Entries from Torres del Paine

Greetings and Hello (Hola) from Chile everyone!

The gang is all here, everyone has safely arrived and it’s great to have the team back together again.

Today was technically a down or rest day for us after all the long fights, but this team isn’t known for sitting around much. So after a nice breakfast and plenty of coffee and catching up, the group headed out to take in a few sights and make the most of our time here.

First up was an impromptu visit to a local natural Museum, filled with countless skeletons of what seemed like every mammal and bird from Chile.
It was remarkable and the highlight was a massive whale skeleton.

Up next we visited a ship museum with replicas of the Nao Victoria (Magellan’s ship), the HMS Beagle (Darwin’s) and the James Caird (Shackleton’s life raft) that he sailed to South Georgia island on.

It was a beautiful day and the crew throughly enjoyed spending time together once again. We’ve just wrapped up a wonderful dinner and celebrated a team members birthday!

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the 8 amigos!

That’s a wrap. We are back at the hotel in Puerto Natales, having completed the full O Circuit with our cups full both figuratively and literally. What an incredible adventure, made even better by a truly great group of people who now feel like old friends.

We woke up this morning to the same strong winds that ushered us into the park at the start of the trip. This time, though, they felt easy to shrug off. A hot shower and a real bed were waiting, which has a way of putting everything in perspective. As we made our way back, we couldn’t help but gawk at the towering mountains and hanging glaciers welcoming us into this beautiful corner of Patagonia, all while reflecting on just how far we had traveled to arrive right back where we began.

The weather on this trip was the best I’ve ever had out here, and that good fortune belonged entirely to this team. From start to finish, it felt like everything lined up just right. Now the only luck we need is choosing which wine to taste next.

This is the Torres trek signing off. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Rain? What the heck is this? Yesterday was supposed to be our rainy day, yet we woke to a beautiful sunrise followed by, somehow, more rain. Begrudgingly, we pulled on rain jackets, pack covers, and zipped every zipper we had. Right on cue, the rain stopped and the sun came out. Of course it did.

The hike from Paine Grande is incredible. As the trail unfolds, you start catching glimpses into the French Valley, where massive cliffs rise straight out of the landscape and hanging glaciers loom quietly above. Every so often, the view pulls your attention the other way, toward the unreal light blue water of the lake below. It feels almost distracting in the best possible way, a constant reminder of just how special this place is and how fortunate we have been with the weather.

We continued up the French Valley to the first lookout, lingering as icefalls calved off the glaciers with deep, echoing crashes. Condors drifted overhead, six of them by our count, likely drawn in by our collective aroma more than the scenery. It is hard to imagine a better place to sit, eat a sandwich, and take it all in.

From there, we descended and followed the shoreline of Lago Nordenskjöld, an extremely Chilean sounding lake, until reaching our final camp of the journey at Cuernos. A lakeside refugio with unforgettable views and even better company.

This trip has officially been the best weather I have ever had. We are lucky, no doubt about it, and tomorrow we are looking forward to real beds in Puerto Natales.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

What was a big day yesterday turned into a restful night. The wind returned and the rained showed up, but we didn't mind. We were in our tents on the right side of John Gardner Pass. 

We began the day by heading down to the lake for a catamaran across the lake to the toe of the glacier. We donned helmets and crampons and were able to experience the views of yesterday first hand. Water bottles were filled by the flowing streams of fresh glacial water and we were able to see carved arches as holes in the ice. Amazing. 

That just meant a late day on the trail, but it's an easier day today with one big uphill and one big downhill. With the rain at our backs we were extra motivated to get to the warm Refugio for some wine and banter. Paine Grande, our Refugio tonight, is the biggest on the circuit and certainly stunning. Time to rest up for our day tomorrow. 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

Today was a shorter day. We woke to the sun painting the sky pink and the wind once again turning our hair into something resembling Gene Wilder on a bad day. The views made up for it, though, and the same wind did us a favor by keeping the mosquitoes away everywhere except inside our tents. These damn things know where we sleep. 

Before hitting the trail we headed down to the beach to get another look at the glacier we had been gawking at the day before. A few splash zone experiences from the waves and a few group pics later, we were on our way. A steady climb brought us to a vantage point with two competing views: the Dickson Glacier behind us and the valley ahead that leads to tomorrow’s crux, John Garner Pass.

Tomorrow we will be up dark and early for our final day before transitioning from the O portion to the W portion of the trek. For now, we eat some cake and drink some wine to celebrate yet another birthday!! Happy Birthday, Catherine!! Wish us luck.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

PC: Dominic Cifelli

After a windy but restful night, we woke to grand views and the realization that we were truly doing the thing. We were on the trip we had imagined for so long. A delicious breakfast and a strong cup of coffee later, we were ready to hit the trail.

Today began with another traverse along the Paine River, winding through the trees while doing our best to avoid the ever-present branches aimed directly at our eyes, courtesy of that bastard walking just ahead. Eventually, an uphill stretch appeared to wake up the lungs and legs. We welcomed it, even if no one was quite ready to admit that out loud. That’s part of why we do this. Yes, the views are incredible, but earning them through effort makes them that much sweeter.

That climb marks one of the best moments of the day. Somewhere along the way, we cross an invisible threshold, leaving behind the savannah-like terrain and stepping into the Patagonia we all pictured. Sharp peaks rise above us, glaciers cascade down their flanks, and lakes glow with that unmistakable milky blue. The scene is made even better by the outstanding weather we’ve been lucky enough to enjoy so far.

Tonight, we rest at Dickson, my personal favorite camp of the trip. It sits beside a glacial lake fed by the meltwater of the Dickson Glacier. With a bit of luck tomorrow morning, everyone will get to see the glacier in its full grandeur as we walk along the lakeshore after breakfast. It should be quite the treat.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

After our big day yesterday, it was time for another alpine start. In the wee hours of 10am we began our trek on the O Circuit. The first section of our loop around the Towers. Today is a mellow day, especially compared to the hike to the base of towers. Taking half the time and climbing a fraction of the elevation. Today could be called an active rest day. A term that anyone who has climbed with me in the past would poke fun at me for suggesting. 

We weave and wind our way through the foothills of the mountains, mostly hiking through the low desert like terrain that certain parts of Patagonia offer. While enjoying the sweeping views that a lack of tall trees lends us a beautiful blue river, the Paine River, carves the landscape and we follow it all the way to Seron Camp. An open field with big views and a cozy hut where we will eat dinner. Tomorrow is a bigger day, but one that ends in my favorite camp of the whole trek, Lago Dickson. Wish us luck and keep hoping for clear skies!! 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Today was the day, the official start of the trek. After a quaint and much-needed rest day spent packing, recouping, and doing our best to actually rest, we were ready to get rolling. We did just that, bright and early at 5:30 a.m., scarfing down breakfast and hitting the road before the sun had fully risen. 

Day one does not ease you in. Instead, it opens with one of the hardest efforts of the entire trek: the park’s namesake, Las Torres. Three striking granite spires rise abruptly from the landscape, as if carefully carved by a patient but dramatic hand. They are awe-inspiring to behold, but getting to them is not for the faint of heart. The hike takes roughly five hours on the way up, followed by a long and careful four-hour descent down a narrow, well-traveled trail. It is a big day by any measure, and the team met it with equal parts grit, good humor, and quiet determination.

Tomorrow we officially begin the O Circuit and make our way to our first camp. For now, we rest, refuel, and celebrate a job well done, along with a very Happy Birthday to our teammate Kathy. ��

Rmi Guide Dominic Cifelli 

Monday, February 2, 2026 - 7:00 pm PT

We’re off to the races. Today marks the start of our trip, and while we are not trekking just yet, we managed to pack in plenty of sightseeing.

The morning began bright and early, traveling along the Strait of Magellan to Isla Magdalena, a small island about an hour and a half away by boat, to spend time among the penguins. What a place. Penguins and a wide assortment of seabirds stretch as far as the eye can see. Honks, chirps, and the whistling wind fill the air as we walk among them, pause for the habitual jaywalkers to cross, and then continue on. The penguins seem completely unfazed by our presence, waddling past with total confidence and a complete lack of athleticism, going about their routines as if we are just another feature of the landscape. An incredible experience and a perfect way to begin the journey.

We have now picked up the last of our teammates, delayed by the infamous snowy weather the Carolinas are known for, and settled into Puerto Natales, our launch pad for the trek. Gear checks, souvenir shopping, and a much needed rest await us tomorrow. We are excited to be here in this fjord side town and ready to begin the trek ahead.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

Ahh the end of a trip like this is always so bittersweet. Tired, sore, hungry we leave the trail happy and satiated with the journey, and yet we have to leave this breathtaking landscape and national park. Us, and everyone around us, will be very happy with a shower when we get back into Puerto Natales tonight. 

Our last day is one of the hardest. A long, steep ascent up the valley to see the namesake of the park, Las Torres (The Towers of Paine). It’s about 11km each way with almost 3000 ft of ascent and our ached bodies felt every bit of it. Up up up until we were treated with yet another beautiful fricken day. Just our luck. 

Waking up at 430 to pack, eat breakfast, and head up to avoid the crowds. And boy are we glad we did. I call the descent the Disney world descent due to the crowds that come into the park in order to complete the relatively accesible hike. And so we weaved in an out of folks fresh from town and worked our way toward the promised land ( the van) 

We’re showered, sore, and now heading toward dinner for our last night together. This trip has been incredible not only because of the views, but because of the strangers turned friends we met 10 days ago in Punta Arenas. We all can’t wait to fill you in with the stories we have and the pictures we took. See you soon. 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli