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Entries from Mt. McKinley


Mt.McKinley: Haugen & Team Cache Above the Fixed Lines

June 21, 2015 11:09pm PST Our alarms woke us up early to a beautifully clear, but cold, morning. We had breakfast and set out around 5 a.m. to cache some gear up higher on the mountain. The route above 14,000 camp becomes very steep and we use fixed lines the gain the West Buttress at 16,200'. When we got to the top of the fixed lines, our El Siete crew had not had enough. We decided to do some more climbing and bury our cache below a huge rock feature called Washburn's Thumb at 16,500 feet. Although we had to do some delicate passing of some upward teams on our way down, we made it back to camp in good time. We are taking a rest day tomorrow and then hopefully moving up to high camp the following day. That is all weather dependent of course! Mike Haugen and RMI Team 7 "El Siete"
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks for your postings, it’s impressing what you achieve up there in that beautiful mountains. And Erlend; it was so nice to speak with you this morning, made my day and the rest of the time you are away.I called your mother and Lorents, they were so glad to hear that everything is OK with you,Fredrik and the whole team. Robin came today,he’s in good mood and I think he will be staying for some time :)Wish you the best for the days that are coming,you are all fighters up there it seems :) Love you E. Hugs and kisses, Hilde

Posted by: Hilde Hestflått on 6/22/2015 at 2:04 pm

It is amazing that you had the strength to continue even past the expected drop zone. You are mountain warriors for sure! Talked to Doug last night and it was so good to hear from him!! We are very excited for his adventure up Denali.

Posted by: Chris on 6/22/2015 at 1:10 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Celebrate Father’s Day at 11,200’

June 21, 2015 10:40pm PST Greetings on this fine Father's Day from Camp 3 at just over 11k'! Our team enjoyed a leisurely morning and a relatively quick and painless move up today with light loads and nice temps. After building camp we took advantage of the free afternoon to lounge around, snack, nap, play scrabble, dig a hole to bury a box, reposition some door knobs, moisten our fence wood, and general beveraging. Our gang is in great spirits and enjoyed our first evening hangout in the posh (cook tent) of the trip. Hoping for a continuation of the decent weather for tomorrow's back-carry down to 9,600' where we left our cache of supplies. We're also hoping that all of our fathers had a great Father's Day. Know that we're thinking about you up here! Wulp, that's all for now. RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Art, was reading your diary from your 1991 climb.  Hope you won’t encounter the weather and frostbite like that trip. My best to Charlie and the team.
Betty

Posted by: elizabeth williams on 6/23/2015 at 5:25 am

Moving strong team! Great job - hope all the Dad’s on the team enjoyed Father’s Day on Denali!

Doug - Continue to Dance on the Dragon’s Back…
“Not all men were meant to dance with dragons”
George R.R. Martin

~Belladonna

Posted by: Belladonna on 6/22/2015 at 10:55 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Trip Complete

June 21, 2015 2:37 pm PT Well the team has disbanded for more solo projects after an incredible climb of Denali. We worked hard together for a few weeks and were lucky enough to see that hard work pay off and stand on top together. I'm proud of the effort and camaraderie that made a successful trip for everyone. So much goes in to a good adventure and the main ingredient is the people who choose to undertake it. Thanks to everyone who offered up their loved ones for a few weeks while we tried to match an exceptional mountain. See you all soon and great job Team. RMI Guides Jake, Andrew and Christina
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Amazing Feat AJ! Congratulations again team! :)

-Priya

Posted by: Priya on 6/25/2015 at 10:23 am

Congratulations All! Bravely done, and looks like you had a stellar weather window for summit day. I look forward to hearing stories when you get back, Bill Dorn…

Posted by: Theron Shaw on 6/22/2015 at 10:14 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

June 20, 2015 10:01 pm PT It started snowing when we went to bed last night and it did not stop until we woke up this morning. We have made such good time so far, so we decided to take a weather/rest day today. It turned out to be a great decision since it turned into a whiteout and began snowing again by midday. We made a half day out of making breakfast quesadillas and hanging out in the cook tent. I am not really sure where the rest of the day went! We are sitting in the sun as of dinner, so I expect we will be able execute our cache plan tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We love the blog updates! Happy Father’s Day to Matt Krull. We miss you buddy and we’re sure your family does as well. Keep up the great work and we look forward to seeing pictures of you on top of the highest mountain peak in North America!

Posted by: Scott & Scott on 6/22/2015 at 9:28 am

Sounds like it’s been smooth sailing so far! I’m giving updates all the time, thanks for the blog. No snow in the Midwest—hot first day of summer, and the corn is as tall as I am! Tell Brian I planted more, weeded the garden, and gave the critters all some love. You’ve got fans in Iowa, Texas, Hawaii, Japan—you are all in our thoughts. Judi

Posted by: Judi on 6/21/2015 at 7:00 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 9,600’

June 20, 2015 9:26 pm PT Woke up this morning... RMI GuideJake Beren was crouched in my vestibule! He happened to stop by our camp super early on his way to the airstrip to hand off some highly coveted coffee for our climbers. Thanks Jake! Soon thereafter we got up and fired the stoves ourselves. After breaking camp, the weather gods obliged us with comfortable walking temps and some cloud cover that gave us respite from the sun. Our team made short work of our move to Camp 2 at 9,600 feet, dispatching it in 3.5 stretches of walking. We enjoyed a lazy afternoon in the sun, keeping cool with sleeping bags draped over top of the tents, rehydrating and snacking until dinner. We are excited to leave the massive loads behind in a cache here which we will hopefully back-carry up to 11,000' in a couple days. RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kevin,
All your friends are here at the family BBQ, wish you were here buddy. WArren here, bet you wish you had Joe’s heated jacket right about now. I’m really sorry that you’re not drinking th beautiful Portugese red wine. And by the way, it’s not me… it’s Cole!HI Kevin, it’s Joe hahahahaha, not sure what to make of this but I saw Stacey and all yur staff at the pub today at lunch:) very nice I thought. Thanks for the round lol. Hi Kevin it’s Belinda Have to say that we are enjoying the warm gathering here…thinking of you in your subartic zone.  We did drink one on your behalf though.  Slainte mhath from the visiting teuchters! hi :) hope u enjoy the trip…albert and Duncan. All the best from the Flemings…we’re diving into Uncle Vals’ and the Pear Bottle!! Sven

Posted by: Fox Brae BBQ Gang on 6/22/2015 at 5:36 pm

Hope you had a great Father’s Day, Art. Love being able to follow your adventure. Say hi to Charlie for me.

Posted by: Bonnie Bair on 6/22/2015 at 8:08 am


Mt. McKinley:  Nugent & Team Carry Heavy Loads in Good Stride

Saturday June 20th 8:45 a.m. PT First day moving on Mount McKinley was a tremendous success. As a guide, I was impressed with our crew's ability to move smoothly and efficiently despite the very heavy loads and the cumbersome nature of the sled rigging and climbing rope. Usually it's a couple of days before a team will hit its stride like we did today. We enjoyed clear skies and perfect temperatures. For a moment we had considered moving onto the night schedule but a cool down glacier breeze and excellent snow coverage made for safe and comfortable travel during the day. We are all in great spirits, bonding as a team and enjoying our relatively new environs. More from our expedition as it develops. RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Bonne Chance Marc et bonne aventure! On espère que ton voyage se passera bien et on attend ton retour sain et sauf.

Posted by: Yvan Champagne on 6/23/2015 at 1:26 pm

specktacularview of the mountain !

Posted by: mark and helen on 6/21/2015 at 4:56 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

Friday June 19th 11:15 pm PT After a much needed full night of sleep, we woke up to sunny, perfect weather. The Uchal-Dee power duo made us some delicious pancakes for breakfast. We did some training for our next adventure on the fixed lines that we will find on the steep slopes that lead us up to our next camp. The rest of the day was spent enjoying the great weather. We are going to bed with a light snow showering down on our tent. Our plan is to try to carry some gear up towards 17k camp...if it clears that is. RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mike,

Please tell my dad “Happy Father’s Day” from his family. We love him and are thoughts and prayers are with him.

We can’t wait to hear the stories…

Thanks for your posts.

Josh

Posted by: Josh on 6/20/2015 at 11:52 pm

  Beautiful pictures! I am glad the blueberry pancakes materialized for the hungry gents. Hope the weather holds for you guys. We are at our cabin on the lake riding our ATV’s and fishing in the lake for Father’s Day weekend. Our adventures are much more mild. Enjoy your Father’s Day adventure tomorrow, Doug, and we will enjoy ours.

Posted by: Chris on 6/20/2015 at 4:47 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Summit!

Friday June 19th 11:11 pm PT On Thursday, June 18th, RMI Guide Jake Beren and his June 2nd Mount McKinley Expedition reached the summit!!! After our spectacular day on the roof of this continent, we have to come down. Waking to calm winds and warm(ish) temperatures, we packed up our high camp and bid our snow walls and tent platforms adios. Leaving 17K Camp we cruised the Buttress and made it down to 14K Camp where we dug up a cache and wished the ascending RMI team bon voyage before heading to 11K camp to grab a few winks while the glacier sets up for our walk out to the runway. Amazing how just last week we were camped here with a huge mountain ahead of us filled with so many unknowns. Now we are on the other side of the mountain, grateful for the exploration of an amazing place on planet earth. RMI Guide Jake Beren
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So awesome that you all made it. We can’t wait to hear all the details and celebrate with you!

Lisa

Posted by: Lisa Van Dusen on 6/24/2015 at 9:48 pm

Way to go everyone! Can’t wait to hear all about it Mere!

Sarah S

Posted by: Sarah S on 6/23/2015 at 9:46 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move into 14K Camp

Thursday June 18th 10:15 pm PT Today was another early wake up, and then we broke camp and retraced our steps back up to 14K Camp. Everyone did great with the move, and the name of the game for the rest of the day was beating the heat around camp, moving in and mentally preparing for a much deserved day of rest tomorrow. The word on the street is blueberry pancakes could be involved. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks for the posts.  They are great.  Go Aaron, we are praying for you and for good weather.  Thanks to the entire team!

Bob / Dad

Posted by: Bob Telford on 6/19/2015 at 6:51 pm

It’s so nice to reed that the whole team are doing good!:) All the best wishes for Erlend and Fredrik and everyone > you’ll make it. Erlend: :)(Robin is ok,  and Charlie didn’t do anything wrong since you left, I am cleaning the whole house this weekend and I’m not going out,can’t wait till you are back. Stay safe <3 Love you, h,  Trondheim, Norway

Posted by: Hilde on 6/19/2015 at 3:01 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Begin Their Mountain Days

Thursday June 18th 9:30 pm PT Hi everybody! Billy here checking in from Kahiltna Basecamp on a gloriously sunny day. We enjoyed a big breakfast this morning in Talkeetna's Roadhouse and scooted over to the airport to confirm the fact that we'd indeed be flying first thing. A flurry of packing and final weigh-ins preceded the loading of the planes, a group photo, and a smooth departure. The great folks at K2 were really helpful and quickly delivered our team to Basecamp in two simultaneous otter flights. Next thing we knew we were on the ice and having come from summer it felt a bit abrupt but the sun was strong and kept us warm as we got accustomed to our new surroundings. We spent much of the day building our camp, organizing gear and supplies, and rigging sleds for tomorrow's departure up the hill. The team is psyched for a big adventure and ready to work hard. All for now! RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Art, let me know if you want me to post any favorite passages from Ulysses for your amusement on your climb.

Posted by: Bob Ryan on 6/19/2015 at 11:29 am

Hey Kevin! How how is the food situation going? We hope you haven’t had to dump any of it yet haha!

Posted by: Angela and Carmen on 6/19/2015 at 11:09 am

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