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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Linden Mallory & Team Gather in Anchorage

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

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Good evening from the land of the midnight sun. The RMI June 21st Mt. McKinley Expedition Team gathered in Anchorage this afternoon, overcoming the first potential obstacle of any climbing expedition - the moment when you find out if all of the gear that you've spent days and weeks meticulously sorting and packing actually arrives with you after the flights. Thankfully, all the needed bags popped out on to the conveyor belt at Ted Stevens Airport at one point or another. After loading the van with our gear we headed out of town, low lying clouds hanging above Anchorage and just obscuring the peaks of the Chugach that border town. After a quick grocery stop in Wasilla (yes, the legendary Wasilla, AK) we kept driving up the Parks Highway as the skies gradually broke. By the time we arrived in Talkeetna the mountains of the Alaska Range were beginning to poke out of the clouds in the distance and we spent a few minutes on the edge of town admiring the views. Tomorrow we will spend the day organizing our gear and getting ready for the mountain. It has been many months of preparation an thousands of miles traveled to arrive here and the excitement about the adventures ahead is growing. It is 11:30 at night here in Alaska and we just watched the sun finally settle out of the sky, disappearing the peaks of the Alaska Range that sit on the horizon. Happy Summer Solstice to everyone. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Retrieve Supplies

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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Another early wake up to good weather; good weather for Denali anyway. The skies were a bit overcast and light snows were falling but the winds were calm. We did a "back carry" today. This means that we went from our 11,000' camp back down to retrieve our cache at 10,000'. We bury our caches well over a meter deep so the ravens don't get into our food if the warm days melt the snow. Our strong team ascended back up to camp with style and spent another afternoon sport eating in the posh house (cook tent). RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jeff the temp has dropped to 80F today and lots of rain.  We will probably need to build a fire tonight.

Posted by: Allen on 6/22/2011 at 11:32 am

Ravens, huh? Those things are scary. Meanwhile, I’m stuck out here in 100 degree Walnut Creek with wild turkeys…Thinking about you all.

Posted by: Yashu on 6/22/2011 at 8:35 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 21st - Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Four Day Summit Climb June 18 - 21 Team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. It's a beautiful day with blue skies and sunshine. The team began their descent from the crater rim at 7:58 a.m. en route to Camp Muir. They will continue down to Paradise later this afternoon. Congratulations to the team members!
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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team at 11,000’ Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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We left camp this morning on our way to 11,000' camp in okay weather only to end up climbing in white-out conditions. Despite the poor weather, we made good time and arrived in camp mid-morning. We dug in a great camp and spent some time making our cook tent (the posh house) into a kitchen and dining area that would make Martha Stewart proud. We then proceeded to "sport eat" all afternoon and into the evening. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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PATRICK!  11,000’!  The PG&E trail is less than child’s play in comparison! 

Been keeping up with the blog - looks like you’ve got a great team!  I hope all is well! Good job on killing your finals and winning at life.

-Janina

Posted by: Janina on 6/22/2011 at 12:08 am

Nice work mike and team!

Posted by: Sam2 on 6/21/2011 at 6:38 am

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren & Team Take Another Day at 14K

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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Greetings from 14,000’ camp on Mt. McKinley. Part any mountain adventure is reacting to the weather conditions. And today’s weather has us waiting, resting and acclimatizing for another day. The team is getting better acquainted as our conversations are ranging much further today than on previous rest day. Our spirits remain high as we sit here in great shape with our cache already stored above the fixed line. Now we're just waiting for a good weather window to make our move to High Camp at 17,000’ and then a bid for the top. So we are patiently waiting: relaxing, drinking tea, and enjoying each other’s company here at 14 camp. We'll hang tight up here and wait for a good stretch of weather, to go higher. That's all the news from Mt. McKinley and we'll be talking to you soon. RMI Guide Jake Beren and Team
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Dear Vince,  How are you all fairing waiting this weather out.?  I hope you will be able to start again soon.  Serena home from Europe this Sat, i was thinking you would be Sun but that seems not to be.  At least I will have one of my beloved crew back with me and the little boys.  We are fine, just waiting and watching for news from you.  I can’t wait for dinner at The Serbian Crown with our favorite meal and just the two of us….I love you,  please be careful, come home to us!  Lea

Posted by: Lea Vilasi on 6/23/2011 at 5:43 am

We are wondering if you are climbing today?  You have a new future climbing partner-Lilah Anne Uchal, born today June 22 at 11:43 am.  7 lbs and 6 oz.  Healthy and ready to go!  Good luck to you all, as well as to Lilah!!
Kathy

Posted by: kathy Uchal on 6/22/2011 at 3:30 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 20 - Teams on the Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb June 17 - 20 led by Mark Falendar and J.J. Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:00 a.m. PT. They reported gusty winds and cold temperatures but blue skies above them and great views all around. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams!
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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move to 9,500’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,500'

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We bit off another chunk of the mountain with our move to 9,500' camp today. The weather threatened to close in on us around mid-morning with clouds surrounding us and a bit of snow. Around noon, the clouds cleared and the sun warmed us up as we finished out our day with a hard afternoon of napping. Slow is steady and steady is fast. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

papabear,

I’ve officially posted this blog on my facebook. Prepare for an avalanch (is that word taboo??) of comments/support/love. miss you! we have SO much to catch up on-COME.HOME.FASTER.!

love you!

ps. dying to know how that salmon jerky tastes…

Posted by: Meera on 6/22/2011 at 7:17 am

Hi ashok and sreekanth uncle!

You guys rock !!!!!

Watching your progress all the way from Australia..good luck and will speak to you soon..

Chandru

Posted by: Chandru on 6/22/2011 at 12:11 am

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren & Team Training at 14,000’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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Hello, this is Jake Beren with the RMI McKinley Expedition. We would like to wish everybody a Happy Father's Day from 14,000 feet on Denali. Today we rested at camp and used the opportunity to practice our fixed line and running belay techniques to get ready for the upper mountain. With the weather system kind of sitting over the mountain right now it looks like we might have another day or two here at our 14,000’ camp. But our fingers are crossed that will be heading up to 17,000’ and then getting our chance at a summit attempt in the not too distance future. So wish us well from down low. Again, Happy Father's Day to all the proud papas out there. We'll be checking in from either here or higher up. Thanks everybody, and will be talking to you soon.
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Hey Barry!OMG! nearly at the summit now babe,ah so proud off ya hun,you & all the team are doing amazing.I am following your every step.So much is happening back here Barry cant even believe it myself, cant wait to tell ya all the exciting news.I’m praying for you everyday day babe Love you & stay stronge, can’t wait to see you. xxx Leah

Posted by: leah on 6/21/2011 at 12:12 pm

Hi John!

Dad & I are keeping in touch with your progress, and hoping all is going well!!  “Bo” and “Gim” are getting along fine.  Emily is staying w/us, next week!!  Hope the weather cooperates for your summit!

Mom

Posted by: clarice Weiss on 6/21/2011 at 8:32 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 19th - Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb June 16 - 19 led by Seth Waterfall and Gabriel Barral reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 7 a.m. PT. The teams reported light winds from the north and sunny skies. Congratulations to the teams!
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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Jones & Team Return to 11,000’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

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The crew continues to impress. Today we once again met our goal of arriving back at 11000'. We enjoyed another priceless day climbing down the West Buttress to 14,00' camp to gather our cache and leftover food. The team took a couple hour rest before continuing down to the now thick air of 11000'. Tonight we all contributed the last of our meats, cheeses and bread products for a well deserved greasy fry pan delight. Now for some sleep and one last early start and our final long walk of Kahiltna Glacier to base camp. The weather at Kahiltna International Airport in the morning will determine our true final step in completing this incredible adventure. One last quote for the evening, shared from Lisa at base camp a few nights ago: "The summit is for the ego, the journey is for the soul." What a journey we have had!
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Hi Larry,
What an experience you and the team must have had up there. Can’t wait to hear more about the trip from you.
Congrats to all,
From your proud sis.

Posted by: Debbie on 6/20/2011 at 9:57 pm

Great job to the whole team! Soak up the views on the way down and enjoy the end of the journey. Craig and Josh, so proud of you guys! I can’t wait to see pictures and hear your stories. Big thanks to Tyler and team for keeping up in the loop.

Craig, miss you and see you soon in Alaska! Love Susan

Posted by: Susan on 6/19/2011 at 1:53 pm

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