Getting to 11,200' camp today came easily as we sported some very reasonable pack loads, having left a majority of our food and fuel at 9600', which we'll be picking up tomorrow morning. To make things even better, we were able to walk into a camp that some folks had left, leaving us free of the tiresome chore of building camp from scratch.
I guess the day started out on a good note with a special breakfast of toasted bagels, cream cheese and smoked salmon. Although the weather started off snowy and cloudy, as we approached the corner leading to 11,000', the sun came out and things cleared allowing us to enjoy the incredible vistas around us. Although the weather up higher on the mountain has apparently been rather unwelcoming, we have been doing OK.
We're looking forward to another fairly easy day tomorrow before we don the crampons for our carry to 13,500' in a couple of days.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Wow, Steve - incredible! The entire S&H team, headed by your loving spouse, is rooting for your successful (almost effortless) summit, praying for you guys every step of the way and is awed by you guys! Be safe and keep us posted - Cheers, Wendy
Posted by: wendy st charles on 5/23/2011 at 1:59 pm
Wulp, here we are. Day three pinned down at 14,200' by winds up high on the buttress. Last night we weathered gusts in excess of 55mph but it hasn't trampled our spirits. The forecast is calling for a significant calming trend that looks like it might be our window for a summit attempt later this week. Anyhow, we've been enjoying the sun and are passing the day grazing in our tents. Tomorrow will certainly see some activity with the improving weather; most likely a carry to stock our high camp with some food and fuel. Wish us luck!
Signing off,
Hope the weather improves and you can keep climbing.
Drew, Delta misses you and ate Dad’s steak this week. She is clever. She pulled the steak out of the pyrex dish w/out even knocking it over. Poor Dad ended up w/ knockworst for dinner that had been in the freezer for 8 weeks. She is getting plenty of walks. Take care and enjoy!! Love you.
Posted by: Shirl on 5/23/2011 at 4:15 am
Michael, the weather is turning sunny and warm here at home, hopefully it is for you and your team as well! We are anxiously awaiting news that you have reached the summit! Cavin says hi! Love you!
Well, the weather through us another curve ball. We were all set to move to high camp this morning, but we had 50 mph wind last night, along with snow. I was up at 5:30 this morning, checking the weather, and it was still blowing ~50mph up on the ridge. We were all up early, and had breakfast, in preparation to break camp. But the winds have been persistently high all day; and we're still waiting to move up. The good news is that the latest weather update has light winds forecast for this coming week. We're optimistic and hope to move to high camp tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
You must be so happy the weather is cooperating, you guys deserve your chance to summit. Be careful and remember to leave enough for the way down! We want you home safe and sound. Your family eagerly awaits you….Megan
The weather cooperated today allowing us to finally take in the incredible views to be had on the Kahiltna glacier. Which was nice given that we opted to make a single carry up to our camp at 9600', and at least the views helped distract us from carrying loads that were heavy beyond belief. But we all made it to camp by mid afternoon, appreciative of the fact that this was to be our last single carry for the trip. From here on, we'll be making double carries, that is, making two trips to every camp we establish and carrying only half our loads at a time.
Tomorrow we'll be moving up to 11,200' and establishing camp there, but we'll leave a fair amount of our food, fuel and assorted other personal equipment not needed for the next couple of days here at 9,600'. We'll pick this gear up the day after tomorrow. This will allow us to spend longer acclimatizing at 11,200' in preparation for our move later in the week to 14,200' camp.
Leon, Maile and I were impressed by the group yet again as they took to the job of getting camp set up like pros. And this after a grueling day's climb. What a great team.
We are all looking forward to getting up to 11,200' tomorrow!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Sounds like things are going well. Will keep my fingers crossed that the wind will die down. Lindo made it!!!! isn’t that great… Be safe and have fun xoxo mom
This is Solveig and Billy checking in for our team here at Camp 4. This morning we awoke to improving conditions but still not good enough to make our carry up the fixed lines. We have been enjoying sunny skies and light winds down here in camp. Social hour began after breakfast and we've spent the better part of the day getting to know our neighbors here in camp. We also spent some time getting rigged up and practicing for the fixed lines and running belays.
We hope the night will bring decreasing winds and we will be able to head uphill tomorrow.
RMI Guides Solveig Garhart and Billy Nugent
We're still at Camp 4 waiting for the winds to subside up high. The weather is pleasant here at camp. The forecast looks promising for us: summit winds decreasing to 30 mph by tomorrow. Hopefully we can move up to high camp tomorrow and be in place to make a summit bid the next day, or soon thereafter.
Everybody is doing well and we're all eager for the opportunity to climb.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Hey Ken, Glad to hear that the wind is subsiding. We hope that you are doing well. All is going well here. The restaurant has been busy but Rick, James, Starsha and Britt are doing a great job. Met with Jim today about painting. Eric is coming to help him. Ally is great but is missing you. Take Care..climb safely, enjoy the journey…Love Cathy & Ally
Hey, this is Alaska Mountaineering Seminar checking in. Last night we went to bed under increasing wind and snow. This morning we woke up to continued snow and wind and whiteout conditions.... The sun finally peered through this evening giving us a gorgeous last sunset for our time here on the Kahiltna Glacier. Tomorrow morning will be getting our flight back into Talkeetna after a great week here in the Alaska Range. Take care.
Jason Thompson checks in for their last night on the Kahiltna Glacier
This is Solveig checking in from Camp 4 @ 14,200'.
Today our team is enjoying a rest day, which nicely corresponds with a weather day. The wind has been blowing strongly and we have received nearly a foot of new snow in camp since last night. This afternoon we saw a few sun breaks but still the wind continues! We are keeping busy with ipods, books, and sport eating (not because you need to, but because it's fun!).
Yesterday the team constructed a cook shelter surrounded by high wind walls of snow blocks. We have been enjoying eating meals and taking a break from the confines of our tents in our plush livingroom/kitchen! The forecast looks like continued winds and snow through the weekend, so most likely more resting is in our future. Maybe tomorrow we will constuct a tunnel to Mike (Walter) and the other RMI team's camp!
Hello to all our friends and family back home, and we'll check in again tomorrow!
RMI Guide Solveig Garhart
A few inches of snow fell overnight, along with strong winds here at Camp 4; today is more of the same. Sounds like back at Camp 3 they got two feet of snow last night.
We're patiently waiting for a break in the weather. In the meantime, there's lots of reading, playing cards, eating and sleeping to pass the time. We're still doing pretty well with food and fuel supplies up here. And, as importantly, everyone's patience is hanging in there.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Looks like Monday might bring a window for ya’ll!
National Weather Service is saying winds diminishing.
Lets all hope that works out.
Go team!!
Posted by: David Hampton on 5/21/2011 at 11:34 am
Hi Ken,
It is still raining here. I can’t wait to see the sun. I won’t have to worry about turn on the sprinkler system. Ally and I had pedicures today after her program at the Works. Then we went out to dinner at the Fish Shanty. She is doing well but misses you. Take Care..I miss you too!! Love Cathy & Ken
It's been an adventurous couple of days so far. It took three flights to finally get onto the glacier, the first attempt getting turned back about half way to the airstrip on the SE fork of the Kahiltna glacier. The second time we were just four minutes from the airstrip when ground fog turned us back. But, at 6:00pm we finally made it! I've got to hand it to our pilots. Three attempts is unprecedented.
Given the hour of the day we opted to make camp and begin our climb in the morning.
I'm sure I wasn't the only climber on the trip to fret about the winds and snow the was blasting our tents all night, but at 6:00am the weather settled and we awoke to calm skies. Unfortunately, it didn't last and clouds and snow soon became the order of the day. Navigating in conditions like this can be a challenge, but I soon discovered that we had a secret weapon on our team: our guide Maile Wade, whose uncanny eyes could pick out even the smallest speck of a wand in the white out conditions that our first day served up for us. Coupled with my gps, we made it to tonight's camp at 7800' in great order. Of course, the tiresome winds of the day challenged our camp building skills, but I have to hand to the entire team, everybody dealt exceptionally well with all that was thrown our way today. The first days of these big expeditions can be trying even in nice conditions, and that everyone was in great spirits at the end of the day bodes well for the rest of the trip.
In the parlance of the young: 'I'm psyched!'
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Got the message that you guys moved up to @ 9600’ Great job! Please post an update on how the team is doing when you can.
Posted by: Marina on 5/22/2011 at 7:41 am
HW- hope the weather will get better. BB made a new friend with a 3yr old boy with glasses in her soccer class today. All of us are well and we wish you & your team a successful climb. Love, F
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Smiles for miles!!!
Posted by: Carole on 5/23/2011 at 6:13 pm
Wow, Steve - incredible! The entire S&H team, headed by your loving spouse, is rooting for your successful (almost effortless) summit, praying for you guys every step of the way and is awed by you guys! Be safe and keep us posted - Cheers, Wendy
Posted by: wendy st charles on 5/23/2011 at 1:59 pm
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