Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Hello friends, families, Farmer Dave and anyone else out there who might be following our blog. We have just kicked off the first Ecuador Expedition of 2023. It started with a rainy travel day and a rainy day for our Quito city tour (although a few of us still managed minor sunburns). Today, we took our first acclimatization hike and were surprised/delighted to wake up to partially sunny skies! 

The hike up Rucu Pichincha is really quite scenic. I think it’s my favorite day hike in the world that is more or less in a major metropolitan area. A gondola takes us to 13,000’ where we begin our ascent to the summit of Rucu Pichincha (13,354’). Along the way there are a variety of wildflowers and the final push to the summit is engaging, involving a short section of class 3 scrambling. 

I should also mention that the team is in good health, especially thanks to the newly renovated penthouse spa here at the Hotel Mercure. Many of us have used this opportunity to cycle cold plunges and wet sauna or cold plunges and hot tubbing. Henry, the ultimate masochist, prefers cold plunge only, first thing in the morning. 

Tomorrow we will depart Quito early to head north. The itinerary of this trip has us working our way from north to south, making attempts on Cayambe, Antisana and Chimborazo. These are the 3rd, 4th and 1st highest mountains in Ecuador, respectively. We also hope to capture a glimpse of Cotopaxi, which is normally on the itinerary but was scratched this time due to recent eruptions and a moratorium on summit bids. Better to witness that from a safe distance. 

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Howdy all,

After a somewhat fitful nights sleep accompanied by the barking of our new dog friend and the whineying of mules, the team awoke to some slightly threatening skies. Luckily we had the reprieve of our dome tent to allow for an easy morning breakfast and coffee. As if the coffee wasn't enough to wake us up we began the morning crossing the Vacas River to enter into the Relinchos Valley. The mules were hot on our tail as we began our gradual ascent to Plaza de Argentina Basecamp. Once gaining a high platuea we received our second view of Ameghino and Aconcagua. The stoke rose with the elevation. We were greeted warmly to Plaza de Argentina with some tasty and warm lentil soup, juice, dulce de leche and fresh fruit. The afternoon was spent taking in the panoramic views and lots of relaxing. After another delicious meal and some fine Mendoza malbec, the team, full, happy and tired, retreated to their tents. That's it for now, tune in next time!

RMI Guides Hannah, Ben, Dan and the team

Our team will take another weather day at Camp 2. Strong winds and lots of snow will keep us from moving up hill today. Tomorrow is our last chance to move to High Camp. We will hope to have a summit bid on the 14th. The team is hunkered down in their tents as 40 mph wind gusts roar through camp.

RMI Guide Mike King

Hey-O,

Another day down. We woke to clear skies and a brisk temperature, after some coffee and breakfast we hit the trail.

At Lenas we made friends with a cute dog, and she has decided to continue along with us. A short way into our day we crossed a bridge over the Vacas River. She began winning and refused to cross, choosing the river instead! The river swept her away until she clung to a rock! One of our brave climbers leapt into action and went to the rock and plucked her out by her scruff. Hopefully that is the most excitement of our trip!!

The team cruised up valley making easy work of the day. Our new four legged friend stayed with us the whole time. The winds picked up towards the end, as per usual, for this camp. When we arrived, we enjoyed some down time waiting for our duffels in an empty dome tent. There we cooked dinner and chatted before bedtime.

Tomorrow, we take a hard left into the Relinchos Valley which will take us to basecamp. We are all excited for the amenities that come with basecamp, including some Wi-Fi to share some photos. It's early to bed for us so we can rest up for tomorrow’s trek.

Talk to tomorrow,

RMI Guides Hannah, Ben, Dan and Team

Our Camp 2 staycation continues with a weather day. The winds are blowing above with lots of snow transport. We went for a walk and are enjoying warm tents with some Pink Floyd playing in the background. The appetites are still strong and team is getting restless. The 14th looks like the best summit day when considering wind speed and trail breaking.

Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King

We woke in our beds ready to start the day. We ate breakfast, grabbed our duffels, and loaded the van. A quick 45 minute drive (there was air breaking being done by all) brought us to Penitentes. We weighed our duffels for the mules and reloaded the van to bring to the trailhead. The team made quick work of today's hike. Lulls of no breeze made for a hot walk but when the wind did hit it it was the best feeling. A couple rest breaks and some frogger with another team got us to camp. To say we are roughing it would be a lie. We enjoyed melon and nuts for a snack at a picnic table waiting for our mule team to arrive. For dinner was Carne Asada, chorizo, potatoes, cabbage salad, bread and wine.  No complaints over here. Things will get tougher, but not just yet. Tomorrow is another day hiking along the Vacas River. Weather was good today and hopefully good tomorrow.

Good night all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Ben, Dan and team

Today our Aconcagua Team is taking a rest day at Camp 2, 18,000'. We had a cold night with light winds that blew the weather pattern of the last five days out of the area. Dark clouds and high winds plague the summit. We'll focus on eating, rest and hydration. Our plan will be to move up to High Camp up the 12th, and make our summit attempt on the 13th. We are hoping the snow firms up and we get clear weather.

RMI Guide Mike King

We made our carry to high camp at 19,600' today. The mornings continue to be clear, calm and provide spectacular views of the Central Andes. The afternoon blizzards with scorching heat and thunder snow continue as if set by a Swiss watchmaker.

We will rest tomorrow and see what the winds do. The consensus of longtime local guides is this amount of snow, lack of wind and heat is unique when compared to the last 15-20 years.

RMI Guide Mike King and Team

And we are off! RMI's second team of the Aconcagua season has officially begun.

Everyone has arrived in Mendoza feeling well. It's been a busy couple days sorting gear, grocery shopping and locating duffels. We are ready to hit the dusty trail, but first we needed to do some introductions and toast a glass of wine to celebrate being a team with the same goal of having fun, learning something new, and hopefully standing on top of this tall, tall mountain.

No good night ends without something sweet, so the team enjoyed some yummy Gelato before sinking into their beds. Only one more night in a bed before we take to the sleeping pads and sleeping bags. Tomorrow, we hit the road to Uspallata where we will do more gear sorting for the mules and our journey to basecamp. A 3-day hike up the Vacas and the Relinchos valleys will bring us to basecamp where we will gear up for the upper mountain. For now, we rest our heads on our comfy bed enjoying the simple comforts.

Buenos Noches,

RMI Guides Hannah Smith, Ben Luedtke, Dan May, and Team 

Today we moved camp to 18,000'. The clear mornings and snowstorms in the afternoon trend continues. We got a heat wave of calm air and lots of sun on new snow reflecting off the hillsides. Once through the Col we got some respite but it was not to last as the subtle breeze died as we built camp and the frying of skin began again. We are in tents with snow falling. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King