Entries from Mt. McKinley
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Nick Sinapius, Ben Thorneycroft
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 10,200'
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Monday, May 12, 2025 - 12:17 AM PDT
Today showed us the dichotomy of weather in Alaska. After a cold windy walk yesterday, today’s carry to 10,200' was calm and HOT. We had a pretty leisurely start this morning after getting to bed late last night. Folks enjoyed the sleep, and woke up surprisingly (to them) recovered and feeling well. We left around noon and made good time up to the cache site, dug a hole to hide some things in, and then turned back to our home, enjoying the lighter-weight, downhill walk as the light got long. We got back to camp a bit before it went into the shade and plowed through some burritos as a reward. Sounds like we may see snow tomorrow, so what we do tomorrow will be a gametime decision in the morning. We would like to say Happy Mother’s Day and so many thanks to all the incredible mothers in our lives who give us so much support as well and who let us be in this incredible place!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Nick Sinapius, Ben Thorneycroft, and Team
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Denali Expedition May 8, 2025
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Nick Sinapius, Ben Thorneycroft
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
It was a pretty full day, prepping everything for a few weeks of glacier living and making sure we get it right. We started with an orientation from the Park Service this morning, before diving in to unpacking our kits, and repacking them for the flight to base camp, where we will unpack them again, to pack for climbing. It's a lot of shuffling but we're feeling confident that everything is set to go. And everyone was buoyed as the skies were clear as could be all day. These clear days are when Denali (McKinley) shows off, encased in white and gleaming brightly on the skyline. Weather continues to look good for tomorrow, so we are prepped to fly first thing and get this expedition truly underway!
RMI Guides, Pete, Ben, Nick, and Team
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Denali Expedition May 8, 2025
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Nick Sinapius, Ben Thorneycroft
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
The team all made it without snags yesterday, and we hit the ground running, packing into the shuttle and heading for Talkeetna. After dinner, we ambled down to the river - the mountains were socked in but the icebergs floating by provided the ambience. The amble then magically led our feet to the doors of the Fairview, for a quick pint and an acoustic rendition of despacito. Then to bed in the arctic daylight. We’ll pack tomorrow and things look good for flights on on Saturday!
RMI Guides Pete, Nick, Ben and Team
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Denali Expedition May 8, 2025
Posted by: Brent Okita, Raymond Holt, Mac Nolde, Casey Grom, Roland Scott, Miles Watson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb Led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Roland Scott reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Brent Okita reported a beautiful day on the summit with great route conditions. The team is on the descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon to celebrate.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
Tuesday, July 2, 2024 - 8:15 am PT
So the plan was to walk out in the early morning with the glacier surface frozen up nice and firm. Good plan. But it didn’t freeze. We had a wet snowstorm from 11 PM until 6 AM at our final camp… mostly it just preserved the slush. And then we were socked in with cloud until midday. But when the clouds lifted, we broke records taking down camp and stretching out the rope teams. We were moving at 1PM and then stopped at 1:01 PM figuring out the first crevasse crossing. There were a few thousand more to figure out. Our final day took about six hours and included a couple dozen snowshoed feet and legs going into crevasses, but thankfully no bodies. And magically, as we pulled up the final hill, the weather cleared and two beautiful K2 Otters glided in to the snow strip. We loaded planes and were off deck by 8 PM. There wasn’t much time for gear sorting back in Talkeetna. But there turned out to be time for Mountain High Pizza Pie and the Fairview Inn. The team still has a couple of high altitude hacks, some tired legs and some sunburned faces, but those faces were smiling last night as we settled into the Swiss Alaska Inn.
No summit… it is true. But we tried.
Best Regards
RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
PC: Dave Hahn
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Denali Expedition June 11, 2024
Tony - Wow. Incredible on so many levels. What an experience. Life is what you make of it … and clearly you are making the most of it!
Posted by: Marc on 7/7/2024 at 8:27 am
Congratulations to the guides and climbers on a job well done! Whether in climbing or so many other things, some day’s a diamond, some day’s a stone. Hugs to all. Saying hi to Karen. Hope to see you soon at Green Lake Fitness. We’ll keep the light on for you. Dean
Posted by: Dean Wingfield on 7/2/2024 at 2:45 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 8,000'
Sunday, June 30, 2024 - 10:16 pm PT
It was cold at 14,000' this morning because we didn't wait for the sun to get around the mountain. But the cold was nowhere near what we'd experienced up high. We ate breakfast, packed and got on our way. Back to pulling sleds. We pulled them around Windy Corner, through the Polo Field, down Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills. Down at 11K, we dug up the cache of gear and made our switch to snowshoes. It was a treat to be the only team left on the lower mountain (there are perhaps five or six teams still above us). It was pretty easy going down the Kahiltna Glacier until we reached Ski Hill where the combination of mushy snow and crevasses made things less fun. Even so we made good time reaching 8,000'. We set up camp as clouds rolled in from above and below. Our hope is to have things freeze up in the night to make for safer and easier travel, but with cloud cover, that doesn't always happen. We'll see what we get. Basecamp is potentially just four hours away.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
PC: Dave Hahn
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Denali Expedition June 11, 2024
Bummed you guys didn’t summit.
Was of course hoping you would on July 1st.
I was fortunate enough to summit on July 1st 1994 with Craig John, Ford Huntington , and Jennifer (?) as our guides.
Guess there is always next year.
If any of you see Joe Horiskey tell him Hi for me !
Posted by: Don West on 7/1/2024 at 8:15 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Saturday, June 29, 2024 - 10:10 pm PT
Life is easier at 14,000 ft. It was still a little breezy and cold this morning as we packed up at 17K. It still looked like the wind was howling up above. But of course we had our eyes on a dignified retreat. And a careful one. There were quite a few tricky steps to manage on the descent of the West Buttress. It was a relief to have the fixed rope section completed without incident. We rolled into 14,000' Camp at 5PM and had an easy evening in the sunshine. Yes, we are still a long way up a mountain, but everything is more friendly down in the thicker air. We'll try for 8,000 ft for tomorrow night.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Denali Expedition June 11, 2024
Thinking of you Tony! you got this!!!
Karl and Diane
Posted by: Karl Ring on 7/1/2024 at 7:17 pm
so proud of you guys! proud of the wisdom of your guides, the skill and strength of the team, and wow what stories you will have to share!! much to celebrate when you return!! lynn
Posted by: barbara theiss on 6/30/2024 at 10:12 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 18,850'
The day started out calm, so we started out climbing. We left high camp at 8:30. The day was slightly warmer than the last few, but there was less sun, so it didn't really feel all that warm. We had most of our clothing on for the 2.5-hour journey to Denali Pass. It was a little breezier at the pass, so we didn't rest long there. We got into significant wind and clouds in the next hour pushing up the steep rolls to Zebra Rocks. Finally, we had to call it quits at around 18,850 ft. Storm conditions stayed with us all the way back to high camp. It was a slow descent because of that and some justifiably tired legs.
We were in camp by 6 PM and into the shelter of the tents shortly after. We gave it a good go but got turned by some tough conditions. That happens. We'll begin our descent tomorrow. Some tough and careful climbing is still to come.
Best,
RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Marjerison, Sam Hoffman, Nick Sinapius & Team
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Denali Expedition June 11, 2024
Too bad the weather did not cooperate, Wallis. Great job, nevertheless!! Have a safe climb down.
Posted by: Subbu Aiyer on 7/1/2024 at 6:29 am
So sorry to hear the weather was not cooperative! Great job Jon and to everyone in pushing through for as long as you did in windy conditions, but better safe than sorry! Kudos to the knowledge and wisdom of the guides and team in prioritizing safety. Positive thoughts for a safe and easy descent!
Posted by: Sunita Bendale on 6/30/2024 at 9:01 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
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It was a windy night at high camp, followed by a windy day. More importantly, it was still too windy up on Denali's South Peak for us to make an attempt. Low level clouds have come in, obscuring our views of many of the surrounding mountains. We still have hope for improved conditions tomorrow, but that will likely be our last shot at the top. Given all that, the team has stayed upbeat and excited for a chance to climb.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
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Denali Expedition June 11, 2024
I heard it was a rough day and had to turn back. Job well done to get that far Tony!! I opted for some Double Rye with a friend last night and will do the bourye when you’re down safely! Congrats on what I assume is your altitude record? In TKPhi and Stay safe - Mark
Posted by: Mark Miola on 6/29/2024 at 8:22 am
good luck Katie & team!! Rooting for you!
Posted by: devi mehrotra on 6/28/2024 at 11:01 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
Wednesday, June 27, 2024 - 9:58 pm PT
Still in a holding pattern at 17,000 ft. There were obvious strong winds blowing on our climbing route first thing today. We watched and waited for calming. It did die down a little at midday -too late for climbing- but then the winds roared back to life in the afternoon. We napped, read and generally passed the time. We can walk about a hundred feet from camp to a tremendous view of half of Alaska. The team is hanging in and hoping for a shot.
Best,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Denali Expedition June 11, 2024
fingers crossed for better weather soon!!
Posted by: Seth Cochran on 6/28/2024 at 3:01 am
Keeping good thoughts going the weather is in your favor to summit. Hi Caryn, Love Mom!
Posted by: Divy Karolyi on 6/27/2024 at 3:43 pm
Good luck on this climb of a lifetime!
Posted by: Maxine Hill on 5/10/2025 at 7:47 am
Keep her lit!
Posted by: Sinead on 5/10/2025 at 2:26 am
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