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Entries By leif bergstrom


McKinley Expedition: Bergstrom & Team Have Had Smooth Climbing to 11K Camp

Saturday June 20 - 8:45pm PST

We’re progressing well up the mountain and having fun! Currently we are at 11k camp with a cache at 10k feet. Tomorrow we plan on retrieving our cache and to place our next cache around 14k the following day. We will see if the weather cooperates with that plan. We’ve been blessed with great weather so far, if even a little hot in the sun. After the first couple days sleeping on the glacier, I’m excited to be making vertical progress!

- RMI Climber Daniel

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar led by Leif Bergstrom reaches summit via Emmons Glacier

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Leif Bergstrom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today via the Emmons Glacier.  The team bumped up to Camp Schurman yesterday putting their glacier travel, ice ace arrest and cramponing skills they learned over the last few days to the test. Once back to Camp Schurman, they will enjoy the afternoon and evening.  Tomorrow they will break camp and descend to the trailhead, returning to Ashford tomorrow afternoon.

Congratulations to our first Emmons Seminar team!

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Team Reaches Ingraham Flats

The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guide Ben Ammon took a sunrise walk to Ingraham Flats this morning, reaching 11,200'.  Unstable snow conditions made their decision to turn around. The team returned to Camp Muir and plans to start their descent to Paradise around 9:30 am.   They will return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climbs with Grom and Bergstrom Reach Summit

RMI Guides Casey Grom & Leif Bergstrom led their Five Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Leif reported great conditions, not too hot and not too windy.  The teams will return to Camp Muir to rest and relax this afternoon.  They will spend their second night on the mountain tonight, and descend the remaining 4,500' to Paradise tomorrow.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Mt. Rainier: Today’s teams turned back by winds and weather

The Four Day Climb August 16 - 19 led by RMI Guides Leif Bergstrom and Ben Luedtke reached 12,800' today before high winds and a descending cloud cap forced them to turn around.  The teams returned safely to Camp Muir around 8 am. They will repack and continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise later this morning.

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Mt. Rainier: Okita and Bergstrom Turn at 12,900’

On August 7, 2025, the RMI Expeditions Four Day Climb, led by guides Brent Okita and Leif Bergstrom, made the difficult but wise decision to turn around at 12,900 feet due to challenging route conditions. The team was greeted with sunny skies and stunning views above a thick marine layer, a reminder of the mountain’s ever-changing beauty and unpredictability.

While the summit remained out of reach this time, the climb was far from a disappointment. Every step taken on Mount Rainier is a testament to preparation, teamwork, and respect for nature’s power. 

The decision to turn back is never easy, especially when the weather above is clear and inviting. But it’s precisely in these moments that true mountaineering wisdom shines.

The team’s effort, spirit, and camaraderie made this climb a success in its own right.

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Thank you for your caution and professional decision.  You had my beautiful daughter among your team.

Posted by: Nancy Till on 8/8/2025 at 3:42 pm


Mt. Shuksan: Bergstrom & Team Reach Summit via Fisher Chimneys

RMI Guide Leif Bergstrom and team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan today via the Fisher Chimneys route. Leif reported that they were enjoying a really nice day. They will return to camp for a final night on the mountain and descend to the traillhead tomorrow.

Nice work team!

PC: Leif Bergstrom

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

The Five Day Climb, led by RMI Guides Jack Delaney and Leif Bergstrom, reached the summit of Mount Rainier this morning, marking a successful ascent despite the cloud cover below. The weather was favorable, with clear skies overhead, and the team made the most of the opportunity, choosing today for their summit attempt as forecasts predict rising winds and rain tonight. After celebrating their success, they began their descent from the crater rim just after 10 am. The team will return to Camp Muir for a well-deserved rest before tackling the final 4,500-foot descent to Paradise tomorrow.

Congratulations climbers!

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Congratulations to Leland and the entire team!!! Have a safe trip down to Paradise!

Posted by: Emily Hardcastle on 7/20/2025 at 7:32 pm


Mt. Rainier:  Four Day Climbs Reach Summit!

This morning at 5:30 AM PDT, the Four Day Climbs led by RMI Guides Avery Stolte and Mike Bennett reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. Avery reported beautiful weather with no wind. With the early morning summit, the teams are currently descending back to Camp Muir where they will pack their bags before descending the Muir Snowfield to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford later this afternoon.

 

Congratulations climbers!

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Mt. Rainier: Bergstrom & Emmons Seminar Team Reach Summit

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guides Leif Bergstrom & Ben Thorneycroft have been training and climbing via the Emmons Glacier. Yesterday they moved to Camp Schurman and this morning launched their alpine start.  Their team was in the summit crater around 7 am and is now making their way back to camp.  They will spend a second night at Camp Schurman and then continue down to the trailhead near White River Campground tomorrow.  The team will conclude their adventure tomorrow afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford.

Nice work team!

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