Posts for Expedition Dispatches

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Arrive at Their Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

Greetings from the Ishinca Valley! We’re writing from our base camp, at 14,400ft, right at the foothills of our first two objectives; Nevados Ishinca and Urus. We left our hotel this morning in Huaraz, and an uneventful bus ride took us to the sunny village of Pashpa, where we met our pack of donkeys and their gentle drivers. Four hours of hiking through a forest of quenuales (the Andean staple tree) took us to the open meadow where camp sits. Everyone hiked in pretty good style! Our first day of training starts tomorrow, and everyone is looking forward to move further uphill soon!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The Peru Seminar team before leaving Huaraz. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Mt. Rainier: Climbing Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Pete Van Deventer | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning under clear skies, with warm temperatures and a light breeze.  The teams enjoyed some time on the summit before starting their descent from the crater rim just after 7 am PST. 

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens made a sunset climb last night and reached the crater with 100% of their team.

All three teams will descend to Paradise today and return to Ashford to conclude their programs.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

4

Congrats, Chuck and all the climbers!

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Posted by: Ross on 7/1/2015 at 3:09 pm

Way to go, Chuck! Picture perfect! Excited to hear all about it. :)

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Posted by: Cathy on 7/1/2015 at 2:57 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Weather Day at 17,200’ Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Tuesday June 30th 6:00 pm PT

Hey there, this is Billy checking in from 17,000 feet on Denali. We woke up this morning and actually almost pull the trigger.  The weather was looking really good. But then things kind of soured a little bit. Thin clouds with intermittent snow, and so we eventually pulled the plug on our summit attempt before we really got it going. We’re having a weather day today. We are hoping for better weather tomorrow. That’s all for now. Bye.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

RMI Camp at 17,200' on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann


RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls in from 17,200ft on Mount McKinley.

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3

Pick your moment team, wait and be great!!

Doug - I bid you fair winds and a following sea. My thoughts are with you as you wait to make your… read more

Posted by: Belladonna on 7/1/2015 at 12:46 pm

Looking good Pat Grengs! Please bring back some cool weather…we’re roasting here! Happy Trails! Leo & Linda

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Posted by: Linda & Leo on 7/1/2015 at 8:49 am


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Enjoy Fresh Snow and a Rest Day

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

June 30, 2015 5:46pm PST

Today’s wake-up call was a quiet and windless fall of about six inches of light powder snow. It was our planned rest day, after five busy days getting on and up the approaches to Denali, so there wasn’t any early morning angst as to whether the snow would keep us from our goals for the day.  Today, those goals included a breakfast of bagels and smoked salmon in the POSH tent and a session of digging out camp as the snow continued to fall. We eventually climbed back in the tents for naps and reading.  A few teams came down the mountain today, resting near our camp as they prepared to march on toward the airstrip in the snowstorm. We’ll hope to move uphill tomorrow and we’ll be ready for that, but of course we’ll pay attention to the weather and see what it allows. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team

Fresh Snow at 11,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection

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4

Greetings from Montana. Cheering for team Hahn.  Admiration for the team members as I am relaxing on my porch. Stay smart and enjoy the adventure. Sending extra love and wishes… read more

Posted by: "Mom" to JM on 7/1/2015 at 1:31 pm

MISSING MY DAILY PHONE CALLS WITH MY BROTHER.  HOW’S MY THERAPIST DOING?

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Posted by: KAREN on 7/1/2015 at 5:33 am


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Cache Gear at 13,500’

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Monday June 29th 10:20 pm PT

We had a short break from the cloud and snow this morning.  When we got out of the tents, there were actually views to be had in most directions and blue skies above.  Being at 11,000 ft, it was slightly colder than what we’ve experienced so far, but a hot breakfast took care of the chills and got us ready for our carry.  We set out for “Motorcycle Hill” at 9:30.  It was good to be in crampons and carrying ice axes after days of snowshoes and ski poles. An hour put us in the middle of “Squirrel Hill” with great views of Denali’s Northwest Buttress and the Peter’s Glacier.  It began to cloud up as we reached the “Polo Field” off the end of the giant granite towers of the West Buttress.  By Windy Corner we were in light snow, but close to our destination. We dug a deep and raven-proof pit in the snow at 13,500 ft in which to cache the food and fuel we were carrying.  It was an easy climb down with light packs and we walked out of the snow showers and into sunny and warm camp at 11K again by 4:30 PM.  We’ll hope for a comfortable night of sleep tonight as we’ve followed the “climb high, sleep low” rule of acclimatization to altitude.  Tomorrow will be a rest day, as part of that same plan. 

Kryz wishes his dad a happy birthday from Mount McKinley

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

An RMI team on Squirrel Hill, Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Brent Okita

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2

Go Rhonda!!! Looks like fun. keep up the good work, you and the team are truly an inspiration.
Sue Mamer

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Posted by: Sue Mamer on 6/30/2015 at 9:39 am

All is well in CT! Enjoy the rest day!

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Posted by: Sharon on 6/30/2015 at 8:58 am


Peru Seminar: Team Acclimates on Hills Surrounding Huaraz

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | June 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 11,500'

Greetings all,

Today was one of those beautiful bluebird days in Huaraz where the views of the surrounding 20,000ft peaks are especially stunning. Our team took advantage of the perfect weather and made an acclimatization hike up into the hills above our hotel, to about 11,500’, in preparation of our move to 14,000’ base camp in the Ishinca Valley tomorrow. Views from the top gave us a great birds eye view of the city of Huaraz and the surrounding peaks. After the hike, we treated ourselves to a pizza lunch at El Horno, a local favorite located near the Casa de Guias, in the climbing center of Huaraz. After a packing session and a casual dinner, we’re prepped and ready for our move into the Ishinca Valley first thing tomorrow.

Thanks for following and we’ll be in touch from base camp tomorrow!

Best,

RMI Guides Robby Young, Elias de Andres Martos, and Team

The Peru Seminar team from the hills above Huaraz. Photo: Robby Young Huaraz, Peru, as seen from the RMI team's acclimating hike. Photo: Robby Young

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Walter Hailes | June 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Walter Hailes led their Four Day Summit Climb Teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Both teams began their descent from the crater rim shortly after 7 am.  Seth reported clear skies, very little wind and warm temperatures.  Climbers will return to Camp Muir to rest and repack before continuing their descent down the Muir Snowfield and to Paradise later this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climbs team!

3

Congrats team, and dad, such a difficult task. Have a safe decent.

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Posted by: Ryan Brown on 7/1/2015 at 10:07 am

Congrats dad on making it to the top! I’m glad you got to use all those skills I taught you. Get home safe!
Adam

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Posted by: Adam Brown on 7/1/2015 at 6:22 am


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 17,000’

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

June 29, 2015 5:20 pm PST

Hey there, it’s Billy checking in from Camp 5 on Denali at over 17,000 ft.  Our crew made the move today.  We got up super early this morning and made great time moving up the West Buttress. We’re settled in now at High Camp.  We spent some time, improving one of the campsites and building some walls.  And now everybody’s snug up in their sleeping bag hanging out in their tents. We’re sort of chilling and filling with food and water. We are hoping for a good patch of weather in the next few days so we can maybe take a crack at the summit. Yeah, that’s all for now. Everyone is psyched and doing extremely well.  We will check in again tomorrow and let you know what happens.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Climbers on the ridge en route to Camp 5 at 17,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.


RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls in from Camp 5 on Denali.

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11

Hope you summited today. You’ve been in my thoughts all day

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Posted by: Stacey on 6/30/2015 at 11:39 am

Incredible progress - keep it up!!!  Hopefully the “Jim jokes” (ask him to tell you the joke about the bell ringer) aren’t ruining everyone’s time up there.  Looking forward to… read more

Posted by: Jessica LaTorre on 6/30/2015 at 11:10 am


Peru Seminar: Elias, Robby and the Team Arrive in Huaraz

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

Greetings from Huaraz!

We have arrived to the Andean capital of climbing after our standard eight-hour bus ride from Lima. Everyone is doing great and growing in excitement to get into the range soon. The highlight of the day was to see the Cordillera Blanca as clear as it could be from about two hours out, on a strategic bus stop; a few gasps of amazement were audible.
Tomorrow we’ll start our acclimatization process with a morning hike on the surrounding hills, to be continued by a packing session before hitting the trails for good the next morning.

That’s it for now from Huaraz,

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

RMI Guides Elias & Robby arrive at the Lima Airport. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Huaraz City in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Settled into 11K Camp for an Extended Stay

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday June 28th 10:22 pm PT

Once again, the weather was a little sloppy in the early hours, so we didn’t get out of the tents until the civilized hour of 7AM.  It was still pretty well socked in at 9,500 ft as we ate breakfast, but things seemed workable for moving up.  We were on the go by 10:00 and in our new camp at 11,000 ft by 1PM.  The clouds cleared from time to time, giving us some great views of the end of the West Buttress.  Luckily, clouds hung in there enough to keep the sun off the final steeper hills into camp.  We dug in and got settled in our new home.  It is a relief, after building four camps in four days, to know that we’ll get to stay in this one for a few days.  The afternoon and evening were spent resting and sorting food and gear.  If possible, we’ll do a carry to 13,500 ft tomorrow.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Moving to 11,000' Camp on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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2

It sure is refreshing to think of snow in the heat and humidity of DC.  If you get chilly along the way just think of us to warm up.  What… read more

Posted by: Charlie Thomas on 6/30/2015 at 6:14 am

Kenny Cornett-  good luck!  Get to the top and be safe!  Love ya- Rhonda, John, Meriden, and Morgan

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Posted by: Rhonda roberts on 6/29/2015 at 7:31 pm


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Recent Images From Expedition Dispatches

  • The Peru Seminar team before leaving Huaraz. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • RMI Camp at 17,200' on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Fresh Snow at 11,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI team on Squirrel Hill, Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Peru Seminar team from the hills above Huaraz. Photo: Robby Young
  • Huaraz, Peru, as seen from the RMI team's acclimating hike. Photo: Robby Young
  • Climbers on the ridge en route to Camp 5 at 17,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.
  • RMI Guides Elias & Robby arrive at the Lima Airport. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Huaraz City in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Moving to 11,000' Camp on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The RMI Dining tent at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • The RMI El Siete team on the summit of Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Mike Haugen
  • Climbers ascending the fixed lines on Mt. McKinley en route to High Camp.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Climbers pulling sleds up Mt. McKinleys Ski Hill to 9.500 ft Camp.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Cotopaxi as seen from the Jose Ribas Refugio. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Seminar team with Cotopaxi in the background. Photo: Mike Walter
  • An RMI climber ascending the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, WA. Photo: Eric Frank
  • Tents covered in snow at McKinley Base Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Pulling sleds up Ski Hill on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Jose Ribas Refugio on Cotopaxi, Ecuador. Photo: RMI Collection
  • A stormy day at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley, AK for an RMI Team. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Traversing off Disappointment Cleaver on Mount Rainier. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Ecuador Seminar enjoys a rainbow seen from Illiniza Norte, Ecuador, acclimating climb. Photo: Mike Walter