Entries from Mt. McKinley

Thursday June 20th (day 10 on the mountain)

We woke up to a chilly morning in camp 3 at 14,200 feet elevation. My tent mate Dave and I were lingering in our warm sleeping bags, listening to the crunchy steps of our teammates who had gathered enough courage to step outside.  Everything in the tent that could freeze had done so unless it was tucked inside our sleeping bags, including water bottles, sunscreen and even pee bottles…. The inside of the tent was crusted with a thin layer of frost that would rub off or drop down on us whenever we touched it.

I have to admit that the early mornings in the tent are my least favorite part of mountaineering. Just the thought of unzipping the comfortable sleeping bag and pulling on stiff, frozen pants, forcing my feet into rock hard, ice-cold mountaineering boots and crawling out of the tent into the outside winter land makes me shiver. Still, I know that only a few minutes later life is much better after taking care of the morning routine and sitting in the kitchen tent with a hot cup of coffee, courtesy of our guides. Today was an “active rest day” which mostly meant hanging around camp and doing some ascender training, but also entailed a back carry trip down the slope from our camp to retrieve the cache we left a few days ago at 13,500 feet elevation. By the time we left camp just before 10am the below zero morning had turned into a blisteringly sunny day, and coming up the hill back to camp with heavy backpacks we were sweating through our single base-layers. Otherwise, it was a pretty uneventful round trip if it wasn’t for the fact that I did a complete face plant going down the hill while fiddling with my phone and tripping over my crampons. What a rookie mistake…

Coming back to camp we were treated to an amazing brunch consisting of burritos hot from the camp stove served by our bad ass guides Seth and Nicole. They had been granted a day off from carrying loads thanks to their super human efforts the last couple of days, accompanying our team mates Tait and Sophia who decided to abort this climb, all the way from camp 2 to base camp and then back again (a 20 miles round trip with 5,000 feet elevation gain!), only to rejoin the rest of our team on the 3,000+ feet ascent with heavy packs & sleds to camp 3 the next day. Truly impressive!

Given that today was mostly a rest day I had an opportunity to reflect on the experience thus far. I’ve been on a number of guided climbs in different corners of the world over the years, including some that have been expedition style like this one. They’ve all been great experiences and my guides have generally been top notch. However, I do think there is an RMI Difference based on what I’ve seen so far.  Not only has the guiding been outstanding thanks to our world class guides Dom, Seth and Nicole, but the overall logistics, route planning and camp facilities have been flawless. Climbing mountains is hard as it is, so having delicious cooked meals (not freeze dried), 3-person tents between 2 of us, and a few extra rest days in the itinerary has made this experience as enjoyable as possible and will hopefully allow us all the best odds possible to summit the mountain. A special shoutout to our lead guide Dom who is expertly masterminding the giant chess game that it is to climb Denali while at the same time fostering a genuinely positive and supportive team environment.

Just a quick note on the team before I wrap. We’re all from very different backgrounds as highlighted in Rossi’s blog a couple of days ago, and with a variety of mountaineering experience. However, 10 days into the trip I’m really impressed by how we have bonded into a cohesive team that helps and supports each other. We’re now all seasoned Denali mess tent small talk, being an introverted Swede, I do enjoy listening to it! �� fantastic experience so far! And a gentle request to the Gunnarsson family to leave some comments - we can’t have Dave get all the attention!

RMI Climber Mattias Gunnarsson

An easy-ish day at 14K. The weather stayed decent, a little cloudier, some snowflakes, but not really a concern. We ate a slow breakfast and then geared up. As expected, it was just 20 minutes descent to reach our cache and then an hour long slog to get it back up to camp. We napped through the afternoon and tried to catch up on hydration. Before dinner we did a short review of the techniques we'll use on the "fixed rope" section that gets us onto the West Buttress. If all goes well, we will carry up to about 16,200 ft tomorrow.

It was good to see Hanna Smith's RMI team come into camp this afternoon. They hit the top yesterday evening. We patted them on their backs and pumped them for info and tips on the route.  

Best Regards,

RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius & Team

Hello Reader,

We are writing you from lower elevation. Today we packed up our camp at 17k and made the walk down to 14k camp. Packs were feeling heavy, Legs were feeling heavy, bodies were feeling heavy. It's been a big 36hrs for the team and we are all feeling it. But with each step down we feel that much better. We are already thinking of showers and food and all the comforts we gave up to come out here. It's been a crazy ride, but we still have 2 more days Of walking strong and smart to get out safely. Fingers crossed, the weather is good enough to walk in and good enough to fly in on Saturday morning.

For now We are all looking forward to a good night’s sleep not at 17k camp.

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

Wednesday, June 19, 2024

Good evening readers,

The team did it! At 620pm on Wednesday we stood on top of Deanli! The weather held with mostly clear skies and winds no greater than 20mph. It was a cold cold day. We wore most of our jackets and multiple layers on out legs. It was a long, hard day. We had the summit to ourselves. Tomorrow we head downhill to lower elevations where everyone will feel much better. We still have some big days ahead of us but the end is near. We would like to thank everyone for the good weather vibes and positive vibes! And for all the support from back home. Y'all are amazing!!

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

Wednesday, June 19, 2024 - 10:19 pm PT

Such a difference to be camped at 14,000' on Denali.  Radically different views, of course, but it is also the feeling of finally being on the mountain rather than on the approach. Being above Windy Corner rather than below it. Being higher and colder. It wasn't easy, but we got here in good time today - 5.5 hours. We left 11,000' Camp at 9 AM and pulled up the now familiar hills. It was another good weather day, thankfully, and we could see way down the Alaska Range to Mt Spurr, the active volcano in the Tordrillo mts. We worked for hours to build our new home at 14,000' but finally got to relax in a new dining complex. Tomorrow we'll go back to our cache at 13,600' to bring in the food and fuel and the approach will be finished! 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Wednesday, June 19, 2024 - 1-:20 pm PT

Beat Generation writer Jack Kerouac insisted: “Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent in the office or mowing your lawn. CLIMB THAT GODDAMN MOUNTAIN.”

Today was a big day for the team - 3200’ vertical over 3 miles. We moved from 11,000' Camp to 14,000' Camp and set up what will be our home for the next 4-5 days. Retracing our steps from 11,000' up the relentlessly steep Motorcycle Hill, up Squirrel Hill, onto Polo Field, up to Windy Corner, across crevasses and past the cache we left a few days ago, we finally crested the last slope and 14K camp came into view. Hiking through these massive cathedrals of rock and snow inspires awe. Traversing through these quixotically named places that mountaineering legends have written about enhances that awe so that it almost seems unreal.

Upon reaching camp, the task of sculpting our home out of snow was upon us. After a couple of hours, our tents were secure on the snow platforms we had built, while our tireless guides (and a couple of our tireless team members) crafted the kitchen and bathroom out of the bottomless glacier.

Most of us have been feeling the physical effects of altitude at 14,000' Camp, some more than others. Today, as in all other days, we rallied remarkably well as a team, pitching in and assisting to the best of our abilities to help one another and do what is needed for the team to succeed. It is a beautiful reflection of what humanity can be when a group of strangers with different backgrounds and in different stages of their lives can come together for a common cause and help one another to achieve a singular goal. While each of us has our own personal motivations for embarking on this great adventure, no doubt Jack Kerouac’s entreaty has something to do with why we are all here.

So let’s go team: let’s climb that goddamn mountain.

RMI climber Chris Brockmeyer

Wednesday, June 19, 2024 - 12:20 AM PT

Привет от 11ти лагер. Нашия екип се наслаждава на почивния ден с кравай с крема сирене исьомга за закуска. След това Доминик, нашия лидер на експедиция, поднесе информационен урок на системи за евакуиране от ледникови пропасти. До момента нашите дневници са главно фокусирани на движението ни из планината през деня, затова ще направим нещо различно, ще ви запозная с нашия екип, за да се принесете внашето ежедневие.

На моето въже екипа се състой от Доминик- лидер, Крис Брокмауер или на кратко Брок, Аз - Роси, и Крис Раитс или Скитълс. Доминик е от Ню Джързи, и живее във Вашингтон с жена си Емили, и двата им лабрадора. Дом и Емили, обичат да прекарват свободното си време в природата и тичат по пътеки. Брок е от Калифорния, но живее в Ню Йорк със семейството си. Той е присъствал на десетки Тони награди и гали по работа, но предпочита да катери и ходи на походи в Адерондекските планини. Крис Райтс  е от Саинт Луис, където е бил главен прокурор за над 20 години. Тези дни се наслаждава на живота в Брекенридж, където е ски учител и притежава  билярдна маса  на най- високото място в Колорадо. Той е проверил с неговите съседи за това твърдение.

 На другата въжена линия поведени от планинския лидер Никол, са Кери, Матиас, и Давид. Никол е от Сан Франциско, и прекарва повечето лета като гид за РМИ, през останалото време обича да катери и съчетава нейната бакалаварска степен  по архитектурно инженерство.  Кери е гръбначен хирург от Нова Каролина, който се натъква на  неговата професия след кратък период в строителството. След като се усетил, че  “има мозък” (по негови думи), той се насочва към философия и после хирургия, защото се използват отверки и пирони като встроителството. Матиас е мой съимигрант от Швеция. Той  живее в Бостън със семейството си, но неговата страст е в катеренето на високите точки на Европа и Азия. Давид, съснай- големия фен клуб от нашия екип, е от Кентъки, но в момента е директор на ски училище в Охайо. Където имат нужда от само три дни и температури под нулата натрупат машинен сняг на 100 акра терен, за да отворят ски пистите за клиенти. Много е горд от новите системни продобивки като РФИД, нон стоп воден източник  и т.н. Не на последно място е въжения екип воден от Сет. Катерачите са София, Нате и Томас. Сет е от Тенеси, но живее във Вашингтон с жена си. Най- интересния факт за него според мен е, който научих за него до момента е, че Сет е прекарал неговия меден живеят в Ню Уорк, тяхната страст е многодневни походи, и достигането на най високите точки на всеки щат. София като докторант на Философия ни обясни възможно ли е да пътуваме през времето, и различните версии на Аз, през междузвездните системи. Нещото което е очевидно от пръв поглед за Тате е абсолютната обич към София. Те ни подсигуриха със нови сладки и солени храни за останалите дни на експедицията. Благодарим ви за Вашата щедрост. Оставих един от най- оживените характери на екипа за последно. Томас, който е от Ванкувър, Канада, и е фокусиран на по техничен терен в неговата страст към планински терени, именно ледниково катерене, много стръмен терен из Аляска за сега. Денали е просто тест за сега. Той учи да бъде кинезеотерапевт и е инструментален в тези почивни дни като ни показва упражнения за специфични мускули, който ни помагат да сме във форма. Отделно той е главния ресурс на шеги и забавни истории.  Това е нашия шарен лагер обединен от една обща цел - върха на Денали! ефърт  20 мили и 5000 фута височина до базови лагер и обратно,  да се върнат при нас и да продължим да катерим към 14ти лагер.

RMI Climber Rossi Simeonova

The cold shadows were still on us when we pulled out of camp at 8:30 this morning. But we were carrying loads up the steep "motorcycle hill" which warmed us. It was a thrill to top motorcycle and get onto "squirrel hill" and to be able to look out at the tundra to the NW. We were excited to get views of the Peters Glacier and up close views of the West Buttress of Denali. There was a cool breeze as we reached the "Polo Field" and so we briefly wondered whether we'd reach our goal. But the temps warmed and the wind dropped and we got around Windy Corner as hoped. It was stunning to come face to face with the South Peak of Denali. We dug a deep cache and buried the supplies and finally just sat enjoying the views for a few minutes. It was a pleasant and "easy" climb back down to camp. We'd managed the round trip in a respectable 6.5 hrs. That left enough of the afternoon for resting in warm tents. We'll hope to move up tomorrow.

Best Regards, 

RMI Guides Dave, Sam, Sam & Nick

Tuesday, June 18, 2024 - 8:47 pm PT

Hello readers!

Today we waited for our two guides to rejoin the team. A light wind kept the air chilly even with the intensity of the sun. Although the air temperature may read negative five, with the sun it feels a lot more comfortable and the tents can get well into the 70s. Freeze or fry they say on the mountain. We are well rested and our bodies adjusting to the altitude. We are ready for tomorrow. Tomorrow is the big day that we have all been waiting and training for. Tomorrow we try to summit Denali. The weather forecast looks promising. Maybe a bit windy at times but we are hoping it holds fair and allows Us to stand on top. Everyone is excited and anxious for the day to be here. Please send all the best of vibes our way. We will take them all! Hopefully the next dispatch is us saying we stood tall on the tallest peak in North America.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

Tuesday, June 18, 2024 - 9:20 am PT

Good evening readers,

Today was a beautiful day for a summit bid, but sometimes beautiful weather isn't enough. Due to some logistics of one climber needing to descend to lower elevation, the team took a rest day at 17,000' Camp. All climbers are doing well and their bodies are adjusting to the altitude. Tomorrow, the two guides who went down with the climber will rejoin the team to try for the summit on Wednesday. The weather seems to be holding. Fingers crossed the winds stay at bay and we can pull this off. Keep sending all the calm winds, good weather, healthy bodies vibes our way!

Goodnight all,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team