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Entries By matias francis


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to High Camp, Hope for Summit Attempt

Monday, May 31, 2021 - 10:21 pm PT

Both RMI Denali Expeditions led RMI Guides Mike Walter and Pete Van Deventer made it to High Camp today at 17, 200'. We are busy melting snow and making hot water for dinner. If the weather is good, we hope to go for the top tomorrow.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yessir! Good luck my guy. xoxo

Posted by: Z on 6/1/2021 at 8:39 am

I hope you make it

Posted by: Erin on 6/1/2021 at 8:09 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Prep and Organize for Move to 17,000ft

Sunday, May 30, 2021 - 9:45 pm PT

The weather trend is finally improving for us! Today was a relatively pleasant day at 14,000' Camp. The ridgeline above was showing some wind this morning but that diminished through the day. Rather than jump up there and get cold, chilly, and tire ourselves out doing a small cache, we opted to stay in camp, organize, and prep to move to 17,000' Camp tomorrow. That didn't seem to stop most of camp from taking a run at it, which only reinforced our decision. We'll look to get up early tomorrow, be early out of camp, and be settled in to 17,000' comfortably so that we're ready to summit the following day. The pace of things will accelerate now and everybody is excited!

RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Pulling hard for you Big Marc!! You got this!

Sending love and warmth from your fans in Seattle! Looking forward to cheersing your success with an ice cold rainier

Posted by: Patrick Smyton on 5/31/2021 at 10:31 pm

It is about six pm Pacific and I’m hoping you are all so snug at 17,000’ tonight.  Wishing you all safe climbing and clear skies. Go, team, go!!

Posted by: Bethany on 5/31/2021 at 6:07 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Hold Tight Due to Weather

Saturday, May 29, 2021 - 10:25 pm PT

The weather that was forecast to show up, came in the late morning. Everyone enjoyed quality tent time with movies, cards, and even some song writing. Stay tuned for the artists debut. We see improving weather conditions in the forecast, and are hoping to make some moves in the coming days.

RMI Guides Matias, Chase, Pete, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Praying for better weather to continue your journey. Praying for you, Luke and all of the team!

Posted by: Rae Wilson on 5/30/2021 at 7:19 pm

I have been following the blog everyday with growing excitement when you have a climbing day.  Sounds like everything is going good. Be safe. Mom

Posted by: Becky smith on 5/30/2021 at 1:17 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Practice Skills and Fortify Camp

Friday May 28, 2021 - 7:39pm PT 

The winds and snow moved out for us today and we got to enjoy some sun and warmth in camp. We could still see winds moving quickly at times up above us on the west buttress, but it was nice to have pleasant conditions for a bit. We took the opportunity to build some truly monumental walls to protect against an expected wind event tomorrow, then refreshed and practiced our fixed line travel to prep for when the weather and conditions let us go higher.

Tomorrow is almost certainly a tent bound day, but the trend looks good for us going into next week. For now, we're happy to be acclimating and getting strong at 14,000', and to be within striking distance of our objective.

RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go, Cram, Go!  Do it for the CZ.  Wishing you good luck and safe travels.

Posted by: Z (Simsbury) on 5/30/2021 at 9:46 am

It seems that there are several teams @ 14, 000 camp 3. You started out I believe, as 2nd team. do you have to wait for team one to go to the peak first? Either way God speed.

Posted by: Carter Thoenes on 5/29/2021 at 12:24 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take a Weather Day

Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 6:39pm PT

It sounded like rain drumming off the tent at a consistent staccato all night, into this morning. The problem was that there was frost in the tent and the temp was below zero. So was it rain? Nope. Graupel. Lots of graupel. As well as snow. And wind to move it. We had planned to rest anyways and that was perfect for today. We had a big bagel and smoked salmon brunch, then tucked back into tents to stay warm and dry.

The snow is anywhere from ankle to well over knee deep through camp. The wind have started to subside some this afternoon, but our world is still really white, with snow filtering down from the sky.

We'll do dinner and some warm tea and crawl into our sleeping bags to see what tomorrow brings.

RMI Guide Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hoping the storm passes and you have your days to move up and continue on safely. Keep the spirits up and enjoy every moment! Looking forward to the updates and we love you! - Katie & Sean

Posted by: Katie Baskin on 5/29/2021 at 8:07 am

Thank you for the opportunity to learn about graupel!!  What crazy weather you have had.  I am throwing all my weight behind good weather thoughts for you and your expeditions all.

Posted by: Bethany on 5/28/2021 at 3:05 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Fortify Tents, Enjoy Hidden Snacks

May 26, 2021 - 11:54 pm PT

We are happily reunited with all of our things at 14,000' Camp. We had a leisurely brunch before grabbing empty packs to drop back down and retrieve our cache at 13,500'. Laden back down with food, fuel, and snacks, we popped back up to camp in an easy hour. After a short siesta to discover what we'd hidden in that hole and go on a snacking binge, we threw our backs into building walls to protect our camp from what sounds like a bit of incoming weather. We're planning to take a rest day tomorrow, which lines up well with the weather and see what happens after that!

RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Great work everyone!! Stay warm and stay safe! Jason and Doug, everyone here at work is rooting for you!

Posted by: Breanna Watkins on 5/28/2021 at 5:26 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to 14,000ft Camp, Set up Camp in Windy Conditions

Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 12:36 am PT

It's been a wild day. Things were perfect this morning to move. We didn't rush out of camp, instead letting sun start to dry the frost from our tents before we packed them. The climb to 14,000' was pleasant all the way. There were some periods where a mild breeze cooled us, but in a way e were thankful for some respite from the heat of the sun. Once we got to 14,000' Camp, it got exciting. Just as we started to set up the first tents, we got hit with a blast of wind that was probably pushing 40 mph. Another was quick on its heels. And that was how it went - sudden strong blasts that weren't tied to hitting us from any one particular direction. It was a magnificent display of teamwork, as everybody came together to get tents up and then a wall built to provide some shelter from the gusts. We got a hot meal and are now deep in sleeping bags staying warm and drifting off to sleep. All in all, it was a great day and a great illustration of how Denali keeps you on your toes.

RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sending positive thoughts to Cram from the CZ. You got this!

Posted by: Z on 5/29/2021 at 6:37 pm

Glad you got up there Marc! Wishing you calm and less freezing weather along the way! Felix has been learning a lot about Denali and always has questions about how big it is.
Love, Little Sis

Posted by: Sandi on 5/26/2021 at 2:56 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Get Break in Weather, Cache Gear at 13,500ft

Monday, May 24, 2021 - 10:45 pm PT

Today was quite possibly the nicest day in the Alaska range that any of the guide team can remember. The last several days earned us a perfect, clear, calm day and as such the expedition cogs were churning all over camp. Teams that have been waiting to move to 14,000' Camp were busily taking down camp and teams that have been waiting to cache were saddling up to go. We already had packs loaded, so a quick breakfast got us going and then we were finally, FINALLY, climbing. The whole team climbed really strong, enjoying the chance to stretch our legs. A few stretches of walking got us to our cache location at 13,500', where we unloaded food and fuel, then enjoyed a light, quick jaunt back down to our 11,000' Camp. All told we had an easy six hours round trip. The forecast sounds like it's holding, so our intention tomorrow is to retrace our steps in the morning and head to our next home at 14,000'.

 

RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad you see you got to move again today!

Posted by: Sheila on 5/25/2021 at 8:52 pm

Wow this is amazing to “watch”! Praying for the whole team’s success. You got this, Matt! Enjoy every step.

Posted by: Linda Baker on 5/25/2021 at 5:41 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait at 11,000 Camp, Ready to Move up

Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 11:47 pm PT

Though it's almost June, the temps this morning hit us like the coldest winter chill.  When we first crawled out of the tents it looked like today would be the day. It was cold, but the winds were light in camp. Above, huge plumes of snow launched off of the upper elevation ridgelines, a clear visual of how hard the winds were blowing aloft, but with them coming out of the north, we hoped the mountain would provide shelter and that the warmth that came with the sun would tame the winds. Instead, the opposite happened. As we ate breakfast the winds steadily increased in camp to a small squall, injecting snow through any opening in tents or clothes. Word from higher up said 14,000' Camp was no better. So we got the message and settled in. They've calmed considerably since this afternoon and the forecast calls for them to continue to diminish, so we know we'll get our shot to move up. The group is doing really well with the weather hang. Rounds of gin rummy, kindles, and movies are keeping everyone occupied, as well as a quick wall building session to protect our bathroom tent. Someone mentioned working on content for the Denali calendar as well. Fingers and toes are crossed we get to go climbing tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and team, brought to you by Alice in Chains

(Previous blogs brought to you by Outkast and The Scorpions)

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Shovel Out Tents from New Snow

The team woke up to a foot of fresh snow this morning, which led to our activity of the morning. Shoveling. Once that was out of the way, the team transitioned to game time. A variety of games and a few lucky beginners carried us through the afternoon. Some cheesecake for dessert has the team powered up hoping for better weather tomorrow. We're seeing the winds of change and feel positive about the next couple days!

RMI Guides Matias, Chase, Pete, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Marc

I Hope you’re having a good day! And that conditions r improving. We are so proud of you! Good luck today to u & ur whole team!
Nicole

Posted by: Nicole gabai on 5/25/2021 at 11:37 am

marc - wishing you good weather to complete your mission.  the pix are amazing.  best wishes to everyone! olga

Posted by: Olga on 5/24/2021 at 10:48 am

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