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Entries from Denali


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Ascend to 11,000’ Camp

June 21, 2017
It snowed a couple of inches overnight at 9500 ft but skies were clear by morning.  A cool breeze kept us in bed for a little while, but we were on the trail by 9:30 and making slow and steady progress toward the head of the Kahiltna Glacier.  We could almost see all of its forty-seven mile length stretched out below us as we turned East at Kahiltna Pass.  The cool breeze was nowhere to be found as we worked up steeper hills at midday.  We made it into 11,000 ft Camp at 1 PM and were happy to see our friends on Mike Haugen’s team.  They kindly helped to shovel tent sites for us and gave us some “starter water” to make us feel at home.  The day had turned out to be stunningly nice… Which is always a good thing on the solstice.  We gazed in wonder at the bright clean angular chunks of glacier hanging all around us and at the formidable rock of the NW and West Buttresses.  Camp went up smoothly and quickly and we crawled in the tents to beat the heat for a few hours.  Evening was a social whirl as guides and climbers from all over the world had reunions and wished each other well as they went in opposite directions.  We will take a much deserved rest day tomorrow and look forward to catching up on sleep, reading, and hydration. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Keep it going Jim! Thanks for the updates!

Posted by: Stephen Walker on 6/23/2017 at 4:28 pm

Awesome job!!! Thank you for the updates. Cheers and enjoy the rest day!!

Posted by: Chris on 6/23/2017 at 7:07 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Ascend to 9,500’

June 20, 2017
The alarm went off at 3 AM but we didn’t leave camp until close to noon.  Winds built as we ate breakfast and the thought of walking straight up into a cold and snowy down glacier breeze was unappealing.  We did what we often do in such circumstances… We dragged our feet and waited to see which way the weather might trend.  We got out our already packed sleeping bags and waited in the early morning shadows.  When the sun came out, we were still waiting.  By 11 things were not so different, but it wasn’t nearly as cold.  And so we packed up and made our move.  As is normal, the glacier was in far better condition as we worked up Ski Hill.  We had just a handful of easy crevasses to cross before we reached the stable ice up at 9500 ft.  We pulled into our unbuilt new home just before 4PM and got busy building.  Clouds had built up below us, overtaking our last camp and by evening we were in light snow from the clouds just up glacier, but we still had great views of Mts Foraker and Hunter to our South.  The team turned in at 8 PM.  Higher and happier with each passing day. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad to see all is going well out there.. keep chugging along!!!

Mr. Walker, Vegas Knights picked up Oscar Lindberg, tough loss but they are in really good shape still. I’ll keep you updated on the moves.

Good luck the rest of the way and soak it all in.

Chris

 

Posted by: Chris Calnan on 6/21/2017 at 7:10 pm

116 ha! Try 120 degrees and counting! Yeah Ken! I so wish I were there with your group enjoying much cooler climes! It must be beautiful beyond words! Hope you are taking loads of photos!
Climb on! Hugs~

Posted by: Joy on 6/21/2017 at 1:15 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Retrieve Cache

June 19, 2017
Denali remains unseasonably cold for June. This actually works in our favor for the lower camps. The cold days allow us to wake up a little later to move camps or cache before the sun comes out and bakes us.
We successfully completed our mission for the day, which was to go back to our last camp and retrieve some food and gear that we left cached there. We couldn’t have asked for better travel conditions with perfect weather and a great path stomped through the deep snow. We completed our task with enough time for second breakfast and an afternoon nap. This mountaineering stuff is rough!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Roll Into 7,800’ Camp

June 19, 2017 9:06 pm PST

Conditions were perfect at 1 AM for beginning an early morning transit of the Kahiltna Glacier.  Skies were clear and the snow surface was beginning to freeze good and hard -just the way we like it for traveling crevassed terrain with heavy packs and sleds.  We got stoves going and began to dress for success.  The team set out at precisely 4AM and marched down the SE Fork of the Kahiltna to its junction with the main glacier -we banged a right turn and started our climb.  The glacier didn’t have much good snow from the winter, so plenty of crevasses were exposed and needed crossing, but with the good freeze, the crossings were easy and uneventful.  We saw ample evidence of climbers having come through in soggy, hot and heavy conditions, poking legs and bodies into the dark cold depths of the glacier.  We took hourly rest breaks and accomplished our move in just under five hours total, pulling into 7800 ft just before 9.  Then in calm sunshine, we set to work building camp.  T
Tents went up and once all work was finished, we dove in for naps, escaping the ridiculously intense midday sun.  By early evening it was tolerable outside once again and we met for dinner under the shelter of our dining tent.  Forecasts for the day had called pretty definitively for new falling snow, but our reality was a pleasant summer day.  We’ll gladly take another day of this “storm”.

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Land on the Kahiltna Glacier

June 18, 2017
It was overcast and gray in Talkeetna this morning when the team got in for a 7AM breakfast, but we were optimistic in any case.  Things had brightened just a bit by the time we assembled in the K2 hangar, but the word was passed that fog on the glacier surface would keep planes out of Basecamp initially.  We drank coffee and fidgeted with our gear for a bit.  Then we loaded the planes.  Then we fidgeted a bit more.  Then it was time to fly and we got our boots on.  We hastily texted friends and loved ones as our two big beautiful De Havilland Otters taxied out to the runway.  We were off!  But then the fog came back over Basecamp and we did a u turn and landed in Talkeetna.  We texted, we drank more coffee and then we loaded up for real.  The flight in got markedly more dramatic and spectacular as we entered the Alaska Range.  Before we knew it, we were setting down perfectly on skis on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.  There were about a hundred climbers assembled, ready to fly home and so it was a busy scene.  We were very pleased to shake hands and give hugs to the two RMI teams finishing their adventures with Jake Beren and Tyler Jones.  Then we set to building camp and reviewing safety procedures for travel on the lower glaciers.  We’d stop every now and then to stare in wide eyed wonder at massive Mt Foraker and vertical Mt Hunter, towering over us.  Dinner, some story telling and some packing completed our big day.  We turned in at 8 PM with the sun nowhere remotely even close to the horizon.  We’ll get up early -weather permitting- and make our move in the cool of morning when the glacier surface is firmer and safer. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good weather and safe travels!!!

Posted by: Christina perez on 6/19/2017 at 9:45 pm

Hi Hans, Anja, all climbers and guides,
I try to send you sunny weather from Germany!!!
Good luck and full energy for all members…
Ute

Posted by: Ute Novak on 6/19/2017 at 11:18 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move to Camp 3

June 18, 2017
Well folks, I’m happy to report the view is indeed gorgeous! We got a little later start today due to some inclement weather, and it turned out to be the right call. Rolling out of camp at 8, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with views of Kahiltna Dome and Mt Crosson. I’d be lying if I said it didn’t make the walking a little easier! That and the fact that we opted to cache gear at our last camp and do a back carry tomorrow. So, with light loads and beautiful surroundings, we were happy to roll into Camp 3 at 11,000’ and make an extra kush home for the next few days. Joe Horiskey would be proud! We’re now all tucked in and prepping for another light day acclimatizing and making the trip down to 9,600’ to retrieve the rest of our belongings.

Good night from Camp 3!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome reading about your daily travels.  Stay safe (and thinking about Lance and Caleb on this journey) :)

Posted by: Tina Kyllonen on 6/20/2017 at 9:31 am

Glo, what a wonderful father day present to hear your voice from Denali, the great one! Our thoughts and prayers are with you as your journey continues, be safe, love u, pa

Posted by: David Roe on 6/19/2017 at 8:38 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Prepped and Ready in Talkeetna

Yesterday we converged at baggage carousel #1 in the Anchorage airport… having come from far and wide to form our Denali climbing team.  A commute with Denali Overland and our driver Bill brought us into Talkeetna, Alaska by 9 PM.  Today we got down to brass tacks and started preparing seriously to go on the mountain.  It wasn’t all drudgery as our first official team meeting was conducted over a fine Roadhouse breakfast with plenty of good hot coffee.  Introductions were completed in time for our mandatory National Park Service Orientation Slideshow at the Talkeetna Ranger Station.  We were reminded that it had been a tough season for weather on Denali, with only 30% of climbers making the summit so far.  Indeed, we’d begun the day walking the streets in steady rain.  By midday when we headed for the K2 Aviation hangar, things were beginning to look up.  We conducted a thorough check of each climbers gear and clothing as big stretches of blue sky too over.  We kept looking toward the Range as we went through sorting tents and ropes and food for the group, but the big peaks stayed well-disguised in the murk and cloud.  By early evening the loads were in order and weighed for hefting into airplanes.  The work done, we headed back into downtown Talkeetna for dinner at the bustling Twister Creek.  It is high season for tourism in Alaska.  We all relaxed a little and made final preparations for “getting on” in the morning.  Getting on a plane, getting on a glacier, and getting on a climb. 
With a little more improvement in the weather, we’ll be on our way. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Ascend Ski Hill to Camp 2

June 17, 2017
We’ve made it! To Camp 2! It was early, it was snowy, and it was sloggy but we made it! We left camp at 3:45 this morning to stick with our nocturnal schedule and to avoid the post holey conditions. Lucky for us the snow had firmed up and the walking was primo. The visibility on the other hand was little to none, and our only views were those of the rope teams in front of us. We made a few discoveries along the way, for instance uphill travel is much easier without your sled break on! After a few more hours, the occasional bump in the road, and a fair amount of pressure breathing, we pulled into the white expanse of Camp 2. I wish I could tell you views were beautiful but I’ll have to wait until the sun comes out! We’re now all cozied up in our tents, enjoying some R&R, before a tasty meal of Horiskey Mac and Cheese!

The memories of the slow ascent of Ski Hill are already fading and we are setting our sights on moving to 11,000’ tomorrow. Spirits are high and backs are strong!

Until tomorrow,
RMI Guide MIke Haugen and crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Marc and Chris,
Thinking of you two on your adventure! Hope you’re having a blast!
-Marcia

Posted by: Marcia on 6/19/2017 at 12:17 pm

Love you Gloria!

Posted by: Michelle W on 6/18/2017 at 9:23 pm


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Made It to Basecamp!

June 17, 2017 1:43 pm PST

Hello from the upper airstrip of Denali Basecamp. We made the arduous descent from high camp in snowy and windy conditions down to 11,000ft last evening. We unfortunately did not get a break from the weather… WINDS.
Today we had a very alpine start to climb down to base camp in the cold of early morning in order to reduce our chances of breaking through snow bridges on the lower glacier. We were able to do just that! After arriving we were told the normal runway was to bumpy and crevassed. The whole team finished strong up the bonus hill to the upper runway. The weather continues to follow us here in The Alaska Range as I type this blog the fog and mist hold strong for the moment. When the clouds part we will be on the first planes to Talkeetna and on our way back from an amazing trip with lots of learning, and humbling moments. We have learned that the Summits are for our ego and the Journey is for our soul. The mountain is not going anywhere and we can always come back as long as we play safe in the mountains.
High hopes for flying back to reality!

Cheers,
RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Look forward to hearing all the stories Amir !!! :-) most importantly everyone is safe and sound. Will be good to have you back ! :-)

Posted by: René on 6/18/2017 at 6:36 pm

So sorry you didn’t summit but I’m glad everyone is safe.  I am so proud of you, Bill.  Happy Fathers’ Day to a great Dad.  Love, Marie

Posted by: Marie Toro on 6/18/2017 at 7:40 am


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team on Their Descent to the Airstrip

June 17, 2017 1:26 am PST

Hi, everyone. This is Tyler Jones and the Denali team. We moved out of High Camp and we’re back at 11 Camp. We are hoping to go to the air strip sometime tomorrow. Hope all is well. Everything’s good here. Talk to you all soon. Bye.

RMI Guide Tyler Jones


RMI Guide Tyler Jones checks in from 11K Camp.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Babe,

I’m so sorry that the mountain and the weather didn’t cooperate with you guys, but I am sure it was still an amazing adventure. The girls are talking about climbing Whitney this year.. .are you up for it?  Well, maybe after you rest for a couple of days :)
You are still amazing in every way!  Still my hero, my knight in shining armor!  I love you so very much and I can’t wait to see you!!!!

xoxo MO

Posted by: Amanda Gunn on 6/17/2017 at 9:47 am

Tym, Tyler, and Team,

You may be too close to home to even get this.  So sorry the weather did not cooperate. There were reports of snow, snow, and more snow. I know how hard everyone worked and wanted this to happen.  I am confident you made strong, life-long bonds with your team who share your love of climbing. And for you Tym, three’s a charm…so maybe next year!  Best wishes for a safe trip home.

Love, Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/17/2017 at 8:54 am

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