Entries from Expedition Dispatches
The team woke early to the most incredible weather, no wind, blue skies, and sun on the tents. Although the over night temps dipped to -15F, the sun quickly warmed our group and fired up our motivation for a long day of hard work. By 9:30 we were headed back into the shade of the Autobahn and climbing up to Denali Pass, kicking steps into the soft, steep snow. Our crew set the track for the day being the first out. Two hours of cold shady trail breaking led us back to the sun and our first windless break at 18,300ft where spirits were rejuvenated. We continued to press higher and higher, until we arrived onto the flat plateau of the Football Field where the solar radiation had it feeling more like a day at the beach than 19,500' on Denali. One final grind up Pig Hill and we were on the summit ridge, with only one stretch between our team and the top of the continent. The clear weather gave us hundreds of miles of views in every direction, with only a few scattered clouds way below us to add texture to the breathtaking scenery. A few tears were shed as we climbed the final few feet to the summit, and then it was all smiles, hugs, and mugging for the obligatory summit photos. We stood on top for a half hour or so, and then began the descent back to thicker air and our cozy camp. What an incredible day in the mountains for our team!
We're settled in now and planning for a fairly early launch back down the mountain. Our goal is 14k camp and the rest of our gear, then a quick trip downhill to 11k.
We're all tired, sore, hungry, thirsty...but ultimately incredibly happy and proud of today's accomplishment. Kudos to everyone on the team, and thanks to everyone out there pulling for us!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Billy Nugent and our Four Day Summit climb teams made it to the top of Disappointment Cleaver. Due to weather they chose to make this their high point for the climb and descend safely back to Camp Muir. The team should arrive back to Rainier Basecamp in the early afternoon.
Jake, Gilbert & Mike called in from their 14,000' Camp. All is well and they will send another update soon.
Tyler called from the summit of Denali at 5:35 pm PST. He said it was a perfect and beautiful day for their summit climb. It was chilly at the top so they spent a little bit of time taking pictures and will be heading back down soon. Everyone on the trip is doing great and he will send a full dispatch when he gets back to 17,000' camp.
Congratulations Team!
On The Map
A crisp early morning wake up in basecamp meant great traveling conditions for us as we eased our way up the glacier. It froze solid last night making our travel through crevassed terrain much safer. We carried our full loads of climbing and camping supplies as well as 21 days of food and fuel. Even with each of our sled and backpack combos nearing 100 lbs., we made the move to our new camp in exactly five hours. We are all feeling very fortunate to be sharing this extraordinary place with such a strong team.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Brent Okita, Leon Davis and Teams made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier today with clear skies, light winds, and a very beautiful morning.
The started their descent from the summit at 8:00 a.m.
Congratulations summit climbs!
We went to bed last evening to a blue bird sky after nearly 8 inches of new snow during the day. Today we woke to the same, blue bird weather and light wind. The crew broke camp at 14K fairly early, in good fashion, and headed on our way to the fixed lines. The clear sky made for a bone chilling morning until the major work up the lines started and we were greeted by the welcome rays of the sun, which warmed our souls. The West Buttress was windless and by far provided us with the best views and exposure the team has faced. The clear day gave us views over 10,000' below to the lower Kahiltna Glacier, while Denali stood proud and urged us higher. It was as good as it gets; in fact several folks said it was their best day climbing ever. We climbed for more than six hours so the the team is definitely enjoying some down time while trapping some evening heat in the tents.
With a bit of luck from the weather and wind we will shoot for a summit in the AM on the 17th. Thank you all for the warm wishes - the team has greatly enjoyed all the comments. Keep the positive vibes. We will report back soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team!
On The Map
After waiting at the airstrip in Talkeetna all morning due to socked in conditions at basecamp, the sky cleared and off to the mountain we flew. We arrived to beautiful weather at our basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier.
We set up camp, did some crevasse rescue practice, ate dinner, and prepared our sleds. Currently, we are tucked away in our tents trying to sleep through the midnight sun before our very early departure up the frozen glacier to 7,800 ft.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Hello, this is Jake Beren with the RMI Mt. McKinley Expedition calling from 14,000’ camp. We arrived here yesterday and are happy in our brand new home and happy place. Before moving camp we made a carry the day before with our gear.
The team is looking great, very strong as we climbed yesterday. We arrived late afternoon and set up shop.
Today we are going to do a little bit of training and potentially make a back carry to pick up our cache. So all's well here, it’s a beautiful sunny day here in the Genae Basin. We are looking up at the fixed lines.
The RMI Team lead by Tyler Jones made their move to 17,000’ camp this morning and are just doing great and heading up the West Buttress as we speak.
So, that's all from 14,000’ on Mt. McKinley. It's great to be here with a good crew. We'll be checking in the future.
This is Jake, Mike, Gilbert and team standing by at 14,000’.
The RMI Four Day Summit Climbs June 13 - 16 led by Win Whittaker and Nate Disser reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. At 7:25 a.m. PT the teams were beginning their descent from the crater rim. They reported cold temperatures and high winds. They were enjoying clear skies with a cloud deck below them around 7,000'.
The Expedition Skill Seminar - Emmons led by Jason Thompson also reached the summit this morning via the Emmons Glacier. Their team arrived at the top of the crater around 8:25 a.m. PT and were enjoying some warm sunshine after a cold and windy ascent. The team will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain and some additional training.
Congratulations to the teams!
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DEAREST BEN, CAN’T WAIT TO HEAR THE STORIES OF THIS
ONCE IN A LIFETIME TRIP. SO VERY HAPPY YOU ALL MADE IT
TO THE SUMMIT SAFELY, CAN ONLY IMAGINE THE FEELING YOU MUST HAVE HAD. CONGRATULATONS ONCE MORE. A VERY SAFE RETURN TO ALL OF YOU. GOD BLESS YOU ALL. TE QUIERO MUCHO Y MUY ORGULLOSA DE TI. MA
Posted by: carmen keegan on 6/19/2011 at 4:52 am
Incredible experience you all are having! Congratulations on the safe summit! Reading the updates have been quite enjoyable.
Hope the rest of the trek goes well, Justin and Dad, us here in Columbia are cheering for you.
Posted by: Jacob Halls on 6/18/2011 at 8:03 pm
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