Posts for Mount McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Hahn’s Team Ventures Out to the Edge of the World

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 07, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Monday July 6th 11:23 pm PT

Our rest day at 14,200 ft was jam packed with naps and meals in the POSH tent.  It wouldn’t have been a great day for moving higher anyway since we watched a storm take over the upper mountain.  Steve Gately led the team out to the “Edge of the World” before the clouds came around and each climber got the thrill of looking down thousands of feet to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.  In the late afternoon, we all put in a work session to improve the snow walls protecting our tents.  By dinner, the storm had arrived at 14K Camp and snow and wind took over outside.  We’d love to move up tomorrow so we’ll hope this weather moves on through. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Cache Supplies at 16,200’

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 06, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday July 5th 10:26 pm PT

We started walking uphill at 10 this morning.  There was a mean-looking cloudcap on Denali when we first looked up, but things mellowed as we ate breakfast and geared up.  We made excellent time, climbing up the fixed line section to 16,200 ft on the West Buttress, and in the process, we shattered altitude records for Gary, Peter and Pat.  It took a few minutes to cache food in a raven-proof snow hole up there and then we cruised down with light packs.  It turned out to be a sunny and warm day down at 14K Camp and we were happy to rack out for a few hours in warm tents before dinner.  We’ve earned a rest and acclimatization day tomorrow.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Mt. McKinley's 14K Camp. Photo: John Race

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Spoke with Richard this morning.  We are going to Denver, August 7th, for the party. Your invited.  Been busy playing cards in D-Town.  We’er very proud of you for shattering… read more

Posted by: Dad & Mom Ross on 7/6/2015 at 12:49 pm

so proud of you Pat, a great accomplishment!

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Posted by: mom and dad grengs on 7/6/2015 at 11:13 am


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Leave 11K Camp Headed for Base Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 05, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday July 5th 10:45 am PT

RMI Guide Billy Nugent just called the office to check in.  The team had a long, tough day yesterday breaking trail through the new snow that had fallen on the route. After sleeping in this morning, they are getting ready to depart Denali’s 11K Camp.  They are hoping to be at Kahiltna Base by late afternoon/early evening.

An RMI team leaving Denali's 11K Camp, descending to Base Camp. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Backcarry Gear to 14K Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 05, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday July 4th 11:00 pm PT

Our first morning at 14K camp was calm and easy.  We slept in until the sun peaked over Denali’s West Rib at 9:15 AM.  We had a leisurely breakfast in our new POSH dining tent (stolen from Billy Nugent’s RMI Team) and then we geared up for retrieving our cached food, fuel and equipment from 13,500 ft.  That just took us about two hours, round trip, and then the team took it easy for the afternoon.  Billy Nugent’s team made the top yesterday and we were happy to share camp with them for a couple of hours as they passed through on their descent to 11,000 ft.  After dinner, we had a short refresher training session on climbing fixed ropes as of course that is our next goal, to climb the fixed ropes to 16,200 ft.  As usual, we’ll need to see what the weather does… it started snowing again this afternoon. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Mt. Foraker from Mt. McKinley's 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Summit!

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'

Hey, it is Billy here just checking in after a safe and successful summit bid.  We got up, kind of stalled a little bit because it was a cold morning.  We left around 10 pm, it took us about 12 1/2 hours round trip.  We were super psyched. So we’re back in camp, and like I said before everyone is safe and sound. Now we’re just hoping for good weather to beat feet for the airport.  That’s all I have for now.  We are going to eat dinner and get some sleep.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Climbers on the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Dave Hahn The view from the summit of Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection


RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls from High Camp on Denali after a successful summit bid.

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incredible Kevin “Cayman”....Congratulations to one and all, Mountains seem to answer an increasing imaginative need In us. More and more people are discovering a desire for them, and a powerful… read more

Posted by: Sven on 7/4/2015 at 1:08 pm

Way to go, Charlie and Art! You are monsters!! It’s all downhill from here on. Safe travels home.

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Posted by: Bob Ryan on 7/4/2015 at 12:46 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Move to 14,000 Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

July 4, 2015 1:11 am PST

This was the day.  The weather was a whole lot better than the last few days, but it wasn’t perfect.  A little blustery.  We needed to take advantage though to get out of 11,000’  and up to 14,000’ Camp.  Even having had a handful of teams break trail on the route before we made our effort today, we still anticipated a tough haul with knee deep snow on such steep hills.  Motorcycle took longer than normal, Squirrel took longer, the Polo Fields went on forever, Windy Corner was windy (and it took longer).  It was all pretty tough going until we got around the corner and reached our cache location from the other day.  Finally there was less new snow, less wind and a decent track to follow.  It was still uphill though.  It took us 8.5 hours to cover what should have taken 6 hours, but what a wonderful feeling to roll into 14 Camp after thinking of it so much when we were stuck down below.  We’ve got different and magnificent views now, of Denali, but also of Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter and about a thousand other peaks when the clouds allow.  We did a late dinner after camp was built and then hurried in to the tents for the night.  It is colder up here, and colder still when the sun goes behind the mountain.  Everybody deserves good rest after such a big day. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Climbers on the top of Motorcyle Hill at 11,600 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Smoke & Snow for Hahn & Team at 11,200’

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

The wind and snow conspired to make for a tough and noisy night in the tents last night.  A few intrepid souls got out in the storm to dig away the encroaching drifts.  Morning brought less wind, but the snow continued as the guides served breakfast in bed.  It was slightly surreal to have the strong smell of forest fire smoke mixed in with heavily falling snow while camped so far from trees.  Eventually the snow slowed and then stopped, but by that point, several feet of it had accumulated.  The clouds stayed right in on us until about 8 in the evening.  We were enjoying an open air dinner when the mist fell away, the sun came out and everything got beautiful.  The team stayed out well into the evening, staring at Kahiltna Dome, Mount Foraker and Denali’s West Buttress.  Our prospects for going up in the morning were improved as we watched several teams come down Motorcycle Hill, plowing a trail and cutting whatever tension the otherwise suspect snow-pack was under.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team

11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK with Kahiltna Dome in the distance. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Take a Snow Day at High Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Thursday, July 2, 2015 - 3:15 pm PT

RMI Guide Mike King called the RMI Office from high camp at 17,200 ft on Mt. McKinley. The team spend a snowy and windy night at camp last night. Today they spent the day resting and drying their gear. The team has received the forecast for tomorrow and are hoping the weather will allow them to make a summit attempt. If the weather permits, they will be heading up hill.

We wish the team luck!

An RMI team building walls at high camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Take a Snow Day At 11,200’ Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JM Gorum, Steve Gately | July 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

July 2, 2015 12:36 am PST

This day didn’t start out all that bad, but then it didn’t waste too much time getting bad.  It got snowing about an inch an hour by mid morning.  That didn’t stop some of our neighbors from picking up and moving to 14K anyway, but it stopped us.  We didn’t want to risk getting caught at Windy Corner when the wind started.  So it was a quiet day for us, sitting in our tents listening to the snow.  Just about right in the middle of a nice dinner in our beloved POSH tent, a cannon shot of wind hit and ripped the shelter nearly in half.  We sat for a few minutes more anyway, chowing down, looking out the big new vent and wondering who’d be first to abandon ship.  Then it was a mass exodus back to the tents for what promised to be a windy, snowy, stormy night on Denali.  We’ll figure out a different plan for our cooking and dining shelter needs. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Stormy conditions at 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Retreat from 18,500’

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

July 1, 2015 6:25 pm PST

Hey, it’s Billy here checking in from 17,200’ on Denali.  We are back in camp after our foray up the Autobahn and around the corner on Denali Pass but it was quite windy. The wind along with zero visibility and blowing snow and some wind slab instability conspired to shut down our summit attempt.  So we turned tail at just above 18,500 feet and everyone is back down in camp, in one piece safe and sound.  We’re trying to regroup and figure out what the future holds for us. We’ll check in tomorrow and let you know we’re up to you.

All for now.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Climber ascending the Autobahn on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Lindsay Mann


RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from 17,200 ft on Mt. McKinley

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Recent Images From Mount McKinley

  • The favorite planes of Alaskan bush pilots, the Cessna 185 took a few trips to get a whole team and their gear to Base Camp.   RMI Collectio
  • Whether in 1970 or today, the feeling as you watch the plane take off and hear the engine roar fade to silence is the same.   John Lucia
  • It still takes a lot of gear to get a team to the summit Mt. McKinley and back again.   Brent Okita
  • Today there are a few more people on the route, as evidenced by the tent village at 11k camp.   Brent Okita
  • Pastuhkova Rocks at 15,100 ft on Mt. Elbrus, Russia.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Looking up toward the summit of Mt. Elbrus from Pastuhkova Rocks.  Photo: Linden Mallory
  • The June 23, 2015, Mount McKinley team on the summit! Photo: Dave Hahn
  • RMI climbers standing on top of Motorcycle Hill on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • RMI Climbers building walls at 14 Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Mt. McKinley's 14K Camp. Photo: John Race
  • An RMI team leaving Denali's 11K Camp, descending to Base Camp. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Mt. Foraker from Mt. McKinley's 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers on the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The view from the summit of Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers on the top of Motorcyle Hill at 11,600 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK with Kahiltna Dome in the distance. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team building walls at high camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Stormy conditions at 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climber ascending the Autobahn on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • RMI Camp at 17,200' on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Fresh Snow at 11,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI team on Squirrel Hill, Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Brent Okita