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Entries By tatum whatford

Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier: Burns and Team 100% to the Summit

We are happy to report that the entire team stood on top of Mt. Baker this morning. We had clear skies and spectacular views of Washington’s volcanoes to the south. The team climbed strong. We're on the descent and headed back to the trailhead.

RMI Guide Seth Burns and Team

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Down and Done!

Thursday, July 7, 2022 - 11:52 am PT

We are calling ourselves lucky.  Very lucky.  The clouds moved away long enough for the glacier surface to freeze up for our nighttime ramble down the lower Kahiltna.  We started walking down from 11,000 at 12:30 AM.  The midnight sun was beautiful on the peaks around us as we cruised down in the cool shadows.  The first hours, to the base of Ski Hill, were straightforward… then things got complicated.  Lots and lots of crevasse crossings.  But that is where the freeze helped immensely.  It also didn’t hurt that other teams preceded us, breaking into holes and showing us where not to walk.  In the end we made it through without any collapsed bridges.  It took about seven hours to get to the airstrip.  Half the team flew off in a K2 Otter just before 10 AM but before the plane could make it back for the other half, clouds rolled in.  They didn’t roll away until mid afternoon, at which point the Otter swooped in to get the job done.  We were the last team on Denali for the 2022 season… and then we were just a bunch more tourists in Talkeetna with funny tans.  The team had a celebratory dinner at Mile High Pizza Pie, and then a late night Cornhole tournament in the beer garden of the Fairview Inn.  A little live music and a nightcap (or two) put a finish on an excellent expedition.  Thanks for following. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Photos courtesy of Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to Jim Karmozyn and the entire team on a safe and successful climb and return.

Posted by: Ted Wioncek on 7/8/2022 at 12:17 pm

Woweeee!  So proud of you all!  What an awesome, incredible journey!  We thoroughly enjoyed following along.
Welcome back!

Diana and Tom

Posted by: Diana Weiss on 7/7/2022 at 3:24 pm

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Descend to 11,000ft for Short Rest

Tuesday, July 5, 2022 - 8:25 pm PT

We pulled out of 14,000' at 10:30 this morning.  Winds were still blowing up high, it certainly wouldn’t have been a summit day, but much of the low cloud had cleared out.  The couple of hours down around Windy Corner, across the Polo Field, down Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills were the usual insane sled rodeo.  The sleds don’t like being heavy or on a side hill and so they flip a lot and we all just try to keep smiling and pulling.  We set up camp -possibly our last- in early afternoon and dove in for naps.  We’ve just eaten dinner now and we’re napping once more.  The plan is to get up in three hours (at 10 PM) and to set off around midnight toward the airstrip on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna.  We’re hoping the surface of the lower glacier freezes up hard and that our timing is just right for taking advantage of that freeze.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Descend to 14,000ft Camp

Monday, July 4, 2022 - 9:46 pm PT

We woke to a calm but cloudy morning at 17,200'.  There was light snow falling -some of the first snowflakes we’ve had on this trip.  It wasn’t too hard to be out in it for packing though.  We got it all done and got walking at noon.  Many careful steps were taken along the crest of the West Buttress in the clouds.  We got a little surprise when we started down the fixed lines at 16,200. There was an actual squall with snow blowing in our faces as we delicately stepped down and across crevasses.  Things eased as we got to 14,000' at 3 PM and re-established camp.  We then had a quiet afternoon and evening of resting, relaxing and eating, with everybody making mention of how much easier life at 14,000' was compared to 17,000'. 

Tomorrow we’ll hope the clouds go elsewhere as we get down to 11,000' and get set for the big walk out the lower glacier. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Reach Summit!

Monday, July 4, 2022 - 1:50 a.m. PDT

Briefly…Because it is 12:38 a.m. at 17,200 ft…we did it! Fabulous climb to the top of North America. The day started out a little more windy than predicted, so we pushed our start back to 10:15 a.m., by which time thinks were looking more promising. We went back and forth all day between a little cool and a little hot. Luckily, when we hit the top at 6:30 p.m., it was calm and easy.  In fact we enjoyed it so much we spent 50 minutes on top! There was only one other team today and we will likely be some of the very last for the season. Beautiful views down into all the fascinating glaciers and valleys surrounding Denali. We picked our way carefully down, leaving the summit at 7:20 p.m. and arriving back at high camp at 11:00 p.m. Late night dinner and then crawling into sleeping bags for well earned rest. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to Jim Karmozyn and the entire team on reaching the summit!  I knew you could do it.

Posted by: Ted Wioncek on 7/7/2022 at 10:56 am

Congratulations to Yifei and the entire team! You’ve worked so hard for this and now you are literally on top of the world! Can’t wait to hear all the stories!

Posted by: VJ Ammar on 7/4/2022 at 7:36 pm

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Rest and Prepare for Summit Bid

Saturday, July 2, 2022 - 8:56 pm PT

It was a rest day, although slightly less restful for taking place at 17,200'.  Everything is a little harder up here.  We were lucky to have a nice sunny day (again) which made it easier to relax.  It was breezy from time to time, which was forecast.  We’re hoping the winds quiet down, in keeping with those forecasts, for our summit day tomorrow.  We ate and drank water and stared out at the amazing views.  We made last minute adjustments to our packs and the gear we’ll rely on tomorrow.  We talked strategy.  We looked up at the “autobahn” -the route from 17,000' to Denali Pass and tried to judge its difficulty.  After weeks of hard work to get in position, we are ready. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Journey to the Edge of the World

Thursday, June 30, 2022 11:25 pm PDT

Another beautiful day, but this was an easy one.  We just rested and solidified our acclimatization today.  And ate and ate and ate.  It was great to see Andy’s RMI team come back into the camp at 14,000 on their way lower.  We congratulated them and wished them a safe journey out. 

In between afternoon naps, the team roped up and walked to the “Edge of the World” overlooking the Kahiltna Glacier’s NE Fork.  Camp at 14,000 is in a broad and mostly flat basin, but at the edge, there is a fairly breathtaking view straight down… seemingly for miles.  The gang enjoyed watching clouds race up the face and catching glimpses of the Cassin and West Rib climbing routes.  Back at camp we had dinner in calm sunshine and prepared for the big move up to 17,200 ft.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry to 16,600’

Wednesday, June 29, 2022 - 10:32 pm PT

This was a big and beautiful day on Denali.  Sunny from start to finish with barely a puff of wind all day.  So we made good use of it.  We were up at 7 and out of camp by 8:50 in the morning shadows.  We powered on up the hills just out of camp that steepened to headwalls a few hours along.  The team did great in managing the fixed ropes on the steep ice leading to the crest of the West Buttress. We were at the top of the ropes by 12:15 PM where we took a short break looking out over about half the planet.  We proceeded up the ridge for some interesting climbing, putting our hands on clean granite while our crampons worked up firm snow.  At 16,600 ft -the base of “Washburn’s Thumb” we declared victory and dug a cache for the supplies we’d carried.  We made our way back down, slowly and carefully, reaching camp at 14,000' about 7 and a half hours after we’d departed.  Just in time for a pre-dinner nap.  The team was excited to hear of Andy Bond’s team tagging the top in perfect conditions today.  We look forward to seeing them back down at 14,000' tomorrow.  We’ll be resting and getting ready to move up to 17,000'  when we get the opportunity. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go team!
Diana and Tom

Posted by: Diana Weiss on 6/30/2022 at 9:27 am

Amazing progress everyone!

You are all AMAZING!

Posted by: Margaret Nolan on 6/30/2022 at 9:07 am

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Take Cheeky Rest Day

Tuesday, June 28, 2022 - 9:51 pm PT

We did our “back-carry” today.  Our cache above Windy Corner only took about twenty minutes to walk down to and an hour or so to walk back with.  So we got that done in the mid morning hours before the sun got too intense.  Much of this first full day at 14,200' was a rest day.  We did a short training session in the afternoon to review techniques we’ll use on the fixed ropes protecting the steep terrain between 15,000 and 16,200 ft.  The weather was even better today than yesterday… calm and sunny throughout.  Tomorrow we are hoping to carry supplies up onto the West Buttress. 


Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Aww, Jim!  You’re a keeper!  And Happy Anniversary! 
We daily are following you and your team’s awesome adventure!
Keep up the good work!

Diana and Tom

Posted by: Diana Weiss on 6/29/2022 at 10:08 pm

Hey, Jim. Happy Anniversary to you, almost on top of the world!!!  So proud of your accomplishments!  You made Sharon’s day!!!  Love, your sister!

Posted by: Deborah Karmozyn on 6/29/2022 at 3:45 pm

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Living Large at 14,000’ Camp

Monday, June 27, 2022 - 10:52 pm PT

This was a fine day of climbing.  We were up at 5 AM and eating, packing and getting ready for almost three hours.  We pulled out of 11,000 at 7:50 AM.  There were steady breezes but it wasn’t particularly cold as we went up Motorcycle and Squirrel Hills in the shadows.  It was blue sky overhead today, so it was definitely one of the nicer days we’ve had (though none have been bad).   Sitting in the sunshine at Windy Corner, we could clearly see the Tordrillo Mountains anchoring the Alaska Range to the Southwest.  Most eyes were on Mount Foraker though as it seems to get bigger every time we see it.  We were around the corner without any difficulties and then out of the wind as we made our way up into Genet Basin.  We pulled into the camp at 14,200 ft to join Andy Bond’s RMI team (who are several days ahead of us) and practically all the other teams on the mountain.  We’d made it up in five and a half not too hard hours.  Despite the fact that we were working at altitude to build a camp, conditions were quite calm and easy, so the work wasn’t too bad.  We climbed into tents to hide from the sun and took our customary afternoon naps.  The team finished dinner (mac and cheese) which is always a good sign.  Tomorrow is an easier day -by design- just a short walk down to pick up our food and fuel above Windy Corner. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Cheering you on and enjoying your adventures!!!!  Kudos to all of you, and Jim, for your perseverance and energy!

Posted by: Deborah Karmozyn on 6/29/2022 at 6:40 am

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