Entries By jackson breen

Monday, May 23, 2022 - 6:10 pm PT

Today we awoke to a world of synchronized visual perception, everything was the same milky white, the sky, the ground and the thin cover of frost draped over all the man made intrusions on this arctic alpine environment. Quite a stark contrast from the last few days of around the clock blue skies.

Despite the lack of visibility we still prepared to carry our gear as if the weather wasn’t part of the equation, hoping the eternal Alaskan summer sun would penetrate the trillions of suspended water molecules, and provide us with the conditions so desired to continue the task of climbing this mountain.

Unfortunately that didn’t happen soon enough, so we decided to use our time in the next most productive way, resting. The team enjoyed letting our bodies recuperate and help red blood cell counts climb after four days of work.

Tomorrow we will see what the mountain sends our way and keep you all posted!

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team

Sunday, May 22, 2022 - 10:15 pm PT

Back carry day.

Today was a little more relaxed than the last few, although we still got up early to beat the heat. We walked downhill to retrieve our gear from our cache, with commanding views of Foraker and Crosson. We were back at 11,000ft Camp by 11 in the morning and spent the rest of the day eating pancakes and reviewing mountaineering skills.

Weather permitting we hope to cache as close to 14,000' camp as we can tomorrow!

Thanks for following along.

RMI Guides JT, Jackson, Matias and the RMI team

Saturday, May 21, 2022 - 9:49 pm PT

Today we poked our heads out of our bags just as the sun was doing the same above the eastern horizon. Believe it or not it can be incredibly hot on Denali, and today was one of those days.

We got out and up to 11,000' Camp in great form, just as the inferno hit. We set up camp while the glaciers around us reflected the long wave radiation, making it feel as if we were in a microwave. But regardless we got camp set up and got some time to relax.

It’s been a grueling few days and now we get to enjoy the relative comfort of 11,000' Camp.

That’s all for now.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

Friday May 20 - 10:38pm

Today we woke to another perfectly sunny windless day. The team moved strongly up to 10,000 feet where we cached gear to retrieve later.

After that we made short work of the descent, and are now back at camp 1, hoping to move up the mountain tomorrow!!

JT and the RMI team

Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 12:35 am PT

Today the team woke up from a tumultuously excited slumber to bluebird skies and calm winds in Talkeetna, which apparently mirrored the conditions in the Alaska range. Due to our fastidious preparation the day before we stepped off the asphalt onto two full loaded Dehavilland Otters shortly after 830.

As the wheels left the tarmac we were treated to the most incredible flight into the Alaska Range I have ever experienced. It seemed as if we could see forever, and that’s because I’m pretty sure we could. The winds were so calm that we could fly through passes with granite and glaciers towering above the planes, seemingly no more than a wingspan away.

As the skis of the Otters came to a stop we were pleased to hear the sound of frozen crunchy snow beneath our boots. After a few hours of re packing and reviewing skills, we walked to Camp 1 under deep blue skies, wearing nothing but our sun hoodies and toothy grins.

Now we are settled into our sleeping bags, much like our camp is nestled in the immense beauty of the alaska range.

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.

Wednesday, May 18, 2022 - 11:19 pm PT

Here is the first dispatch from the third RMI Denali team! We are all packed up and ready to fly in the morning. Our team was efficient and prepared today as we organized all the necessary items for a Denali expedition. The weather is beautiful in Talkeetna and we are excited for the climb ahead. 

RMI guides Jackson Breen, Matias Francis, JT Schmitt and team. 

The Four Day Climb August 7 - 10 led by RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Avery Parrinello reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 6:30 am PT.  The team enjoyed a light breeze and good visibility under an overcast sky. They spent time crossing the crater to reach Columbia Crest, the highest point on Mt. Rainier and in Washington.  After taking all the photos and enjoying the views, the team left the crater rim just after 8 am PT.  They will travel 4.5 miles and 4,500' retracing their steps from early this morning to return to Camp Muir.  Once they have removed their glacier travel gear and repacked their backpacks, they will continue another 4.5 miles and 4,500' back to Paradise.

Nice work today team!  Congratulations!

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli led the Paradise Seminar team through training and to the top of Mt. Rainier this week!  Various mountaineering skills were taught in order to arm these mountaineers with bigger mountains goals as well as feeling more comfortable in their climbing abilities.

The team is currently on their descent from the Mt. Rainier summit and will finish their program with a celebration back in Ashford.

RMI Guides Casey Grom & Alex Halliday led their Four Day Climb Teams July 10 - 13, 2021 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The teams reached the crater rim at 5:10 am.  Skies were clear and winds were calm as the teams enjoyed some time on the summit.   They began their descent from the crater rim at 6:30 am.  Once back at Camp Muir they will repack and continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise. 

Congratulations to today's climbers!

The Four Day Climb July 2 - 5, 2021 reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier at 5:30 am today with blue skies above and good route conditions under foot.  The teams, led by RMI Guides JM Gorum and Joe Hoch, enjoyed some time in the crater and spent time taking in the views.  The route remains in good condition with a nice boot pack trail.  Back at Camp Muir the teams will get a short break to repack gear and re-hydrate before descending the final 4,500' to Paradise.

Congratulations to the Four Day Climb team!