Entries from Expedition Dispatches
May 11, 2018
The Five Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Bryan Mazaika reached 11,000’ on their summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning before poor weather and visibility forced the team to turn at Ingraham Flats. Brent reported cold and windy temperatures with some blowing snow. The team is back at Camp Muir and will start their descent at 9 am. They will be back at Rainier Basecamp in the early afternoon.
Congratulations to today’s Team!
Climbing mountains has never entered my mind in the past as a challenging activity in which I would want to participate. However, since my son, Frank in this week’s climb, began his quest to reach the summit of each of the 50 states, I have begun to look more closely at the challenges faced by such intrepid climbers. I have found this RMI web site has some of the best information on many of the desirable mountains. I was disappointed, though, not to find any information about Britton Hill “:-)” included.
Seriously, I pray for the success of this week’s climb and the safety of all the members. May God go with you all.
Posted by: Fred Wendt on 5/12/2018 at 9:31 am
May 8, 2018
The Five Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Mike King reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team reported clear skies with light winds. After enjoying some time in the crater the group will return to Camp Muir. They will spend the night at Camp Muir and descend to Paradise tomorrow.
Congratulations to today’s climbers!
The climb was amazing and the views were unlike any views I had ever seen. I owe a huge “Thank you” to our superhuman guides Geoff Schellens, Ben Markhart, and Hannah McGowan. These three were extremely knowledgeable, professional, encouraging, and super cool to hang with. RMI is very lucky to have them on their team. I will definitely use RMI in the future. Thank you all for this life changing experience!
Posted by: Brody Ford on 5/10/2018 at 10:28 pm
The Denali expedition, with Walter Hailes, starts on May 25th. Please sign up for the expedition email alerts below.
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May 5, 2018
The Five Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Andy Bond reached 11,800’ feet this morning before weather and route conditions forced them to abort their summit attempt. The team has had two great days on the mountain, they are back at Camp Muir and will return to Rainier Basecamp in the early afternoon.
Congratulations to today’s team!
I was part of this climb and was honored to meet, get to know and climb with some truly amazing people.
Cannot say enough good things about the most terrific guides on the planet earth. Intelligent, focused, superb situational awareness, competent and capable. They worked incredibly hard to try to make it possible for us to summit, despite all that nature and the mountain threw at us. Hats off to them.
Survival was the very most important goal, and I always felt their every move started and ended with that as the ultimate objective. I would trust these folks any where at any time. I have learned that when you out someone under intense stress, the true qualities of their character are revealed. The RMI guides showed they were flawless gems that shone brightly under the pressure. Many thanks for going up and being able to write this from back home.
Posted by: Ron Prichard on 5/7/2018 at 4:49 am
RMI Guides Brent Okita and Bryan Mazaika with their Five Day Summit Climb Teams reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier this morning. Brent reported high winds and thus a quick turn around. The team is en route to Camp Muir where they will take a quick break and repack before continuing down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to the first summit climb team of the 2018 season!
And we flew out!
We got in a day early, and flew out a day early too, as to secure our exit off the glacier with the great weather we had: the runway at the Root Canal Glacier is no major airport where to secure a flight under the action of the elements.
The trip ran very smoothly, and we’re happy to have tackled this ultra classic line, “Ham and Eggs” up the Moose’s Tooth, which is without a doubt, a haunting peak in the Alaska Range.
Vanessa and Taylor trained the necessary technical skills not only to overcome the difficulties of the route, but to shine for the hours on end that climbing 3,000ft of steep ice, snow and mixed terrain entails in the remoteness of this environment. Now the team has parted ways, and we feel proud and accomplished.
Regards from Anchorage!
Good afternoon from the Root Canal Glacier! We just descended from a successful, safe and adventurous climb up the Ham & Eggs Route on Moose’s Tooth. We left yesterday at 6am, with great weather and enthusiasm. The route started very well, in great condition. The upper half, though, was bullet proof ice, which slowed our progress a bit. But we managed to maintain our calfs alive pitch after pitch of relentless intermediate angle blue alpine ice. After finishing, we stuck to our plan of spending the night at the col; perched at 10,000ft, on the exposed and corniced saddle that greets the few mortals who venture up this, one of the most impressive granite massifs of the Alaska Range. After a true alpine bivi, with our ropes as sleeping pads for the bottom half of our bodies, a two-person tent for three, and a belay to go to the bathroom, we woke up to questionable weather this morning, and so, we started our descent; some 16 rappels back down to the glacier. Now we’re back to our fresh vegetables, steak and beverages of choice at our camp. Our next report will be after we fly out from Talkeetna.
Greetings from The Root Canal Glacier! We were able to fly in yesterday, a day ahead of schedule thanks to our fantastic air taxi, K2, who had our logistics all planned upon our arrival in Talkeetna. We dug our camp right before the night fell, and enjoyed our first Alaskan dinner on the glacier. Today we dragged our feet and enjoyed the sunrise in our tent. After breakfast, we decided to go for a few pitches of the route, as to build team communications and to warm up for the big push. Now, we’ll just take the best day that the weather throws at us; the Moose’s Tooth awaits!
Super stoked to read the blog. My wife is fearless. I’m so proud of your accomplishment Vanessa and your first bivi! Mick and I can’t wait for the photos and the story! Love Mickey and Brett.
Posted by: Brett Calta on 4/12/2018 at 10:57 am
Impressive journal entry detailing your activities. Thinking of you all. Stay safe and so proud of you all, challenging yourselves and living the life!
Posted by: Lori Briggs on 4/12/2018 at 5:59 am
March 31, 2018
Posted by: Casey Grom
Back safe and sound in Kathmandu!
Flight out of Lukla went smooth.
Everyone is enjoying the comforts here at the Yak & Yeti hotel, along with hot showers, good food, and the warm temps.
It’s been one amazing adventure with a great team and it will be sad to say goodbye, but we are all looking forward to getting back home to our loved ones.
Thanks for following.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and a happy crew
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March 30, 2018
Posted by: Casey Grom
We woke to a little new snow today, but thankfully it cleared before our final hike to Lukla. We started early to beat the traffic and made good time, yet taking time to enjoy this peaceful and majestic place.
There were still dozens of loads headed for Base Camp as always, because much of the needed supplies arrive via plane or from a few days away by mules.
We also ran into several more friends on the trail headed for Everest and it was nice to say hello and wish them luck.
With a little luck we hope to be back in Kathmandu tomorrow morning!
Keep your fingers crossed for us.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
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Glad EBC was good. I am at OR2K in Pokhara now- down from the mountains this morning. Chillin here until 3rd. Happy Easter
Posted by: Elsie on 3/31/2018 at 2:58 am