Hey RMI, this is Linden Mallory calling from high camp on Mt. McKinley, 17,200'. We just got back a little bit ago from our successful summit of Denali. We had a relatively easy descent, the winds picked up after we left the summit so it definitely got quite cold. We were bundled up in goggles and down jackets and neck gaiters and all that fun stuff, but the team did well. We motored back to camp and right now we are changing into dry socks and brewing up some hot drinks and dinner and crash out and get some rest. It's been a long day. Everybody's doing well. We had a great climb today. I'll try to get a written dispatch off tomorrow.
Our plan is to head downhill. Try to make it down to at least down to 14 Camp or possibly further depending on the conditions that present themselves. Hope everyone is doing well at home. The team is very excited. Tired but excited. And we'll check in tomorrow.
Take care,
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
High winds kept our teams off of the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team headed out early and reached an elevation of 11,600' but the winds were just too strong, so they returned safely to the shelter of Camp Muir. They will be leaving Camp Muir early and will be back down to Rainier Basecamp in the early afternoon.
This is Dave Hahn calling from 11,000' on Mt. McKinley. And we carried today. It was a beautiful day. Perfect weather, everything we could ask for. Very calm and clear, we could see forever. As we got up on the hills above 11K, we could look down onto the tundra of the North. And then when we were going around Windy Corner, we could see way down the Kahiltna Glacier. In fact we could see all the way to the southern end of the Alaska Range, which is rare.
We hope to move to 14,000' Camp tomorrow. Everybody's doing really well right now. It is all going great. It is clouding up a bit so we're hoping the good weather holds, but we're all pretty optimistic at the moment.
Bye for now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Pleased your weather has been holding. Great to move higher. Wayne, I am so very proud of your accomplishments. wonderful time down south. Back to paradise tomorrow. love U, dinah
Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from the summit of Mt. McKinley. It's about 6 PM here in Alaska July 7th. We got up to the top a few minutes ago. We just had a spectacular day of climbing. Crystal clear all day, clouds down below stretching way off to the North Slope of Alaska and to the south you can see all the way towards Talkeetna. You can’t see the ocean but other than that it's absolutely gorgeous. And to top it all off there is a half moon hanging above the summit.
The team is doing great, we made good time and climbed well. We are celebrating right now, taking some photos. We are going to pack up and head down in a few moments get back to high camp. We will check in once we get down there. Take care.
RMI Guide LInden Mallory
RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from the summit of Mt. McKinley.
Congratulations and warm wishes to you all from Medford,Mass.Special congratulations to Paul Colaneri what a wonderful accomplishment. We are so happy for you. Your Proud co-workers.
Posted by: ann on 7/8/2011 at 12:00 pm
yeah Willie and congratulations to all - how exciting, can’t wait to see photos. So proud of you…envious too. Be safe !
Posted by: Aunt Chrissy in Colorado on 7/8/2011 at 11:59 am
Hey this is Seth and the Cotopaxi Express team checking in from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi. Overnight we had a lot of winds move in with clouds and some snow. Was a tough night for those trying for the summit. During the day today the wind has continued but the clouds are in-and-out and we are hopeful that we get a lull in the wind and we can try to punch it for the summit tonight. We had a nice day of training. Walked up about 45 minutes to over 16,000' at the toe of the glacier and did a bunch of training. Practiced our self-arrest skills and rope work and the team is psyched. I think we are going to try to head out between midnight and 2 a.m. this morning headed for the summit. And we'll call in and let you know.. hopefully we'll call you from the top. Hope all is well back home. Take care.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Seth Waterfall checks in from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi
I am confident you all will make it to the top weather permitting! Be safe and stay warm. Myself, I am heading to the beach today for two weeks and will be thinking of you all. Tell President Khan I will see him there. Enjoy the adventure! I know there will be a lifetime of tales to tell!
Posted by: Lyn Calloway on 7/8/2011 at 6:14 am
Darryl - We’re praying to see you at the top tomorrow. Have fun! Love, Dad and Jane
The Four Day Summit climb led by Brent Okita, Solveig Garhart and Dan Windham reached the top of Mt. Rainier today. The team reported clear skies and 20 mph winds. At 7:40 a.m. PT the teams were at 12,300' on their descent en route to Camp Muir.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons July 3 - 8 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by Mike Walter. The team will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.
Congratulations to today's summit teams!
When the alarm sounded this morning we stuck our head out of the tent and saw nothing but clear skies. The wind was blowing high up near the summit, sending whisps of snow flying off the ridge lines, but conditions between 14 Camp and high camp at 17,200' (17 Camp) were perfect: it was go time! It was cold again as we at breakfast and broke down camp but the team kept to task, by now everyone is comfortable working in the cold temperatures. Just after 8 am we headed out of 14 Camp, climbing the slopes back to the fixed lines and up to our previous high point at our cache at 16,200'. We climbed well to there, managing the bigger packs on the fixed lines without any problem.
After a break to eat and drink we set out up the West Buttress proper, climbing right along the ridge line for the final 1,000' to camp. The West Buttress is widely regarded as the finest climbing of the entire route and today did not disappoint: it was a simply spectacular afternoon of climbing. The sun was out, there was hardly a breath of wind, and the snow conditions were perfect. The team climbed strongly, weaving back and forth between the outcroppings of granite that pepper the ridge line and across the intermittent stretches of thin snow ridges between where the slopes fall away several thousand feet to each side. The big packs, high altitude, and exposure kept us focused and it was a hard day of climbing, but by the time we reached camp everyone was excited and smiling.
We set to work right away upon reaching 17 Camp, shoveling out a few previously used tent platforms that we're buried under several feet of new snow, touching up the snow walls in case the winds pick up, and setting up and anchoring down our tents. It was a calm and warm evening so we sat outside afterward, eating dinner and gazing across the patchwork of clouds below that stretched off into the interior of the North Slope of Alaska.
If the perfect weather that we have right now sticks around we're hoping to take advantage and make our summit bid tomorrow. The team is tired from the day but recovering well now that we're in camp and excited about giving it a shot tomorrow. We'll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
This is Dave calling from Mt. McKinley, from 11,000’ specifically. We had another great day today. In fact, it was the best weather of our trip so far. It was nice and cold this morning, we woke up at 5, and we had broken camp and were on the trail by 7 a.m. and made good time coming up to camp at 11,000’. It was again pretty easy going, there's not many other folks out there, there's nobody behind us that we are aware of. And so, it’s delightfully uncrowded. We had an easy go of it for the first hour up to the corner of Kahiltna Pass and then started up the hills to get to 11,000’. We were in camp before 10 o'clock a.m. so that went pretty well.
At camp we met Mike Haugen and his team coming down. And that was good for us. We exchanged a few pieces of gear they had some stuff that is going to be pretty helpful to us.
We got to chat with Mike and Elias and their team and congratulate them on their summit the other day.
We just set up camp here in 11,000’. It’s a beautiful bowl, looking out over the clouds and the tundra. We got settled in, it has just been very calm and nice here all day. Then this afternoon and this evening we prepared for doing our carry tomorrow. We are going to carry up and around Windy Corner if the weather continues to be good. And then come back down here and sleep at 11,000’ again. I will let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from 11,000' on Mt. McKinley.
Wayne, I have just finished having dinner with Dinah at our place and she has shared with Barb and I about your climb. I have to admit that I’m quite impressed that you would take on a challenge such as this. On the other hand, since I’ve done a 14k footer in Colorado, I won’t be TOO IMPRESSED until you have exceeded that altitude and beyond! HA! It will be fun to follow your progess and I wish you well in this endeavor. Be safe, my friend, enjoy your challenge and we will join in the celebration of your accomplishment.
All the best,
Tim Scully
Posted by: Tim Scully on 7/7/2011 at 6:34 pm
Glad you have the weather on your side and are able to move up the mountain - hope it continues.
Sue Currie
Hey, this is Seth calling from the Cotopaxi Express trip. We are up at the Jose Ribas hut at about 15,700 feet. Today we had a nice breakfast at the Chilcabamba Hacienda and after a relaxing time packing our stuff for the mountain we headed up into mix of sleet, clouds and high winds, We're all safely at the hut. We have to two nights here so hopefully the weather will clear up for us in a couple of days and we’ll get to punch it to the top. All's well here. We're having a great time. The hut is full of people from all over the world. Nothing but fun stuff. We’ll check in tomorrow. We hope everything is well back in the USA.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checks in from the hut on Cotopaxi.
Glad to know that all of you are doing well, I will pray for good weather so you all can have a good summit day, we are thinking of you. Get home save, we miss you
We are checking in from our descent back to Base camp. We stayed at 11,000' last night and are currently making our way to 7,800'. K2 Aviation has two planes scheduled to pick us up from the airstrip tomorrow morning. Let's hope the weather holds!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
RMI Guide Mike Haugen checks in from 7,800' on Mt. McKinley.
Patrick…I’ve been following you too! Put another notch in your belt for an adventure that will be with you always. You’re my hero and I look forward to seeing you soon.
Posted by: jan Ellis on 7/7/2011 at 6:33 pm
Let us hear from you when you can. Grey is getting his tonsils out this am.
Congrats! I’m so glad you lot were able to summit!
Posted by: Aimee on 7/8/2011 at 6:22 pm
Congrats to Frank & all - can’t wait for a first hand account.
Posted by: Pat & Jim on 7/8/2011 at 2:01 pm
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