Entries By billy nugent

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 14K Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Wulp, your intrepid team has made it smoothly and safely into Camp 4 at over 14K! Forecasts were calling for an end to our decent weather on Thursday or Friday so we decided to push up and forego a rest day at 11. The climbers have been motivated and moving strongly throughout the trip, which made the decision to move up a relatively easy one. We were greeted by RMI Guide Pepper Dee with a great looking posh and nice camp to move into.  Pepper also had plenty of cold water for us which really hit the spot after our first really hot day on the move. Not much else to report other than pretty marginal weather forecasts and a happy team sitting pretty at 14.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

An RMI team ascending from Denali's 11,000' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Cache Gear Higher on the Mountain

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Tuesday June 23rd 6:48 pm PT

Greetings from another partly cloudy day here on Denali. Great weather and calm winds enabled us to push a cache up the mountain today around Windy Corner just shy of Camp 4. We were afforded glimpses of blue skies and the upper mountain through the clouds while we were preparing and covering up our supplies. We actually stumbled upon a perfectly sized cache hole abandoned by another party so little digging was necessary. Between that and the weather we’ve been making out pretty easy thus far. No matter, our team is gelling well and ready for the challenges that lie ahead.

Sitting pretty back at 11…

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Resting at 11,200’ Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

June 22, 2015 - 6:34 pm PT

Greetings from day two up here at 11 Camp where our team is resting after a pretty mellow back-carry down to 9,600’. We retrieved the cache of food and fuel we left behind yesterday on our move up and have been enjoying partly cloudy skies and pretty civilized temperatures thus far. The team has been taking advantage of the good weather by staying on the move. Tomorrow we’re hoping to put a cache in up around Windy Corner at around 13,900’ that will hopefully set us up well for a move up to Camp 4 at just over 14,000’ in the next few days. Everyone is moving well and excited to keep on pushing up the mountain bit by bit. Not much else to report other than that the mountain feels quite empty. Not that we’re lonely or anything, just enjoying some relatively uncommon solitude up here. All’s well thus far!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley with Kahitlna Dome peaking through the clouds.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Celebrate Father’s Day at 11,200’

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

June 21, 2015 10:40pm PST

Greetings on this fine Father’s Day from Camp 3 at just over 11k’! Our team enjoyed a leisurely morning and a relatively quick and painless move up today with light loads and nice temps. After building camp we took advantage of the free afternoon to lounge around, snack, nap, play scrabble, dig a hole to bury a box, reposition some door knobs, moisten our fence wood, and general beveraging. Our gang is in great spirits and enjoyed our first evening hangout in the posh (cook tent) of the trip. Hoping for a continuation of the decent weather for tomorrow’s back-carry down to 9,600’ where we left our cache of supplies. We’re also hoping that all of our fathers had a great Father’s Day. Know that we’re thinking about you up here!

Wulp, that’s all for now.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team

 

11,200' Camp on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 9,600’

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 21, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'

June 20, 2015 9:26 pm PT

Woke up this morning… RMI GuideJake Beren was crouched in my vestibule! He happened to stop by our camp super early on his way to the airstrip to hand off some highly coveted coffee for our climbers. Thanks Jake! Soon thereafter we got up and fired the stoves ourselves. After breaking camp, the weather gods obliged us with comfortable walking temps and some cloud cover that gave us respite from the sun. Our team made short work of our move to Camp 2 at 9,600 feet, dispatching it in 3.5 stretches of walking. We enjoyed a lazy afternoon in the sun, keeping cool with sleeping bags draped over top of the tents, rehydrating and snacking until dinner. We are excited to leave the massive loads behind in a cache here which we will hopefully back-carry up to 11,000’ in a couple days.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

RMI Climbers pulling sled up Ski Hill en route to Camp 2 on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Chris Villar

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Mt. McKinley:  Nugent & Team Carry Heavy Loads in Good Stride

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 20, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'

Saturday June 20th 8:45 a.m. PT

First day moving on Mount McKinley was a tremendous success. As a guide, I was impressed with our crew’s ability to move smoothly and efficiently despite the very heavy loads and the cumbersome nature of the sled rigging and climbing rope. Usually it’s a couple of days before a team will hit its stride like we did today. We enjoyed clear skies and perfect temperatures. For a moment we had considered moving onto the night schedule but a cool down glacier breeze and excellent snow coverage made for safe and comfortable travel during the day. We are all in great spirits, bonding as a team and enjoying our relatively new environs.

More from our expedition as it develops.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Heartbreak Hill, Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Adam Knoff

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Begin Their Mountain Days

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 18, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Thursday June 18th 9:30 pm PT

Hi everybody! Billy here checking in from Kahiltna Basecamp on a gloriously sunny day. We enjoyed a big breakfast this morning in Talkeetna’s Roadhouse and scooted over to the airport to confirm the fact that we’d indeed be flying first thing. A flurry of packing and final weigh-ins preceded the loading of the planes, a group photo, and a smooth departure. The great folks at K2 were really helpful and quickly delivered our team to Basecamp in two simultaneous otter flights. Next thing we knew we were on the ice and having come from summer it felt a bit abrupt but the sun was strong and kept us warm as we got accustomed to our new surroundings. We spent much of the day building our camp, organizing gear and supplies, and rigging sleds for tomorrow’s departure up the hill. The team is psyched for a big adventure and ready to work hard.

All for now!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Flying into Kahiltna Base Camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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Mt. McKinley:  Nugent & Team Ready to Fly!

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 18, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Thursday June 18th 10:20 a.m.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent just called from Talkeetna.  K2 Aviation is ready to fly the team onto Mount McKinley!  Once they are settled into their first camp, Billy will check in with us from the glacier.

The McKinley June 16th team pose for a photo before their flight. Photo: Billy Nugent

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And so it begins…go team!

Doug, remember:
“It does not do to leave a live dragon out of your calculations, if you live near him.” J.R.R. Tolkien

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Posted by: Belladonna on 6/18/2015 at 10:01 am


Mt. Rainier: June 14th Summit!

Posted by: Billy Nugent | June 14, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Billy Nugent and team reached the Mount Rainier summit before 7:00 a.m.  The weather was already quite warm and calm winds.  After spending some time on top, including the last stretch to Columbia Crest, the team began their descent at 8:25 a.m.

Traverse to the Emmons Shoulder on Mount Rainier, Washington. Photo: RMI Collection
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Aconcagua: Nugent Wraps Up the Expedition in Mendoza

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Katrina Bloemsma, Billy Haas | January 31, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua

Hi all. Billy here with the last installment from our riveting series of blog posts documenting one of this year’s RMI Aconcagua expeditions. We officially wrapped up our program last evening with an amazing dinner at Francesco Barbera complete with all of the pageantry you’d expect from a fine dining experience in Argentina: cocktails, wine, delicious handmade pastas, dessert, coffee. We deserved a little luxury after so much hard work in such a harsh environment and indeed there was much rejoicing.  I’d like to take this opportunity to thank all the members of the team for their patience, dedication, and hard work all along the way and to thank Katrina and Billy Haas for being exceptional guides and teammates the whole trip too. 

I’ve had tons of fun and can’t wait to come back next year…

Til then.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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