Entries from Machu Picchu

We woke up with a little pep in our step after a good night’s rest at lower altitudes.

Today was our shortest day on the trail, and it came at exactly the right time after two big days and more ahead. After a leisurely breakfast — oat bread (a crowd favorite), quinoa porridge, breakfast sandwiches, and as much hot cocoa and coffee as we could physically put down — we hit the trail.

Descending for a couple hours, we took our time and stopped to learn about the plants, herbs, and flowers along the way. We stopped by the river and sat in silence for some minutes, everyone on their own rock, listening to what Edgar called “the music of Pachamama.” Peaceful, and a good reminder that you can do this anywhere, just sit and listen to birds and moving water, you don’t need to be at 12,000 feet in Peru to remember that. Though it helps.

We visited our first archaeological site on trail, then said goodbye to our horses and wranglers. From here on, we’re on the official Inca Trail, porter team and all.

The afternoon was ours. Rest, laundry, lying in the sun. A campsite chess match. Meanwhile the local chickens and roosters strutted through camp like they owned the place (they might.)

Well-earned, all of it, before tomorrow’s big climb up to Dead Woman’s Pass.

Everyone is doing well. Chess champions, laundry doers, chicken diplomats, the whole crew.

- RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Machu Picchu team

We had just arrived at Incachiriaska pass — over 16,000 ft. Everyone was sitting on the rocky ridge, breathing deeply after a big climb to get there. The guides were constantly reminding people to be careful and thoughtful with movement since both sides of the pass opened up into expansive views (and big falls lines.)

Edgar was just beginning to tell us about how the Andean people believe the mountains are holy. We had all picked up a rock on the way up. The bigger the rock for the bigger the sinner, Edgar joked. (Some of us even carried multiple rocks. Are we overachievers or perhaps have much to atone for? Who’s to say.)

But just as Edgar started to speak, a soaring condor flew, I kid you not, 20 feet above us through the pass. As if he was looking right at us, as if he was saying some important message to each of us that we needed to hear.

You could tell it was special because Edgar, who has lived his whole life in these mountains and been guiding for more than 20 years, stood in awe. His eyes wide as he whispered, “stay quiet.”

We watched as the massive bird sailed through the air, we watched as he in both an instant and an eternity soared away.

The feeling of awe is ever-present here but in that moment it was felt deeply. Nobody moved. Nobody spoke. We just stood there, sixteen thousand feet up, watching.

We stayed a little longer at the pass, creating a stack of all our carried rocks as an offering to Pachamama. The condor continued to circle back a time or two but never as close as the first time.

Soon, we packed our bags, lengthened our trekking poles for the steep scree below and started our long descent to camp. We moved down and down nearly 4,000 vertical feet, back into soft grasses and birds chirping and the water rushing next to us. After many miles and hours, we arrived at our camp at 12,000ft.

The air is thicker, the temps are warmer and with full bellies from another delicious dinner, we tucked into our tents for the night. But not without the seared memory in our minds of the condor so close it felt like we were friends.

What a world.

- RMI Guide Jess and the Machu Picchu team

Hola!

We left Cusco long before sunrise, trading city lights for a winding, bumpy road that climbed steadily into the Andes. By the time we reached the trailhead, the sun was out and so were the mountains. The serac-laced slopes of Humantay and Salkantay both standing over 20,000 feet stopped us still. Today we met the rest of the team who will make this journey possible. Diego is joining us as a guide, and Pancho is our head chef (he's already far exceeded our expectations by serving up trucha, local trout, for lunch that we all deemed the best we’ve had this whole trip.) After days of travel, packing, reorganizing and checking gear, it was a relief to finally shoulder a pack and start hiking. We quickly settled into the simple rhythm of the trail: one step after another through mountains that people have called home and traveled across for generations. The highlight of the day was arriving at our camp at nearly 15,000 feet. We’re right at the foot of Salkantay — the mountain towers over our camp and we couldn’t stop looking up. Watching the clouds and the fading sunlight in a dance across the jagged slopes.

A pinch me moment for every single one of us.

We piled in the dining tent for an early dinner. One full of laughs & ease. After getting our hot water bottles (a necessity, it’s brrr cold up here) we headed for an early bedtime. But not before seeing the Milky Way and one million stars holding the sky.

What a dream.

Jess and the Machu Picchu team

Hello from Cusco, on our last night before the trail!

Today started about as well as a day can start: alpacas, llamas, guanacos, and vicuñas, all of them looking slightly like cartoons come to life, all of them very willing to be fed by hand. Pure, uncomplicated joy.

We learned all about the fibers and the natural dyeing techniques from bugs to plants and had a chance to shop, of course.

From there, up to Sacsayhuamán, the massive stone fortress above the city, and then down on foot into Cusco itself for a walk through the old imperial center. “Stone with stone, no element in between,” Edgar told us, pointing out joints so tight you couldn’t slide a knife between the blocks. Limestone, interlocking, no mortar, nothing but precision holding it together. The Incas had a passion for perfectionism.

After a few more stops at the convent and the cathedral, we took some time to go through our gear and pare it down for the trail. We also have a passion for perfectionism, or something.

And then, the main dinner event — cuy. Guinea pig. A full plate and a genuinely brave showing from this group. Verdict, once everyone had worked up the nerve: chewy. Very chewy. Chewy cuy, we said. Would we order it again? Debatable. Do you have to try it once in Cusco? Also yes.

Bags are packed, boots are ready, and tomorrow we drive to the trailhead.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Machu Picchu team

Hello from the Sacred Valley! Today felt like someone hit a fast-forward button on wonder.

We started at the Maras salt mines, which are, visually, out of this world. Thousands of small terraced pools cut into the mountainside, all fed by a single underground spring. Salty because this land used to be ocean floor millions of years before it was mountains. The Andes basically pushed the sea up and out and left the salt behind. People have been harvesting it by hand the same way for centuries.

We also met Edgar, our local guide, who’s with us for the rest of the trip. He walked us through the history and the agriculture of it all with this quiet, easy authority. The kind of person you feel lucky to be learning from.

From there, Moray. An old agricultural site built in circular terraces. Each ring its own microclimate which the Incas apparently used to figure out what would grow where. Hot sun, curiosity and a lot of walking and talking.

Lunch was box lunches by a still lake, Urubamba mountains in front of us, two baby alpacas grazing about ten feet away. The cutest little faces you’ve ever seen. Genuinely one of the better lunch spots of my life.

After a little rest, we had dinner in Cusco square: Japanese-Peruvian fusion. Does it seem like we’re only eating the best food ever? Okay good. Because we are…

Big day but we’re all doing well adapting to life at nearly 11,000 feet and looking forward to more tomorrow!

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Machu Picchu team

Hello from Cusco!

We made it. Though “made it” is a relative term for a group that survived delayed flights, rebooked tickets, and enough all-night travel to qualify as its own endurance event. But every duffel and every human is here, upright, and (mostly) coherent. We’ll take it.

Today’s whole job was: recuperate. And that we did. Some wandered the streets a bit, some rested and most of us consumed our first coca and muña teas. Definitely not our last.

Then this afternoon we gathered for our first team meeting — introductions, the shape of the next 10 days, and the buzz of a team coming together.

Cusco is not a city you see, it’s a city you feel. With its narrow cobblestone streets, worn smooth by about a thousand years of foot traffic. Terracotta pots hang off white walls. Immovable gray stone sits shoulder to shoulder with European facades, and somehow none of it argues with the other. Then color just erupts everywhere it can: pinks, blues, greens, color forever.

We closed the day with our first team dinner. Authentic Peruvian — lomo saltado, osobucco, potatoes and corn galore. (Nom nom nom, no notes.)

Ten days, one incredible crew, and Salkantay and Machu Picchu waiting on the other side. We’re just getting started.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Machu Picchu team

Hola hola hola!

This morning, some of us woke up early just one more time - we took the buses back up the hill, went through the entrance of Machu Picchu and climbed Huayna Picchu.

You know the mountain in the background of all those iconic photos of Machu Picchu? That’s Huayna Picchu! We rallied (even after 6 days of trekking!) for just a *few* more steep stairs to the summit.

We were greeted with sunshine and full views of Machu Picchu and all the surrounding landscape. We celebrated a birthday (HBD Courtney!!) and took all the photos. It was beyond remarkable and a great way to wrap up this trip.

This afternoon on the 4-hour train from Machu Picchu back to Cusco, we had some time to reflect on our adventure. We stepped out of our comfort zones to explore new cultures, new altitudes, new food and so much more. We came together as a team and learned so much about ourselves along the way.

Tomorrow we’ll all fly home but we’ll carry everything — the hard moments, the funny moments, the inspiring stories of the Incas and their ancestors — with us for a lifetime.

Until next time, Peru!

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Machu Picchu team

PC: Jess Wedel

Sunday, August 25, 2024 - 3:26 am PT

We made it to Machu Picchu!

Wow, what a day. We woke up and walked the final few hours to the Sun Gate. It was a little cloudy but we still had views of Machu Picchu below.
We spent the morning exploring the different sites - the Sun Temple, the Palace Quarters, the Temple of the Condor and so much more! Then we took the bus downhill to Aguas Calientes where we all enjoyed a shower and delicious dinner.

Tomorrow, we get to go back to the park and climb Huayna Picchu. For now, we are sleeping happily in warm beds.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the team
 

Saturday, August 23, 2024 - 6:52 pm PT

“Good morning my friend!” Elbin says every morning as he wakes us up with hot tea and coffee at our tents with a big huge smile. Today was no different. We woke up looking into a valley of moving clouds, packed all our stuff, had a quick breakfast and hit the trail. One last big day was ahead.

We stopped at archeological sites, went up and down two more passes and finally arrived at Winay Wayna - our final camp before Machu Picchu. We were on the trail for over eight hours walking the 600-year old stone path.  Tonight, we celebrated all the people that helped make this trek possible - our porters, cooks, and local guides! Complete with a freshly baked cake. We can’t say enough about how incredible they have made this experience.

Tomorrow we have just two hours to walk until we arrive at Machu Picchu and we are all looking forward to it.

Woo hoo!!

RMI Guide Jess and the team

Hi dear readers!

It was our first day joining up with the Inca trail and what a day it was! Up, up, up we went from 9,800 feet all the way to nearly 14,000 feet at Dead Woman’s Pass. Step by step we walked together. Everyone did awesome and the views were spectacular. The sun was beating down on us for most of the day but just before the pass we got some reprieve as clouds moved it and cooled down the temperatures. Then we descended into our next camp, Pacaymayo, which means “hidden river”. It’s a beautiful and remote camp with views looking into the valley and no one around for miles.

We were greeted by our incredible support team with smiles and cheers! Every day we arrive to camp with our tents already set up and water ready for drinking. We couldn’t do this without them!

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Machu Picchu team