Posts for Mount McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Trip Complete

Posted by: Andrew Kiefer, Christina von Mertens, Jake Beren | June 21, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

June 21, 2015 2:37 pm PT

Well the team has disbanded for more solo projects after an incredible climb of Denali.  We worked hard together for a few weeks and were lucky enough to see that hard work pay off and stand on top together.  I’m proud of the effort and camaraderie that made a successful trip for everyone.  So much goes in to a good adventure and the main ingredient is the people who choose to undertake it.  Thanks to everyone who offered up their loved ones for a few weeks while we tried to match an exceptional mountain.  See you all soon and great job Team.

RMI Guides Jake, Andrew and Christina

The RMI Mt. McKinley June 2, 2015 team on the summit.  Photo: Jake Beren

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee | June 21, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'

June 20, 2015 10:01 pm PT

It started snowing when we went to bed last night and it did not stop until we woke up this morning. We have made such good time so far, so we decided to take a weather/rest day today. It turned out to be a great decision since it turned into a whiteout and began snowing again by midday. We made a half day out of making breakfast quesadillas and hanging out in the cook tent. I am not really sure where the rest of the day went! We are sitting in the sun as of dinner, so I expect we will be able execute our cache plan tomorrow. 

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

Stormy weather at 14,200' Camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Dave Hahn

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 9,600’

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 21, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'

June 20, 2015 9:26 pm PT

Woke up this morning… RMI GuideJake Beren was crouched in my vestibule! He happened to stop by our camp super early on his way to the airstrip to hand off some highly coveted coffee for our climbers. Thanks Jake! Soon thereafter we got up and fired the stoves ourselves. After breaking camp, the weather gods obliged us with comfortable walking temps and some cloud cover that gave us respite from the sun. Our team made short work of our move to Camp 2 at 9,600 feet, dispatching it in 3.5 stretches of walking. We enjoyed a lazy afternoon in the sun, keeping cool with sleeping bags draped over top of the tents, rehydrating and snacking until dinner. We are excited to leave the massive loads behind in a cache here which we will hopefully back-carry up to 11,000’ in a couple days.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

RMI Climbers pulling sled up Ski Hill en route to Camp 2 on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Chris Villar

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Mt. McKinley:  Nugent & Team Carry Heavy Loads in Good Stride

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 20, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'

Saturday June 20th 8:45 a.m. PT

First day moving on Mount McKinley was a tremendous success. As a guide, I was impressed with our crew’s ability to move smoothly and efficiently despite the very heavy loads and the cumbersome nature of the sled rigging and climbing rope. Usually it’s a couple of days before a team will hit its stride like we did today. We enjoyed clear skies and perfect temperatures. For a moment we had considered moving onto the night schedule but a cool down glacier breeze and excellent snow coverage made for safe and comfortable travel during the day. We are all in great spirits, bonding as a team and enjoying our relatively new environs.

More from our expedition as it develops.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Heartbreak Hill, Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Adam Knoff

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee | June 19, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Friday June 19th 11:15 pm PT

After a much needed full night of sleep, we woke up to sunny, perfect weather. The Uchal-Dee power duo made us some delicious pancakes for breakfast. We did some training for our next adventure on the fixed lines that we will find on the steep slopes that lead us up to our next camp. The rest of the day was spent enjoying the great weather. We are going to bed with a light snow showering down on our tent. Our plan is to try to carry some gear up towards 17k camp...if it clears that is.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

An RMI team's 14K camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Summit!

Posted by: Jake Beren, Christina von Mertens, Andrew Kiefer | June 19, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Friday June 19th 11:11 pm PT

On Thursday, June 18th, RMI Guide Jake Beren and his June 2nd Mount McKinley Expedition reached the summit!!!

After our spectacular day on the roof of this continent, we have to come down. Waking to calm winds and warm(ish) temperatures, we packed up our high camp and bid our snow walls and tent platforms adios. Leaving 17K Camp we cruised the Buttress and made it down to 14K Camp where we dug up a cache and wished the ascending RMI team bon voyage before heading to 11K camp to grab a few winks while the glacier sets up for our walk out to the runway.

Amazing how just last week we were camped here with a huge mountain ahead of us filled with so many unknowns. Now we are on the other side of the mountain, grateful for the exploration of an amazing place on planet earth.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Mt. McKinley summit looking down on summit ridge. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move into 14K Camp

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee | June 18, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday June 18th 10:15 pm PT

Today was another early wake up, and then we broke camp and retraced our steps back up to 14K Camp. Everyone did great with the move, and the name of the game for the rest of the day was beating the heat around camp, moving in and mentally preparing for a much deserved day of rest tomorrow. The word on the street is blueberry pancakes could be involved.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

Mt. McKinley's 14K Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Begin Their Mountain Days

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 18, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Thursday June 18th 9:30 pm PT

Hi everybody! Billy here checking in from Kahiltna Basecamp on a gloriously sunny day. We enjoyed a big breakfast this morning in Talkeetna’s Roadhouse and scooted over to the airport to confirm the fact that we’d indeed be flying first thing. A flurry of packing and final weigh-ins preceded the loading of the planes, a group photo, and a smooth departure. The great folks at K2 were really helpful and quickly delivered our team to Basecamp in two simultaneous otter flights. Next thing we knew we were on the ice and having come from summer it felt a bit abrupt but the sun was strong and kept us warm as we got accustomed to our new surroundings. We spent much of the day building our camp, organizing gear and supplies, and rigging sleds for tomorrow’s departure up the hill. The team is psyched for a big adventure and ready to work hard.

All for now!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Flying into Kahiltna Base Camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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Mt. McKinley:  Nugent & Team Ready to Fly!

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 18, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Thursday June 18th 10:20 a.m.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent just called from Talkeetna.  K2 Aviation is ready to fly the team onto Mount McKinley!  Once they are settled into their first camp, Billy will check in with us from the glacier.

The McKinley June 16th team pose for a photo before their flight. Photo: Billy Nugent

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Full Day of Cache Day

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee | June 18, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Wednesday June 17th 10:00 pm PT

We feel like we are finally on the mountain. We woke up early and left camp around 4:30 to cache some gear at 14,000’ Camp. Our attempt to beat the heat worked since we pulled into camp right when the direct sun hit. The rest of the day was spent resting and preparing for the move back up to 14 Camp tomorrow. The boys of el Siete feasted on quesaritos this evening, and are going to sleep with full bellies and full hearts thinking about you all.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

An RMI team carries supplies to 14,000 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

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Recent Images From Mount McKinley

  • 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK with Kahiltna Dome in the distance. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team building walls at high camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Stormy conditions at 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climber ascending the Autobahn on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • RMI Camp at 17,200' on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Fresh Snow at 11,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI team on Squirrel Hill, Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Climbers on the ridge en route to Camp 5 at 17,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.
  • Moving to 11,000' Camp on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The RMI Dining tent at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • The RMI El Siete team on the summit of Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Mike Haugen
  • Climbers ascending the fixed lines on Mt. McKinley en route to High Camp.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Climbers pulling sleds up Mt. McKinleys Ski Hill to 9.500 ft Camp.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Tents covered in snow at McKinley Base Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Pulling sleds up Ski Hill on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection
  • A stormy day at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley, AK for an RMI Team. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • An RMI team traveling across the Polo Fields, Mount McKinley, back to 11K Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Cache at Windy Corner, Mount McKinley, with climbers in the background. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Views of the Cassin Ridge on Mt. McKinley as an RMI team flies into Kahiltna Base. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • K2 lands at Kahiltna Base on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Katy Reid
  • Dave Hahn and team pose for a photo at the K2 Aviation Hangar. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The June 23rd McKinley Expedition ready to board the plane. Photo: Dave Hahn