Entries from Expedition Dispatches
This morning we woke to clear skies and chilly temperatures. After warming our hands with breakfast and hot tea or coffee, we packed up camp and tied into our ropes to leave the basecamp area. The goal for the day was moving to 7,800' camp on the main flow of the Kahiltna Glacier. We enjoyed pleasant temperatures and excellent conditions on the glacier, enabling us to make the trip in just under five hours. As one of the first teams to arrive for the day we were able to move into some pre-dug tent platforms. The peaks surrounding us are shining in the sun and shimmering blue ice is all around. Quite the view from our new home.
The weather forecast is great and we are looking forward to our next few days.
RMI Guides Eric Frank, Jason Thompson and the AK Seminar team
Another day of waiting and hiking for those of us at Mt. Everest Base Camp, but an important day none-the-less. The "fixing team" made it to the summit today, taking advantage of stable weather in the morning. We heard that things weren't quite so stable in the afternoon, with wind and snow working over the upper mountain, but climbers pushed on to the mountaintop anyway and then descended safely. The word was that several hundred climbers moved up the Lhotse Face today to be in position for summit bids tomorrow. We wish them all fine conditions for those bids, but we are keeping focused on our own window, which the forecasts still predict to be a good one, several days out.
Best regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Five Day Summit Climb May 14 - 18 led by RMI Guide Tyler Reid reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team reported moderate winds with clear skies above and a cloud deck below at around 7,000'. The team will return to Camp Muir and continue their descent this afternoon. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's team!
Congratulations to All! Job well done!
Anne and Jeff - we are SO Proud of you and your climbing team!
Our Love and Respect to all!
Don and Liz Bistline
Posted by: Donald Bistline on 5/18/2012 at 8:13 pm
Wow, after a couple hectic days in Talkeetna our crew finally completed packing all of the food, fuel, and assorted junk (but still expensive junk) that we'd need for our Denali expedition. We were greeted with fair skies and calm winds for our flight out to basecamp where after a hot meal we've settled in for the night. The crew is certainly eager and excited for the challenge and the hard work that lies ahead but is undoubtedly feeling slightly apprehensive. It's hard to imagine that one wouldn't be surrounded by such massive mountains on all sides. The weather tomorrow is calling for another sunny day and we plan to take full advantage by pushing a single carry out to the base of Ski Hill.
More news to come as the situation develops...
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Gilbert Chase, Geoff Schellens, and the rest of the gang.
On The Map
Hi Brandi and Elizabeth its time to put all that prep to work. I’m sure that there is a lot of hard work ahead but remember to take some time to enjoy it all along the way.
Miss you Poo. -Chris
Posted by: Chris on 5/19/2012 at 10:32 am
Hi Gilbert-
Plow that road for me! We’ll cross paths in a couple of weeks. Looking forward to seeing you again (do you still have that boyfriend?)
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/18/2012 at 9:29 pm
After much discussion and hearing a favorable weather forecast for the next few days, we decided that an extra day at 11,000' was the best way for the group to rest and acclimate so we are strong for our move to 14,000'. We are looking to move tomorrow and are expecting good weather for pulling into camp.
As for today, we lazed around all morning in the posh, but had to move outside as the day progressed. It was way too hot to hang out in tents or the posh, a rare treat for a May Denali trip. I think today was just what the doctor ordered for us to move up in style tomorrow. Everyone is feeling strong, well-rested, and ready to camp in beautiful Genet Basin tomorrow night. We'll hopefully be checking in from 14,000' tomorrow.
Hope all is well at home,
RMI Guide Maile Wade and crew
On The Map
I forgot the birthday wish was for Maile
Posted by: Ginny on 5/18/2012 at 4:44 pm
Wow! sounds like all is going well. What a great please to have your birthday on the 19th! so HAPPY BIRTHDAY my girl I love you tons be safe
xoxoxoxoxo Mom
Posted by: Ginny on 5/18/2012 at 4:42 pm
Well today we began our day a little earlier than usual. We elected to go for a little glacier tour this morning and with how hot its been during the day the cool temps felt nice. We went to the base of Annie's Ridge and had a little glaciology talk from a rad location. On the walk back we saw a big ice fall release on Mt. Foraker which was lovely, they are always impressive no matter how many times you see them.
We chilled out this afternoon hiding from the afternoon sun. We regrouped for a crevasse rescue station. Everyone is sending and building mechanical advantage systems to haul climbers skyward. We are also organizing our gear for a move tomorrow up towards Kahiltna Dome which sits at 12,525'. If the weather plays nice, hopefully we will be back in 4 days.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
On The Map
Hi, This is Dave Hahn calling from Mt. Everest Base Camp, Nepal.
We are still in our waiting game. Conditions appear to have calmed down as predicted today and we hope tomorrow. There are teams posed at the South Col tonight, including a team of Sherpa looking to fix the route to the summit tomorrow. That would be pretty significant, obviously. We are rooting for those guys and hoping they get good weather. But still, this particular weather window is a little too short and a little too busy with people for us. So we are biding our time here and looking very carefully at the forecast for better weather in a few more days. That requires us to be down here at the base of the mountain a few days longer. So, we are just biding our time. We are exercising and going hiking each day, playing games and trying to keep from going crazy. We are looking forward better conditions in a few days and a summit bid.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp, May 17th.
On The Map
All the Best to all the Teams.
Posted by: Ajay Godbole on 5/18/2012 at 3:12 am
Wishing you all benevolence from the weather gods.
Thanks for the dispatches.
Stay safe, stay strong.
Posted by: Bill Horn on 5/17/2012 at 7:42 pm
Hi all!
We are back at 11,000' camp after a successful and gorgeous carry to cache gear at 13,500 ft, just past Windy Corner. When we woke this morning it looked like Windy Corner might live up to it's name; banners of snow were flying high off the nearby peaks from a strong north wind. We had a great smoked salmon breakfast and dragged our feet in camp for a bit to see if the wind would die, and it played ball! The carry was warm and calm, and the group moved great, happy to be free of our sleds, and to have lighter loads.
The weather forecast is sounding stellar for the next handful of days. We're going to make a game time decision tomorrow morning whether to move to the 14,000' camp or stay one more day at 11,000'. We'll let you know!
That's all for now; we're going to crawl into our warm down bags and get some shut eye.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the crew
On The Map
Sounds like a great time! Please give my best to Nick.
Pam
Posted by: Pam on 5/17/2012 at 7:35 pm
Keep going.
Posted by: Richard Coleman on 5/17/2012 at 7:06 pm
Well hello all.
Last week temperatures were frigid. I am happy to say today was downright balmy. We'll take it.
We spent our entire day today going over some critical information. Laying the ground work for crevasse rescue. A lot of information was downloaded and everyone seemed to grasp the concepts. Knots, anchors, rappelling into a crevasse, self extrication from a crevasse were some of our topics on this beautiful day.
Kahiltna Base Camp is getting busier by the day. More and more climbers are showing up to head up Denali, other friends are finding success on various routes on the Mini Moon Flower and the North Buttress of Mt Hunter with this current stretch of superb weather.
Word on the street is temperatures are about to get really hot the next few days. We will let you know how that plays out.
Everyone is doing great and says hello.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
On The Map
Hi Eric-
See you in a couple of weeks!
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/17/2012 at 10:38 pm
Posted by: Brent Okita, Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
SUMMIT!
Our first Five Day Summit Climb of the 2012 Season reached the top of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Casey Grom and their teams reported clear skies and moderate winds. They began their descent at 7:30 a.m. and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team.
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Be safe. You are the best and most experieced guide in the world, so you really don’t need me to say “Be Safe” but we are all hearing about the conditions this year - so BE SAFE. Bill M.
Posted by: bill mcgahan on 5/19/2012 at 10:49 am
Hey Dave,
Mark Gray here. You led a climb on Rainier about 6 years ago where you were called of for a rescue of some other RMI group. It had snowed off and on through the night and we would probably would have not tried for the summit anyway. Needless to say I was amazed to even have been able to climb to camp Muir with you and have followed your Everest attempts ever since. Just wanted you to know you are in my prayers as you once again head for the the top of the world!
Posted by: Mark Gray on 5/19/2012 at 9:29 am
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