Entries By dominic cifelli

That’s a wrap. We are back at the hotel in Puerto Natales, having completed the full O Circuit with our cups full both figuratively and literally. What an incredible adventure, made even better by a truly great group of people who now feel like old friends.

We woke up this morning to the same strong winds that ushered us into the park at the start of the trip. This time, though, they felt easy to shrug off. A hot shower and a real bed were waiting, which has a way of putting everything in perspective. As we made our way back, we couldn’t help but gawk at the towering mountains and hanging glaciers welcoming us into this beautiful corner of Patagonia, all while reflecting on just how far we had traveled to arrive right back where we began.

The weather on this trip was the best I’ve ever had out here, and that good fortune belonged entirely to this team. From start to finish, it felt like everything lined up just right. Now the only luck we need is choosing which wine to taste next.

This is the Torres trek signing off. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Rain? What the heck is this? Yesterday was supposed to be our rainy day, yet we woke to a beautiful sunrise followed by, somehow, more rain. Begrudgingly, we pulled on rain jackets, pack covers, and zipped every zipper we had. Right on cue, the rain stopped and the sun came out. Of course it did.

The hike from Paine Grande is incredible. As the trail unfolds, you start catching glimpses into the French Valley, where massive cliffs rise straight out of the landscape and hanging glaciers loom quietly above. Every so often, the view pulls your attention the other way, toward the unreal light blue water of the lake below. It feels almost distracting in the best possible way, a constant reminder of just how special this place is and how fortunate we have been with the weather.

We continued up the French Valley to the first lookout, lingering as icefalls calved off the glaciers with deep, echoing crashes. Condors drifted overhead, six of them by our count, likely drawn in by our collective aroma more than the scenery. It is hard to imagine a better place to sit, eat a sandwich, and take it all in.

From there, we descended and followed the shoreline of Lago Nordenskjöld, an extremely Chilean sounding lake, until reaching our final camp of the journey at Cuernos. A lakeside refugio with unforgettable views and even better company.

This trip has officially been the best weather I have ever had. We are lucky, no doubt about it, and tomorrow we are looking forward to real beds in Puerto Natales.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

What was a big day yesterday turned into a restful night. The wind returned and the rained showed up, but we didn't mind. We were in our tents on the right side of John Gardner Pass. 

We began the day by heading down to the lake for a catamaran across the lake to the toe of the glacier. We donned helmets and crampons and were able to experience the views of yesterday first hand. Water bottles were filled by the flowing streams of fresh glacial water and we were able to see carved arches as holes in the ice. Amazing. 

That just meant a late day on the trail, but it's an easier day today with one big uphill and one big downhill. With the rain at our backs we were extra motivated to get to the warm Refugio for some wine and banter. Paine Grande, our Refugio tonight, is the biggest on the circuit and certainly stunning. Time to rest up for our day tomorrow. 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

Today was the big one. Not only did we transition from the O portion to the W portion of the trek, it was also the biggest day of the entire trip. Up and over John Gardner Pass. A day that typically takes teams 10 to 12 hours, and we hit it right in the bullseye at 11 hours total.

Today was on our side. What can often be a gusty, cold, and wet test of grit turned into a warm, calm, and spectacular one. Easily some of the best weather I have ever had over the pass.

Afterward, we spent much of the day traversing alongside the glacier. The trail winds and weaves through the trees, offering glimpses of the ice every so often. You almost forget it’s there until you crest a hill and are reminded exactly where you are.

Along the way, we crossed three suspension bridges, each one feeling a little easier as our confidence grew and the movement beneath our feet became more familiar. By the time we reached Refugio Grey, the day had finally caught up to us. Hot showers, dry clothes, and the quiet relief that comes after a long push were more than enough. With that, we settled in and hoped the rain we’re expecting decides to hold off until later.

Go Seahawks, and I hope Drake Maye keeps getting sacked.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Today was a shorter day. We woke to the sun painting the sky pink and the wind once again turning our hair into something resembling Gene Wilder on a bad day. The views made up for it, though, and the same wind did us a favor by keeping the mosquitoes away everywhere except inside our tents. These damn things know where we sleep. 

Before hitting the trail we headed down to the beach to get another look at the glacier we had been gawking at the day before. A few splash zone experiences from the waves and a few group pics later, we were on our way. A steady climb brought us to a vantage point with two competing views: the Dickson Glacier behind us and the valley ahead that leads to tomorrow’s crux, John Garner Pass.

Tomorrow we will be up dark and early for our final day before transitioning from the O portion to the W portion of the trek. For now, we eat some cake and drink some wine to celebrate yet another birthday!! Happy Birthday, Catherine!! Wish us luck.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

PC: Dominic Cifelli

After a windy but restful night, we woke to grand views and the realization that we were truly doing the thing. We were on the trip we had imagined for so long. A delicious breakfast and a strong cup of coffee later, we were ready to hit the trail.

Today began with another traverse along the Paine River, winding through the trees while doing our best to avoid the ever-present branches aimed directly at our eyes, courtesy of that bastard walking just ahead. Eventually, an uphill stretch appeared to wake up the lungs and legs. We welcomed it, even if no one was quite ready to admit that out loud. That’s part of why we do this. Yes, the views are incredible, but earning them through effort makes them that much sweeter.

That climb marks one of the best moments of the day. Somewhere along the way, we cross an invisible threshold, leaving behind the savannah-like terrain and stepping into the Patagonia we all pictured. Sharp peaks rise above us, glaciers cascade down their flanks, and lakes glow with that unmistakable milky blue. The scene is made even better by the outstanding weather we’ve been lucky enough to enjoy so far.

Tonight, we rest at Dickson, my personal favorite camp of the trip. It sits beside a glacial lake fed by the meltwater of the Dickson Glacier. With a bit of luck tomorrow morning, everyone will get to see the glacier in its full grandeur as we walk along the lakeshore after breakfast. It should be quite the treat.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

After our big day yesterday, it was time for another alpine start. In the wee hours of 10am we began our trek on the O Circuit. The first section of our loop around the Towers. Today is a mellow day, especially compared to the hike to the base of towers. Taking half the time and climbing a fraction of the elevation. Today could be called an active rest day. A term that anyone who has climbed with me in the past would poke fun at me for suggesting. 

We weave and wind our way through the foothills of the mountains, mostly hiking through the low desert like terrain that certain parts of Patagonia offer. While enjoying the sweeping views that a lack of tall trees lends us a beautiful blue river, the Paine River, carves the landscape and we follow it all the way to Seron Camp. An open field with big views and a cozy hut where we will eat dinner. Tomorrow is a bigger day, but one that ends in my favorite camp of the whole trek, Lago Dickson. Wish us luck and keep hoping for clear skies!! 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Today was the day, the official start of the trek. After a quaint and much-needed rest day spent packing, recouping, and doing our best to actually rest, we were ready to get rolling. We did just that, bright and early at 5:30 a.m., scarfing down breakfast and hitting the road before the sun had fully risen. 

Day one does not ease you in. Instead, it opens with one of the hardest efforts of the entire trek: the park’s namesake, Las Torres. Three striking granite spires rise abruptly from the landscape, as if carefully carved by a patient but dramatic hand. They are awe-inspiring to behold, but getting to them is not for the faint of heart. The hike takes roughly five hours on the way up, followed by a long and careful four-hour descent down a narrow, well-traveled trail. It is a big day by any measure, and the team met it with equal parts grit, good humor, and quiet determination.

Tomorrow we officially begin the O Circuit and make our way to our first camp. For now, we rest, refuel, and celebrate a job well done, along with a very Happy Birthday to our teammate Kathy. ��

Rmi Guide Dominic Cifelli 

Monday, February 2, 2026 - 7:00 pm PT

We’re off to the races. Today marks the start of our trip, and while we are not trekking just yet, we managed to pack in plenty of sightseeing.

The morning began bright and early, traveling along the Strait of Magellan to Isla Magdalena, a small island about an hour and a half away by boat, to spend time among the penguins. What a place. Penguins and a wide assortment of seabirds stretch as far as the eye can see. Honks, chirps, and the whistling wind fill the air as we walk among them, pause for the habitual jaywalkers to cross, and then continue on. The penguins seem completely unfazed by our presence, waddling past with total confidence and a complete lack of athleticism, going about their routines as if we are just another feature of the landscape. An incredible experience and a perfect way to begin the journey.

We have now picked up the last of our teammates, delayed by the infamous snowy weather the Carolinas are known for, and settled into Puerto Natales, our launch pad for the trek. Gear checks, souvenir shopping, and a much needed rest await us tomorrow. We are excited to be here in this fjord side town and ready to begin the trek ahead.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

Ama Dablam doesn’t need an introduction — it’s the mountain that makes everyone stop mid-trek, pull out their phone, and say “what mountain is that?” It looks impossible, like a granite shark fin dropped into the Khumbu. And we got to climb it. After a few weeks of hiking, acclimatizing, and a lot of time perfecting our tea-to-oxygen ratio, our team made a summit push. We climbed to Camp 1 at 19,000 ft followed by Camp 3, then up to the summit. We skipped the infamous, and smelly, Camp 2 to avoid the cramped "sleeping" and opted to climb the Grey Tower in the daylight with No Crowds!! 

We left Camp 3 in the wee hours of the morning due to the wind whipping across the seemingly near vertical wall facing you. We needed the sun to start making the air warmer, though the face doesn't get sun for quite some time in the mornings.  The fixed lines started right out of camp, and we got into a rhythm quickly — one step, one jumar, a deep breath, repeat. The climbing from Camp 3 is the kind of terrain that keeps you smiling even while your legs burn. It’s steep, exposed, and wildly scenic — you look down and realize how much of the world is way below you. A few hours later, we were standing on the summit — some wind, blue skies, and the type of view that doesn’t feel real until you’re back at basecamp scrolling through your photos thinking, “oh yeah, that actually happened.”

We had opted to head all the way back down to basecamp after our climb, which made for a long day, but a worthwhile endeavor, nonetheless. A hot meal, a mattress, a warm dome, all after summitting one of the most iconic peaks on earth. We got back in the dark, but damn was it worth it. 

Ama Dablam always lives up to the hype, a mix of gritty weather, unreal scenery, and the kind of that technical climbing that makes you grateful for strong ropes and stronger people.

Huge thanks to our Sherpa team, the staff at basecamp, and everyone back home following along. 

Until next time,

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli