Entries from Mt. McKinley
Friday June 12th 11:25 pm PT
Upon our late arrival at Base Camp the weather started turning nasty, so we set up tents and burrowed into our sleeping bags. Lo and behold, upon awakening the skies had cleared and the mountain beckoned! We broke camp and descended the Southeast Fork Kahiltna to the Main Fork, turned up-glacier and headed toward
Camp 1. The glacier route is in prime condition and we reached our camp in several hours taking in the spectacular mountain views around us. Everyone in the team is doing great and looking forward to our next objective, Camp ll. More later!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Friday June 12th 10:30 pm PT
A blog post brought to you by Kim, Pete and Phillip:
We awoke to clear blue skies and stellar views of the
Alaska Range. It was followed by an exquisite breakfast of fluffy blueberry and granola pancakes, topped with a wild cherry compote. Then we made a six-feet deep hole and went to "The Edge of the World".
Weather is looking better and we are hopeful that we will move up the mountain this weekend.
We are looking forward to moving higher up on the mountain, since we are all rested up having slept more in the past few nights than we have in the last month. Clearly we are enjoying the mountain lifestyle, but ready for the next challenges.
Viele Grüße vom Berg, cheers
The Gang
P.S. Hi Sophia! XO love Aunt Kim
Friday June 12th 10:10 pm PT
Fortress at 14k on
Mount McKinley!
Today was a clear day but the winds raged as the high pressure slowly comes our way!
The fortress of snow-block walls now fully encloses our tents and cook house with an entry straight from stone hedge! A giant block caps the archway leading into our dojo!
The wind still whips as plumes of blowing snow briefly create little to no visibility in camp. A blue bird day that is hampered by a ground blizzard. If you ask me this is what the experience of
Denali is all about. In the next few days the wind will likely subside and crystal clear skies, warm and breathless air will remain. Fingers crossed we will get our perfect day to climb and stand atop the highest point in North America. Till then we'll hang low in our tents basking in our BO stir fry;).
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
After some long trips from our respective homes, our crew arrived in Anchorage and formed the super team, "El Siete" (RMI Team Seven). We made the journey to
Talkeetna, AK the day before yesterday and started to prepare for our flight onto the mountain. We spent yesterday packing in the hanger. The weather did not seem to be on our side and the probability of us flying into base camp on time seemed very small. We figured we would be joining all of the other teams that had been doing the "Talkeetna Wait" for days. We woke up today anticipating that we would not fly this morning and we were not wrong. After a good breakfast, lunch, and a few wanders around town, we planned on getting a pizza and watching the NBA finals. As soon as the crew started to get into the game, the flight service called and told us there was a small window for us to fly.
So here we are on the glacier ready to climb the big one. If you did not get a call from us before we left, we were in a mad rush and we will get back to you after we summit!
RMI Guide
Mike Haugen & Team
June 11, 2015 11:17pm PST
What a day! We woke early to begin the day's nowcasting (real time weather) to see if it was workable to put a cache higher on the mountain.
Motorcycle Hill stayed more or less visible throughout breakfast, so we decided to give it a shot. As we climbed higher the weather smiled upon us. Little wind and some good reports from our friends up at 14 Camp and we just kept on trucking. Arriving at 14 Camp was a real treat. Hugs from the other RMI teams as well as a pre dug cache hole made for a solid foray to our future home. Thanks again guys!
Now back down in camp at 11, we are about to sleep. Tomorrow we plan to rest. With any luck our forecast for improving conditions (thanks guys) verifies and we hope to move higher soon.
June 12, 2015 3:52pm PST
Ahhhh. It has been a great day today. So far we have had a leisurely brunch followed by some excellent chatting in our kitchen tent. Then some spice sampling followed by headstand yoga practicing. Now the team is napping and reading. The weather has been quite pleasant here in camp, but sure looked windy up high this morning. All in all a perfect day to sit tight and recover after a few big days of climbing. With any luck Denali will let us up a little higher tomorrow. If so, we'll be ready.
RMI Guide
Jake Beren & Team
June 11, 2015 10:02pm
With unsettled weather upon us we slept in this morning had a nice brunch and spent the afternoon reviewing some technical skills. We discussed some of the techniques we will use and practiced removing and stowing various types of gear as we climb. The team is anxious to get climbing but there is nothing we can do until the weather improves. For now we are enjoying long meals, funny stories, and some good naps. That's all for now. Thanks for following along and keep your fingers crossed for some good weather up here on
Denali.
RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens & Team
Thursday June 11th 5:50 pm PT
Again we remain at
14,000 foot camp as we wait for the weather to turn for a summit bid. The snow keeps coming down around here like coconut flakes sprinkled on ice cream.
We did take advantage of a short break in the clouds this morning to walk to the Edge of the World, a viewpoint to the northeast fork of the Kahiltna several thousand feet below. Waddling out onto the saddle rock is an existential experience indeed, having all that air underneath you really makes you feel alive!
After our trek to the Edge of the World, we enjoyed a nice mid-morning brunch. With chilly temperatures and a light breeze we crawled back into our tents for an afternoon reading session. A few hours later we greeted
Jake's team, who carried from 11K Camp. It was nice to see his team, they all seemed to be doing well.
Keep sending good weather vibes our way!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Wednesday June 10th 5:30 pm PT
Today brings more snow to
Mt. McKinley at 14,000ft. After coffee, bagels and bacon everyone spent a few hours lounging in their tents before starting the afternoon projects. The camp project consisted of building an enclosed toilet. A true architectural feat, I might add. The secondary project was a remodel of the posh tent, which consisted of lowering the floor to give us a bit more headroom.
Our camp looks great and hopefully we will get some good weather coming our way this weekend.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Wednesday, June 10th 10:15 pm PT
The winds subsided enough today to allow us safe passage back to our buried cache at
9,600 feet. It was a fun stroll and though we broke trail in a full whiteout to get there, we enjoyed extremely pleasant walking conditions on our quest for the rest of our snacks.
The afternoon held time for a nap and a review of climbing techniques before dinner. If the weather cooperates we are set to jet and bump a load higher on the route tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
All of the pieces are in place for an attempt on the
Upper West Rib, now we are just waiting on the weather. With yesterday's carry to 16,400ft we have had a chance to stress our bodies and progress the acclimatization process.
The weather in the Alaska range can be a fickle thing. Moisture from the south mixes with frigid temperatures from the north, and the resulting scale of weather can be anything from light snow flakes to true arctic blizzards. Right now we are in a holding pattern waiting for the snow to stop. It has only snowed a few inches today, but two feet are predicted for the coming 48 hours. With our shovels at the ready we are waiting to see if the prediction comes true.
There is a silver lining to the forecast, however. It appears as though after this round of snowfall, the weather will stabilize and we may get our window to climb. That is still a few days out, but we are hopeful. The highlight around camp today was a potluck style lunch. After two weeks on the glacier a little variety in the daily diet was a welcomed change.
Thanks for following along, and if anyone feels like overnight shipping a snowblower and a few gallons of gas our way, it would be much appreciated.
RMI Guides Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank and the UWR team.
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Glad all is going well. We had dinner with the family tonight. We all are very excited for you.
Love
Mom and Dad
Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 6/13/2015 at 6:47 pm
Hi Aunt Kim!!! Thanks for giving me a shout-out on the mountain- now I’m famous!! Good Luck with your big climb!!!
Xoxoxo
Sophia
PS I wouldn’t want to be with a bunch of boys- they may have cooties!
Posted by: Sophia Rose on 6/13/2015 at 3:29 pm
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