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Entries By tatum whatford


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Return to Airstrip Ready for Return Flight

Thursday, June 1, 2023 - 8:25 am PT

We made it to base camp! We had a smooth, though sticking with the theme of the trip, pretty white walk out to Base camp. We got in in the early afternoon relieved to be done pulling our sleds and shouldering heavy packs. The clouds didn't promise much for flying out, but we stayed hopeful and lounged on our packs and sleds. We had left ourselves some celebratory materials and we enjoyed those. A few clearing trends and blue skies gave us hope a few times but by 8pm we accepted that we would have another night in tents and set then up, made a last dinner of burritos, and crawled back into sleeping bags. We are happy to have done our part now. No more packs or sleds, just waiting for weather to cooperate. And it is so much warmer, and easier to breathe down here! 

Hopefully weather let's us fly off soon!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

So relieved you are on the final leg.  Congratulations, Brian and team!

Posted by: Lettie Kirk Goltry on 6/1/2023 at 11:13 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team On Descent to Airstrip

Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 1:28 am PT

Denali's 17,000' Camp is a necessary evil. It's not particularly pleasant to exist there, even when it's nice out. With our objective secured yesterday, we were all ready to get out of that high and forlorne place. We set out today to get as far from 17,000' Camp as we could. We descended the West Buttress, down the fixed lines to 14,000' Camp. After some socializing with the other teams at 14,000'. We set our goal again with the intention of getting to 11,000ft. It has been snowing quite a bit since we passed these locations. There was a good boot track in, but there was well over 12 inches of new snow blanketing the Polo Field and Windy Corner. We'll wake up early and rally to the airstrip with the hope that we can fly first thing tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Snow camping is fun, especially at altitude, but all anyone can talk about is beer and burgers, and it is time for a shower and feeling warm once again.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Check in After Summit

Tuesday, May 30, 2023 - 8:26 am PT

We finally got everything to come together. It was calm and quiet in the morning and we got out of camp early, ahead of everyone else. The Autobahn had filled in and took some work and time to put a track in, across to Denali Pass. It was shady and cold, but the team worked well. At Denali Pass, we stepped into the sun and also a touch of wind - just a light breeze. It kept things cold and we continued to work up. At points we would lose the wind and it would suddenly turn so hot, then back to cold. We played that game to the Football Field, and then up the summit ridge. By midafternoon we were standing on the summit of Denali! The summit was pretty warm and we got some photos before turning against traffic and the rest of the mountain. We retraced our steps to camp and fell into bed, happy to have the first part of the mission accomplished. Now we will set our sights lower on getting to thicker air and the airstrip.

Congrats to all the climbers!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Why do when you can overdo? We love you Chris!

Posted by: Shan on 5/30/2023 at 3:43 pm

Congratulations Adam! Have a safe trip down everyone see ya soon!

Posted by: Matt & Erica Warren on 5/30/2023 at 2:10 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Reach Denali Summit!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer checked in from the summit of Denali at 5:50 pm PT on Monday, May 29th.  The team returned to their high camp at 17,000' around 1 am PT.

Congratulations to the May 9th Denali Expedition!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Brian….So proud of you and your team!  You did it!!  It will be so much fun to hear all about it.  Be safe!

Posted by: Marilyn Goltry on 5/30/2023 at 6:21 pm

Amazing!!!
Now please come back safely!

Posted by: Lyds on 5/30/2023 at 3:08 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Halt Summit Attempt Due to Weather

Sunday, May 28, 2023 - 6:42 pm PT

Today didn't work out exactly as planned. When we got up it was calm as promised, but a complete white out in camp. Snow was falling lightly, straight down. We dragged our feet to see how it would evolve. As the sun came up, the clouds did push up a bit, and with some sight it was clear the wind was moving strong up high. Within a few hours, that wind made it to camp as well. So we spent the day in the tents dodging intermittent snow showers and wind gusts.

We are hoping that tomorrow brings us better summit weather and that Mother Denali let's us pass.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Good luck to you and the team!

Posted by: Marilyn Goltry on 5/29/2023 at 3:53 pm


Denali: Van Deventer and Team build camp at 17k

May 27, 2023 7:28PM PT

Things were exactly as we hoped this morning, calm, and blue above.

We woke earlier than most, and had our chores taken care of quickly to get out of camp.

We were roughly the second team out, which turned out to be the right move as it seemed like nearly everyone at 14 headed to the fixed lines today. From the top, we could see a near to continuous line that stretched back to 14.

We made good time and rolled into camp at 17 around 4pm. Then started the laborious work of building camp. It's hard to do anything up here quickly - walk, shovel, stand up too fast, so it took some time, but we are now settled in - working on melting snow for water and hoping that tomorrow gives us our summit shot.

Pete, Henry, Tatum and Team

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Go Bailey! Hope the weather window is good and that you get an amazing summit push! Stay safe!

Posted by: Cecilie on 5/28/2023 at 9:29 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Hang at 14,000’ Camp

Thursday 5/25/2023 10:00pm PDT

Another good rest/ weather day for us today. The snow, clouds, and breeze were in and out and it was an obvious day to sit. 14,000’ Camp on Denali is turning into a small city as more and more teams move up and run into the same weather waiting game. When we first moved up there were only a handful of scattered camps. Now 14,000’ Camp is continuous, and you can meander around, walking down alleys between snow walls.The team took on a variety of tacks to stay entertained. One intrepid member measured the perimeter of camp to be a quarter mile and did a 5k, jogging some of it. A few members even joined in at points. Others wandered around and chatted with other RMI Expedition Teams. And one member has now read the ingredient list of all their snack food!

Tomorrow looks to be more of the same and already the team has made plans to build an igloo, and perhaps more - the site plan is still being finalized. The 14,000’ Camp hang continues

RMI Guides Pete, Henry, Tatum & Team

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest and Wait at 14,000’ Camp

Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 11:14 pm PT

It was a good day for us to sit. Yesterday's strong effort meant everyone slept well, and long. We got up late, enjoyed our last bagels and smoked salmon, told stories, and generally enjoyed the rest day. Snow and clouds intermittently invaded camp, with some breaks of brilliantly strong sunshine. For a bit of movement and boredom cure, we built a bunch of walls to deflect the wind that may come tomorrow. Tomorrow, we will rest again, as the forecast calls for winds at 17,000' to elevate significantly tomorrow. We'll see how this weather system plays out, and it's good comfort for us to know that all of our pieces are in place and when the window opens, we'll be ready.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go get that summit Adam! Can’t wait to hear about the whole adventure when you get home and hope to see you front and center in the picture at summit! Good luck everyone!

Posted by: Matt & Erica Warren on 5/25/2023 at 6:46 pm

Brian,
I’ve been following the daily updates with great interest.  Patience appears to be huge part of a climbers’ requirements.  Praying for your team safety and clear weather for your summit push.
Best Regards
Bruce

Posted by: Larabee Bruce on 5/25/2023 at 11:31 am


Denali Expeditions: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at 17,000 ft Camp

Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 9:00 am PT

The climbing along the West Buttress is some of the most fun and aesthetic of the whole Denali trip and we got a perfect day for it. We left early, with camp still in the shade and chilly. But we climbed out into the sun within the first hour. The fixed lines, which has been blue blue ice when we first got to 14,000' had pasted in with the last couple days of snow and there were nice steps kicked in for most of the way. We rolled over the top of the line onto the ridge to stunning views that extended forever. We could see trees from our perch (or at least green). We continued along the Buttress, picking our way through the airy terrain will above 14,000' Camp and the Peters Glacier on the other side. By afternoon, we walked into 17,000' Camp. Doing most anything at 17,000' is hard. You have to show down - how fast you walk, shovel, etc. We got a hole dug and left our goodies, then retraced our steps back to 14,000' Camp. The team did an incredible job and got the trip done in 10 hours. We were back in camp for dinner time. Things are set and now we wait for the weather to open a summit window.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Train and Prepare to Ascend Fixed Lines

Monday, May 22, 2023 - 10:11 pm PT

It was an incredibly pleasant day at 14,000'. It snowed lightly all night but when we woke up it was bluebird and calm. We took our time over breakfast (again) and started to wrap our heads around the schedule and logistics above here. We did an afternoon training session to prepare for the fixed lines and running belays of the West Buttress above, then retired for a warm and sunny siesta. The rest was part of the plan as we intend to head up the fixed lines and along the West Buttress tomorrow to put in a small cache and get familiar with the terrain. With that complete, the puzzle pieces that we have control over will be in place for our summit push.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy belated Birthday Juan! Hope you and the crew are safe and enjoying yourselves. Can’t wait to hear all about it.

Posted by: Mike Jenison on 5/23/2023 at 6:57 pm

Keep going Bailey!! Atlas has been shrugging.

Posted by: Stewart Beshears on 5/23/2023 at 5:40 pm

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