Entries By garrett stevens

Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Training in Talkeetna

Posted by: Leon Davis, Garrett Stevens, Bridget Belliveau | May 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Hello from Talkeetna, Alaska! The RMI Alaska Mountaineering Seminar is underway here, and so far it’s nothing but blue skies, sunshine, smiles and excitement. The team all arrived yesterday in Anchorage, and despite one delayed flight we were all able to rendezvous with our shuttle and make tracks north.  A short shopping stop in Wasilla let us get all the final little treats that we’ll want to eat on the glacier for the next week or so, and then we finished the drive to this quaint little town at the end of the road.

After a good night’s rest, the team met this morning for breakfast at the fabled Roadhouse, followed by a stop at the ranger station to complete all our paperwork. We headed over to the hangar to finalize our packing and preparation, and then it was off to the races with training. Tent craft and now rope work, with the team learning a lot of new skills that we’ll use over the course of our program.

We’re scheduled to fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier this afternoon, so once we get the final weights of all our gear, we’ll suit up and head into a very different world! We’ll trade the trees and grass for snow and ice, but that’s what we’ve all come to do.

Keep it tuned in for more updates, and thanks for reading!

RMI Guides Leon Davis, Garrett Stevens, Bridget Belliveau, and the expedition team

The Alaska Seminar team learn some knot-tying skills in Talkeetna. Photo: Garrett Stevens

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Mt. Rainier: Summit Climbs on Top!

Posted by: Casey Grom, Garrett Stevens | August 29, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Garrett Stevens and Casey Grom led their teams of Four Day Summit Climbers to the summit of Mt. Rainier today.  Garrett reported a thin cloud cap starting to form but a pretty nice day overall.  Winds were very low on the lower portions of the mountain but had increased near the summit.  The teams will spend a bit of time in the crater and then descend back to Camp Muir.  After a short break the teams will continue down to Paradise and conclude their program with a short celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb teams!


Seriously impressed! Well done!

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Posted by: Sean M on 8/30/2014 at 6:14 am

Hammer, praying you will do your climb as high as you can go and come back safe and sound to your family.  Hope your’re having a great experience!  Mum-Z

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Posted by: Irene on 8/29/2014 at 11:03 am

Mt. Rainier: Summit Climbs Teams on Top!

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Garrett Stevens | August 24, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Garrett Stevens led their Four Day Summit Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The teams reached the crater rim around 7 am and were able to spend some time on the summit taking photos and enjoying the views.  Both teams began their descent from the crater rim and will return to Camp Muir for a short rest before continuing down the mountain.

We look forward to seeing everyone back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb team.


So thrilled for John and team- What an amazing experience!! Can’t wait to see pics and hear all about your adventures.  Be safe- see you soon- Love you!!

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Posted by: Amy on 8/24/2014 at 9:15 am

This is the news I’ve been waiting for-I can’t wait to see the photos! The view must’ve been magnificent!!
congratulations Jason-and team!!

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Posted by: Anna Marie Brick on 8/24/2014 at 8:28 am

Mt. Rainier: August 7th Update

Posted by: Brent Okita, Garrett Stevens, Walter Hailes | August 07, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Brent Okita and Walter Hailes, reached the summit at 7:00 a.m.  The winds were 20-25 mph and a clear day.  They are currently descending to Camp Muir.

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz, led by Garrett Stevens, is currently on the summit reaching the top via the Kautz Glacier Route.

Congratulations to today’s teams!

View of Mt. Adams from high break on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita

Congrats Shane!!! I am so proud of you and your
dedication. I can’t wait to hear all about it. Love-
Misty, Nathan, Ayden, and Brinley

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Posted by: Misty on 8/8/2014 at 12:49 pm

I want to thank Brent again for all of his assistance and support on the climb.  I couldn’t have done it otherwise.

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Posted by: Jerry Thomas on 8/8/2014 at 7:11 am

Mt. Rainier:  Teams on Top via Emmons and Disappointment Cleaver Routes

Posted by: Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens, Win Whittaker | July 31, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Garrett Stevens and Win Whittaker reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The teams reported cool temperatures, winds 20 mph and clear skies.  They began their descent from the summit at 7 am en route to Camp Muir.  They will take a short break there before continuing down to Paradise.

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens also made their summit push today.  Geoff and team were also beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7 am. They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

An RMI Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons Team approaching Inter Glacier on Mt. Rainier.  Photo: RMI Collection

Way to go Pete Lynn!  Want to hear all about it.  Tracked all the way up.

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Posted by: Bill Adkins on 8/1/2014 at 5:43 pm

Hi Arthur and Owen with team Emmons. Have been following you all the way to the summit (well at least since 6.00am!). That was so awesome to watch. Congrats to… read more

Posted by: Shirley Eigenbrot on 7/31/2014 at 5:05 pm

Mt. Rainier: July 13th Summit

Posted by: Garrett Stevens | July 13, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

At 7:25 AM, RMI Guide Garrett Stevens and the Four Day Summit Climb team radioed from the top of Disappointment Cleaver on their descent from the summit of Mt Rainier.  Garrett reported warm temperatures and a light wind making for a perfect, bluebird day.  We look forward to greeting the team in Ashford this afternoon.


RMI climbers crossing the crater rim of Mt. Rainier, WA. Photo: Brent Okita

Thinking about you Kimberly
Love your FB pics
Wishing you all the best - and hoping you see the summit tomorrow.
XOXO Maud Brian Finn and Lucia

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Posted by: Maud on 7/13/2014 at 11:57 am

Good on ya Kimberly. I hope it was a grand adventure finish strong we are thinking of you. Renee & Patrick

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Posted by: Renee & Patrick on 7/13/2014 at 11:43 am

Mt. Rainier: July 9th - Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Stoney Molina, Leah Fisher, Garrett Stevens, Nick Hunt, Pepper Dee | July 09, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four and Five Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Garret Stevens were just leaving the crater rim at 7:19 am.  The teams have had a blue bird morning with clear skies, great views and light winds. We expect the teams back at Rainier Base Camp this afternoon.

Congratulations to Today’s Teams!

Crossing the Crate Rim on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita Leaving the Summit of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita

We did it! Thank you all for wishes.
Bing Thanks to Mike, Leah and Stoney for being such wonderful guides and making this hike memorable!

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Posted by: Atul on 7/10/2014 at 12:15 pm

Amazing accomplishment!
Congratulations to Dimitri and his buddies!

√ done-:)...

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Posted by: Michelle BB on 7/9/2014 at 8:13 pm

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Wrap it Up

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

June 23, 2014 - 2:10 PM PT

The day, yesterday, dawned cold and windy again, seemingly the weather theme for the entire trip. We decided to launch out of 11k camp anyway, with the siren song of airplane rides motivating our packing. When all the kits were loaded into duffels, we started the Kahiltna Shuffle in whiteout conditions, a stiff breeze keeping the temps cool despite the hard work of dragging big sleds downhill.

Soon we passed our friends who were camped at 9500’, and stopped in for a quick hello as the weather got just a little better. We continued down the glacier under improving skies, with only one or two minor freak-outs over the cumbersome sleds that threatened to take us out at the knees.

Finally the sun broke through, and the last grind up Heartbreak Hill was about as hot as anywhere on earth. But with the blue skies, we knew that the planes were flying - and that kept us moving right into base camp. Within about 10 minutes, our K2 Aviation Otter had landed, and we loaded up the kit and let internal combustion take over.

The evening wrap-up by the Susitna River was a special event, and Denali even came out from behind the clouds to give us full closure. It has been an incredible adventure from the very beginning, and while the actual climbing is over, the memories and experiences we’ve shared will remain. Thanks for following along and for all the support along the way!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team

RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team wrap up their trip along the banks of the Susitna River in Talkeetna, Alaska. Photo: Tyler Jones

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Congrats to the team! I can’t wait to hear more about the trip and see more pictures. Love you Jake and hope to see you soon

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Posted by: Bonnie Garfield on 6/24/2014 at 7:33 am

Tyler, Garrett and Geoff….well done and thank you from all of the John Stenderup family.  The RMI experience for John included weather adversity and other circumstances that will be life… read more

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 9:13 pm

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Take it to 11K Camp

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 22, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

June 22, 2014 - 12:49 am PT

Today we woke to a cold, windy morning at high camp after yesterday’s amazing summit. The blowing snow and frigid temperatures kept us tent-bound until mid-day, when the allure of thicker air and warmer temperatures finally got us motivated to pack up and get moving.

The first stretch down the buttress was windy and cold, but by the time we reached Washburn’s Thumb it was much warmer and calmer. We made quick work of the last stretch to the lines, and then shot down the fixed ropes like it was our job. Soon we were dropping packs back in 14k camp, saying hey to Billy Nugent and Mike Haugen and their respective teams, picking up our cache and getting ready to move further down.

Soon enough, we got past Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills, revisiting our old stomping grounds at 11k. We pulled out all the cheese, meat, tortillas, and bagels we had, and commenced to put them all onto the griddle for the annual tradition of the “11,000’ Cheese Fry”. Basically we just cook all the goodness until folks are full, and then it’s off to bed for the early am launch.

We’re definitely missing the team members who had to head home early, and hope that everyone is warm and dry. Lots of walking left, but we should be at the airstrip tomorrow if all goes according to plan. We’ll check back then!

RMI Guides Garrett Stevens, Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens and the No Troubles team

RMI Climbers descending above Washburn's Thumb on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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I can’t begin to know how you feel about what you’ve accomplished! Can’t wait to see you and hear it all through your eyes. Besides we need you…Tristan… read more

Posted by: Suzanne on 6/23/2014 at 1:34 am

John, so proud of you and the rest of the team, have been helping you along, knew you could do it!  See you soon here in the nice hot valley.… read more

Posted by: Farmor on 6/22/2014 at 6:14 pm

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Patience Delivers the Summit

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 21, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

June 21, 2014 - 2:56 am PT

Well, you probably heard our summit phone call from earlier today, so this is just the follow-up to that. We had a heck of a day here in the high altitudes of North America, rising from the tents early this morning to cold temperatures, light winds, and high clouds. We decided that it was going to be a day for an attempt, and once we had basked in the sun for a bit we headed over to the shade of the Autobahn. Two hours later we had passed the difficulties of the pickets and the exposure below, and we stepped out around Denali Pass.

The weather was still a bit in and out, but the No Troubles crew was moving well so we kept at it. Up steep rolls, over undulating terrain, and higher and higher we climbed. We passed familiar landmarks as the day went on, like Zebra Rocks, Archdeacon’s Tower, the Football Field, and finally crested onto the summit ridge in cold wind and clear blue skies. Late this afternoon, we reached the highest point on this continent, and emotions ran high as we hugged, high-fived, and snapped photos. Jake’s team came up onto the top just as we were getting ready to head down, and we were thrilled to share that special moment with them.

This team has had a full value experience, especially with all the uncertainty and waiting that we’ve endured. Now it’s time for one last hot drink and then into the bag for a much-deserved rest. Down tomorrow, hopefully the weather holds for a flight soon!


RMI Guides Tyler, Geoff, Garrett and the No Troubles team

Descending the West Buttress on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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Congratulations!!  We were there in ‘96 with RMI in total whiteout.  Enjoy the views!!!

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Posted by: Keith on 6/22/2014 at 7:55 am

Jennifer - Congrats on your successful climb. Jacob

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Posted by: Jacob on 6/22/2014 at 7:21 am

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