Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Everest: The Team is Amidst the Waiting Game

May 9, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

We're squarely in the middle of the waiting game here at Everest Basecamp. The big teams have assembled a few strong guys who are working on fixing the ropes to the summit today and tomorrow. Once those are in then it's all a matter of time until we get a good weather window for the summit bid. As for us we're healing up and feeling rested for the push for the top. We're giving the weather forecast more and more scrutiny every day and the tick marks on the calendar are starting to add up. It shouldn't be too much longer now. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Gearing Up in Talkeetna

May 9, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Ben Liken

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 346'

Yesterday was spent at K2 Aviation's hangar, putting the finishing touches on our packing and preparing. The weather is beautiful herein Talkeetna, and we fully expect to be able to fly into the Alaska Range today. Hopefully the next time we touch base will be from the Kahiltna Glacier. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mike…Wish I were with you there as planned yet so grateful I get to return to Rainier in four weeks aiming this time to get these boots and this bootie on top…Thx for all your support last Sept - Health now A+...Godspeed for best expedition ever…Walter (Sorries if message redudant…system seemed to kick first one out)

Posted by: waltero glover on 5/10/2013 at 10:37 am

Hey Eric,

Gerald here from Rainier last June.Good luck hope to see you on the Mt. I am Climbing with Brent leaving the 22nd…

Posted by: Gerald Flynn on 5/10/2013 at 8:32 am

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Marin & Team Attempt the Summit of Mt. Francis

May 8, 2013

Posted by: Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Our attempt on Mt. Francis was great. We were making good time up the southeast ridge until conditions got really icy. We climbed a pitch of ice and then we made a group decision of turning back down. The views, as well as the learning experience, were incredible. Now we are all back in camp enjoying a hot cup of tea. Today we did our last seminar review and will be starting to pack for tomorrow's flight back to Talkeetna. Looking forward to a shower and a big salad. RMI Guide Andres Marin

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Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team to the South Col

May 8, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

An easy day for the climbing team at Basecamp... Those without coughs went on big hikes, those with coughs went on lesser walks. By contrast, our Sherpa team went for a much more significant and ambitious journey. Tshering, Gylgen and Kaji carried loads from ABC all the way to the South Col, establishing high camp at close to 26,000 ft. They then returned to ABC, and now, in late afternoon, along with Lam Babu and Yubaraj, they are descending to Basecamp. That is what we call a big day in the Himalaya. Unfortunately, there is a somber feeling once again around the mountain. Another tragic fall occurred yesterday, killing a climber on the Lhotse Face. It isn't our place to divulge details and I don't wish to try to sensationalize Everest climbing by exploiting such sadness, but I'll mention the incident in order to give proper credit to those who worked hard to make a bad situation better. Lam Babu was one of those who rushed up to the scene to render aid and who helped with the difficult job of retrieving the victim's body which they then transported to ABC. Today, a helicopter pilot finished the job with another daring high altitude retrieval from 21,300 ft... making what was once phenomenal seem sadly routine, but in the process saving many climbers from the very difficult and dangerous task of carrying the victim down through the Khumbu Icefall. Tonight, our entire team will be together and safe in Basecamp. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Dan -
We’re following youur team’s accomplishments and thinking of you every day. All the best for great success these next few weeks.

Posted by: Bill & Suellen on 5/9/2013 at 10:46 am

Dan. Please be well and be safe. Thinking of you. Lots of Love, Lauralea

Posted by: Lauralea on 5/9/2013 at 10:29 am

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Mt. McKinley: Mike Walter & Team Begin Their Journey in Alaska

May 7, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Ben Liken

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Welcome to the start of RMI's Denali climbing season! All of the team members have arrived in Anchorage, and we're on our way to the small town of Talkeetna. Talkeetna is the main access point for climbers heading into the Alaska Range. We'll start the day tomorrow with breakfast at the historic Talkeetna Roadhouse, and then spend the bulk of the day packing equipment for our expedition. We'll also check in with the National Park Service and go through their informative orientation slide show. That's it for now. We'll keep you posted with another update tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Walter & team

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Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team Sets up Camp 3, South Col Carry is Next

May 7, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Today our Sherpa team secured prime real estate at Camp 3. The super Sherpa chopped away ice for a nice flat platform and supplied, but did not set up the tent. It is best to wait till the day the team is ready to use the tent; otherwise, the elements may damage or blow the unoccupied tent away. Sherpa plan to carry loads to the South Col tomorrow; these guys are tough. The climbing team is getting some exercise around Basecamp by day hiking, golfing, and playing horseshoes. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck on your summit push. Your Sherpas and your entire team are heroes, very brave. Blessings for a safe summit.

ABQ Uptown #985 NM/AZ/CO

Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/7/2013 at 3:49 pm

Good luck to your team. Hoping you can summit.

Posted by: Kevin on 5/7/2013 at 10:16 am

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: The Team Puts Their Skills to the Test

May 7, 2013

Posted by: Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Today we put what we've learned the last few days into action. We headed to a crevasse and practiced our rescue techniques using the complete system. Going down in the crevasse was an incredible experience for everyone. It was written all over the team's faces in the great photos and big smiles that made this day just fantastic. We are going to bed early and hoping for good weather for our summit attempt to the East ridge of Mt. Francis. Wish us luck. All best, RMI Guide Andres Marin

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Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team Left BC to Begin Establishing Camp 3

May 6, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Lam Babu and our all-star Sherpa team were walking out of Basecamp by 4 this morning, bound for Advanced Basecamp (ABC). Their plan is to use the days ahead to establish Camp III on the Lhotse Face and to begin carries to the South Col. It is a good plan and works well with the climbing team intention to head up for a last "practice" rotation on the hill, sleeping as high as Camp III. We were going for that last difficult push starting tomorrow, but have now reconsidered. A cough has taken precedence, as coughs sometimes do in the month of May on Mount Everest. We've worked with this particular cough for weeks already and have no fondness for it. The judgement call has come down to: sleep at 24,000 ft, gaining valuable experience in a tough environment while coming down in time for a last rest before the summit bid... Or get healthy and banish the cough before trying for the top. Get Healthy won out. We'll stay down while the Sherpa team is up this time (they'll be back to BC in a few days). We'll put a priority on getting the climbing team strong and we'll contend with a longer-than-expected rest while carefully examining weather reports... On the lookout for a suitable "window" between the Jetstream and the Monsoon. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Dan,

Get healthy!!

I am still with you guys in spirit!

James

Posted by: James Fitch on 5/6/2013 at 7:06 pm

Get healthy and strong. I’ll be watching as you ascend to Camp III. Much luck with your overnight stay there.

Posted by: Terri Kinney on 5/6/2013 at 2:01 pm

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: The Team Summits Radio Tower!

May 6, 2013

Posted by: Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

This place just keeps getting better and better. Today we climbed Radio Tower!!! The weather was incredible and the views just fantastic. We climbed this peak via the southside and gained the east ridge to the top. The entire group had the chance to learn a lot and had a great time while climbing our first summit. After a long day we are eating dinner and planning a day of ice climbing and crevasse rescue that we have in front of us. All best, RMI Guide Andres Marin and the Alaska Alpine Seminar

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great to read the weather is great and the team is learning great skills! From Vermont, with much love.

Posted by: Alysse on 5/7/2013 at 5:00 am

¡Feliz aventuras! Disfrutalo mucho! Un abrazo fuerte.

Posted by: Anita on 5/6/2013 at 9:40 pm

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Mt. Everest: Preparations Underway for Last Rotation

May 5, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Cinco de Mayo and we are here with some nachos. No Margaritas, that will be later. Perfect weather, another beautiful day. Lots of prep work for the upcoming rotation. We took out the oxygen masks and regulators. They may use them if a night at Camp 3 becomes available. So important to double check the equipment before sending it up the hill. Our whole Sherpa team will start out early in the AM for Camp 2 and stay up there until Camp 3 is built and loads are in place at Camp 4. The Sherpa team is such a great group of men, we cannot thank them enough for all their help. The climbing team will rest one more day, then head up for the final rotation before the summit push. Dave and Seth have been doing fine work of all the details, what a couple of super guides we have leading this Expedition. A big shout out to Karla, Happy B-Day! Mt. Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello Dave : We meet at base camp about 3 wks ago. I was on a 3wk trekking & climbing trip. It was the adventure of a life time . I had many high lights of the trip , right at the top was getting to meet you and talk a little about mountaineering. I’m thankful for the time you spent with me . Good luck on the climb with your team , be safe & may God bless you and your team !!! Now go get #15. Grant

Posted by: Grant phelps on 5/8/2013 at 7:38 am

Collaborative efforts from all team members and Sherpas can only mean success!!!! The best of luck to all of you on the summit push. Looking forward to pictures of your successful ascent. Blessings your way.

ABQ Uptown #985 NM/CO/AZ

Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/6/2013 at 7:24 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Everest: The Team is Amidst the Waiting Game

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Gearing Up in Talkeetna

On The Map

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Marin & Team Attempt the Summit of Mt. Francis

On The Map

Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team to the South Col

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Mike Walter & Team Begin Their Journey in Alaska

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Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team Sets up Camp 3, South Col Carry is Next

On The Map

Alaska Alpine Seminar: The Team Puts Their Skills to the Test

On The Map

Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team Left BC to Begin Establishing Camp 3

Alaska Alpine Seminar: The Team Summits Radio Tower!

Mt. Everest: Preparations Underway for Last Rotation

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