Entries By dustin wittmier

After a relaxing morning and filling  breakfast at the Refugio, we packed our bags, bid farewell to our new four legged friends,  loaded ourselves in the bus, and moved one step closer to our first objective: Cayambe.  The day was a scheduled rest day, so naturally we did what all climbers do, we went shopping! We stopped at the outdoor market in Otavalo and shopped for gifts while soaking up some local culture. 

Eventually we made our way to the lower climbers hut.  What a pleasant surprise it turned out to be!  Many of us had mentally steeled ourselves for something more rustic… however we were treated to comfy beds with pillows, WiFi, and a warm stove!  “Glampineering” feels like an accurate description.  After spending a quiet afternoon relaxing and a delicious homemade dinner, we found ourselves huddled around our phones anxiously watching Alex Honnold scale Taipei 101.  Spoiler: he makes it to the top. 

After breakfast Sunday morning, we donned our gear and practiced our skills in preparation for Cayambe.  Once we were all feeling more confident, we packed our bags, climbed into trucks, and headed to the upper climbers hut.   While not as luxurious as the lower one, it again exceeded our expectations.  

 Now, we relax and prepare to begin our climb at midnight tonight, a shared sense of anxious excitement resonates through the team.  Each person is here for their own reasons, but collectively we are focused on one goal: Cayambe.

RMI Climber Erica Kim

This morning brought more pleasant weather in the form of overcast skies as opposed to yesterday’s endless, torrential downpour. We shoved out of Quito a bit ahead of schedule and were able to complete the four-hour loop hike of Laguna Cuicocha without incident.

Along the way people continued to connect with each other and share knowledge and experiences. On this trip we’ve learned a good deal from each other discussing a variety of topics: geology, biology, medicine, piloting an aircraft and how to keep your worried passengers at ease, as well as countless other topics. A lot can also be learned about a person through their fast-food preferences.

Even as we turn our sights towards Cayambe, we have done a great job of focusing on the task at hand (acclimatization) and taking in some lovely cultural experiences.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team

We just got as wet as I can imagine a person can possibly be. It may be dryer standing in the shower. 

Skeptical of the day's forecast (as always in Ecuador), but also based on the pattern that was observed prior to our arrival, we headed into the cloud and rain on Rucu Pichincha. It was one of those hard shells all day kind of days. Actually, the rain let up for one moment, we took the hard shells off and it immediately began raining profusely and never let up. The weather was in fact so wet that the gondola never reopened for our ride down and we took a steep, slippery trail down an extra 2700'. That was honestly pretty neat with water cascading down the trail and by that point, we couldn't possibly have gotten any wetter, so it was nicer to be warm and wet than cold and wet (waiting for the gondola to reopen).

The team was patient, flexible and overall got a decently nice hike in. In a region that doesn't have centralized heating in buildings due to the stable, comfortable weather, our hanging backpacks, jackets and hiking clothes will surely still be somewhat wet in the morning when we depart the hotel and head for our next acclimatization hike. Oh well, everyone is taking it in stride and at a minimum, today was memorable.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team

A day wandering among the colonial walls of Puebla leaves us relaxed and ready. A short drive and we're in Tlachichuca. After what feels like a much longer drive, we're at Piedra Grande. The road into the mountains is scarcely maintained and yet constantly ridden. Reminiscent of Ixtaccíhuatl's trails, there are a great many random intersections, deep ruts, protruding rocks, and washouts. The locals clearly hold scant regard for instructive signage, and thankfully, our driver needs none. We have one of our favorite meals of the trip at camp at 14000' -- more meat, cheese, veggies, and tortillas. And then it's time for bed.

By contrast, the 1 AM start feels reasonable. Still, the no-longer sleepers lament their rude departure from the cool and languid maw of REM sleep as they force down coffee and tea, oatmeal and cheerios. Dustin shares a vision of the world come to a white end. The would-be dreamers ascend through darkness, treading an old aqueduct, just a bit too steep to be an enjoyable trail, past random spray paint memorials, curiously abiding, and finally to the mouth of the Labyrinth. Weaving through this violent mess of a glacier's last destructive efforts, we finally make our way up and out to the current moraine, sandy and desolate. The Glacier lies above. Eerily still, devoid of the chaotic structures we associate with living glaciers, this mass of ice sits like a ghost on the mountain: a commemoration of a period of cooler Earth and accumulation of snow. 

Hunched and hooded like dark penitents the climbers huff and struggle to raise each onerous step. Slowly the sun lights the land but shares no perceivable warmth. Our route takes us up the north side of the peak and we poor solar supplicants are left shivering in the gray penumbra. After a few false summits we reach the highest point of Pico de Orizaba, along the deep crater's rim. A few steps down the steep, dusty bank, the air is curiously still, and we settle in to glean what we can from the thin atmosphere and supplement with snacks and water from our packs. 

A fine dinner and a better breakfast are gratefully consumed by our weary team back in the ex-soap factory of Servimont. Now we're headed home. 

RMI Guide Will Ambler and team

A dozen bright eyed cyclops laboring through the labyrinthine network of undesigned trails, clinging to each breath knowing the next will have less to offer. A cough escapes. For some of us this is the highest we've been, for all, the highest in recent memory. More to go.
Many hours later our team reached the summit of Iztaccíhuatl under a warm sun and brilliant blue sky. No small feat. And neither was the return. Though the views of the day extended far beyond the dusty trail of the night. Deep glacial valleys whose soft rock has been reworked by more recent year's liquids- delicate degradation of cyclopean castle walls. A gently erupting neighboring volcano, dispensing its vapors toward the valleys below.

Now as we look back up through the haze, the bittersweet, almost somber, feeling of a difficult journey tholed holds the occupants of our van; pensive and grateful.

RMI Guide Will Ambler

"Hard weather says the old man. Wrap me in the weathers of the earth, I will be hard and hard. My face will turn rain like the stones." Cormac McCarthy 

In our efforts of acclimatization our team enjoyed frosty wet winds, an in-depth tour of the grand interiors of a cloud. Our climbers bedazzled in rime; hooded migrants iced for a birthday. Happy birthday Nate! The summit of Volcan Malinche reached and no grand views but the middle floors of our gaseous estate. Soggy and satisfied we descended through scree, sand, and mud. Lungs and legs the better for it. Welcomed by the quadrupedal locals back to our interim homes at La Malintzi, we find the sub cloud world refreshing and rewarding. Another feast at 10,000 feet. Another cozy night in beds and cabins. Onward now to Iztaccíhuatl. Vamos viajeros. 

RMI Guide Will Ambler

The Mexico Volcanoes team led by RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Will Ambler arrived in Mexico City on Saturday. The team headed out of the city the following morning to La Malintzi resort, located at 10,000ft. They enjoyed a relaxing afternoon and began their acclimatization process.  Today the team stretched their legs and lungs on a hike to the summit of La Malinche, 14,636', it was cloudy and a bit cold.  They will return to the cabanas at the base of the mountain for a second night.  Tomorrow they will make their way to the base of Ixtaccihuatl.

The Four Day Climb August 17 - 20 led by RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Mike Bennett reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The teams delayed their departure from Camp Muir a bit due to the colder tempertures, with a 2 am departure, they reached the summit around 8 am.  They enjoyed some time on the summit before turning around and retracing their steps.  Once back at Camp Muir the team will repack and continue their descent to Paradise.

Nice work team!

RMI’s Four Day Climb, Aug 11-14 successfully reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today.

They reported 100% of the team was on top enjoying the calm weather and beautiful views this morning.

They are currently descending and will take a short but much needed break at Camp Muir before heading down to Paradise later this afternoon.

Congratulations to all of them!

The Four Day Climb August 7 - 10 led by RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier & Tatumn Whatford reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 6:30 am today.  Tatum reported that it was a little windy and a little cold but it was turning into a beautiful morning on the mountain. The teams spent about an hour in the summit crater before starting their descent.  Once back at Camp Muir they will take a quick break and repack their gear before contining the final 4.5 miles to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's teams!

PC: Tatum Whatford