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Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Sitting Sassy at Seventeen

June 19, 2014 - 6:43 pm PT

Today on our next to last day for up hill travel we got the window we needed! The no troubles crew had no trouble with our move, reaching our high camp at 17,200ft! An early departure from our 14K camp meant cold hands and feet as we approached the fixed lines, but by the time we reached our first break the sun had crested the ridge to our south. We basked in the most welcome UV, and continued up to the base of the fixed lines without feeling the bite of the -5F temperatures.

We dispatched the fixed lines without incident, and were soon taking a break in a crisp little nook on the buttress proper. High, wispy clouds took the heat right out of the sun, and the constant winds reminded us of our arctic location. The last little bit of steep fixed line at Washburn’s Thumb posed no issues, and we climbed into some of the most spectacular terrain of the West Buttress.

Steep walls fell away on both sides as we climbed the last stretch into camp, and soon we had reclaimed a couple of tent platforms, set up our shelter and had stoves running for water. The constant burn is a reminder of our high location and is helping to drown out the stiff northeast breeze currently moving through camp.

Tomorrow looks like it’ll be our window for a summit attempt, provided the winds die down and the temperatures stay reasonable. We’re psyched for the camaraderie of sharing camp with Jake Beren’s team, and look forward to being on the route with them tomorrow. Wish us luck!!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones and The No Troubles Team

On The Map

Comments (9)

Hi Dad!  I really miss you. I have been having trouble sleeping, thinking of you on that cold mountain in an igloo, when I am here in my warm dogloo.  I am very proud of you. Hope you are having an amazing adventure. Abby,Lulu and Goldie all say “ruff ruff ” to you !
      Love, Boone

Posted by: Boone Stenderup on

Hi David J. and the great No Troubles Team! I was so excited today when I saw that you got to 17,000 ft.!!!!! I can’t wait to hear of your summit and see those awesome pictures! I doubt that you will be on the plane on Sunday. I will wait to hear from you when you get down. Love you and enjoy the rest of your adventure!! Pam

Posted by: Pam Johnson on

Hey Dave well it sounds you have had a awesome trip so far. Am praying you get to the summit and conquer the mt. as planned. Enjoy your time up there. See you when you get back.  Judy

Posted by: Judy Arbogast on

Waiting anxiously for news of the days adventures and hoping that the weather is cooperating!  What an amazing journey you all have been on!  I am praying for your safe return !


Posted by: Patty Stenderup on

Hope you all made it up today. Sending much positive energy and many good thoughts your way Dave and crew! Stay strong!
Julie and Karla

Posted by: Julie and Karla on

So excited for you Jen and your team. You must be on your way up or down from the summit. Hugs and prayers heading your way. Stay strong and confident. Love you.

Posted by: Aunt Marie on

Good luck, guys!!!!

Posted by: Ben Alvarez on

That’s awesome news team!! Here’s hoping the weather finally cooperates and provides the needed window!!

Posted by: Paul Kinneberg on

Wow, what a trip it’s been. Way to go team. Fingers crossed for you. All my love and warm thoughts for your attempt. Love Dad.

Posted by: Nick Boekenoogen on

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More Updates


June 20, 2014

Five Day Summit Climb

Mt. Rainier: June 20th SUMMIT!


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move Into 14K Camp

June 12, 2014

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move Into 14K Camp

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