Entries from Aconcagua

Monday, January 17, 2022

After a windy night with little sleep we awoke to a beautiful and sunny day. After a delicious breakfast we packed light packs to head up hill for an acclimatization hike. The wind lingered as we hiked and we remained bundled up even with the sun shining upon us. The air felt thin as we reached Aconcagua's Camp 1 at 5000m (16,000ft). After a quick lunch break the team was feeling good so we continued uphill for another hour to take full advantage of our day. Once we reached our high point we turned around and scooted downhill to a hearty meal of carne asado grilled by the porters. Tonight we hope to sleep like rocks.

RMI Guide Jack Delaney

Sunday, January 16, 2022  4:01 PM PST

After a rough first night at base camp because of the big jump in altitude, we started the day a little slow. We went for a nice casual walk to check out the local penitentes and breathe off the slight headaches that lingered from the night before. It was beautiful walking into the 15’ tall glacier spires. After lunch we got to work sprucing up our camp. The whole team worked really hard shoveling, hoeing, and raking the rock filled dirt into plush flat platforms for our tents. We will sleep better tonight partly because the tents will be more comfy and partly because making the tents more comfy was exhausting. Another beautiful day in the mountains with a great team!

RMI Guide Walt Hailes & Team

Sunday, January 16, 2021 - 11:18 AM PST

The team moved up to Camp 1 at Plaza Canada today, situated at 16,500 feet.  Our packs were noticeably lighter after carrying most of our gear up to camp a few days ago.  We quickly got settled in and shored our tents against the upcoming wind.  Everyone is happy to be above basecamp and starting our push towards the summit. 

RMI Guide Nick Scott & Team

Hola Amigos! It’s finally happened, we have arrived on the mountain! After some last minute packing and eating a lot of empanadas while we waited, we got a weather window and flew into Plaza de Mulas at 14,000 feet. It was one of the most scenic and incredible helicopter flights I’ve ever been on. We settled nicely into our Basecamp, where we will spend the next several days acclimatizing. We’re happy to be here and are going to bed with full bellies thanks to the amazing food and hospitality of the staff at camp.

RMI Guides Walt Hailes & Jack Delaney

After an impressive showing on our Carry Day we decided to let the group rest their weary muscles at before we begin our progression up the mountain. Lots of eating and sleeping are being done today at Basecamp before the meal quality decreases and the altitude does it’s best to rob you of valuable shut eye. I can definitely feel the excitement in the group as all of us are eager to move higher and test our mettle against the mountain. Send good vibes out to the weather gods for us. We are hoping for sunny skies and light winds from here on out. Two things Aconcagua does not provide often.

RMI Guide Nick Scott

Aconcagua 2022! Yes, it’s happening. Covid delayed this trip by a full year but we are all in Argentina, healthy, happy and ready to climb.
I must thank the hard work of Jeff, Autumn, Jack and Luke for working out all the logistics of my covid related delays and making sure that this trip didn’t stop before it ever got started. The whole team is now together in the town of Uspallata, spending tonight in a beautiful hotel a few miles outside Aconcagua National Park. If the weather report holds, we will fly to Base Camp mid-day tomorrow. But until then, we are enjoying more of the friendly people, tasty food and great wine of Argentina.
Our 3 Guardsman, Alden, Brett and Chip are raising money during our climb. We welcome everyone following along with our adventure and thanks for your support and generosity.

RMI Guides Walter Hailes & Jack Delaney

Done and dusted! The team just crushed what is objectively the most difficult day of the trip outside of summit day. The packs are the heaviest, the altitude change is the hardest, and nerves and anxiety are usually pretty high. Everyone is always wondering how they will perform. Well, every member of this crew absolutely styled the carry! I couldn’t be prouder of all of them and all of you friends and family at home should be equally as proud. Now they have the rest of the afternoon to chill and enjoy a huge BBQ lunch prepared by our killer basecamp crew. Woohoo! Feels good to have the first one done. We will be taking another rest day tomorrow to help increase our chances of better acclimating before making the move to Camp one. High fives all around!

RMI Guide Nick Scott

Ode to the Rest Step

My dearest rest step, you are the absolute best

With every foot placement you give us a micro rest

These tests that make climbing the alpine possible 

Even with the heaviest pack you make us feel invincible!

And when you remember to pressure breath we can climb with no reprieve.

Oh rest step, with you we will never stop,

And we will always make the mountain top!

Signed

-unknown 42yr old Portland Poet

Finally! A day to rest, relax, and check out the worlds highest art gallery! Yes you read that correctly. Today, we all had a nice sleep-in before stumbling into our dining tent for a lazy breakfast. The basecamp air was cold and crisp this morning. A welcome change from the hot, dry weather down in the Horcones Valley that we trekked through the day before. After breakfast, the team was given packing lists to prepare for our gear carry to Camp 1 tomorrow. The first carry of the trip is arguably the hardest day outside of summit day due to the weight of the packs. But for now, everyone is putting the thought of back breaking loads out of their minds and focusing on acclimating to our new elevation here at basecamp. Many have already toured the art gallery and purchased a few souvenirs for those of you reading this at home in the States. We will spend the rest of the day watching the frequent mountain showers pass through camp and waiting for the next opportunity to stuff our faces with the amazing food provided by our logistics company Grajales Expeditions. Everyone is doing well and excited to move higher up the mountain! Fingers crossed we have good weather for our trip to Camp One.

RMI Guide Nick Scott

We woke up early today for the long hike to basecamp. The tents were wet from the fog that rolled through moments earlier and was still visible slowly making its way down valley. After a quick breakfast, we packed our duffles for the trip to basecamp began the longest walk of the climb. It would be 10.7 miles over dry, undulating terrain and across streams fed by snow and glacial melt as we slowly gained elevation. It was the clearest and sunniest day so far. Great for sightseeing, not so great when trekking through a high altitude desert. The summit of Aconcagua even managed to make a brief appearance once or twice along the way. After 10 miles of hard walking we made the final push straight up hill for the last .7 into basecamp. The team crushed the trek coming in two hours under the expected time, far outpacing both guides estimates. This team is Muy Fuerte, as they say here in Argentina. We are definitely feeling the altitude here at 14,500', but it’s nothing a rest day can’t fix. Tomorrow we relax and soak in the base camp vibes while planning our move to the upper mountain.

RMI Guide Nick Scott

Tuesday, January 11, 2022 - 10:22 am PT

Our acclimation day at Confluencia Camp started with a hearty breakfast and clear skies.  We then began our day hike to see the South face of Aconcagua.  The ascent was beautiful and paralleled a glacier as we approached Aconcagua.  Finally we reached the view.  Even with the upper portions of the mountain obscured by clouds, the face looked impressive.  On our way down, we found a little rain, but thankfully it let up once we returned to camp.  Now our attention turns to preparing to move to basecamp tomorrow.  

RMI Guide James Bealer