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Entries By matias francis

Denanli Expedition: Schmitt & Team Make the Move to 14,000ft Camp

Thursday, May 26, 2022 - 1:09 am PT

Today started with a classic case of the Denali waiting game due to another snowy morning at 11,000' Camp. After breakfast we waited (mostly packed) in our tents to see what the weather was going to do.

As we waited in nervous anticipation, the only sounds you could hear was the flit, flit, flit of snow falling against the tent, the occasional clang of a pot from somewhere in camp, and the ziiiiiip of a tent opening just enough for a restless head to peek out and look up the mountain.

At around 930 the clouds broke enough for us to see that the winds were not blowing around the newly fallen snow, so in organized chaos we finished packing up and departed camp.

We then spent the day in and out of the clouds which saved us from the heat we have become quite accustomed to trying to avoid.

And now we are all set up at 14,000' Camp and looking forward to some rest after a hard week!

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the rest of the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Enjoy your R&R at 14, and good luck when it’s time to move higher! Great following your excellent progress upwards!

Posted by: Henry & Kathy Huntington on 5/26/2022 at 9:11 am

AMAZING! Keep the post coming. They are a highlight of our day. :)

Posted by: Pat & Amy Breen on 5/26/2022 at 8:08 am

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Carry Gear to 13,500ft

Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 7:42 pm PT

What a day it was today! We were able to cache at 13,500 ft. The winds were calm all day, and the clouds were only below us, which created a sense of floating through the sky as we carried out gear up the mountain.

Now we are back at 11,000' Camp, all safe and sound!!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great to hear!! Sam you’re crushing it!!

Posted by: Ramsay Bader on 5/25/2022 at 8:30 pm

Great job everybody!  Thinking of you every day and hoping you’re having a great climb.  Love you Clare and Sam!

Posted by: Kathy Huntington on 5/25/2022 at 3:08 pm

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Enjoy Rest Day

Monday, May 23, 2022 - 6:10 pm PT

Today we awoke to a world of synchronized visual perception, everything was the same milky white, the sky, the ground and the thin cover of frost draped over all the man made intrusions on this arctic alpine environment. Quite a stark contrast from the last few days of around the clock blue skies.

Despite the lack of visibility we still prepared to carry our gear as if the weather wasn’t part of the equation, hoping the eternal Alaskan summer sun would penetrate the trillions of suspended water molecules, and provide us with the conditions so desired to continue the task of climbing this mountain.

Unfortunately that didn’t happen soon enough, so we decided to use our time in the next most productive way, resting. The team enjoyed letting our bodies recuperate and help red blood cell counts climb after four days of work.

Tomorrow we will see what the mountain sends our way and keep you all posted!

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Enjoy the rest little gomie :) Back to work tomorrow!

Posted by: Pat Breen on 5/24/2022 at 2:38 pm

Enjoy the rest day!!

Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/24/2022 at 9:15 am

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Bump all Gear to 11,000ft Camp

Sunday, May 22, 2022 - 10:15 pm PT

Back carry day.

Today was a little more relaxed than the last few, although we still got up early to beat the heat. We walked downhill to retrieve our gear from our cache, with commanding views of Foraker and Crosson. We were back at 11,000ft Camp by 11 in the morning and spent the rest of the day eating pancakes and reviewing mountaineering skills.

Weather permitting we hope to cache as close to 14,000' camp as we can tomorrow!

Thanks for following along.

RMI Guides JT, Jackson, Matias and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Woop woop! Awesome work everyone and lots of love to Sam and Clare!

Posted by: Caleb Huntington on 5/23/2022 at 1:39 pm

Amazing photos. And glad for the sunshine and great progress.  Houstons are glued to the blog!

Posted by: AMY HOUSTON on 5/23/2022 at 9:38 am

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Move to 11,000, Establish Camp

Saturday, May 21, 2022 - 9:49 pm PT

Today we poked our heads out of our bags just as the sun was doing the same above the eastern horizon. Believe it or not it can be incredibly hot on Denali, and today was one of those days.

We got out and up to 11,000' Camp in great form, just as the inferno hit. We set up camp while the glaciers around us reflected the long wave radiation, making it feel as if we were in a microwave. But regardless we got camp set up and got some time to relax.

It’s been a grueling few days and now we get to enjoy the relative comfort of 11,000' Camp.

That’s all for now.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt and Team Carry to 10,000’

Friday May 20 - 10:38pm

Today we woke to another perfectly sunny windless day. The team moved strongly up to 10,000 feet where we cached gear to retrieve later.

After that we made short work of the descent, and are now back at camp 1, hoping to move up the mountain tomorrow!!

JT and the RMI team

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Fly to the Glacier Settle in to Camp 1

Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 12:35 am PT

Today the team woke up from a tumultuously excited slumber to bluebird skies and calm winds in Talkeetna, which apparently mirrored the conditions in the Alaska range. Due to our fastidious preparation the day before we stepped off the asphalt onto two full loaded Dehavilland Otters shortly after 830.

As the wheels left the tarmac we were treated to the most incredible flight into the Alaska Range I have ever experienced. It seemed as if we could see forever, and that’s because I’m pretty sure we could. The winds were so calm that we could fly through passes with granite and glaciers towering above the planes, seemingly no more than a wingspan away.

As the skis of the Otters came to a stop we were pleased to hear the sound of frozen crunchy snow beneath our boots. After a few hours of re packing and reviewing skills, we walked to Camp 1 under deep blue skies, wearing nothing but our sun hoodies and toothy grins.

Now we are settled into our sleeping bags, much like our camp is nestled in the immense beauty of the alaska range.

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello Ken!  What amazing scenery!  Our best wishes to you and your team members for a safe and successful climb!  We’ll be following your progress.

Diane and John

Posted by: Diane and John Bertosa on 5/21/2022 at 11:11 am

What beautiful pictures!!  Must have been an amazing flight and glad to hear the walk to Camp 1 elicited more grins than groans (although one could not fault you for leaving those out of the blog!).  Thanks so much for posting!!

Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/21/2022 at 3:41 am

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Organize Gear in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly!

Wednesday, May 18, 2022 - 11:19 pm PT

Here is the first dispatch from the third RMI Denali team! We are all packed up and ready to fly in the morning. Our team was efficient and prepared today as we organized all the necessary items for a Denali expedition. The weather is beautiful in Talkeetna and we are excited for the climb ahead. 

RMI guides Jackson Breen, Matias Francis, JT Schmitt and team. 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

They’ve got great guides!

Posted by: George Strait on 5/20/2022 at 2:16 pm

Looks like a strong team!!!

Posted by: Anna Budayr on 5/20/2022 at 7:35 am

Mt. Rainier: Five-Day climb Enjoys Sunrise on Ingraham Flats

RMI Guides Grayson Swingle and Ben Liken reported the Five-Day climbing teams enjoyed a beautiful sunrise this morning. The team spent two nights at Camp Muir and enjoyed lots of hands-on training and practice to enhance their glacier travel skills all while ascending to Camp Muir in wonderful spring conditions. The team will descend to Basecamp and celebrate their accomplishments before everyone begins their next adventure home.

Leave a Comment For the Team

Cotopaxi Express: Wittmier & Team Reach summit of Illiniza Norte, Ready for Cotopaxi

When we arrived in Ecuador last weekend it had been rainy for weeks on end.  Even the first couple days of this trip were quite stormy in the afternoons.  But over the last couple days the patterns have been changing for the better.  This morning we leave the Chilcabamba Eco Lodge and have our fingers crossed for one more day of good weather!  Tomorrow is the main event, Cotopaxi summit day, and the excitement is palpable.  Looking out the main window of the dining room at Chilcabamba we can see the summit of Cotopaxi and most of the route.

Included in the pictures are a couple from Iliniza Norte yesterday and one of Cotopaxi from the back porch at Chilcabamba.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Wishing you Clear sky on Cotopaxi Dustin!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 11/5/2021 at 3:05 am

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