Entries from Alaska

Evening all,

We did it, we flew onto the glacier! Today is a hurry to wait kind of day. In order to be the first to fly, we were the first in line for coffee. On our way to coffee we saw a fox on the railroad tracks. The last time I summited Denali, I saw a fox before flying. So I think this is a good omen. We shall see. Any who, with caffeine surging through our bodies we are ready to fly. Since our odds looked good for flying we said good bye to the flip-flops and hello to our mountain boots. These bad boys would be our mode of transportation for the next few weeks. With the planes ready for us we began shuffling our gear to the planes. Excitement rushes through you as you walk across the tarmac knowing the moment is here. Next stop the Kahiltna glacier. Seatbelts buckled, headphones on, and the smell of the engine signals its time to fly. The views are so beautiful one can not put it into words. Huntington, Foraker, Hunter, peak 11,300 and many more awe-inspring peaks keep us wide eyed and trigger happy on the camera. After a loop up the Kahiltna showing what we will walk on tomorrow we descend into basecamp with a bumpy landing. It's a quick fire line to move the gear from the plane to the glacier before watching our ride fly away. We are on our own now. We decided to bump down to the lower airstrip which gave us practice pulling the sleds. The team is in tip top shape. Once camp is set up we enjoyed some down time followed by a refresher on skills. Some gear sorting and deciding what hot drinks to bring on the mountain led us into our pizza party dinner. Why eat mountain food when you can fly on pizza! It's an early to bed for us since for the next few days we will be on the night schedule, walking during the cool part of a day.  

Tomorrow is the day we take our first steps toward our goal of the summit. Here's to a great journey!

RMI Guides Hannah, Kiira, Dan and Team

Today was a true rest day. We had a casual morning of hot drinks and breakfast. After that we did about an hour review/ practice of fixed line travel and running belays. Then we did nothing. It was glorious. Here’s a list of the various snacks the team ate on our rest day. Cookie dough, Double Stuff Oreos, beef jerky, parmesan cheese, wasabi and soy almonds, watermelon Sour Patch Kids, chorizo, Beecher’s Flagship Cheese, Ritz Crackers, peanut butter, white cheddar, black licorice, Walkie Talkie Chocolate, dried cherries, Knotsberry Farm cookies, sour gummy worms, original Pringles, fireball, Nutter Butters, dried apricots, dill pickle almonds, Goldfish, ranch corn nuts, melkesjokolade, chocolate chip lovers cookie dough, rattlesnake cheddar, ginger chews, salami, Famous Amos Cookies, Keebler Elf M&M cookies.

Tomorrow’s plan will depend on the “nowcast” for what the weather is doing.

After a while crocodiles,

RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the Team

Hello everyone!

Welcome to the start of our Denali Expedition!

The team arrived in Alaska yesterday. After loading 24 duffels into the van, equaling far too many pounds to mention, we made our way to the launching point of our trip: Talkeetna. Talkeetna means where the rivers meet and it is also where many different groups of people meet. It is a dead end down bustling with energy and great food. Tourist from cruises, climbers sunburned and ravenous, fresh climbers with wide eyes and eager all gather at the various restaurants to enjoy a drink and soak in the scenery. 

Today was our prep day to get ready to fly tomorrow. After a scrumptious breakfast and several cups of coffee we headed to the hanger and exploded our gear. Before committing to the glacier we need to make sure everyone has the appropriate gear. The team passed with fly colors. Once all our gear was back in our duffle and backpack we divided the team into two for the planes. First we weighed each climber followed by their backpack and their duffle. We are carrying a lot of weight but looking at this team I think they are going to handle it just fine. With everything weighed and sorted we are set to jet in the morning. As long as the weather holds and clouds stay away, tonight will be our last night in a bed, last time flushing a toilet, and last time with cell service. Here's to disconnecting and enjoying the wilderness of Denali for the next few weeks. 

Climb on,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team 

Brrrrrr! You know what they say “clear skies, cold nights” and boy howdy was that true last night. Thankfully the team has the equivalent of at least two gooses worth of down to stay warm. Sun didn’t hit camp until 9:30 so breakfast was a puffy pants and big parka affair. Thankfully the solar radiation at this altitude works quickly and it was hotter than the center of a hot pocket before we knew it. In order to beat the peak of the days heat we quickly geared up and headed down hill to grab our cache at 13k. We loaded up and trudged back to camp with day dreams of eating the snacks we had cached.  The rest of afternoon was spent lounging and devouring meats, cheeses and cookie dough. Tomorrow is a full rest day where excessive snacking is encouraged!

See ya later alligators!

Avery, Jack, Liam and The Team.

Thursday, June 9, 2022 9:42pm PT

RMI Guide Nikki Champion let us know that their Denali Team was 100% on the summit! They are back at camp resting and will give us full details of their climb soon! 

Congratulations Team! 

June 6 - 4:50 PT

Another beautiful morning for a rest day. Woke up with the sun to a filling meal of breakfast burritos. Weather is looking more optimistic, so we are taking today to rest, prep and pack with the hopes of moving to high camp tomorrow. Otherwise, a generally quiet day at 14 camp.

Hope to check in from 17,000' feet tomorrow!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Greetings from the bottom of Ski Hill. We’ve been keeping our trend of staying on east coast time (3am wake up Alaska time) in order to keep up with the stock market and take advantage of the cooler temps and firm snow. This morning we packed up all our excess supplies and gear and headed uphill to cache them. Conditions were ideal again as we were able to climb without the aid of crampons or snow shoes. Apparently, granola breakfast was the breakfast of champions because the team crushed it! They marched uphill without tiring and kept cheerful smiles while doing it. The sunrise was incredible and even saw what could be described as a non-traditional rainbow in the distant rains near Talkeetna! We soon climbed past the traditional cache spot around 9,500 and stopped just below the last hill to 11 camp. The only reason we didn’t go all the way was to save the experience of seeing what will be our new home for tomorrow.

The afternoon was spent back at ski hill, napping, relaxing, snacking and trading stories. Some of which seemed too good to be true.

The weather is beautiful and so is the team.

Yours Truly,

RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the Team

Saturday June 4, 2022 6:22pm PT

Today we have our first birthday of the trip! Happy Birthday Cris! To celebrate we woke up early to a speedy breakfast of Honey Nut Cheerios. We planned to walk at 8:30 am, but with such cold temperatures this morning we pushed that back and hour and stayed warm in our tents. Once the sun finally hit 14,000’ camp around 9:30 am we began our journey towards the fixed lines. Running through all the gambit of temperatures we made it to the top of the fixed lines, at 16,200', where we decided to cache our personal and group food for the day. After taking a snack, and water break we made our way back downhill. We rolled back into 14,000’ camp, where it is now lightly snowing, and crawled into our tents.

Tonight, will be a mellow evening of Ramen, and prepping for a few much needed days of rest at 14 camp. The team did great, and we are set up well!

RMI Guides Nikki, Taylor, Emma, and Team!

June 3, 2022 – 9:29pm PT

Quiet day over at 14 camp.

We woke up with the sun and had a long breakfast consisting of breakfast burritos and multiple rounds of hots. We spent the rest of the day resting and reviewing fixed line travel before our carry day tomorrow. We hope to wake up early and carry all the way to 17 if everything goes smoothly.

Another great day, with great weather. Check back in tomorrow!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Friday June 3, 2022 - 8:54pm PT

We are on the move! The team woke up at 2AM to break camp, rig sleds, and get walking early in order to finish this first push before the midday heat set in.

The heavy loads couldn’t suppress the bubbling smiles on the faces of the climbers, as the Denali came into view with a glimmering sun behind it.

At the base of ski hill, we made camp and enjoyed a power nap before eating a spicy jambalaya dinner.

The team is feeling strong and stoked to continue upwards!

RMI Guide Liam Weed and Team