Entries from Expedition Dispatches
It was again very chilly this morning as we packed up our bags and prepared to leave our teahouse in Namche, but as soon as we started hiking the steep steps that lead out of Namche warmed us up quickly. The first few hours of the trail traversed along the hillside beyond Namche, contouring along the steep slopes above the river far below. Occasional stupas with prayer flags streaming for their gold topped spires dotted the ridge lines we traversed. The trail was bustling with activity; trains of yaks carrying loads to and from the villages higher up the valley plied the narrow path along with children heading to school, trekkers, and the average Khumbu "commuter" walking between the villages. It was another crystal clear morning and the views of Everest and it's neighboring mountains were incredible.
Finally reaching the end of the traverse in the village of Kyangjuma, we paused for some tea, much to the delight of the local Sherpani women selling jewelry along the side of the trail. With our packs a bit heavier, we descended through the pines to the river crossing at Phunki Tanga, a small village of only a few buildings sitting at the base of our big climb for the day. The trail from there ascends through pine forests, rhododendron trees, and into junipers in a seemingly endless series of switchbacks. The southern exposure of the hillside is fully exposed to the midday sun and we were soon very hot, hiking in t-shirts and shorts - a drastic change from the cold temperatures of the morning. We settled into a steady pace, slowly ticking off the switchbacks one by one, until all 1800' of the climb lay below us and we created the ridge into the village of Tengboche. Tengboche is dominated by the large monastery overlooking the center of the village, and equally by Everest and Ama Dablam which loom largely in the distance. A breeze was blowing down from the valley above and we quickly pulled on our warmer coats as we passed the monastery's front gate.
In Tengboche we treated ourselves to a slice of apple pie at the local bakery before descending the other side of the ridge a few minutes to our next tea-house in the village of Deboche, tucked away in the forest of rhododendron just below the monastery. The team is acclimatizing well and everyone felt strong today on the trail, easily navigating the trail while keeping up the light hearted jokes and banter which has become the norm on the trail. We are sending our best to everyone back home and appreciate all of the comments and good wishes left on the blog.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Taking advantage of the clear weather this morning we took a day hike above Namche. The steep steps right out of the door of the tea-house quickly got hearts pumping and we climbed out of the cold morning shadow in Namche into the morning sun above. The trail we followed ascends steeply up the hillside, making dozens of short switchbacks as it gains the flat plateau above. By the time we arrived the top, at over 12,000', we were breathing hard, feeling the effects of the new elevation. Thankfully, the trail flattened out and walked across the gentle plateau through clusters of juniper trees and fields of grass cropped short by grazing yaks.
We reached the edge of the broad bench of Namche and were greeted to incredible views of the mountains higher up the valley. Hardly a cloud hung in the sky and we could clearly see Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Taboche, and Cholatse - all famous peaks of the region. Above them all stood Everest, it's recognizable triangular summit hanging in the sky above. The winds in the upper mountains were blowing strongly this morning and the peaks had plumes of blown snow trailing off their summits and ridges. We gazed out at the mountains for a bit and then continued walking to the Everest View Hotel where we found a seat on the back patio and treated ourselves to a cup of tea while enjoying the views.
Afterward, we continued on to the village of Khumjung, a large village near Namche and where the Sir Edmund Hillary School is located - serving kids all over the region. The school was quiet since they are in the midst of their final exams but a few young boys were outside playing in the school grounds. We passed through the school and made our way back along a stone lined trail to the edge of the bench above Namche and dropped back down into town, completing a large loop.
We spent the afternoon back in Namche, taking advantage of the down time to grab a hot shower, track down an espresso at the local bakery, and peruse the many small shops on Namche.
Tomorrow we leave Namche and head further up the valley to the village of Deboche.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
I am with you guys every step of the way. I love the details. I did Annapurna BC last year and plan to do EBC & Island Peak in 2013. TREK-ON!
Posted by: Dan on 3/19/2012 at 10:50 am
You all look so comfortable in the Khumbu - I say face east and take a left at base camp and head up the mountain!! Linden- your write-ups make me feel as if I am there with you all, sans the altitude. Girls- keep well and have FUN! Renee- right behind you so trek on. Richmond is warm and all the trees are blooming- pollen city soon. LOVE to you all plus Linden and Jeff.
Posted by: Elsie on 3/19/2012 at 5:56 am
We hit the trail early this morning, contouring along the hillsides of the gradually narrowing valley, occasionally crossing back and forth above the Dudh Kosi River on long suspension bridges. After a couple of hours of walking we hit the entrance to Sagamartha National Park, the park that encompasses the upper region of the Khumbu Valley, including Mt. Everest.
After pausing for tea and snacks, we tackled the big climb of the day - the 2,500' ascent up mountain side to reach the village of Namche Bazaar. The ascent is a series of switchbacks and long traverses through pine forest. Being south facing it is typically very hot and dusty but by the time we reached the climb, clouds were forming and kept the temperatures very comfortable. Everyone hiked well, making good time up the trail and by mid afternoon we rounded the corner and walked into Namche Bazaar.
Situated at 11,300' in a shallow drainage perched on the hillside, Namche is the center of trade and commerce for the upper portion of the Khumbu Valley. It's location at the convergence of several trade routes - some all the way to Tibet - and the fresh water springs in its heart made it a meeting grounds many centuries ago and it remains the largest town in the region today. The entire town is built in a series of horseshoe shaped terraces up the hillside. At over 11,000', it is easy to feel the altitude when just walking around. We walked through Namche's narrow streets to our teahouse and arrived just as the clouds began letting occasional snowflakes fall from the sky.
We are heading out on a day hike tomorrow to several villages nearby before returning for Namche for the evening. The group is in great spirits and more than eager to check out the offerings of Namche's many shops tomorrow afternoon when we return.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
I am with you guys every step in spirit. So exciting. I am planning to do this trek and climb in 2013. I did the Annapurna BC trek in 2011 and I did the fly-by of the Khumbu area. I love reading your dispatches. Trek-On!
Posted by: Dan on 3/18/2012 at 3:43 pm
Stay strong ladies! Glad to hear that everyone is healthy and doing well. Savor the experience!
Posted by: Daniel LeBey on 3/18/2012 at 7:53 am
We left the hotel well before sunrise this morning, driving through the nearly deserted streets of Kathmandu to the domestic airport. We hauled all of our gear through the narrow entryway and into the terminal, found our flight to Lukla, and as the sun rose just before 7am we were already taking our seats in the plane. Yesterday afternoon's clouds and light rain dissipated overnight and the morning sun shone through clear skies - perfect flying weather. We buckled our seat belts tight, took the cotton balls offered by the flight attendant and crammed them into our ears, and then took off from Kathmandu. True to their name, the STOL (Short Take Off Landing) airplanes we fly in get airborne in a matter of a few hundred meters and we were soon flying above the outskirts of Kathmandu and over the hills of the Terai - the middle section of Nepal and the foothills of the Himalaya. Flying east we had incredible views of the Himalayas out of the side of the plane and we spent the entire flight staring through the windows at the countryside below and the mountains hanging in the distance.
The flight was amazingly smooth, hardly a spot of turbulence - uncommon for flights around mountains of this size, and we soon banked a hard turn to the north and descended into the Khumbu Valley. The airport at Lukla is a short strip of tarmac noticeably slanted and the landings there are always...exciting. The approach takes the flight directly at the hillside until the entire mountain fills the view through the cockpit window and then in the span of several football fields the planes go from airborne to stopped. The pilots pulled off the smoothest landing I have ever had in Lukla and within minutes we were stepping off of the plane and onto the footpaths of Lukla.
Needing a little bit of time to get all of our gear from the flights we sat down in a tea-house near the airport and had breakfast, tea and coffee before hitting the trail.
Lukla sits several days walk from the nearest road head and only footpaths connect all of the villages up here - there isn't an automobile for dozens of miles in any direction. All transportation takes place on the stone lined trails, carried by animals or on your back. It is a far cry from the chaotic traffic jams of Kathmandu and a welcome relief to hear no horns or engines. Leaving Lukla, which sits about 1500' above the valley floor, we made a long, gradual traverse down to the Dudh Kosi river. The trail passes through fields of recently planted crops of cabbage, carrots, potatoes, wheat, and other vegetables and between the stone walls of small villages dotted along the way. Every so often the trail splits around giant boulders carved with Buddhist prayers or wraps around the stupas and prayer wheels.
For fear of falling into romanticism too easily, I'll simply say that it is a beautiful walk with sights and sounds to be seen in every direction. Hanging above it all are the giant snow covered peaks of the Himalaya. At 15,000 - 20,000' they are minor mountains compared to their neighbors to the north, but seen from the valley floor far below they are impressive. We walked for several hours through the fields and villages, crossing occasional suspension bridges across side rivers.
By mid-afternoon we reached the village of Phakding and settled into our tea-house. Sitting right along the edge of the Dudh Kosi River - which means Milk River due to its milky blue color from the glacial sediment it carries - our tea-house is tucked away in a quiet spot with views up and down the valley. We spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in the sun in the grassy terraces in front of our rooms before the mountain's shadows brought the evening chill. We sat down in the dining room around the wood burning stove and had an excellent first meal in the Khumbu, enjoying some delicious momos - the local dumplings.
Tomorrow we head further up the valley to Namche Bazaar, the cultural and economic center of the region. The team is in great spirits.
Everyone is feeling healthy and well and we are all very excited to at last be on the trail.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Hey Jane—love the top by the way!! I bet this is alot more fun than Avon!!??
Posted by: Bonnie Pringle on 3/18/2012 at 1:40 pm
Way to go Bowman!!!! I am so proud of you—still cannot believe you are doing this!!!!!
Posted by: Bonnie Pringle on 3/18/2012 at 1:33 pm
We had a busy day here in Kathmandu preparing for Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak adventures. We spent the better part of the morning discussing the plan, logistics, and gear needed for the trip, making the final preparations and sort of our gear before loading it all into our duffel bags in anticipation of tomorrow morning's departure. After weeks spent collecting all of the gear we need and thousands of miles of travel to get it here, it is exciting to have everything packed and ready to go.
After lunch we plunged into Kathmandu to visit several of the city's renowned UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Stopping first at the Pashputinath Temple, we walked between the small shrines and many temples dotting the banks of the Baghmati River observing the activities of Nepal's most holy Hindu cremation site. Deep in the heart of this city of 4 million, the temple grounds were bustling with families and ceremonies.
Moving across town a little ways, we then spent some time exploring the Boudhanath Stupa, the largest Buddhist Stupa (temple) in Nepal and the starting point for any pilgrimage the Nepalese Buddhist undertake.
Spanning an area the size of a football field, the sprawling stupa's white washed walls are constantly circled by streams of visitors and worshipers.
We then climbed the long set of stairways to Sawayambunath Stupa.
Nicknamed the Monkey Temple by Kathmandu's hippie visitors in the '60s, the temple grounds sit atop a hill overlooking the city and true to its name, is home to a large number of monkeys that swing from the strings of prayer flags and scramble across the golden roofs of the shrines, all the while waiting patiently for the misattention of a visitor to grab their snacks or drinks.
After the tour we headed into Thamel, the throbbing center of Kathmandu to get dinner. Navigating the narrow streets packed full of shops selling knock-off outdoor gear, taxis, visitors, and street vendors hawking local jewelry, we ate at one of my favorite restaurants in Kathmandu before turning in for the evening. We have an early ride to the airport tomorrow morning for our flight into the mountains to the village of Lukla.
We will check in tomorrow from the Khumbu!
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
The team convened in Kathmandu today to kick off our Everest Base Camp Trek and climb of Island Peak. A heavy rain blew through Kathmandu last night, clearing the skies this morning for gorgeous views of the surrounding hills and the peaks of the Himalaya looming in the distance. Everyone arrived as scheduled today, easily retrieving bags and passing through customs. We loaded all of the gear into the back of the van and plunged into the busy streets of Kathmandu, navigating between the taxis, buses, rickshaws, street vendors, and pedestrians on our way to the hotel. Life in Kathmandu happens on the streets, from buying daily groceries to sipping tea and we slowly made our way through it all, taking in everything as we navigated the streets.
We will do the final round of packing our gear for the mountains tomorrow before heading out to visit the streets and landmarks of Kathmandu. After months of preparation and days of travel we are excited to be here with the trip finally underway.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Posted by: Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
After an excellent climb with perfect conditions our team descended to Tlachichuca. It was hard to believe that all in the same day we could have climbed again by moonlight, this time looking at Popo and Ixta hit by the morning sun. It was a warm day and our team did a fantastic job handling the high altitude and moving securely in the rarified air. Again, our timing was ideal, just as we pulled into the hut to pack, the clouds rolled in and obscured the mountain. These were some of the best climbing conditions I have seen down here and the entire team appreciated the chance to stand on top in warm, windless weather.
Now we bid our farewells and look forward to the next time we all get to try our hand at climbing these sleeping giants. Though this trip will be tough to top, til then!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Greetings from the top of Orizaba!
We had a beautiful day climbing up today. A beautiful moon to climb with, amazing shadows from Popo and Ixta and the team did super well.
So, we are psyched. We are happy we are up here. Pretty soon we'll start walking down. We will give a shout from Tlachichuca when we get down this afternoon.
It has been a great climb and we are going to keep it rolling.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
RMI Guide Jake Beren calls from the summit of Pico de Orizaba.
On The Map
Hello this is Jake checking in from Mexico.
We are at Piedra Grande, the hut on Pico de Orizaba. After a day of rest in Puebla, we took off for Tlachichuca early this morning. After meeting with Dr. Reyes at his family's climber hostile we took four wheel drive vehicles up to the hut. We are turning in early to prepare for our climb tonight. It is a little cloudy right now but other than that conditions are pretty good. The peak comes out now and again and we are hoping things clear out for our climb tomorrow.
Wish us luck! We will call in tomorrow.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from the climber's hut on Pico de Orizaba.
On The Map
Posted by: Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Well it's been quite a day. This morning (technically speaking) we arose to a pretty full moon and gave climbing Ixta a shot. The past few mornings have had Popo's (Ixta's neighboring volcano and protector) smoky plume ascending straight into the sky. These "no wind" mornings are a treat to climb in and this morning was certainly a treat. Our team cruised the perfect conditions left by last month's storms and stood on top early this morning. We were able to see Orizaba in first light looming over Puebla where we now rest. Popo's aforementioned plume actually glowed red with the magma exposed in it's crater! I've never seen it do that before. On our descent Ixta's shadow stretched for miles and we pulled into camp seemingly just as a cold front made it's way to the mountain. Quite a day.
Now for a little R&R here in Puebla before heading to Orizaba.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
I am jealous, as the weather on our trip was not so cooperative. Congrats to the team!
Posted by: Peter Rogers on 3/9/2012 at 11:33 am
Red hot Magma?
Posted by: Hannah on 3/8/2012 at 9:26 am
Another great day for the Team. Should we worry that any of you may convert and stay behind in one of those beautiful Buddhist monastaries? Good luck on your next hike to 14,000’. It’ll be a piece of cake for his team!
Posted by: Hugh on 3/20/2012 at 2:54 pm
Hi Guys! The students at UCLAN University in the UK and are currently in the process of producing a musical courtesy of richard taylor and roger haines about the history, trials and tradgedies of climbing mount Everest. We would all first like to say how inspirational you all are and think its an amazing thing you are doing!!! We just wondered if anyone can tell us how big the top of summit actually is? BEST WISHSES AND GOOD LUCK TO YOU ALL!!! X X X
Posted by: Aine O'Grady on 3/20/2012 at 1:43 pm
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