Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Greetings and Hello (Hola) from Chile everyone!

The gang is all here, everyone has safely arrived and it’s great to have the team back together again.

Today was technically a down or rest day for us after all the long fights, but this team isn’t known for sitting around much. So after a nice breakfast and plenty of coffee and catching up, the group headed out to take in a few sights and make the most of our time here.

First up was an impromptu visit to a local natural Museum, filled with countless skeletons of what seemed like every mammal and bird from Chile.
It was remarkable and the highlight was a massive whale skeleton.

Up next we visited a ship museum with replicas of the Nao Victoria (Magellan’s ship), the HMS Beagle (Darwin’s) and the James Caird (Shackleton’s life raft) that he sailed to South Georgia island on.

It was a beautiful day and the crew throughly enjoyed spending time together once again. We’ve just wrapped up a wonderful dinner and celebrated a team members birthday!

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the 8 amigos!

“The wind you really got to dread is the one that howls inside your head…” -Muni, but perhaps adapted from somewhere else.

Hello hi there,

Today we climbed again to Camp 3 — Colera — at 19,600 feet.

Another windy, cold day. At this point it almost feels… expected. Normal, even. We wake up, we zip the tents carefully so they don’t become kites, we layer up, we check each other’s hoods and buckles, and we move.

We are dialed now. Dialed with our breaks. Dialed with our systems. Dialed with how to open a snack without sending it to Chile. We don’t rush. We don’t waste energy. We just keep taking the next step.

The stretch from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is one of my favorites on this mountain. Aconcagua reigning to our left — massive and unmoved. The Andes rolling out to our right in layers of red, gold, and shadow. Brutal and beautiful, side by side, as they so often are up here.

Colera is a stark place. The wind doesn’t whisper here — it announces itself. This is where the normal route meets the false Polish Traverse (the route we took up), the lines of climbers converging under the same summit skyline. The camp is tucked into large white rocks that jut upward like a jagged crown. We nestle ourselves into their protection as best we can.

Life at nearly 20,000 feet is not casual. Every movement costs something. Simple tasks feel consequential. But the team is steady. Eating. Drinking. Checking in. Doing the small things well.

Tonight we crawled into our tents early to let our bodies rest. Tomorrow is a big question mark. We’ve done everything we can to put ourselves in position.

Now we wait to see what the mountain says.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Aconcagua team

The team absolutely styled Cotopaxi this morning, or more accurately, last night. Midnight departures are more or less the standard here in Ecuador, as the hut staff typically provides hot water for coffee and tea and bread rolls with butter and jam at 11 pm. We started out on a winding sandy trail above the refugio that quickly turned to firm crunchy snow, and were soon traversing the lower slopes of the glacier.

A brief but intense rain storm rolled through yesterday afternoon not long after we had arrived at the hut, so we approached the steeper upper mountain with caution due to some uncertainty around how much snow had fallen up there and how the resulting avalanche conditions might manifest. The tropical high-alpine snowpack on these peaks can behave in strange ways and is often unlike anything we'd typically encounter in the mountains back home. But this time around Dustin and I were pleasantly surprised to find an unreactive interface and minimal slab formation from the previous day's weather. The few inches that had fallen did however make for excellent climbing conditions, allowing us to move through the steep and exposed switchbacks below the summit confidently and efficiently.

Perhaps the only detracting factor of the climb was our few moments on the summit itself, which were kept rather brief due to lots of nasty smelling sulfuric gas, and lacked the iconic views of Cotopaxi's massive crater which was largely obscured by clouds. Once on the descent however the team continued to crush it, and we were back at the Refugio Jose Rivas before 8 am! This meant we've had most of the day to catch up on sleep, food and hydration at Hacienda La Cienega. Tomorrow we'll head to Chimborazo Lodge and start preparing for our last big objective! 

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo

PS- I failed to take a single blog-worthy photo today, but I think Dustin has a few decent ones. I'll ask him to send them when he wakes up from his nap. 

That’s a wrap. We are back at the hotel in Puerto Natales, having completed the full O Circuit with our cups full both figuratively and literally. What an incredible adventure, made even better by a truly great group of people who now feel like old friends.

We woke up this morning to the same strong winds that ushered us into the park at the start of the trip. This time, though, they felt easy to shrug off. A hot shower and a real bed were waiting, which has a way of putting everything in perspective. As we made our way back, we couldn’t help but gawk at the towering mountains and hanging glaciers welcoming us into this beautiful corner of Patagonia, all while reflecting on just how far we had traveled to arrive right back where we began.

The weather on this trip was the best I’ve ever had out here, and that good fortune belonged entirely to this team. From start to finish, it felt like everything lined up just right. Now the only luck we need is choosing which wine to taste next.

This is the Torres trek signing off. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

We are settled in at the Refugio Jose Rivas on Cotopaxi. It is an exceptionally beautiful evening above the valley cloud cover with the sun setting on the mountain.

A couple of nights of good sleep have done everyone well and we are as ready to climb as we can be. The team is hopping into bed right now in anticipation of another alpine start.

RMI Guide Dustin & Team

Another day high in the Andes! We were able to carry and cache loads at 19,600 feet at Camp 3 - Colera.

We bundled up, did a little dance to our favorite hype song and took off into the wind.

Mostly clear skies and beautiful views greeted us as we slowly ascended to Camp 3. We cached our gear and stayed at that altitude for more than an hour before we began the quick descent back to Camp 2.

We’re now in the best possible position we can be for our summit attempt and are monitoring all the forecasts to find a window.

We’ve spent the afternoon resting, recovering and greeting more teams as they arrive at Camp 2.

On the menu for tonight’s dinner is steak, mashed potatoes and of course, soup! Soup is the king of expeditions. Warm and hydrating — what more could you want.

Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Jess and the Aconcagua team

Rain? What the heck is this? Yesterday was supposed to be our rainy day, yet we woke to a beautiful sunrise followed by, somehow, more rain. Begrudgingly, we pulled on rain jackets, pack covers, and zipped every zipper we had. Right on cue, the rain stopped and the sun came out. Of course it did.

The hike from Paine Grande is incredible. As the trail unfolds, you start catching glimpses into the French Valley, where massive cliffs rise straight out of the landscape and hanging glaciers loom quietly above. Every so often, the view pulls your attention the other way, toward the unreal light blue water of the lake below. It feels almost distracting in the best possible way, a constant reminder of just how special this place is and how fortunate we have been with the weather.

We continued up the French Valley to the first lookout, lingering as icefalls calved off the glaciers with deep, echoing crashes. Condors drifted overhead, six of them by our count, likely drawn in by our collective aroma more than the scenery. It is hard to imagine a better place to sit, eat a sandwich, and take it all in.

From there, we descended and followed the shoreline of Lago Nordenskjöld, an extremely Chilean sounding lake, until reaching our final camp of the journey at Cuernos. A lakeside refugio with unforgettable views and even better company.

This trip has officially been the best weather I have ever had. We are lucky, no doubt about it, and tomorrow we are looking forward to real beds in Puerto Natales.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

Hola,

Well, the forecast came true. We hunkered down at Camp 2 today and endured big winds. As I speak, the mountain is hidden in a cloud and light snow is falling.

Lots of teams moving in to Camp 2 and carrying loads so even though the weather was tough, there’s lots of activity up at 18,000 feet.

Tonight, we’re staying warm with bowls of ramen and an early bedtime. We’re hopeful to carry a load of gear to Camp 3 tomorrow but let’s see what the mountain says when we wake up.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Aconcagua team

What was a big day yesterday turned into a restful night. The wind returned and the rained showed up, but we didn't mind. We were in our tents on the right side of John Gardner Pass. 

We began the day by heading down to the lake for a catamaran across the lake to the toe of the glacier. We donned helmets and crampons and were able to experience the views of yesterday first hand. Water bottles were filled by the flowing streams of fresh glacial water and we were able to see carved arches as holes in the ice. Amazing. 

That just meant a late day on the trail, but it's an easier day today with one big uphill and one big downhill. With the rain at our backs we were extra motivated to get to the warm Refugio for some wine and banter. Paine Grande, our Refugio tonight, is the biggest on the circuit and certainly stunning. Time to rest up for our day tomorrow. 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

Hello!

Today we had our best weather day yet. Oh my goodness, was it needed. A reprieve. None of us slept much last night because the wind was relentless but just as the sun came over the horizon it began to soften. As we were cooking breakfast both Leandro and I went outside just to look to see if it really had dissipated. It had! Happy dance. Happy dance.

So we packed up camp calmly and we put on our backpacks and we began the move to Camp 2. It was so pleasant, the views remarkable. Mountains beyond mountains. Everyone moved well, steady. It felt good to climb in silence and sunshine.

We had a wonderful afternoon at Camp 2 and ate chicken burritos for dinner. The whole team had seconds which may mean nothing to you at home but to me that means everyone is doing so well here at 18,000ft and appetites are staying strong.

We expect high winds tonight and into tomorrow but you just never know. Time will tell. No matter what, we feel stoked to have made it to Camp 2.    

And with that, goodnight! 

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Aconcagua team.

P.S. don’t be alarmed if you aren’t hearing from your loved one all of a sudden - no wifi here at Camp 2 for the moment. All is well.