable expedition but now its time for family, friends, and recovery.
Well done team, well done,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Great Job Hannah and Dustin!! It was great following along with you.
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 7/2/2021 at 2:49 am
Congratulations, what a great accomplishment!
Posted by: Jeff Means on 7/4/2021 at 9:02 am
« Bravo à toute l’équipe », congratulations to all of you, from France !!!
Posted by: Philippe Deiss on 7/4/2021 at 7:49 am
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