Entries By henry coppolillo

The team absolutely styled Cotopaxi this morning, or more accurately, last night. Midnight departures are more or less the standard here in Ecuador, as the hut staff typically provides hot water for coffee and tea and bread rolls with butter and jam at 11 pm. We started out on a winding sandy trail above the refugio that quickly turned to firm crunchy snow, and were soon traversing the lower slopes of the glacier.

A brief but intense rain storm rolled through yesterday afternoon not long after we had arrived at the hut, so we approached the steeper upper mountain with caution due to some uncertainty around how much snow had fallen up there and how the resulting avalanche conditions might manifest. The tropical high-alpine snowpack on these peaks can behave in strange ways and is often unlike anything we'd typically encounter in the mountains back home. But this time around Dustin and I were pleasantly surprised to find an unreactive interface and minimal slab formation from the previous day's weather. The few inches that had fallen did however make for excellent climbing conditions, allowing us to move through the steep and exposed switchbacks below the summit confidently and efficiently.

Perhaps the only detracting factor of the climb was our few moments on the summit itself, which were kept rather brief due to lots of nasty smelling sulfuric gas, and lacked the iconic views of Cotopaxi's massive crater which was largely obscured by clouds. Once on the descent however the team continued to crush it, and we were back at the Refugio Jose Rivas before 8 am! This meant we've had most of the day to catch up on sleep, food and hydration at Hacienda La Cienega. Tomorrow we'll head to Chimborazo Lodge and start preparing for our last big objective! 

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo

PS- I failed to take a single blog-worthy photo today, but I think Dustin has a few decent ones. I'll ask him to send them when he wakes up from his nap. 

We are settled in at the Refugio Jose Rivas on Cotopaxi. It is an exceptionally beautiful evening above the valley cloud cover with the sun setting on the mountain.

A couple of nights of good sleep have done everyone well and we are as ready to climb as we can be. The team is hopping into bed right now in anticipation of another alpine start.

RMI Guide Dustin & Team

The whole team stood on top of Cayambe today! An 11 p.m. wake up had us leaving the hut shortly after midnight, winding our way up rocky trails for a little over an hour to the base of the glacier. From there we made great time up the moderate slopes that make up the lower half of the route. Somewhere in the 17,500’ range the glacier becomes much more complex and the slope angle increases significantly. Slow and steady movement up firm and exposed terrain brought us to the seemingly endless summit plateau, but by 6:45 a.m. the entire team was on top at 18,997’! Winds were gusty throughout the night and most of us were in all our layers for the latter half of the ascent. But as we started down the temperatures soared under the equatorial sun and we were soon in base layers trudging back towards the hut. We climbed through intermittent clouds and fog all night, but by morning most of the clouds cleared out and we were treated to our first clear views of Cotopaxi and Chimborazo! After a long and tiring day we’re all looking forward to a full night’s sleep and a rest day tomorrow before heading south to Cotopaxi! 

--RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo and team

We have made our way north, through a variety of detours that have served to continue or process of acclimatization, keep us well fed and give us the opportunity to learn about the culture. Yesterday, we went for a loop hike around the beautiful Laguna Cuicocha. Over just a short distance, the fauna changes drastically as one side of the lake is far more arid than the side that sits right up against Volcan Cotacachi. It was a thoroughly enjoyable hike as we rambled through a variety of microclimates and had the chance to see condors in flight. But you know, there is always something new or interesting to see along the way. Sometimes at the end of the day it's something small, like a cheese ice cream, that stands out.

After a relaxing night at the Intiyaya residences, which in Kichwa (the native language in parts of Ecuador and slightly different than Quechua) may roughly translate to "Father Sun", we departed for the busy streets of the Otavalo market. It was a drizzly day, but Saturday is always bustling in the market. The usual bartering took place, copious espressos were consumed and then we made our way to the Yanacocha Hut, on the lower slopes of Cayambe. Everyone is tucked into bed here in the comfort of a hut we have all to ourselves. On deck for tomorrow is one last leg of travel that will take us to the main Cayambe hut (15,400') and the base of the climb.

If the weather cooperates tomorrow, then right about the time they are awarding the Super Bowl MVP we will be waking up for our alpine start on Cayambe. The climbing takes place at night here for a variety of factors, which can all be summed up by saying that the weather at night tends to be the most stable when the air is coolest. In addition to that, it is very difficult to trudge uphill during the daylight in this region as the sun's radiation is so intense, so we hope to be headed downhill by just after sunrise.

Check back on Monday afternoon to find out if the mountain allowed us passage this time around!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Day two in Ecuador and we are already tagging 15,000'! The teleferico (gondola) whisked us up to 13,000, and then we started the hike through the gently rolling highlands below Rucu Pichincha. Swirling clouds throughout the day kept us from getting our first views of Cayambe and Cotopaxi, but also kept the sun at bay and made for pleasant hiking temperatures. After an hour or so of hiking through the grasslands the gradient kicked up and we started to pick up elevation quickly, traversing exposed slopes around to the far side of the peak, where a short but fun scramble brought us to the summit of Rucu Pichincha at 15,407'. With overcast skies and rain in the forecast we were on the lookout for afternoon thunderstorms, but the team moved well and we made quick work of the descent before any rain drops could reach us. 

Now we're all back at Hotel Mercure to rest the legs, dry out our trail shoes and pack up to leave the big city tomorrow. The team is feeling strong, psyched and ready for Cayambe! 

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo

The team enjoyed a great first day here in Quito! We met as a group for the first time this morning and headed out to explore the city. First stop was a visit to the equator, followed by the Church of La Compania and Independence Square. With many of us arriving late last night or in the wee hours of the morning we are looking forward to catching up on some sleep and heading into thinner air on Rucu Pichincha tomorrow! 

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo & Team

Mt. Baker Seminar Update

Yesterday, the team trained on Mt. Erie, learning essential climbing skills like rope management, knots, belaying, and Leave No Trace principles. Early this morning, they regrouped, reorganized their mountain gear, and began the hike to Hogsback Camp. The 5–6 hour trek gained 2,200 feet through lush forest and alpine meadows, arriving at camp at 5,800'. The afternoon was spent setting up camp, practicing mountain skills, and relaxing in the alpine setting.

After two days of heavy rain kept the Five Day Team hunkered down in the hut at Camp Muir, conditions finally began to improve around 7:00 AM this morning. Although the team was unable to make their summit attempt, they made the most of the break in the weather by venturing out onto the Cowlitz Glacier for a scenic walk and additional mountaineering training.

Led by guides Henry Coppolillo and Bailey Servais, the team is now departing Camp Muir and heading back to Paradise. They’re expected to arrive in the early afternoon, wrapping up their adventure with resilience and camaraderie despite the challenging conditions.

After several days of training including a Mountaineering Day School and Technical training day, the RMI Emmons Seminar July 25 - 30 team began their ascent of Mt. Rainier.  Transferring to the White River Entrance the team set off from the trailhead with heavy packs to establish their first night's camp.  With nice temperatures and blue skies they continued their training, establishing camp, practicing crevasse rescue, setting anchors and belays.  The team ascended to Camp Schurman where they established their second camp.  This morning, with an alpine start, the team made a successful ascent to the summit of Mt. Rainier. The nice weather continues for them as they descend back to Camp Schurman. They will spend another night at camp before continuing down to the trailhead tomorrow. We look forward to hearing more about their adventure tomorrow afternoon when they return to Rainier BaseCamp.

Nice work team!

PC: Arianna Drechsler

On July 18th, the RMI team, led by guide Henry Coppolillo, successfully reached the summit of Forbidden Peak, completing the climb via the renowned West Ridge route.

The journey began with a picturesque trek through the North Cascades’ alpine meadows, immersing them in the region's rugged beauty. To prepare for the challenging summit push, they trained on the iconic Sharkfin Tower, sharpening their skills and refining their techniques. With an early alpine start on the 18th, the team navigated glaciers and rocky terrain to reach the top of this stunning peak.

Nice Work Climbers!