Entries By mike king
Today the seminar team had a fine time learning and drilling crevasse rescue techniques. Colder today than the previous few, we bundled up and traveled a few minutes from camp to a nice staging area above a deep blue hole. The team first drilled pulling a snow-filled duffel out before practicing with a live load. Everyone got the opportunity to experience the inside of a crevasse as well as pulling a teammate out of one. Clouds are starting to build over Foraker as a southwest flow moves it's way into our area and by late morning, silence filled the arena that hummed with the activity of planes flying into Basecamp. Before dinner we rigged our sleds and packed some gear for our anticipated move from BC and up the Kahiltna glacier tomorrow. An early and quiet goodnight from the expedition skills seminar.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
On The Map
Wednesday, May 4, 2016 - 10:29 p.m PDT
Today the team went out to stretch their legs and explore the various corners of the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We left camp early in the cold, biting air of morning and made our way up to a basin on the north side of the Radio Tower. Recent snow made for a lot of trail breaking to gain the north ridge. After crossing the bergschrund, we found the ridge to be very steep, firm underfoot, and very exposed. Our options were limited with the gear we had and the nature of the potential consequences. So we made the summit ridge our high point and descended to set up some fixed line work and anchor building. The team is in good spirits, eager to learn, and attentive to their well being. Tomorrow we explore the inside of a crevasse to see how deep the rabbit hole really goes.
RMI Guides Leon Davis and Mike King
On The Map
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Tuesday, May 3, 2016 - 9:31 p.m.
This morning we woke up to a few inches of light snow and little visibility. Our goal today was to fortify camp with walls cut from snow and our team worked fast together. By early afternoon the sun cast a blue light down glacier and the north buttress of Hunter made itself present with its steep rock and ice. The team finished by 1300 and relaxed for a short while under a warm sun. Before dinner we sat together to review some knots and hitches and prepare for a climb up Radio Tower tomorrow morning. Every once in a while I catch the team standing quietly, shovels in hand, pausing to take in the surrounding splendor before returning to their work. All is very well here in our snowy castle.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
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Monday, May 2, 2016 - 10:03 p.m.
Greetings Blog Followers!
Our first Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition is doing fine at Kahiltna Base Camp! Our morning in Talkeetna, AK was anything but slow and leisurely as we performed many logistic moves in order to get ahead of the changing weather forecast. We made it onto K2 Aviation's Otters by noon and made camp quickly in great weather. Despite being thrust into action on a compressed time schedule, the team worked very well together displaying great work ethic and sense if humor. It's 9:00 p.m and we are all warm and happy in tents looking forward to fortifying camp tomorrow.
Good night friends and family from the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier; we'll check in again tomorrow.
RMI Guides Leon Davis and Mike King
On The Map
This is Mike and team checking in after our delicious asado dinner cooked by the mule drivers. We had an eight-hour hike from Base Camp and some of our feet faired better then others. Regardless, everyone is excited to be in Mendoza tomorrow night. This has been a great group of climbers and while we didn't stand on top of Aconcagua, the team learned a lot and had fun doing so.
RMI Guide Mike King
This is Mike and the Team. We are at Base Camp feeling good after a long day carrying down our equipment from 18,000' to 13,800'. We will start our descent to the road tomorrow, which will entail 20 miles and culminate in a delicious Argentinean asado dinner. The weather continues to plague teams and we are thankful for our time up high.
RMI Guide Mike King
This is Mike with the Team at 18,000ft. Today we woke up and started towards high camp at 19,600ft. We carried our summit kits with the intention of going as far on the summit route as the weather would allow. Today was to be the last clear day for the next week and the winds were forecasted to be slowing down to 30mph by day's end.
We had an amazing sunrise across the snow covered Andes. Alpenglow on the Polish Glacier and Aconcagua's massive shadow to our West. The wind was in our face all morning, requiring the Team to be layered up and persistent with each foot placement.
Due to high winds and extreme cold we turned around at 20,500ft. We are all back in camp safely and feeling good about making an honest crack at the summit from our camp at 18,000ft.
Tomorrow we will descend to base camp and begin our walk out of the Park. The last few weeks have been a great learning experience for what expedition life is like in the big mountains.
Thanks for following along and we will check in daily until we reach pavement on Monday.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Jeff & Mere,
Happy New Year! Sorry that Mother Nature had other plans, but I’m sure this has been another amazing adventure.
Love,
Mary & Peter
Posted by: Mary & Peter on 1/2/2016 at 6:50 am
Meredith & Jeff; what an exciting last day, you gave it your best.
Happy New Year,
Love,
Dad
Posted by: Gregg Mercer on 1/1/2016 at 1:05 pm
Today we woke to slightly milder winds that allowed us to breakdown our camp at 16,400ft and move Guanaco 3 camp, our second camp at 18,000' on Aconcagua. All teams above Base Camp are trying to figure if the current weather system will allow for a summit bid. The Team has been updated on the weather pattern that is moving onto the mountain.
From the beginning of the expedition the guides have been stressing taking care of daily items that are in our control like hydration, rest, proper clothing choices and breathing, a lot. At the same time this expedition has been marked by items we have no control over, for example, tall penitentes to navigate, hot temperatures, wind and a deteriorating weather pattern.
We will continue to evaluate our options, in the meantime, It's New Years Eve on Aconcagua. We'll miss the party at base camp, but not the pan flute chiming in during the porter drum circle until 4am.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Mike, praying you get to stand on the top! All good things in 2016! Love from all the Isaacsons
Posted by: Carol Isaacson on 1/1/2016 at 9:54 am
Happy New Year Michael! Keeping my fingers crossed the weather gets better. Stay strong! Thinking of you everyday . Love, Mom
Posted by: Lisa Hughes on 1/1/2016 at 5:40 am
This is RMI Guide Mike King checking in checking in from 16,400 feet on Aconcagua. Today is our rest day and we are definitely resting in our tents. The winds picked up around dinner last night and have not stopped shaking our tents. The team reported good sleep/rest after our carry to Chopper Camp yesterday and everyone is acclimating well. We are hunkered down for the day; reading and napping. There is rumor of a snack food social in one of the tents around lunch time, I might have to crash that party.
We will keep checking the weather today. Our goal is to move up to Chopper Camp tomorrow during lower winds and then play the waiting game for a summit bid.
The RMI office sent the blog comments to us and everyone enjoyed hearing them read during breakfast yesterday. Thank you for following along and supporting us! Keep it up!
RMI Guide Mike King and Team
On The Map
Hey Jeff and Meredith! Hope you are having a great climb and managing to stay warm. The views are amazing. Can’t wait to hear all about it…Ruby and Wayne :)
Posted by: ruby on 12/31/2015 at 10:29 am
Wishing John Hughes and the entire climbing team a very happy, healthy and high-altitude 2016!
Posted by: Barbara on 12/31/2015 at 10:20 am
Call it Camp 2 while your on the mountain and you will get a curious look from the locals, but call it Chopper Camp or Guanaco 3 and they will smile. The team woke this morning and carried food and equipment to Guanaco 3 (our Camp 2). Some of our legs felt a bit heavy from the move yesterday but we made it.
As we turned the corner at Ameghino Col the winds increased and we took in stellar views of La Mano, Mercedario and other 6000 m. peaks in the San Juan Province.
We are back in Camp 1 looking forward to a rest day on Wednesday. Weather and high winds are rolling in, good night from our cozy tents at 16,400 ft.
RMI Guide Mike King and team
On The Map
Dr. Ludwig and group, Have a wonderful time on your hike. Hope to see lots of pictures of the breath taking view you will have.
Posted by: Michelle on 12/31/2015 at 10:39 am
Thank you for the update. I believe our son, Luke is with this team.
Posted by: Catherine on 12/29/2015 at 6:16 pm
So proud of you Justin Nezda. Sounds like you’re getting the complete cold Alaska experience. Sending you good thoughts and wish you luck on the upcoming challenges. Can’t wait to hear all about when you come home. Love you, Erin
Posted by: Erin on 5/6/2016 at 8:56 am
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