Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Retrieve Cache at Windy Corner

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 26, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday June 25th 10:16 pm PT

Hola from a sunny day up here at 14k. We enjoyed a lazy morning with a good coffee session in the posh before getting down to the business of retrieving our cache down near Windy Corner. A couple of hours was all it took and we were back in camp up in the Genet Basin in time to greet Mike Haugen’s crew on their descent from high camp after their successful summit bid yesterday. Tomorrow’s plans call for our first complete rest day of the trip that will hopefully set us up for a strong performance as we venture onto the upper mountain in the coming days. The weather may get a bit funky but hopefully it’ll be nothing that will slow us down. More on our story as it develops…

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Cache at Windy Corner, Mount McKinley, with climbers in the background. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Smooth Sailing to Kahiltna Base

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 26, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,200'

Thursday June 25th 10:15 pm PT

Our exit from Talkeetna was nearly as smooth and easy as our arrival in the Alaska Range turned out to be.  We had our traditional Roadhouse breakfast and then headed for the hangar.  By 10:00 AM we were loading onto K2 Aviation’s ski planes and taking off for the mountains.  We had a couple of good views of Denali and Foraker, the giants of the range, despite a fair amount of cloud and forest fire smoke in the air. 
Basecamp at 7,200 feet on the Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier was nearly deserted when we came in… just the way we like it.  We set camp, reviewed glacier travel techniques and got used to fabulous views when the clouds lifted.  By early evening a few other guided teams flew in and we chatted with the leaders, since we’ll likely be seeing each other a bit in the weeks to come.  There was a lot to get done on this day- there always is at the start of a big climb.  But we got it done and the team is now resting.  We were early to bed and we’ll be early to rise tomorrow in the hopes of catching easier and safer conditions for travel in the cold part of the day.  From what we could see from the airplane, the first part of our climb will be made easier by excellent snow coverage on the glacier surface. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Views of the Cassin Ridge on Mt. McKinley as an RMI team flies into Kahiltna Base. Photo: Dave Hahn K2 lands at Kahiltna Base on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Katy Reid

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Ready to Fly

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 25, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Thursday June 25th 10:00 a.m. PT

RMI Guide Dave Hahn sent us a couple photos as they were embarking on their flight to Kahiltna Base. Once the team is situated on the glacier and moved into their first mountain camp, Dave will check in with us again.

Dave Hahn and team pose for a photo at the K2 Aviation Hangar. Photo: Dave Hahn The June 23rd McKinley Expedition ready to board the plane. Photo: Dave Hahn

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Kel Rossiter | June 25, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Elías de Andrés Martos and Kel Rossiter reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  As of 7 am both teams were at approximately 13,400’ on their descent.  Elias reported clear skies and sunshine with a slight breeze and a very pleasant day.  The groups will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing their descent to Paradise.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb Teams!

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team a Shaky Start in Alaska

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Wednesday June 24th 11:15 pm PT

This was a typically full and busy prep day for Denali in many ways… And a little atypical as well.  We had plenty to do, a big and delicious breakfast meeting at the Roadhouse, our informative orientation slideshow with the National Park Service at the Talkeetna Ranger Station and an afternoon of checking and sorting climbing equipment and supplies out at the K2 Aviation hangar.  It was during the gear sorting that the atypical event transpired.  We were working outside, enjoying the summer sunshine.  Airplanes were taxiing and revving their props, trains were going back and forth with blaring horns and mild rumbling… When real rumbling began.  An earthquake struck a little before 2:30 in the afternoon.  It was unmistakable, but also fairly mild where we were standing… even if it was surreal.  We heard reports that it was a magnitude 5.8 quake centered about sixty miles west of Talkeetna, which must mean that our climber-friends and co-workers probably felt it more than we did.  We sure hope that none were in delicate circumstances for the event and that all were ok.  Our team went back to packing and prepping for flying onto the Kahiltna Glacier tomorrow morning.  The afternoon finished with a weigh-in of food and fuel, clothing, tents, ropes, stoves, sleds, shovels, people and a small mountain of miscellaneous ballast for the climb.
We sat outside for dinner, talking over the details of tomorrow and the start of a big adventure, but also simply relaxing and enjoying a memorable summer day before we commit to snow and ice.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Talkeetna Ranger Station mountain stats. Photo: Dave Hahn Dave Hahn's team pre-trip meeting with the National Park Service. Photo: Dave Hahn Weighing and sorting gear at the K2 Aviation Hangar. Photo: Dave Hahn

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 14K Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Wulp, your intrepid team has made it smoothly and safely into Camp 4 at over 14K! Forecasts were calling for an end to our decent weather on Thursday or Friday so we decided to push up and forego a rest day at 11. The climbers have been motivated and moving strongly throughout the trip, which made the decision to move up a relatively easy one. We were greeted by RMI Guide Pepper Dee with a great looking posh and nice camp to move into.  Pepper also had plenty of cold water for us which really hit the spot after our first really hot day on the move. Not much else to report other than pretty marginal weather forecasts and a happy team sitting pretty at 14.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

An RMI team ascending from Denali's 11,000' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee | June 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'

Wednesday June 24th 11:45 pm PT

We woke up around seven this morning to one of the warmest mornings I have ever experienced at 17,000 feet camp. We got ready slowly and departed for the top just after nine. The weather was perfect for us pretty much the entire climb. There was a little bit of cold, a little bit of hot, but mostly perfect all day. The El Siete crew walked to the summit in style a little after five this afternoon and spent a good deal of time taking pictures from the top. We had a smooth descent and pulled into camp just after 9:00 p.m. Alaska time for a twelve-hour round trip. We are getting the boys fed and put to bed so we can get up early to start our way out to basecamp and eventually back to you!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

Audio transcription - Wednesday June 24th 6:30 pm PT
Hi, it’s Mike Haugen. I am standing with the RMI el Siete on the summit of Denali. Beautiful weather. We topped out about 5:15 in the evening and are miles above the clouds. We are saying our congratulations to the team and head on back to high camp and send the blog from there.  Hope all of our families are doing well. Thank you for your support.

Summit ridge of Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Seth Waterfall


RMI Guide Mike Haugen calls in from the Denali summit!

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Mt. McKinley: Dave Hahn & Team Arrive in Talkeetna

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

June 24, 2015 12:35 am PST

The final RMI Denali team of 2015 came together today.  Six climbers and three guides met up in Anchorage this afternoon, some having come in one or two days previously and some just arriving today after exceedingly long airline extravaganzas.  Luckily, the all-important mountain of baggage that will allow us to safely challenge the real mountain made it onto the Anchorage carousels intact.  We didn’t waste much time at all before boarding our Denali Overland shuttle for Talkeetna.  It was a warm and dry day, as has apparently been the pattern in these parts this season.  Haze obscured the views we might otherwise have enjoyed of the Alaska Range.  Our journey to Talkeetna was broken up by a stop at the big supermarkets of Wasilla to put finishing touches on group and personal food supplies for the trip.  We made good time up through the fresh forest fire scars of Willow, AK that have been making national news in recent weeks and rolled into Talkeetna around 8 PM.  It didn’t take long before we were settled into our comfortable hotel and venturing out together for a relaxing beverage while basking in the strong evening sunshine. 

Tomorrow we’ll get down to the business of climbing North America’s highest mountain.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Dave Hahn & Team en route to Talkeetna. Photo: Dave Hahn

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Mt. Rainier: June 24th Summit!

Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs, Tyler Jones, Walter Hailes | June 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs and Tyler Jones reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The Teams reported a beautiful day with light winds and great views.  The teams have started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir.

RMI Guide Walter Hailes and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier in the early morning via the Emmons Route.  The team returned to Camp Schurman and will spend the remainder of their time on perfecting their mountaineering skills.  They will return to Rainier Basecamp on Thursday afternoon.

Congratulations to Today’s teams!

26

Way to go Jim!!!  The team at NAU is so proud of you.  Congratulations!!!

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Posted by: Michelle Adams on 6/24/2015 at 8:37 am

Congrats Shannon!! So proud of you! You are AMAZING. Love you

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Posted by: Linda Walsh on 6/24/2015 at 8:36 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Move to 14,000’ Ready For Summit Attempt

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee | June 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'

June 23, 2015 9:51 pm PST

We had a successful move up to 17,000 foot camp on Mt. McKinley. The weather was perfect for traveling on the fixed lines and above. Climbing on the amazing ridge that crests the West Buttress of Denali is always one of my favorite parts of the climb because of the beautiful rock an the exposure. I think all of the El Siete boys had a good time weaving through the rocks and snow that provide the natural protection on the ridge. As of now, we are planning to try to summit tomorrow. The forecast looks good and the crew is ready. Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

Climbers on the fixed lines above 11 Camp on Mt. McKinley,Alaska.  Photo: Brent Okita

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Previous Page More Entries

Expedition Stats

Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - 13,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/17 - 5/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine
5/8 - 5/18/2015
The Munchkin - Summit / The Throne - Lost Marsupial - Summit / Big Arapiles - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/14 - 5/24/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/24 - 5/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/28 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/29 - 6/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/5 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/12 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/31 - 6/5/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/3 - 6/6/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/7/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/5 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/6 - 6/9/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/19 - 6/7/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/5 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/7 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/8 - 6/11/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/12/2015
Mt. Rainier - 14,410'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/10 - 6/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/14/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/12 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/15 - 6/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/14 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/16 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/17 - 6/20/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/21/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/26 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mt. McKinley Upper West Rib Expedition
5/28 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/20 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/22 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/20 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/2 - 6/21/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/23 - 6/26/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/22 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
6/22 - 6/27/2015
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/26 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,400'

Recent Images

  • Climbers on the ridge en route to Camp 5 at 17,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.
  • RMI Guides Elias & Robby arrive at the Lima Airport. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Huaraz City in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Moving to 11,000' Camp on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The RMI Dining tent at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • The RMI El Siete team on the summit of Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Mike Haugen
  • Climbers ascending the fixed lines on Mt. McKinley en route to High Camp.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Climbers pulling sleds up Mt. McKinleys Ski Hill to 9.500 ft Camp.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Cotopaxi as seen from the Jose Ribas Refugio. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Seminar team with Cotopaxi in the background. Photo: Mike Walter
  • An RMI climber ascending the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, WA. Photo: Eric Frank
  • Tents covered in snow at McKinley Base Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Pulling sleds up Ski Hill on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Jose Ribas Refugio on Cotopaxi, Ecuador. Photo: RMI Collection
  • A stormy day at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley, AK for an RMI Team. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Traversing off Disappointment Cleaver on Mount Rainier. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Ecuador Seminar enjoys a rainbow seen from Illiniza Norte, Ecuador, acclimating climb. Photo: Mike Walter
  • An RMI team traveling across the Polo Fields, Mount McKinley, back to 11K Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Cache at Windy Corner, Mount McKinley, with climbers in the background. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Views of the Cassin Ridge on Mt. McKinley as an RMI team flies into Kahiltna Base. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • K2 lands at Kahiltna Base on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Katy Reid
  • Dave Hahn and team pose for a photo at the K2 Aviation Hangar. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The June 23rd McKinley Expedition ready to board the plane. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Talkeetna Ranger Station mountain stats. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Dave Hahn's team pre-trip meeting with the National Park Service. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Weighing and sorting gear at the K2 Aviation Hangar. Photo: Dave Hahn