Posts for Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: May 17th Summit

Posted by: Ben Liken, Brent Okita | May 17, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four and Five Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  Brent reported clear skies, nice weather and great route conditions.  The teams were able to spend so time on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to today’s teams!

The May 17th RMI Team ascending the Emmons Shoulder at 13,000 ft en route to the summit.  Photo: Zeb Blais The RMI Four Day Summit Climb Team on the summit of Mt. Rainier May 17th.  Photo: Brent Okita

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 11,200’ Due to Wind

Posted by: Billy Haas, Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 16, 2016, 5:26 pm PT

Winds overnight at our 11,200’ camp were quite formidable, but our camp survived well due to our team’s hard work in building walls in the previous days.
By this morning, the winds abated somewhat at camp, so we rose early and fired stoves. We were hoping that we would be able to climb to Windy Corner at 13,600’ to place a cache of supplies for up higher. Unfortunately, it wasn’t our day and the winds continued through most of the day.
Instead we spent the morning adding more snow blocks to our camp for further wind protection. Everyone is doing well and in good spirits. We’ll try again tomorrow to get our cache up high. That’s all for now.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Fly on and Set Up Camp

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,600'

May 16, 2015 1:09 am PT

Hi all,

While yesterday became a waiting game that ultimately left us sleeping in town for another night, this morning was sunny and blue, and immediately after breakfast, we loaded the planes and were off! The flight in was spectacular with great views of the range. After a couple hours of sorting loads, packing, and rigging, we walked out of base camp and on to the lower Kahiltna. We made great time, and now we are snugly tucked into camp after an eventful day. Time to catch some Zzzz. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Josh Maggard, Robby Young, and team

On The Map

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb Big Arapiles

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 16th 2:06 am PT

Good morning from Little Switzerland. We had an awesome day yesterday!!! We woke up to marginal weather and spent the morning mastering lead climbing techniques and tricks at the belay. As things stabilized, we broke again into groups and climbers took the lead and responsibility to guide us to Big Arapiles, both up and down; It was an incredible outing and Vanessa, Tyler, Kyle, John and Paul made us proud.

Our plan today may change, as we are receiving a ton of snow. We’ll check back in later and let you know.

Standing by from the Pika Glacier,
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand, and team

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos ascends Big Arapiles in Little Switzerland, Alaska. Photo: Bridget Schletty RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos looks across the Pika Glacier towards the Trolls, from the summit of Big Arapiles. Photo: Bridget Schletty

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Mt. Rainier: May 16th Summit

Posted by: Casey Grom, Chase Nelson, Andrew Kiefer, Stoney Molina | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the entire Four Day Summit Climb team stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! Casey reported chilly temperatures but light wind and lots of sunshine on the summit. The team is beginning their descent back to Camp Muir where they will refuel and pack up before continuing on to Paradise. We look forward to greeting the team in Ashford this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

An RMI team ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Take Another Rest Day Due to Winds

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 15th 2:30 pm PT

Overnight winds here at the 11k Camp were strong, but subsided a bit by morning. We woke early and fired stoves for a much anticipated cup of coffee…followed by a breakfast of smoked salmon, cream cheese, and bagels (it’s not all about suffering up here).
Our team was ready, but the winds up above Motorcycle Hill and around Windy Corner, where we intend to place our cache, never subsided to levels that we were comfortable with.
We ended up taking another rest day here at 11k, which is always a good thing. Hopefully we’ll be able to make our cache tomorrow. We’ll keep you posted.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and the team

An RMI team's 11K Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection

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Alaska Seminar: Leon Davis & Team Ready to Go

Posted by: Leon Davis, Lindsay Fixmer, Bridget Belliveau | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Good morning friends and family!

The Alaska Seminar team here in Talkeetna is getting things done in great style. Weather is looking better with each passing hour and everyone did a fantastic job with rigging their gear. Here it is noon and we are just about ready to fly!  So the team is gonna grab a last meal in town and our next communique will be from base camp! 

Have a lovely day everyone,
RMI Guide Leon Davis

The May 14th Alaska Seminar team poses for a photo while taking a break from packing. Photo: Leon Davis

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Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team Kahiltna Bound!

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Yesterday we spent the whole day on hold here in Talkeetna. Today is a new day. This morning’s skies are clear and we’re loading up to go! We are off to climb Mount McKinley!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

The May 12th McKinley Expedition boarding the plane bound for Kahiltna Base! Photo: Pete Van Deventer

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Mt. Rainier: May 15th Update

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Mike King | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Five Day Summit Climbs, led by Tyler Jones and Mike King, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! At 9:30 am PT, the team began their descent from the crater rim. Tyler reported no wind, sunny skies, and warm temperatures with a cloud deck around 7,000’.

Congratulations to RMI’s first summit teams of 2015!

An RMI team ascending Mount Rainier just after daybreak. Photo: JJ Justman

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Plan for Next Climb Objective

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 15th 1:30 am PT

Good evening from Pika Glacier camp. We are writing from the relative comfort of our posh tent, after a day of on and off fog, wind and snow. We’re all in great spirits and hoping for the weather to clear to focus on our next objective. Enjoy a couple pictures of today’s view from home. That’s it for today!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The Alaska Alpine Seminar Pika Glacier Camp. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Pika Glacier Camp and surrounding Denali National Park peaks. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Recent Images From Expedition Dispatches

  • An RMI team fortifies snow walls for protection from the wind at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending Motorcycle Hill with 11k Camp of Mt. McKinley, AK in the background. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending the fixed lines outside of 14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The May 19th McKinley team preparing for the climb in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • The May 19th McKinley team ready to fly in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Rob Lindner
  • An RMI Alaska Seminar Team navigating the glacier.  Photo: Kel Rossiter
  • Prayer flags fly at Everest Base Camp with Pumori summit behind.  Photo: Jeff Martin
  • Camp at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The view from Kahiltna Base Camp.  Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The RMI Posh tent set up at 14,000 ft Camp.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Climbing Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • The Summit Ridge of Radio Tower. RMI Photo Collection
  • View from Ski Hill on Mt. McKinley.  RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. RMI Photo Collection
  • The May 17th RMI Team ascending the Emmons Shoulder at 13,000 ft en route to the summit.  Photo: Zeb Blais
  • The RMI Four Day Summit Climb Team on the summit of Mt. Rainier May 17th.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos ascends Big Arapiles in Little Switzerland, Alaska. Photo: Bridget Schletty
  • RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos looks across the Pika Glacier towards the Trolls, from the summit of Big Arapiles. Photo: Bridget Schletty
  • An RMI team ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • An RMI team's 11K Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The May 14th Alaska Seminar team poses for a photo while taking a break from packing. Photo: Leon Davis