Entries By sam marjerison
Five-day Kautz climb led by RMI Gudie Sam Marjerison turned around shortly after heading up into the ice chute after snow and ice conditions proved to be inadequate to climb. The recent snow and wind has continued to affect the Ingraham Direct route, and the Kautz is seeing a similar result, as well. The team will return to Ashford this afternoon.
Nice work team!
Thursday, 5/28 6 PM PST
All is well up here! Turned at 8100’ and we had a great day of skiing the Roosevelt Glacier instead! Great temps and good skiing concluded the day.
-RMI Guide Sam Marjerison
Today, we got an early start and walked over to the base of the Root Canal Glacier and climbed a small 800’ gully adjacent to the West Ridge of the Moose’s Tooth. We had expansive views of Denali, Mount Barille, Dickey, Bradley, Wake and Peak 11,300’. Warm temperatures forced us down early and we enjoyed an afternoon of avalanche viewing across the East Faces of Dickey and Bradley.
We are back at camp and enjoying another overcast night with hopes to fly out of the Range tomorrow!
RMI Guide Sam Marjerison
New Post Alerts:
Ruth Glacier Seminar May 2, 2025
Monday, May 11, 2026 - 10:13 pm PT
Today, we bring you a poem from the team:
Snow always falling
It never stops
Saw the sun for five minutes
We nearly blew our tops
Then yet again,
The snow returned
What will tomorrow bring?
Soon we will learn…
RMI Guide Sam Marjerison
New Post Alerts:
Ruth Glacier Seminar May 2, 2025
Today we launched for 747 Pass but were turned back halfway through our day due to 2-3ft of trail breaking. We are now back at camp and battening down the hatches for another round of weather! We’ve had the great pleasure of passing time with plenty of card games and a delicious dinner of Pad Thai. Tomorrow we plan to work on skills and wait until the weather breaks!
RMI Guide Sam Marjerison
New Post Alerts:
Ruth Glacier Seminar May 2, 2025
Posted by: Sam Marjerison
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Weather moved in overnight and we hunkered down and enjoyed a mellow breakfast this morning. After the storm lifted and precipitation slowed to a halt, we went for a walk towards 747 pass to put in a track and check out conditions. The trail breaking was deep and after a few miles we turned back and had a restful afternoon in camp.
We enjoyed a wonderful evening filled with ramen and card games. Now, we patiently wait for an opportunity to begin climbing on Mount Dickey in the coming days!
RMI Guide Sam Marjerison & Team
New Post Alerts:
Ruth Glacier Seminar May 2, 2025
Saturday, May 9, 2026 - 12:15 am PT
Today started slow, similar to our previous days in Talkeetna. We walked the rainy streets, drank copious amounts of coffee and waited patiently. By mid afternoon, we were ready for a nap! Suddenly, the clouds parted and we were greeted with the first blue skies of the trip. We loaded the planes and took off from Talkeetna towards the Ruth Glacier.
We flew past rivers beginning to thaw after the long Alaskan winter and our planes shadow danced below against the rocky moraine covered with fresh snow. After circling the massive East Face of Mount Dickey, we landed and made quick work of setting up camp.
After a delicious dinner, we lingered outside and enjoyed a perfect sunset.
The skies continue to be clear and blue in the midnight sun and we are excited for tomorrow!
RMI Guide Sam Marjerison
Posted by: Sam Marjerison
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
5-8-2026 4:09pm PDT
Sam and team have been able to Fly onto the Glacier. earlier today. Keep an eye out for posts fromt the Ruth Glacier!
Today was another rainy and overcast day in Talkeetna. After another great breakfast, we shifted our focus to skills at the K2 Aviation hangar. We covered friction hitches, anchor construction and sled rigging before we sat down for a round table discussion on weather and mapping! Tomorrow, we wait and cross our fingers for the skies to clear and the opportunity to fly!
RMI Guide Sam Marjerison
New Post Alerts:
Ruth Glacier Seminar May 2, 2025
Wednesday, May 6, 2026
Today started early with breakfast sandwiches and coffee from Conscious Coffee under rainy skies. With an increase in precipitation throughout the day, we focused our attention on a thorough gear check, a refresher on knots and hitches and a weigh in with all our kit at the K2 Aviation hanger. To cap off our skills day, we enjoyed a great meal at Latitude 62. Tomorrow, we hope to fly and are going to bed dreaming of sunny skies and low wind!
Tuesday, May 5, 2026
Today we met the team in Anchorage and drove to Talkeetna, excited for the next ten days of climbing together. After laying out our gear in the K2 Aviation hangar, we had a wonderful dinner at Mountain High Pizza. Glasses were clinked and food was eaten. Tomorrow, we plan to organize, sort and pack our gear in the morning before a "hopefully" quick takeoff out of Talkeetna and onto the Ruth Glacier.
Posted by: Sam Marjerison, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
Saturday, May 2, 2026 - 9:41 pm PT
We awoke to a wonderful sunrise and some unsettled weather that brought some rain and clouds in the morning. After quick breakfast, we donned skins and packed our bags for a summit attempt of Mount Baker. As we skinned up the glacier, the winds began to die and the clouds parted at approximately 10am. By the time we summited the snow was soft, the skies were clear and the winds were minimal. We enjoyed 5,000’ of perfect skiing straight back to camp. Tomorrow we plan to descend and celebrate a great program back in Sedro.
RMI Guide Sam Marjerison
Friday, May 1, 2026
Today started bright and early at 7am in Sedro-Woolley, where we met the team, double checked our kits and made a few last minute stops for food before driving up to the trailhead. After an hour of walking through the woods, we reached the snowline and began skinning up to the Easton Glacier. Breaks along the way gave us views of Mount Shuksan, Glacier Peak and the Picket Range. After setting up camp we enjoyed a great sunset and dinner. Tomorrow, we plan to ski from the summit of Mount Baker before descending back to camp.
