RMI Expeditions Blog
Quick note from RMI Guide Casey Grom on the Cayambe summit:
100% on top!
Once the team is back to camp, Casey will send photos and a dispatch.
Congratulations to the Team!
On The Map
Despite our being very much ready to break camp and head higher, the upper mountain wasn't ready for us. When the sun finally hit at 11 AM, it was coming through streamers of wind blown snow driven from the ridge crest that -coincidentally- was to be our goal for the day. We ate breakfast and eyeballed the clouds and winds, neither of which got better as we watched. The forecast had called for light winds and light cloud cover. We had to admit, that in every other location visible to us, that prediction seemed accurate... Except the one place we wanted to go. We watched as gust after gust drove snow straight down the length of the fixed ropes. In other parts of the world, we might have attempted to fight such a wind, but in this ultra cold environment, it wouldn't have been a fair fight. By mid-afternoon there was no letup and so a rest day was declared. Five teams camped around us did exactly the same thing. Two small teams already at high camp hunkered down and reported steady 25 knot winds with higher gusts. For being a bad-weather day, it was sunny and calm where we sat, slept, read, played cards, ate and drank. Tomorrow.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Following the blog daily. Stay safe and see you soon! Love, Judy
Posted by: Judy Johnson on 12/15/2014 at 10:36 am
Hello again everyone,
All is well here in Ecuador. We had a slight technical issue yesterday which delayed our ability to send a dispatch.
So let me bring everyone up to speed. Yesterday we checked out of our warm and comfortable hacienda and made our way to the famous Otavalo market. It's the largest market in Ecuador and one of the largest in all of South American. The team spent a few hours negotiating the endless maze of goods for sale and worked on our bartering skills- some did better than others. :)
After everyone satisfied their shopping desires we headed uphill towards Cayambe, our first major climbing objective. The road to Cayambe is long, rough, and an accomplishment in itself. We were amazed that our bus was able to make it so far on what is clearly a 4x4 road. There were several times I was sure the mud was going to win, but somehow Hector, our daring driver was able to make it through. We hiked the final hour to the hut at Cayambe to help with our acclimatizing and spent the remainder of the evening relaxing.
Today the team woke early with a big breakfast and plenty of coffee. We then hiked up to the start of the glacier which is about an hour away, and spent a few hours refreshing our skills for tomorrow's climb. While out on the glacier we were not only amazed at the beautifully clear day, but also incredibly lucky to see a condor soaring not far away! Once back at the hut we reviewed the plan for the upcoming climb and got everything packed up and ready to go. A special thanks to Leon for whipping up one heck of a nice meal for everyone.
The team is off to bed now as we are waking early for tomorrow's climb. Wish us luck!!!
And one more thing... Keep your cell phones handy tomorrow morning. One lucky trivia winner will be making a satellite call from the summit if all goes well.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Good luck tomorrow! Sending good vibes from Cali. Go Dale!!!
Love, Erin
Posted by: Erin on 12/14/2014 at 7:54 pm
So glad you all had good weather today! Hope it continues on for the summit!! Glad to see an update and that besides updating the blog there haven’t been any other issues! Keep on keeping on!
Posted by: Liz on 12/14/2014 at 7:32 pm
Today was an easy one for our Vinson climbing team. We'd planned a rest day to help with our acclimatization and so, after tearing out of bed at the crack of 11:15 AM, we had a long, slow breakfast of bacon, eggs, hash browns and hot drinks. We went for a short walk in the mid-afternoon to the base of the fixed ropes and climbed a couple of pitches to reacquaint ourselves with steep snow protocols and methods. Then it was back to Low Camp to rest up and sort gear. Weather wasn't perfect today -there were high clouds being blown from the summits of the high peaks, but it was nice and calm where we were. We'll see what we get tomorrow and perhaps we can move to High Camp.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
It was great to be in Vinson Base last night... Quiet and peaceful (once the airplanes quit bringing climbers in, that is, sometime after 2 AM). We got going this morning at the usual VBC civilized hour of 9 AM. There was plenty to do in getting sorted, getting breakfast and getting some meeting time in with the other climbing guides and the ALE staff. Eventually we got tents down, packs loaded, and our ropes tied for glacier travel. We were first out of camp at 1:43 PM. Conditions were excellent and we made great time, arriving at the 9,000 ft "Low" Camp at 6:30, having traveled 5.6 miles. Sunburn was of more concern to us than frostbite today. The views of Vinson's giant and jagged northern neighbors- Shinn, Epperly and Gardner, were stupendous. Our camp went up quick and easy. Dinner went down without any hiccups and we were in bed by 11 PM. All were warned that the brilliant sunshine would warm the tents only until 3 AM. Then, although the sun won't set, it will go behind our mountain for about eight hours and life will be cold in the shadows. We'll reemerge from the tents at 11 AM to see what sort of day we have.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Yay daddy! Stay safe and keep climbing! I’m completely done with my final exams and came home yesterday. Miss you so much!
Love,
Tilly
Posted by: Mattie Sullivan on 12/13/2014 at 11:17 am
Yay! I figured you were on your way as well. Thanks for the updates Dave! Give Gary a hug for me :-)
Posted by: Kate Prusack on 12/13/2014 at 7:11 am
Posted by: Casey Grom, Leon Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Hola from Ecuador!
Today the team left the busy city of Quito and headed north to the much smaller and far more rural town of Otavalo. We were hoping to do a acclimatization hike on a small mountain called Fuya Fuya, but due to a little rain, thunder and lightning, we opted for a little acclimatization while eating pizza! And based on what happened to all the pizza, it was a huge success.
It was an enjoyable drive along the Pan-American highway through the Ecuadorian countryside. We passed many farms magically perched on hillsides and what seemed to be endless rose plantations. We spent the remainder of the afternoon playing cards, reading, taking naps and a review of all the gear we'll need for our upcoming climb. We are currently relaxing in the comfort of La Casa Sol.
Everyone is doing great and looking forward to tomorrow's adventure.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew.
Go Team! Wishing all a safe and successful climb.
Go Doug- be safe and climb with grace…is that all you’ve got!:)
Love, Belladonna
Posted by: Donna on 12/14/2014 at 8:25 am
Hey team, I hope you had a wonderful day. Send us updates when you can. Go Dale!!
Love, Erin
Posted by: Erin C on 12/13/2014 at 11:00 pm
December 11, 2014 - 8:01 pm PT
A good chunk of this day was spent like the last three days... waiting and wondering when we'd get to fly. But two thirds of the way through dinner, everything changed. The weather at Vinson got good and we got up from the table and out to take down our tents.
We'd spent the morning enjoying a fat-tire bike ride around the 10 kilometer course. During afternoon, the wind got up at Union Glacier and we stayed inside the big dining tent, playing games, reading and talking. Most had given up hope for getting to Vinson on this day by the time we got the call. We loaded into the ski equipped Twin Otter and took off in a hurry. Then we enjoyed the magical scenery as we flew up the middle of the Ellsworth Mountains. Nothing but ice and rock -in a million different configurations- as far as the eye could see. The mountains got enormous as we approached Vinson and the pilot dove down toward the Branscomb Glacier to set us, ever so smoothly, at Vinson Basecamp. We hopped out into strong sunshine and calm air... Such a relief after the winds at Union today. Up went our tents and we crawled in after staring slack-jawed at the unreal and gigantic ice cliffs and rock escarpments around us.
Tomorrow, if all goes well, we just might go mountain climbing.
Best Regards
RMI Guides Dave Hahn
On The Map
Hi everybody!
Now you did the first step to the summit and the others will follow - I`m sure!!!
Thank you for your daily report, Dave!
I´m looking forward to hear more from this special place “on the bottom of the earth”!
Take good care of you, Hans - and all together!
Best wishes to you! Ute
Posted by: Ute Novak on 12/12/2014 at 12:13 pm
December 11, 2014 - 6:57 pm PT
The team here in Ecuador got their first taste of altitude today, on the hills that surround Quito. This morning we rode the teleferico to 13,000 feet and began our trek up Pichincha on the rutted trails that wind up to its rocky 15,000 ft summit. It was a day to pressure our bodies into absorbing the thin atmosphere and experience the weather patterns that commonly occur here. So the last half hour of our descent was a mixture of rain and hail and by 2:30 the team was drying off in the hotel and relaxing before dinner. This will be our last evening in Quito and our trip commences north towards Cayambe.
RMI Guides Leon Davis & Casey Grom and Team
On The Map
Hope all is well. Looking forward to seeing some summit photos. Stay safe gang, Love you Syd.
Looks like Christmas back home.
Daddy
Posted by: Roger Osmun on 12/14/2014 at 9:00 am
Looks like you’re all doing great! Good luck on the volcanoes. Go Dale!!!
Posted by: Erin C on 12/12/2014 at 5:46 pm
Hello-
Everyone has safely arrived here in Ecuador and are doing well after the long flights. We started our day with a team meeting where we did a round of introductions and discuss our upcoming program. Shortly after our meeting we headed out to explore this beautiful old city with our tour guide Edison. He took us to visit the basilica and the old part of town dating back to the 1600's. We made a stop atop a hill that overlooks the city called La Panacea, and took in the view of this long and narrow city of over 2 million.
We then made our way north to visit the equator which gives Ecuador it's name. There's a small museum there with a few interactive displays that amused us. But most importantly we stood on the equator itself!
After our brief visit we made our way back to our hotel in downtown Quito where we took a break before heading to dinner. The team opted for a place called the Magic Bean that's known for its tasty food and fresh juices.
Everyone is doing well and looking forward to getting a little exercise tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Great week at the beach. Hope you are staying warm, Courtney! We are thinking of you always. Love, mom
Posted by: Susan Allen on 12/14/2014 at 6:51 am
Diego (from Ecuador) says you have to try lechon or hornado if you get a chance!
Posted by: Liz Dean on 12/12/2014 at 12:28 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
The sun refused to shine today. At least in the Union Glacier region of Antarctica. Not so bright over at Vinson either, according to reports. No flying today as a system of moisture is moving through -at least we hope it is moving through. For all of that, it wasn't a bad day here, just cloud, murk and light snow. There wasn't any of the wind which usually is the main ingredient for making a miserable day in these parts. We got out this morning to review avalanche procedures and then went for a walk and talk on the 10 kilometer track which is groomed and marked out with flags on the immense flat surface of the glacier. Afternoon was spent on reading, mingling, chocolate and chess.
As usual, we are ready to fly out to Vinson for our climb. First thing tomorrow morning would be just fine, but the forecast is still calling for mank.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
That posted westher news for Mount Vinson is encouraging. Praying it holds. Patience.
Posted by: Bob Sullivan Sr on 12/11/2014 at 11:02 pm
I watched the weather report for Mount Vinson and there is sunshine for the next days and no wind or storm!!!
I wish you all good luck and specially all the best for Hans!
Ute
Posted by: Ute Novak on 12/11/2014 at 9:20 am
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Great work Gang! What a view. Glad to hear everyone made it up and back. Now rest and get ready for the next one.
Congratulations Squid. I knew you could do it. I’m with you in spirit!
Daddy
Posted by: Roger Osmun on 12/15/2014 at 6:20 pm
Love the pictures—hanging out on some clouds! Enjoy the next one and be safe! Go Dale!! Erin
Posted by: Erin on 12/15/2014 at 11:36 am
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