Entries from Mt. McKinley
Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 6:29 PM PT
We took advantage of calmer weather to carry a load up to 13,600 today. We got to the top of
Squirrel Hill, and the clouds looked like they might spoil our day. As we approached Windy Corner the weather completely cleared up and left us with light winds and sunny skies. So that was nice. Everyone did really well today, and we’re hoping to move up to 14K tomorrow, weather permitting. We’re currently hanging out in our sun-warmed tents drying out our gear. We’ll do an early dinner, and head to bed soon. Gotta get that beauty rest.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 6:12 PM PT
Today dawned clear and calm and cold. I got out of the tent at the frigid hour of 4:30 am to start the stoves. I woke everyone else shortly thereafter to start packing up their sleeping bags and gearing up for our move to
High Camp, we were rolling by 7:10. Clouds had moved in and by the time we topped out on the fixed lines a light breeze kept the temps cold. We made good time navigating the fixed ropes and the West Buttress Ridge all the way to 17,200'. Five hours and ten minutes after leaving 14 Camp we were in 17 Camp. But we had hours of work to do, digging and chipping flat tent platforms out of rock hard ice and wind eroded snow.
Now we're all moved in to our tents, we've filled water bottles, and we're making more water for dinner. We're hoping the weather forecast validates and tomorrow will let us have a stab at the summit. If not, we're set up with food and fuel to wait a handful of days until we get our chance. We'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 6:09 PM PT
We woke up early this morning. 5am to be exact.
14K Camp is full of eager climbers waiting, likely everybody else, for their shot at the summit. The problem with extended bad weather is that climbers stack up in the queue. Like a dam during spring runoff, eventually you have to open the flood gates to release the back up to prevent the dam from over flowing. Well, our theoretical opening of the flood gates manifests as a decent weather window for climbing. We braved the cold, got packed up, ate a quick breakfast and were on the move by 7:15am. Over two hours before the sun normally hits camp. About halfway up the fixed lines we started to receive a little filtered sun and fingers and toes began to finally thaw out. A quick glance back down the terrain we had just climbed confirmed our need for an early departure. The flood gates had opened. 50-75 people streamed out of camp in a solid single-file line. We felt pretty good about being so far ahead of the human onslaught. The West Buttress itself is easily the most aesthetic portion of the entire ascent. The buttress offers steep climbing, wild exposure and views of the Alaska Range and it's expansive blanket of tundra that unfolds to the East. The weather stayed quite pleasant for us as we ascended the ridge that would eventually lead us to our high camp at 17,000ft. Soon enough steep terrain and exposure led to the gentle slopes of the Upper Peters Glacier. We sauntered our way into camp. There is already a small village of erected tents hunkered down in a scoop of snow sculpted by the wind. We opted to travel a bit further and build camp where no one has yet. We've gotten quite efficient at the process and within a short time were all hunkered in warm sleeping bags as out of the elements. The weather at the moment is a bit cloudy with light snow showers and light winds. Not completely unpleasant but not perfect either. Tomorrow we will try and climb to the summit of
Denali assuming that weather and conditions allow. The team is poised and ready, all we need now is to be allowed safe passage. We will wake up early again tomorrow morning, stick our heads out of the tent and hope we like what we see! Thanks for following along!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
Monday, May 27, 2019 - 6:08 PM PT
As expected, the weather did not cooperate for a carry today. So instead of moving uphill we spent the morning making and eating pancakes. We ate breakfast until it was lunch time, ate lunch, and then enjoyed a few hours of sun and clear skies. We shoveled some snow of course, got a little training in, discussed the state of the universe, and I believe that Kirk has been meditating on the meaning of life for much of the day. He is scheduled to give a lecture detailing his enlightenment at dinner. David ate bacon today for the first time in 10 years. He seemed to enjoy it. There is talk of a pull-up contest if the weather doesn’t improve tomorrow, we will see. Dustin is the top seeded contender, but I have no doubt there are some dark horses in our ranks. As we move towards dinner, the snow has returned. Our plan is to get an early-ish start tomorrow and carry to 13,500, but we will see what the weather gives us. Hopefully we wake to clear skies and calm winds tomorrow.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
Monday, May 27, 2019 - 6:30 PM PT
Today the team awoke to slightly calmer weather, finally allowing everyone to venture out of their tents. Camp received a good bit of new snow, and the wind organized the snow into orderly piles, just not necessarily in the most convenient locations. After everyone soaked up some morning sun, the team returned to their tents to rest for our upcoming move. If the weather cooperates, we will be pushing to
17,000' Camp tomorrow hoping for good summit conditions the following day.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
On The Map
Monday, May 27, 2019 - 5:41 PM PT
Winds remained strong overnight and our camp weathered the storm admirably. The combo of strong mountaineering tents, solid anchors, and stout snow walls creates a pretty burly fortress against the elements.
This morning we had some blue sky above us for a couple hours before the clouds eased back in. Winds up high on the
West Buttress continue to be strong. We're hopeful that the weather forecast validates and winds will diminish by tomorrow. We might have a short window to summit in the next few days. We'll see what plays out, but we'd like to climb to High Camp tomorrow and hopefully have a chance to summit on Wednesday. We're at the mercy of the weather though, so our schedule remains flexible to her whim.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Sunday, May 26, 2019 - 11:41 PM PT
Well, the storm is here. It snowed all day today. Hard to say exactly how much. It’s ankle deep in some spots, and waist deep in others. We’ve been moving consistently and working hard every day up until now, so this forced rest day wasn’t the worst thing in the world. We spent our time shoveling snow, eating bacon, shoveling snow, reading, shoveling snow, and napping. We will probably wake up in the middle of the night to shovel some more snow. That’s
Alaska for ya. It looks like we probably won’t be going anywhere for a few days, but that’s no problem for us. When we finally do get to move we’ll be well rested, and well versed in the art of maintaining camp in a storm. Until tomorrow, the team sends their best.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
We're at
14 Camp weathering out a storm that is producing snow and wind. We established robust snow walls around our camp so we're doing just fine. We enjoyed a multi-hour brunch and coffee session this morning in the comfort of our cook tent, protected from the elements.
Now, everyone is nestled in their tents relaxing, reading, snacking or snoozing to pass the time. The sound of snow hitting the tent and the flapping of nylon tent flies in the wind are reminders of harsh conditions outside while we rest comfortably in our sleeping bags.
The storm is forecast to continue through tomorrow, easing on Tuesday.
Until tomorrow...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
The team woke up to another expected stormy morning. We decided to make pancakes for breakfast, a lengthy process at
14,000' when you're serving for 12. We manage to take until almost midday to scarf down the feast. The weather however isn't as severe as the forecast was calling for but still not nearly suitable enough for travel higher. So we'll spend another afternoon hunkered down in the tents. The forecast is calling for another day of stormy weather before improvement is expected into Tuesday. Waiting out bad weather such as this is a common occurrence on this mountain and I may argue that it's simply an "entry fee" for safe passage to the summit. The team is doing great however with all the down time and all are well equipped with various forms of entertainment to pass the hours. My favorite being snacking. I mean, the more I eat the less my pack weighs, right? If only such simple logic actually translated to reality as efficiently as it does in my head! As I finish ty
ping this I can hear the wind fiercely barreling over the exposed granite of the upper mountain like a freight train rumbles the earth as is passes through a small western town where the residents are so use to the thunderous event that it seemingly goes unnoticed. Such is life at our little village here perched at 14,000ft. Just a quaint little town with a train problem.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
On The Map
Today we woke to more clear skies, but with a hint of wind. We had a quick breakfast and then headed downhill to grab our cache. About twenty minutes of downhill walking got us to all of our gear, and then about an hour and a half of walking uphill got us back to camp. Throughout the day winds increased and snow started to fall, so we didn’t get to relax the afternoon away like we wanted. Instead we spent the second half of our day building snow walls and fortifying our camp. It seems like the weather system that forecasters have been calling for might actually be materializing. That’s no problem for us, as we’ve got a strong camp with all of our gear, so we are prepared to wait for as long as we may need to. We are planning on carrying some gear up to 14,000' Camp tomorrow, but unless the weather improves we will just be resting here at 11,200'. The team sends their best to everyone back home!
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
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Congratulations to everyone! Prayers to all for a safe descent.
Your followers in Columbus, Georgia :)
Posted by: Janette on 5/30/2019 at 5:48 am
It looks like you reached the summit yesterday at around 5:30pm? We have been closely following your progress through the Garmin updates from one of your team members. Can’t wait to read the update. Hope you are all doing well and enjoying the amazing achievement.
Suretha Swart
Posted by: Suretha on 5/30/2019 at 5:45 am
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