Entries By leif bergstrom
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Climb, led by RMI Guides Jack Delaney and Leif Bergstrom, reached the summit of Mount Rainier this morning, marking a successful ascent despite the cloud cover below. The weather was favorable, with clear skies overhead, and the team made the most of the opportunity, choosing today for their summit attempt as forecasts predict rising winds and rain tonight. After celebrating their success, they began their descent from the crater rim just after 10 am. The team will return to Camp Muir for a well-deserved rest before tackling the final 4,500-foot descent to Paradise tomorrow.
Congratulations climbers!
Posted by: Avery Stolte, Mike Bennett, Dominic Cifelli, Dylan Anderson, Nina Bridges, Leif Bergstrom, David Rathbun, Ben Porter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
This morning at 5:30 AM PDT, the Four Day Climbs led by RMI Guides Avery Stolte and Mike Bennett reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. Avery reported beautiful weather with no wind. With the early morning summit, the teams are currently descending back to Camp Muir where they will pack their bags before descending the Muir Snowfield to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford later this afternoon.
Congratulations climbers!
Posted by: Leif Bergstrom, Ben Thorneycroft
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guides Leif Bergstrom & Ben Thorneycroft have been training and climbing via the Emmons Glacier. Yesterday they moved to Camp Schurman and this morning launched their alpine start. Their team was in the summit crater around 7 am and is now making their way back to camp. They will spend a second night at Camp Schurman and then continue down to the trailhead near White River Campground tomorrow. The team will conclude their adventure tomorrow afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford.
Nice work team!
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Sam Marjerison, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Billings, Arianna Drechsler, Layne Peters, Imogen Von Mertens, Brendan Oates
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
The Five Day Climb June 28 - 2 July led by RMI Guides Jack Delaney and Sam Marjerison reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning on a beautiful day. The teams enjoyed some time on the summit before beginning their descent from the crater rim around 9 am. The climbers will return to Camp Muir for their second night on the mountain and enjoy the views and their accomplishment. Tomorrow the teams will descend the remaining 4,500' to Paradise.
Nice work today team!
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 348'
Wednesday, June 17, 2025 - 10:20 am PT
Well, like all good things, this too must come to an end. Sorry we’ve been a bit MIA since summit day—those final days all start to blur together. You don’t get much downtime until you're either sitting at the airstrip waiting out the weather or lucky enough to fly straight to Talkeetna.
Three days ago, on June 14th, we stood on top. The following morning, June 15th, the team packed up camp and began the long, challenging descent. We dropped down the West Buttress around noon, descended the fixed lines, and stopped at 14,000' Camp for a brief six-hour nap.
After our rest, we had a quick dinner at midnight, then loaded up all of our gear from the last two weeks and began the march back to basecamp. We made our way around Windy Corner, down Squirrel and Motorcycle Hill, and finally back to 11,000' Camp. There, we whispered hellos to Dom’s team—who were sound asleep—grabbed our cache, transitioned back to snowshoes, and continued past Camp One to basecamp.
By around 9 a.m. on the morning of June 16th, we arrived at basecamp to good weather and the chance to fly straight off the glacier. By noon, we were back in Talkeetna wearing flip-flops, and by 2 p.m., we were sharing beers and laughter, wrapping up our expedition at the Brew Pub.
It’s all been a bit of a haze—amazing, exhausting, unforgettable. In the moment, it felt like it moved slowly, but now that we’re back on dry land, it’s hard to believe how fast it all went by.
If you've been following me for years, you know I'm a fan of Hiakus...
Fresh socks, frozen boots
Glacier sunburn, summit views
Fly me to a beer
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 27, 2025
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 20,310'
June 14th
The teams made it to the top! We've got a lot to say, but for now it's a late night and we are trying to eat dinner and get some sleep. Everyone pushed hard, and it was a beautiful summit day! About 11-12 hours round trip, primarily filled with sunshine.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 27, 2025
Job well done Mila and team! Glad to see everyone made it safe and sound. Welcome back to “civilization”. Can’t wait to hear all about your adventure and experience.
Kim
Posted by: Kim on 6/17/2025 at 11:57 am
Congratulations all, you did it - what an accomplishment!!! Jarmila, I agree with Tanya’s message - we can’t wait to hear about about the expedition, see all of your photos and celebrate with you upon your safe return back to the bay! WOW!
Posted by: Sarah on 6/16/2025 at 4:34 pm
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
Friday June 13, 2025 10:04pm PDT
One step closer to the summit.
This morning we woke up under surprisingly warm temperatures (for Denali) and started the stoves. After a quick dinner and packing of the essential overnight gear we began our journey out of 14,000’ camp, up towards the fixed lines and onto the west buttress proper. After the steep technical climbing of the fixed lines, we transitioned to the picturesque but Exposed ridgeline that makes up the name of this classic route. Comprised of steep drop offs, and beautiful exposed granite we weaved Our way from 16,200’, to our final destination for the night 17,200’ camp.
Still blessed by sunshine and warm temperatures (again, for Denali). We quickly built our new camp, started water, and settled into our home for the night. Tomorrow is still looking good for our summit Push, and everyone is feeling all the emotions - but primarily excitement.
Our goal is to start climbing at 10am tomorrow before We roll into our long summit day. Hopefully check in tomorrow with the best news!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 27, 2025
Mila and team wishing you good weather and sending lots of energy for the final push ! Enjoy and be safe!
Posted by: Eva McDevitt on 6/14/2025 at 9:32 pm
Mila and the team, wishing you the best weather for the final push!
Enjoy the summit views and have a safe journey back!
Posted by: Sarka on 6/14/2025 at 8:51 pm
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Thursday June, 12, 2025 9:21pm PDT
Our final rest day in the books. We let the sun warm our tents before we finally crawled out to share a meal of hashbrowns and eggs. After a relaxed and slow morning, we then spent the day basking in the sun like lizards, seeing what other climbers were offering up, and getting our gear ready for the summit push - which would be starting tomorrow.
We are all very excited and looking forward to moving to 17,000’ camp tomorrow.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 27, 2025
Stephen and team,
I just heard you made it to the summit. Amazing! I’m so excited for you. Way to go pushing yourself through this challenge. I hope to hear about this adventure someday.
Posted by: Tammy Nemetz on 6/15/2025 at 4:43 am
OMG!! You are almost there and our adventure novel will come to an end! We can’t wait to read the final chapter!! We are cheering you on and we are in absolute awe of your strength, courage and tenacity!! Stay safe and warm!
<3
Stephen’s Fam
Posted by: Deb Kendall on 6/13/2025 at 9:56 am
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, June 11, 2025 - 10:22 pm PT
Today brought the perfection we've been waiting on since our journey began. Blue skies, sunshine, warmth. We walked up the fixed lines with the sun on our backs. The most technical climbing we have seen to date, we secured ourselves to the fixed lines with our ascenders and made our way to the ridge where we placed our final cache. We made it back to camp around 5pm, greeted with more sunshine, and re-hydrated before dinner. Mac'n'Cheeze was in the menu for the evening accompanied by chatter of a potential summit window. We look forward to a day of rest tomorrow, and are hopeful to move to 17,000' Camp Friday.
Fingers crossed!
Thanks for tuning in.
xoxo RMI Guides Hannah, Nikki, & Leif
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 27, 2025
We’re praying for you all. Get to that summit and then get Dork back home. We love you, Brandon!
Posted by: Erica Stietenroth on 6/12/2025 at 11:03 pm
Finally, good weather when you need it most.
Climb Strong. Stay Sharp. Summit Safe!
Posted by: Larry Lytle on 6/12/2025 at 1:46 pm
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 14,000'
After our big day yesterday, today was some well deserved R & R. We slept in a bit and had a slow morning of bagels and bacon. We then headed to the edge of camp to dig up our cache. After a few hours of rest we then took some time to review fixed rope skills to prepare us for tomorrow, to carry up the fixed lines up above 16,000'.
We then enjoyed some dinner of potato soup and chicken sausage and called it a night.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 27, 2025
Tell Brandon we are sending good vibes, a lot of positive energy and a lot of Prayers! Remember, You’re not just climbing the highest mountain in North America, but you’re proving how strong you truly are!
Climb High and Stay Strong!
You Got This! Can’t wait to drink a beer with you as soon as you’re back. JT
Posted by: John Tamburo on 6/12/2025 at 7:30 am
Tell Brandon the megel bros and burn we hope you’ll doing great keep pushing almost there! Remember if it doesn’t challenge you it won’t change you!
Posted by: Derek goral on 6/11/2025 at 5:55 pm
Congratulations to Leland and the entire team!!! Have a safe trip down to Paradise!
Posted by: Emily Hardcastle on 7/20/2025 at 7:32 pm
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