Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Brent Okita and the Four Day Summit Climb made the summit this morning with clear skies and 20 mph winds. With such beautiful weather, the team reached the summit early and were already back to the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,200') at 7:40 a.m.
Congratulations!
The American Lung Association - Climb for Clean Air led by Win Whittaker and JJ Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team was greeted with crisp clear skies and calm winds.
Congratulations to today's teams!
The American Lung Association - Climb for Clean Air led by Jake Beren and our Four Day Summit Climb led by Andres Marin made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams had cool temperatures with wind gusts from 35 – 40 mph. As the teams started their descent to Camp Muir winds started to calm and conditions were quite nice.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Our Four Day Summit Climb Team led by Casey Grom, and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Paradise reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. A cap covered the top of the mountain today making visibility low with wind gusts of 30 – 35mph. The teams started their descent back to Camp Muir at 7:26am PST.
Congratulations Teams!
The Four Day Summit Climb July 17 - 20 led by Mike Haugen and Leon Davis checked in at 7:40 a.m. as they were just reaching the crater rim of Mt. Rainier. The teams reported light winds and clear skies. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise later this afternoon.
The Five Day Emmons Glacier Climb July 17 - 21 led by Mike Walter also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Yesterday morning at 1 AM there were unfamiliar voices outside our tents at 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier. Someone was calling my name and so I poked my head out into the gloom and falling snow. I was a little surprised to see several of the guides from the teams we'd assumed were still up high on the mountain. The guides pointed to their combined teams taking a restbreak a few hundred feet away and in the poor light I could make out about 40 climbers. They were making a break for the airstrip and they wanted to know if I'd join in with my team. I looked down-glacier through the snow and murk to see... not a whole lot actually, but I quickly warmed to the idea of joining what would be a very strong effort in the route-finding and crevasse detection department. The other teams very graciously waited the hour-and-a-half that it took for us to fire our stoves, eat breakfast and break camp. And then, just as we were roping up, the super team got their packs on and other guides began the process of breaking trail and finding a way. This was a very sweet deal for our team as we merely hopped in at the back of the line and followed along, neatly sidestepping any holes that those near the front of the column had discovered the hard way. I'd somehow assumed that they'd woken me because they wanted me to find the way, but that wasn't the case at all and several very capable guides took turns themselves over the next six hours of working through cloud and murk and snow. It was quite a procession as fifty climbers on about 14 different ropes wound their way down the glacier. These numbers represented every climber left on the mountain... It would be a clean sweep to end the season. My own team's spirits were lightened considerably as we learned that none of the other climbers had summited either and that in fact the storms we'd largely avoided by dropping lower on the mountain were indeed big and mean and real on the upper mountain. Most of all though, my climbers were just happy to be climbing again after two long days sitting around waiting for conditions to improve. By the time we reached basecamp... Or more correctly, the place where Basecamp had been (since there was now nothing but an empty and beautiful glacier) the weather was getting better and some blue sky was developing. We built our tents though and tried not to get our hopes up for an immediate flight. The super group of fifty had one mission in common remaining as we all got out with our snowshoes on to stomp down a strip of snow to give planes an easier takeoff. Sure enough, we'd barely begun to nap when engines were heard and a mad scramble began. K2 Aviation had two big red DeHaviland Otters on skis in for us in no time at all and we were whisked off the glacier and back to Talkeetna by 5 PM. That left enough time for a quick gear sort and a long shower for each climber before dinner. Over burgers and salads at the West Rib, we had a blast toasting and laughing at ourselves and each other as we replayed the high and low points of a fine adventure in the mountains. The nightcap was at the Fairview Inn and then finally we were each in real beds again and sleeping in comfort and safety back in civilization.
Much thanks to guides Lindsay Mann and Geoff Schellens and Zeb Blais for their hard work and to the entire team for being such good sports. And of course thanks to Denali for keeping it all interesting.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Four Day Summit Climbs July 16 - 19 led by Seth Waterfall and Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning just after 7 a.m. PT. The teams reported high and low clouds with blue sky showing above and very little wind. They will enjoy some time on top today and then make their way back to Camp Muir and all the way down to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's summit climb teams!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Geoff Schellens, Lindsay Mann and Zeb Blais along with their great crew of climbers have now made the final walk down to the airstrip. Clouds around the mountain have prevented any planes from getting in today. However, the team is excited to be in position to load those planes as soon as the weather clears enough to fly.
We look forward to hearing from the team once they are back in Talkeetna (hopefully soon)!
Can’t wait to hear from you Wayne, Yippppppeeeeeeeeee, love Dinah and Sue
Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/18/2011 at 4:47 pm
This is Dave Hahn calling from 7,800’ on Mt. McKinley…still. We had another night of clouds and snow last night so we couldn't get our early start and walk out. Then the rest of the day was pretty much socked in and white as well. It is now 8:30 in the evening and it is snowing hard again.
So we're still sitting waiting for our chance to make a break for the air strip. It was a long day and a quiet day today. No airplanes were flying overhead it seemed like there was storm all around and at all levels. But we're doing alright. Everybody is fed and dry and in their sleeping bags now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Sending positive vibes for the weather to cooperate to make your decent to the airstrip. Will have longer to plan the homecoming celebrations. love Dinah and Sue
Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/18/2011 at 11:21 am
The Four Day Summit Climbs led by Brent Okita and Gabriel Barral were forced to turn the climbs today at approximately 11,800' due to gusty winds and poor visibility. The teams checked in from Camp Muir shortly after 7 a.m. and reported windy conditions. There is a cloud cap on the mountain this morning that has descended to the top of Disappointment Cleaver at approximately 12,300'.
The teams will be starting their descent from Camp Muir to Paradise later this morning.
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very nice pic!
Posted by: michelle on 7/20/2011 at 4:34 am
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