Hey everybody this is Billy checking in from 17,000’ on Mt. McKinley or Denali.
Another day of high winds has kept us pinned down at high camp. We were hoping the forecasted 20 mph summit winds were going to be a reality today but unfortunately they were not. So we were stuck in camp, hanging out and eating snack food.
Tomorrow’s forecast is again for more good weather so wish us luck that it actually comes to fruition. If it does we’ll be taking a crack at the summit tomorrow. I will check in with you guys later.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
on pins and needles waiting to see if you guys summit today! i’m hanging out with connolly tonight in order to have my own little adventure. i miss you much! love you- janie
Mike Walter's team reached the summit of Mt. McKinley (20,320') on Wednesday, May 25th. Everyone was happy and healthy upon returning to 17,000' camp for some much needed rest.
The entire party reached the summit after moving to high camp at 17,000' on Tuesday. The team spent several days at 14,000' waiting for better weather to move to high camp and their patience paid off. They will begin their descent today and hope to be back at the Kahiltna Glacier on Friday.
Congratulations to Kenneth, Jeff, David, Tomasz, Mike & Geoff!
Bathrooms can be an under appreciated element in our daily routine. But in the mountains, the basic elements of living are sometimes thrust to the forefront of our attention. Consider the act of performing our morning constitutional in a foreign and sometimes rather hostile environment and you can see why folks might be willing to go the extra mile to fashion a structure that offers room to indulge their sense of privacy, not to mention afford some measure of protection from the elements. Well, after another great day of climbing where we reached camp at 14,200' in good form and nice conditions, this remarkable team went to work not only setting up tents, but getting all the very important other tasks accomplished, like digging in and setting up the Posh tent where we cook, eat and commune. And also constructing the 'loo'. Perhaps we went overboard, but this loo is not only shelter from the wind, but has a roof overhead to offer the user an even higher degree of comfort. All constructed of ice and snow, and of course, engineered to the highest of standards with the use of snow saws and shovels.
So there you have a little vignette of life in the mountains. Yes, your loved ones are doing quite well, perhaps just not always doing what you might think they're doing.
All for now from 14,200'.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Our day began well as we enjoyed the news of Mike Walter and team reaching the summit the evening before and looked forward to an easy day getting our cache just a few hundred feet below camp. In fact, just hours ago, Mike, Geoff and the crew passed through 14 camp where we cooked up bacon quessadillas for them. They are now at 11,000' camp where they'll rest a bit before making their way to the airstrip to catch the next flight back to burgers, beer and of course, family.
The sad part of the day came as some of us lighter sleepers heard helicopter activity in the early morning hours around 3:00 am. This gave rise to concern, but we knew all of our RMI teams were safely back at 17,200'. Tragically, an accident had befallen a team of two on their descent from the summit. One always wonders why and how these things occur. And of course, concern for our loved ones can shoot through the roof as our imaginations get the best of us. I was informed of the accident by the lead climbing ranger as we were once again reinforcing our camp by building walls against the possibility of tent ripping winds. I immediately gathered the team to share the bad news, and to reaffirm our commitment to returning home safe and sound. Of course somber news like this makes us reflective, but it is also contructive in reminding all of us on the mountain of the care each of us needs to practice as we pursue our goals. I, for one, plan on coming home in a week or two, after doing my very best to get a group of climbers who are quickly becoming friends, to the summit of this mountain.
So, we carry on in our quest to climb Denali. Tomorrow finds us climbing up the famous headwall fixed with ropes and finally getting on to this routes namesake, the West Buttress. By far, the most beautiful part of the mountain.
Check in tomorrow to see how we did!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
We cant wait to hear from you. Please, be smart, take your time, and keep it safe! Love you very much!
Posted by: Marina on 5/27/2011 at 9:16 pm
HW - I am sorry to hear about the latest accidents on the mountain. As Guide Okita wrote in his dispatch, it is also a reminder of how careful one needs to be climbing Denali. You have trained so hard for this, so I just ask you to take care of yourself and each other. I bought BB some new summer clothes and hair clips today and she was so happy. Stay healthy and strong! Love -F
Hey, this is Solveig checking in for Billy, Mike, Tim and Drew from Mt. McKinley. Yesterday we packed up camp at 14,000’ and had a great move to our high camp at 17,300 feet. The first part of the move we enjoyed calm winds and warm sunshine. It was a lot of fun to be climbing in such great conditions. However, about two-thirds of the way up to high camp we were hit by 30 -45 mile per hour winds which persisted all the way into camp. There were a lot of teams camped at 17,000’ when we arrived but we found an area to build our camp and spent the next three hours digging ten platforms and building walls to protect our tents. One particularly strong gust knocked over our completed wall.
We began cooking dinner and settling in and the winds subsided. We enjoyed a calm evening inside the protection of our tents and surrounding sturdy walls.
Today we are eating and resting and enjoying light winds and good weather.
Tim wanted to wish his mom a “Happy Birthday”.
RMI Guide Solveig Garhart
Sounds like a good day, exhausting but good! Hope you can all rest.
We are thinking of you and looking forward to hearing all about it. Enjoy!!
Love, Mom
Posted by: Shirl on 5/26/2011 at 6:56 pm
Solveig and Team- Great to hear you are at high camp enjoy the rest!! Wish I was with you! Love Dad
We have all arrived safely in Talkeetna and have settled in to our rooms in the Talkeetna motel. The team spent the evening telling stories and getting to know each other a little better. Since most of the team are already friends and have climbed together on other mountains it was mostly the guides that needed to get caught up with the back stories and inside jokes.
We will spend Wednesday checking in with the National Park Service Rangers, doing final gear checks, packing and enjoying the sunshine here in town. The weather forecast is promising for flying to the glacier tomorrow first thing on Thursday. We will check in again tomorrow as our adventure on Mt. McKinley begins.
.
Cheers from the whole team;
Andy, Ian, James, Tim, Steve, Mike, Pete and Walt
Hello from Mt. McKinley,
Awakening to perfect skies and no wind provided a great start to our carry to 13,500' today. The team rose to the challenge of the steeper terrain and climbed well. With that done, we just need another reasonable day to move camp to 14,200' from which the summit is tantalizingly close.
But of course, there is still so much yet to do before we can be thinking of that.
For now, an afternoon of rest after getting back and a hearty meal of mac and cheese with loads of bacon should get us fueled up for our big move in the morning.
I think everyone is feeling good about the day to come. I know I am.
Until next time, at 14,200', with any luck.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
We made it to high camp yesterday in hopes of a summit attempt today. The winds did not cooperate but tomorrow's forecast is looking good.
Please send good weather vibes our way! The team is doing great and ready for their summit attempt.
We will check in tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Our day began with more unsettled weather, but seeing that we had a short day in store for us, we got an early start on retrieving our cache from 9,600' and were back up to camp by 12:30. And that's when the weather finally broke in earnest, greeting us with windless, sunny conditions. Finally!
We took great advantage of an afternoon with little to do and relaxed for a few hours. Later, we did get a short training session in where Leon and Maile refreshed our cramponing and ice axe arrest skills. This in preparation for our big carry up to 13,500', where the slopes steepen appreciably and the use of crampons and ice axes are essential. Everybody is ready for the challenging day and excited to start climbing.
We were also psyched upon hearing that Mike Walters and his group had finally made it to 17,200' camp. Well, I too better get some rest for tomorrow's climb.
Goodnight from 11,200'.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
We finally saw a break in the weather today and took advantage by caching high on the West Buttress! Today's trip up the fixed lines was undoubtedly the most pleasant weather I have ever seen up here. Our team moved smoothly and efficiently all day in the midst of a throng of other climbers that had backed up at 14 over the past week of bad weather. If the good weather holds (it's supposed to) we're heading up to high camp tomorrow at 17k. The team is tired but will recover tonight for tomorrow's big move!
Ciao,
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Solveig Garhart, and the gang
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on pins and needles waiting to see if you guys summit today! i’m hanging out with connolly tonight in order to have my own little adventure. i miss you much! love you- janie
Posted by: Janie on 5/27/2011 at 9:44 am
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