Entries from Mt. McKinley

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Learn About Storm Days

June 6, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 5, 2016 - 9:46 p.m. PDT A clear night allowed the radiant heat from yesterday to escape, meaning quite the cool and crisp morning was upon us. When temperatures drop well below zero as they did this morning, it is another level of cold. There is a threshold where the mouths of our insulated Nalgene bottles freeze over, and our 12-liter aluminum water pots in the kitchen become lined with a thick layer of ice all around. The clear morning lured some climbers and neighbors to break camp and begin a push up to high camp. Within a few hours though, the forecast proved accurate as Denali began to cap over and a storm develop. Light to moderate winds here at 14 camp, but still cold and no real warming yet with increasing snowfall intensity. The "nowcast" and short lived morning sun surely tricked those climbers as they were turned around just a thousand feet up by extreme cold and back in camp by noon. Only becoming stronger with continued acclimatization, and tall snow-brick walls fortifying the windward sides of our homestead, we are content with staying put. Our camp now sits in a wind eddy as gusts strong enough to bend trees push into our walls and curl over as we lay in the tents and nap. Nice to have spent a few days dialing in our camp! The team is ready and excited to make a move once the mountain allows, but only with a high safety margin and good style. For now though we'll keep kickin' it at camp: remodeling, relaxing, pancake eating, and cold hard chilling until the weather changes. Also worth noting was last nights impromptu trip to "The Edge of the World". A short walk across Genet Basin brought us to an amazing vista overlooking the Kahiltna Glacier, Mount Hunter and Foraker, and a large portion of the route we traveled in the past week. Evening light and periodic clearing made for a special view. Snow crystals flickered and glittered through the gaps of misty clouds floating 5,000' above the ominous cracks and towering walls of the NE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Learning how to stay busy during our first real "storm day" isn't so bad! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Stinger,

Waffles please! I know you just came for the waffles.

Good thing you’ve had Chicago training for extreme negative temperatures, powerful gusts of wind, and staying home and napping when you’re scheduled to work. I hope your beard is full enough now to keep you warm while giving you a nice sunglasses tan. The goggles do nothing!

Don’t stick your tongue to anything metal.

Jacket

Posted by: Jacket on 6/6/2016 at 8:29 pm

to Bob: Amelia and Chet think your trip is awesome and that you are crazy. it sounds “so cool” and Uncle Bob is “the best” can’t wait to talk to you when you get back. dad is in boulder/denver and vail next week (you know why). we are puling for you uncle bob.

Posted by: mark mullen on 6/6/2016 at 7:58 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 11,200’

June 5, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

June 5, 2016 - 5:20 p.m. PDT Our luck has been pretty good so far -- when we arrived at camp yesterday, it had just began to snow and once we finished today's toil, the same happened. The job for today was to carry a load up hill to make our move to 11 Camp a little more civilized. It also gives us a chance to acclimatize a little and do some walking with a little less weight. The team did great and though we were in a whiteout for much of the day, we were treated to one or two to looks around. I can't wait for our team to see where we are, without being obscured by weather. It will be a treat and all in good time. RMI Guide Jake Beren and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

A message for Brad Lawler: very excited for you and hoping the weather clears so you can take in all the beauty. Stay warm and don’t forget your insoles!

Posted by: Matthew DeVoll on 6/6/2016 at 10:25 am

Good to hear all the news! What’s the team name?

Isty

Posted by: Isty on 6/5/2016 at 10:59 pm

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Denali - West Buttress Expedition: Okita and Team Celebrate

June 5, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

We're off the mountain and diving to the Anchorage airport. Obviously, we flew off the glacier last night, just before dinner. After some thankless chores of sorting out gear that the team did without complaint, it was off to the Talkeetna Motel where we had to wait again as the owner cleaned out rooms. But still no complaints from one of the nicest groups of folks I've had the pleasure of climbing with. Dinner then drinks and merriment at the Fairview Inn. What went on in that fine establishment I'll leave unsaid. Just know that the two block walk back to the hotel seemed manageable and safe for all. That only half the group made it to breakfast at 9:00 might tell of the fun had that night. It's been a tremendous trip with people I'd love to climb with or at least see again. I hope you've enjoyed sharing the trip in this way with us. Maybe next time you'll be part of our group - it's an amazing experience in an amazing world. It will change your life and be with you forever. From Alaska this last time, so long. RMI Guide Brent Okita & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great to hear that everyone made it back to sea level safe! What an amazing trip you all must have had. Along with Joe, I cannot wait to hear the stories you must have! Great job Dawn, so proud of you!
All the best to all team members and keep on climbing those mountains for no one will remember those extra days you spent in the office!!

Cheers from Calgary,

Darcy

Posted by: Darcy on 6/8/2016 at 7:55 am

Congrats Team! Thanks for keeping us updated Brent; it was a blast (and much needed distraction) following you all up the mountain whilst day-dreaming of alpine starts and fresh Alaskan air from my office here in the gloomy SF! So stoked and proud of you Dawn, looking forward to reconnecting with you and the Rainier team soon and hearing all about your Denali adventure.

Joe

Posted by: Joseph Walker on 6/6/2016 at 9:36 am

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Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Hits the Glacier

June 5, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7600'

June 4, 2016 - 11:46 a.m. PDT The team played a lot of hurry up and wait most of the day in Talkeetna. We put the final touches on packing, weighed in for the flight, and waited for a weather window to get into the Alaska Range. Our window opened right around 5 PM and we snuck into Kahiltna BC just before it socked in again. Once on the glacier we spent a few hours rigging for rope travel and re-packing before we hit the dusty trail. Everyone did a fantastic job and just before 1 AM we set up camp at 7,600' on the Kahiltna That's it for now. We're all really excited to be here. Thanks for following along, RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and The UWR team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Ben and Team. Looks beautiful but super cold. Stay warm!! Ben is that you in the yellow coat??! Safe travels.

xo
Mel

Posted by: Melinda on 6/7/2016 at 8:28 am

Andrea mou!! Hope you’re having a blast. Pictures looks amazing. Stay warm - miss you!

Posted by: GSD on 6/6/2016 at 6:43 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 5th Summit!

June 5, 2016

Posted by: Leon Davis, Ben Liken

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Leon Davis and Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reported clear skies, a light breeze and comfortable climbing conditions.The team has started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to the team! Another victory for Amherst hockey! Glad everyone had a safe climb.

Posted by: Martha and Denis Moher on 6/5/2016 at 2:39 pm

Congratulations Boys! What is the next challenge?

Love,
The English Family

P.S. Kevin, Grace and Glory say way to go!!!

Posted by: Kevin English on 6/5/2016 at 9:53 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team - Rest Days are the Best Days

June 4, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 4, 2016 - 5:02 pm PT After yesterday's mission caching our summit kits at the top of the fixed lines, the crew is ready for a rest day. We went to bed last night to clear skies and low valley clouds rolling around Foraker and awoke to more perfect views above. Many of the slopes around camp are accruing ski tracks, and providing great entertainment! Today's breakfast was high class gourmet, with salmon and cream cheese bagels and a side of cheesy bacon hash browns. The fresh food has spirits high as we hope for the great weather to continue. Until then we'll continue to chill and watch skiers enjoy the fresh snow. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

You guys are moving impressively fast. Keep listening to Tyler (especially about putting on your puffy pants before coming into the cook tent) and he will get you to the top!

- Devin Smith (Tyler Jones Denali University, class of ‘15)

Posted by: Devin Smith on 6/6/2016 at 8:10 am

Cream Cheese,

Your ideas are intriguing to me and I wish to subscribe to your newsletter.

When’s your next coffee break? While you are resting, I am staying very productive, and going to church. Watching skiers sounds fun; typical powder hounds.

Remember, if we can do it, so can you! What I’m saying is, I’ll give you the money to keep going. It seems like they’re feeding you well, but if you’re still hungry when you get back, we can go to Arby’s.

— Boo

Posted by: Mrs. Oxygen on 6/6/2016 at 12:15 am

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Fly On the Mountain

June 4, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

June 4, 2016 - 4:47 pm PT What a big 24 hours it has been! As yesterday dragged on in the hangar with an ominous dark cloud over the Range, the team seemed pretty resigned to spend another night in Talkeetna. Suddenly the feeling around the airstrip changed as rumors of a slight clearing at basecamp filtered to town. "15% chance, but never hurts to load up the plane," a pilot friend said. That 15% chance kept improving to the point where our air service, K2, felt confident enough to send a scouting plane toward Base Camp. We launched our two Otters on the heels of the scout and navigated storm cells and clouds into the mighty Alaska Range. It was completely amazing. Both planes landed and we hustled out to make room for teams waiting to get off the mountain. The weather had let us in, but the pilots didn't want to push their luck. It was some real impressive flying that put us finally on the mountain after so much preparation. Way to be K2! Having landed on the glacier, we finalized our rigging and set off to begin the climb. Our late in the day flight put us in an excellent position for lighting out. It was a beautiful evening with some swirling clouds and pleasant walking. Our journey took us up to the base of Ski Hill, where we built camp after a long day. It just began to snow as we put the finishing touches on camp and we slept the sleep of the just. The adventure continues and it feels great to be in the mountains! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Back at Kahiltna Basecamp

June 4, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

June 4, 2016 - 4:31 pm PT Our last evening at 11,200' was all too brief. Walking this morning after what we hoped was our last in an open air Posh, we descended into clouds that lasted the morning. It felt great letting the feet stride out. By 11:00am we were at Basecamp, in a complete whiteout! So much for flying out this morning. Thankfully, our job of carrying these huge packs and moving is finally over. With no immediate optimism for a break in the weather to fly out, we did what just felt right, and set up the Posh Tent. Snacks were shared, but hugely, Geoff had cached a case of Alaskan Amber to celebrate our safe return. What a treat! After word from Basecamp Lisa of clearing conditions down glacier, we've rallied our gear in place, all except for our Posh. We're back here now, everyone sacked out and recovering from a short night and a few jam packed days. Conversation floats in for those of us not snoring away or fatigue, as does the sounds of the famed guide Vern Tejas' ukulele. Things are looking better around here. There's still hope we might have a big steak and fresh veggies for dinner tonight. I'm betting we'll be out for a late dinner and you'll be hearing from your loved ones soon. Until then, I might join my teammates in some much needed rest. A tout a l'heure, RMI Guides Brent, Christina and the team

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Gear Up and Prepare to Fly

June 3, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

June 3, 2016 - 10:54 pm PT The Upper West Rib team started the day like any reasonable person in Talkeetna would, lots of coffee, eggs and bacon at the Roadhouse. From there we headed down to the K2 Hangar and went through all our gear and got packed up for flying into the Alaska range tomorrow. In the afternoon we had our NPS orientation and put the final touches on gear packing before relaxing a little. It began raining here in town but even the inclement weather couldn't bring down the stoke in our group. Everyone is extremely excited to get into the Range. Keep your fingers crossed for good fly weather for us tomorrow. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team - The Kit Has Been Dropped

June 3, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 3, 2016 - 8:32 pm PT Today was another cold morning with a quick breakfast. We shouldered our loads for the carry to above the fixed lines at 16,200ft. The team climbed well and efficiently. The weather was white, like walking in a milk jug, and the wind light until the last few moments when we pulled up on the ridge of the West Buttress the brisk wind and gray sky had us in our biggest warmest layers. We quickly dug a cache and dropped back onto the fixed lines where the wind calmed and we made our way back to camp for a relaxing afternoon and a trip meal highlight of quesadillas with fresh veggies and all the fixings. Tonight the team will sleep well and we are planning a rest day tomorrow with a short acclimatization hike to the Edge of the World, which is on of the nicest vistas in all of the Alaska range. The final kit of summit gear and food is stashed up high, and we're ready to make the push once the weather allows. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

June the Fourth Be With You

Posted by: Han Duet on 6/5/2016 at 10:59 pm

Congrats guys on what sounds like a cold tough day! You’re almost there! I’m so inspired by all your hard work trekking this big mountain.

Ongun sending you all the warmth from NYC and all my hugs and kisses! I hope you’re doing well I can’t wait to see you!

I am keeping busy looking at buildings and neighborhoods around the city and think I may have found a great potential option for our next home! For now though I hope you are enjoying your mountain home. You’re living in a corner of this world very few have and will ever see! So exclusive and cool lol. I can’t wait to hear all about it:)

Keep it up team and stay warm and safe!
Karina

Posted by: karina on 6/4/2016 at 1:56 pm

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Learn About Storm Days

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 11,200’

On The Map

Denali - West Buttress Expedition: Okita and Team Celebrate

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Hits the Glacier

Mt. Rainier: June 5th Summit!

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team - Rest Days are the Best Days

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Fly On the Mountain

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Back at Kahiltna Basecamp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Gear Up and Prepare to Fly

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team - The Kit Has Been Dropped

On The Map

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