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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Weather Day at 11K Camp

May 14, 2015, 6:20 pm PT Checking in here from 11,200 ft: Today we awoke to less than desirable weather for a potential carry. Gusty winds and snow prompted a welcomed rest day. The team slept in and once awake began the process of fixing up camp and repairing the cook tent. A multiple hour breakfast of eggs, meats, and hashbrowns gave way to some socializing around camp, and on and off napping. The team is in good spirits and hoping to begin the eventual process of moving to 14,000 camp as soon as the weather improves. RMI Guide Billy Haas and the team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I hope the weather improves soon so you can continue your adventure!  Chris, had a healthy baby Savannah appointment this week! The boys are doing awesome and enjoy moving you up the mountain poster we made! I’m glad you’re eating well! We love you and are missing you! Good luck to the team and stay safe! Praying for y’all

Posted by: Brooke Q on 5/15/2015 at 10:10 am

Thinking clear blue skies for you all….Chris..Dad and I love seeing the updates.  Your breakfast sounded wonderful to have on the mountain…dare I let the cat out of the bag that you are Great at cooking breakfast!  Oh and Landon won’t share his Elmo with Cohen…and there isn’t an Elmo for sale in Fairbanks..so Cohen has a Blue Elmo which is really Cookie Monster that Brooke found and he is happy and just thinks Elmo has a blue suit on! :c)
Take care all…Be Safe…every step upward will be amazing!

Posted by: Melissa & Dave on 5/15/2015 at 9:33 am


Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team are Rigged & Ready to Roll

Our team is assembled, or bags are packed, and we are ready to climb onboard the airplanes and take off! We spent today going through all of our gear, packing and repacking our bags, and sorting lunch food. With all of the details dialed in, we're going to eat what is hopefully our last dinner in town for a few weeks, and catch some zzz's. Tomorrow with any luck, we'll board the planes first thing for one of the highlights of the trip: the stunning flight into Kahiltna Base Camp. We'll be in touch! RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team
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Ed and the team, Have a wonderful trip and wishing you great weather. So proud of you!

Posted by: Gayle Hutton on 5/16/2015 at 6:28 pm

Following your adventure Brian P. Best of Luck and keep the updates and photos rolling.

Posted by: Faisal M on 5/16/2015 at 5:25 pm


Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb Lost Marsupial

May 14, 2015, 1:45 am PT Greetings from Little Swiss camp! We're "off rappel" for the day... and what a day! Full alpine experience. We climbed the route "Lost Marsupial" on The Throne, one of the MEGA CLASSICS in the area. We had A BLAST and everybody did a great job, but also had the opportunity to experience what alpine climbing is all about. Splitter granite on the crux pitches, snow over the upward traverses in between, and getting out of our comfort zones by climbing with a pack and mountaineering boots. Big dinner followed upon arrival to camp, following the eight full length rappels that took us off the wall, and allowed us to beat the storm that now we are under. We will keep you posted on our upcoming objectives. Best that's from the promised land of climbing that is Alaska. RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Naie & Team,
I bet the night sky up there is pretty incredible huh?
The Kurdish people have a saying, “No friends but the mountains”.
The mountain is your friend too, she will protect you.
Best wishes for a successful climb.
From Jeannie,
currently West Coast of the Southrrn Alps, NZ.

Posted by: Jean on 5/15/2015 at 5:32 am

It sounds like a great adventure! Congrats to Kyle, Paul, and the whole team!

Posted by: Christie on 5/14/2015 at 6:24 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter and Team Settle in at 11,200’ Camp

May 13, 2015, 10:49 pm The weather today was a bit squirrelly, but we were able to make it back down to our cached gear at 9,600' and haul it back up to our camp at 11,200'. We're all doing well out here and sitting pretty on the mountain. Our next mission will be to take a cache of food and fuel up around Windy Corner at around 13,600'. We plan on tackling that tomorrow if the weather allows us. Today would have been too windy for a foray to higher altitudes. We're all excited for the next stages of the climb, where we exchange snowshoes for crampons, and trekking poles for ice axes. We're also psyched at climbing steeper terrain and enjoying the ever ever impressive views. That's the news from this end. We'll keep you up to date with our progress. RMI Guide Mike Walter and team.

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Settling in at 11,200’ Camp

May 12, 2015 11:00 pm PT Hello everyone! We tackled our third day of Mt. McKinley climbing today, which brought us to camp at 11,200'. The team did exceptionally well and we made great time, rolling into camp before it became uncomfortably hot on the glacier. Once here we had a big task ahead of us, constructing tent platforms and a kitchen and bathroom. Thankfully we were able to make use of some old walls and platforms that only required minor adjustment to make them workable for our tents, saving us at least an hour of hard labor. The bathroom and kitchen required the most effort, but the team rotated through the shoveling and we now have a luxurious Posh House dining area which we enjoyed over a filling dinner of mac and cheese with bacon and broccoli. We are all tucked in now, enjoying the last few minutes of sunlight in camp in the comfort of our sleeping bags, looking forward to a nice rest and short day tomorrow. Our plan is to sleep in a bit later than the last few mornings, and then return to our last camp to retrieve our remaining food. We'll check in again tomorrow! RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall and the team!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

For Daddy to Be of a Princess…doctors appointment went well and she is growing and perfect!  The boys are taking care of Mom. 
Thinking of all of you at Camp 11,200 this 48 degree morning from Washington DC…I’m so happy for your progress up the mountain~ 
Thank you for all the updates…and allowing us to be a small part of this adventure your on.  Proud of you and wishing you good weather…Keep moving on up!

Posted by: Dave and Melissa Quantock on 5/14/2015 at 2:28 am

For Eric and all you hockey fans at Camp 11,200’:  Rangers just won 2-1 in OT!  Stepan nets winner.  Tampa Bay series starts on Sat.  Keep that Stanley Cup “beard” growing, and keep on chugging Ricky et al!  Dad/Alex

Posted by: Alex Alimanestianu on 5/13/2015 at 8:10 pm


Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team on Belay!

May 12, 2015 10:15 pm PT Team is ready for our first objective: tomorrow morning we will be switching to multi-pitch mode and conquer our first big route. We had a great day training on (and summiting) "the Munchkin." We spent the day on its south ridge and east face rehearsing for steep snow and technical rock. Everyone is doing great and we all look forward to checking in with more accounts from the outstanding routes we are about to tackle. Good evening! RMI Guides Elías, Sean, Andy and the team.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome job you guys! Paul you are amazing!!!

Posted by: Merilee Jopson on 5/14/2015 at 9:58 am

Congratulations to everyone! Very exciting to get the updates. Wish I was there!!! Good luck!

Posted by: Leo Wright on 5/13/2015 at 12:17 pm


Mt. Rainier: May 13th Update

The Five-Day Muir Summit Climbs, led by Brent Okita and Zeb Blais, turned at the top of Disappointment Cleaver this morning due to weather. Cloud deck is currently at 8,700'. Both teams left Camp Muir just after 9:00 a.m. PT. Brent sent some photos as they descended this morning (shown below).
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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team First Full Day on the Pika Glacier

May 11, 2015 11:00 pm PT Greetings! Warm temperatures, clear skies and pristine snow is what we enjoyed today. Our first full day in the Pika entailed a thorough review of our different anchors, crevasse rescue systems and scenarios, and a tour of the glacier to check the approach to our upcoming routes. Keeping a close eye on the ravens, whom are after our kitchen and tents, we enjoyed a massive production of tortellini at dinner. This will fuel us for our first objective tomorrow, when we'll try our first summit while mastering transitions, protection and descents on rock and snow. Best regards, RMI Guides Elias, Andy, and Sean
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

V,

I’m so proud of your adventurous spirit.  Your trip looks amazing! I can’t wait to hear all about it when you get home.

Love you so much,
B

Posted by: BC on 5/13/2015 at 8:44 am

Hope the good weather continues..enjoying your Blogs.

Posted by: JH on 5/12/2015 at 7:52 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Tackle Ski Hill

May 11, 2015 9:10 pm PT Greetings from the Kahiltna Glacier! Our team is making steady progress, and we're currently at our camp at 9,600'. The weather has been beautiful since we were able to land on the glacier on Sunday. The climbing is strenuous, as always, as we carry heavy backpacks and pull full sleds. This morning we tackled "Ski Hill", our first real significant incline, followed by rolling glacial terrain until we reached camp. Camp is all set up and we are busy cooking dinner. We'll try to rack out early tonight for some well-earned rest. Tomorrow we plan to make a cache of equipment here, at our current camp, in order to lighten our expedition loads. Then the plan is to then move up to the 11,200' camp; we'll come back for the cached gear the following day. That's the plan at least. Our plans are always at the mercy of the weather in the mountains. That's it for now. Everyone is healthy and in good spirits. We'll touch base again tomorrow, hopefully from 11k camp. RMI Guide Mike Walter and the team

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Fly on the Glacier

May 11, 2015 12:51 am PT Hi everyone! We finally had a break in the weather and were able to fly on to the glacier this morning. After days of waiting in Talkeetna, we were all eagerly anticipating our flight this morning. We took off just after 9 am, and once on the glacier we packed and organized our gear quickly in order to make the most of the day. We are now snug in our tents at the base of Ski Hill (7800') after a long but satisfying day covering the relatively flat lower glacier. Our group climbed strong, and tomorrow we're looking forward to moving camp farther uphill. It's nearly midnight and we've all had a big day, so we're going to get some rest and we'll check in again tomorrow! RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall and the team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Eric - So exciting to follow your adventure.  We are looking forward to hearing about it from you in person.  Good luck! XOXO Kathy & Casey

Posted by: Kathy Mangan on 5/28/2015 at 9:52 am

Received a surprise cell call from son Eric last night at 10:15pm EST from Camp 2 (9600’) and he sounded pumped.  Great to hear your voice my boy!!  (No details as call dropped after 10 seconds.)  They’re on the move!

Posted by: Alex Alimanestianu on 5/12/2015 at 6:40 am

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