Entries from Mt. McKinley
Hello from the Kahiltna Glacier! We woke to frigid temperatures on our first morning, with the temperatures reaching negative 25 F. Thankfully the sun came out to play and things quickly warmed up for us. We enjoyed our first day exploring the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
Everyone is doing great. We'll check in soon.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
Yesterday morning at 1 AM there were unfamiliar voices outside our tents at 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier. Someone was calling my name and so I poked my head out into the gloom and falling snow. I was a little surprised to see several of the guides from the teams we'd assumed were still up high on the mountain. The guides pointed to their combined teams taking a restbreak a few hundred feet away and in the poor light I could make out about 40 climbers. They were making a break for the airstrip and they wanted to know if I'd join in with my team. I looked down-glacier through the snow and murk to see... not a whole lot actually, but I quickly warmed to the idea of joining what would be a very strong effort in the route-finding and crevasse detection department. The other teams very graciously waited the hour-and-a-half that it took for us to fire our stoves, eat breakfast and break camp. And then, just as we were roping up, the super team got their packs on and other guides began the process of breaking trail and finding a way. This was a very sweet deal for our team as we merely hopped in at the back of the line and followed along, neatly sidestepping any holes that those near the front of the column had discovered the hard way. I'd somehow assumed that they'd woken me because they wanted me to find the way, but that wasn't the case at all and several very capable guides took turns themselves over the next six hours of working through cloud and murk and snow. It was quite a procession as fifty climbers on about 14 different ropes wound their way down the glacier. These numbers represented every climber left on the mountain... It would be a clean sweep to end the season. My own team's spirits were lightened considerably as we learned that none of the other climbers had summited either and that in fact the storms we'd largely avoided by dropping lower on the mountain were indeed big and mean and real on the upper mountain. Most of all though, my climbers were just happy to be climbing again after two long days sitting around waiting for conditions to improve. By the time we reached basecamp... Or more correctly, the place where Basecamp had been (since there was now nothing but an empty and beautiful glacier) the weather was getting better and some blue sky was developing. We built our tents though and tried not to get our hopes up for an immediate flight. The super group of fifty had one mission in common remaining as we all got out with our snowshoes on to stomp down a strip of snow to give planes an easier takeoff. Sure enough, we'd barely begun to nap when engines were heard and a mad scramble began. K2 Aviation had two big red DeHaviland Otters on skis in for us in no time at all and we were whisked off the glacier and back to Talkeetna by 5 PM. That left enough time for a quick gear sort and a long shower for each climber before dinner. Over burgers and salads at the West Rib, we had a blast toasting and laughing at ourselves and each other as we replayed the high and low points of a fine adventure in the mountains. The nightcap was at the Fairview Inn and then finally we were each in real beds again and sleeping in comfort and safety back in civilization.
Much thanks to guides Lindsay Mann and Geoff Schellens and Zeb Blais for their hard work and to the entire team for being such good sports. And of course thanks to Denali for keeping it all interesting.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
very nice pic!
Posted by: michelle on 7/20/2011 at 4:34 am
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Geoff Schellens, Lindsay Mann and Zeb Blais along with their great crew of climbers have now made the final walk down to the airstrip. Clouds around the mountain have prevented any planes from getting in today. However, the team is excited to be in position to load those planes as soon as the weather clears enough to fly.
We look forward to hearing from the team once they are back in Talkeetna (hopefully soon)!
Can’t wait to hear from you Wayne, Yippppppeeeeeeeeee, love Dinah and Sue
Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/18/2011 at 4:47 pm
This is Dave Hahn calling from 7,800’ on Mt. McKinley…still. We had another night of clouds and snow last night so we couldn't get our early start and walk out. Then the rest of the day was pretty much socked in and white as well. It is now 8:30 in the evening and it is snowing hard again.
So we're still sitting waiting for our chance to make a break for the air strip. It was a long day and a quiet day today. No airplanes were flying overhead it seemed like there was storm all around and at all levels. But we're doing alright. Everybody is fed and dry and in their sleeping bags now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Sending positive vibes for the weather to cooperate to make your decent to the airstrip. Will have longer to plan the homecoming celebrations. love Dinah and Sue
Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/18/2011 at 11:21 am
There wasn't much chance to finish the journey this morning as it snowed until about 8 AM. By nine the sun was poking through and we knew we couldn't count on the glacier surface being firm enough for safe travel. So we sat for the day and waited for a clear and cold night. We've waited through many days on this trip and this was one of the tougher ones. Denali was out in all of its glory and although from a distance we could no longer tell just how much snow it had gotten or how hard the wind might be blowing, it sure looked climbable. Our climbing tomorrow morning will be in the other direction, but these will surely be the most important steps we take on the entire trip. The lower glacier in mid-July demands respect. We'll get moving by three or four in the morning and will try to reach the airstrip by 9 or 10.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Dr. Spencer Guinn, What an amazing journey! We miss you and can’t wait to hear some stories! We will be praying for you & the entire team’s safe return! -Your OR Family
Posted by: Susan Webb on 7/17/2011 at 4:06 pm
safe safe trip down!
Posted by: michelle on 7/17/2011 at 11:47 am
7800' Kahiltna Glacier
We had high hopes this morning at 14 Camp. The sky was clear and although we could see signs of wind up high on Denali's South Peak, we believed we could finally get up to 17,200'. At least we felt that enthusiasm until just after breakfast when I used the satellite phone to track down the weather forecast. It called for snow. It actually called for lots of snow... Like 30 inches in the next 24 hours. This was difficult information to reconcile with the sparkling blue sky and brilliant sunshine we were then enjoying. And it was particularly hard to reconcile such a possibility of big snow with our diminished food supplies. I gathered the team and gave them the hard conclusion the four guides had reached: we could not go up with such a prediction on our 17th day of a 22 day trip. If the forecast were even half right, we'd be trapped at 17,000 ft waiting for avalanche conditions to stabilize and by the time we were on our way down the mountain we wouldn't have enough food to deal with any further setbacks to our progress. In mid-July with no Park Service personnel on the mountain and with no well-worn track in the snow and with plentiful crevasse puzzles to solve down low on the glacier, we needed to anticipate further challenges to our descent of the mountain. We could no longer look up the hill. In fact, we couldn't even sit at 14 Camp long enough to see if the dire snow predictions came true since such a snowfall would set up a significant avalanche hazard threatening our route down to 11,000'. It was a tough thing then to let go of our summit ambitions while the sun was shining and while we still had food and fuel and while the remaining teams on the mountain reached seemingly opposite conclusions as to how to deal with the storm. But we packed up anyway and started carefully down the mountain. Ever so slowly, the clouds moved in, but we still had great views from Windy Corner and excellent traveling conditions down through 11 camp. It got a bit murky and mushy as we pushed down onto the main Kahiltna Glacier and we needed to be careful of sagging snow bridges on the crevasses of Ski Hill, but that all worked out fine. In just over six hours we reached 7800' and called a halt to the day's march. Time for dinner and some rest in our tents. The glacier surface is soft, soggy and not terribly supportive and the light is flat... Not ideal conditions for taking on complicated crevasse fields. We ate dinner and got in our tents as the snow began to fall. Our focus is now on completing the final push to the airstrip, but on our terms -when conditions are favorable.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
To Dave and the team, Sending warm wishes for a safe return down the mountain. I have infinite thanks to Dave and the team for maintaining safety as the number one priority. To all of the climbers (especially John M)- we are all so proud of you. Though your summit bid plans had changed, I am inspired by the journey you took to get there. I can imagine this being a memorable experience for each and everyone of you. I applaud you all for your inspiring patience, outstanding discipline, and stellar persistence in moving up Mount McKinley. Cheers to you all!!
Posted by: Jennifer on 7/16/2011 at 10:22 am
Dear Daddy and Dave and team
We know you weren’t just there to tick off a box we know that you were just there to have fun!!!!!!You’re the best dad ever and you’re very brave
From Claire and Sietse
Posted by: Claire and Sietse on 7/16/2011 at 9:58 am
Still at 14,200', I'm afraid. There was a cloud cap sitting on Denali at 7:45 this morning when we started checking weather. The cap meant snow and wind were working over the camp at 17,200' and so we weren't anxious to head that way without some improvement. That cap dropped lower as we ate breakfast and eventually it mingled with some clouds from below to put us in the soup. By midday it was snowing and we had to write off our chances for going high on this day. On the bright side, our team members that were suffering from minor colds yesterday had kicked those ailments by today... Vitamin C and bedrest. The gang put on climbing gear and walked up the first hill over camp, despite the steadily falling snow, just to get some exercise and some time out of the tents. Our forecasts call for more snow, unfortunately, so we had to do a bit of contingency juggling of supplies today. As we mentioned a few days back, we can't afford to be separated from our cache at 16 by avalanche conditions as our food supply at 14 Camp dwindles. This afternoon three of the guides broke trail up to the fixed lines and then ascended to 16,200' to retrieve the cache. There was plenty of recent snow to plod through and there were scars and debris piles from a few avalanches, but today things were stable enough and the mission was a success. The entire team greeted the cache raiders enthusiastically upon their return at dinner-time. We'd certainly hoped to use the cached supplies for our summit bid... and we cling to that hope. But now we have that food and fuel safely within our grasp should we need to retreat instead. The team is upbeat and optimistic... and realistic. We know we need the weather to improve in the next few days, defying the forecasts.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
HEY SPENCER!! TONTO WEST AND I ARE DOING THE GOOD WEATHER DANCE, WE WANT TO SEE YOU GUYS GET TO THE SUMMIT! BUT BE SAFE.
Posted by: TOBY EMERSON on 7/16/2011 at 8:01 am
Safety and food, altitude wished for all in the waiting game. Happiness awaits. love dinah and sue
Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/15/2011 at 6:02 am
Oddly enough, we had great weather today, but we couldn't really put it to good use. We stayed in our 14,200' camp. Forecasts called for dire weather and a couple of our gang were under the weather, dealing with minor colds, so we decided to give everything and everyone a day in which to get better. In fact, none of the other teams on the mountain moved either. We know of four, one other guided group at 14 Camp and three teams up at 17,200'. The National Park Service team packed up their camp and flew out of 14 today by helicopter, their season finished. To take advantage of the fine sunshine and to stretch legs, most of our team roped up and took a short walk to the "edge of the world" on the rim of Genet Basin. It offers magnificent views nearly straight down to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and also a good look at the lower portions of the West Rib climbing route. Obviously, if we have the opportunity tomorrow, we want to get back to work on the West Buttress route.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
have been following your progress on the blog and praying for a summit and safe return for you and all the team members, can’t wait to hear all the stories when you return, take lots of pics and hope you will give presentation at the medical society mtg when you return
God Bless,
Kenny Tidwell
Posted by: Kenny Tidwell on 7/14/2011 at 8:11 pm
How’s the bacon supply holding out?
Posted by: Joe on 7/14/2011 at 4:18 pm
Just as the Mt. McKinley weather report predicted, we got six inches of snow last night at our 14,200' camp. There wasn't any wind to go with it though, so the night was an easy one. Most of today was spent "inside the ping pong ball" -in a white world of cloud and falling snow. So most of us passed the time in the tents, sleeping, reading, listening to music or talking about the weather. A high point to the cloudy part of the day was a reading of the comments posted to the RMI blog. We can't bring up a web page, but the comments were cut and pasted into an email for the team and were very well received. Thank You.
Finally, around dinner time, the clouds began to clear and we were treated to stunning views of Foraker, Hunter and Denali. Now, at 9:30 in the evening it is crystal clear above and cloudy down below. This clear and dry evening defies predictions but we'll gladly take it. The big hope now is that tomorrow will stay nice and we'll get to move up to high camp.
Spencer wishes his Mom a happy birthday from Denali... And his teammates second that.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Sending you good tidings for a safe summit Stewart!
Posted by: Gail on 7/13/2011 at 4:31 pm
Spencer, I read this blog every day and just can’t
imagine what you are doing! but then, I just can’t
imagine 99.9% of the things you do! I am just going to
have to live through you, that’s all there is to it.
Russ and I just can’t wait to hear all about it
love to you and best wishes to all on the mountain
Carol
Posted by: Carol Trett on 7/13/2011 at 1:10 pm
A restful rest day was had by all... Mostly. We slept late, until almost 9 in the morning, and then emerged to find the world a dozen shades of grey as multiple cloud layers shifted slowly about. Our chefs prepared a sumptuous breakfast of egg and bacon quesadillas and we sat about in down coats telling stories for a bit before returning to the comfort of the tents for the day, determined to catch up on sleep and hydration. Our weather forecast made it plain today that we could expect at least a couple days of snow and so it was decided to grab back two days of food from the cache we'd placed at 16,200' yesterday. Geoff and Zeb made the round trip in 2 hours and 15 minutes... just in time since shortly after their return it began to snow heavily. Continued snow will make the cache inaccessible for a time as we may need to let avalanche conditions settle. The team got out in the weather long enough to beef up the tent anchors and eat a hot dinner in the POSH dining tent. Despite the forecast and the snow, spirits remain high.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Do hope there is enough Kungfu chicken to go round…
Take good care all of you, stay happy and healthy and get there!!
Posted by: Claire Munting on 7/12/2011 at 6:39 pm
HEY SPENCER HOLD ON THERE TONTO WEST AND I ARE ON THE WAY WITH FRESH LINENS AND MORE COFFEE AND A LATTE. HEY AND WOULD YOU LEAVE YOUR LEFT OVER STUFF WHERE WE CAN FIND IT. YOU KNOW US JUST KIDDING!!!!PRAY FOR THE BEST WEATHER FOR YOU AND YOUR TEAM. GET TO THE SUMMIT!!!!
Posted by: TOBY EMERSON on 7/12/2011 at 1:58 pm
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Brandi and Gilbert!! I can’t wait to get up there with you! Ill bring some CA sunshine and see you in just a few days!! I got all of us girls coordinated pee bottles! Cheers! Xoxo
Posted by: elizabeth on 5/6/2012 at 10:43 am
Hi Daddy (Brady) just read Rosie’s visitors (book) now. Making a habitat out of a tree branch I will show u my habitat. Hope u r having a good time miss u love u bye COME HOME SOON
Mom & Dylan want PREZZIES mine is optional.
Posted by: Ellie O'Mara on 5/6/2012 at 9:05 am
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