Entries from Expedition Dispatches
South Col - 26,000 feet
After the early dinner, and into the sleeping bag full of boot liners, socks, water bottles and miscellaneous items you don't want frozen, which is another reason why it's an uncomfortable place to be.
Wake up call 10:10 pm.
Some climbers get a couple hours of sleep, others not. Lucky for the team, no interruptions during rest period. Seems like the other groups are taking care of their own issues, or the South Col climbers are not yet aware of anyone in need of help. Always a tough place to feel very relaxed, but in the tent and horizontal for a few hours will help get some strength back for the climb ahead. I remember one time at the Col, a guy who had just come down from the summit the day as I arrived at the Col, he just opened up my tent, stuck his head inside and started talking to me and my partner for at least two minutes before he realized that he did not know who we were. Scary, I promised myself never to be that out of it.
They have been breathing oxygen while resting, so dry mouth and feeling a bit rough because of the extreme altitude, are par for the course. You just have to shake it off and start getting ready. Fire the stoves for more tea, coffee, hot juice whatever you can choke down and don't forget the calories, you are going to need them. It's not optional, it's mandatory to get some food on board, no easier way to make the summit almost unreachable than no gas in the tank. How many layers? Did I put new batteries in my headlamp? Are these my special summit socks I have been saving? Goggles, sunscreen, sunglasses? Top off the water bottles, lunch packed? Extra gloves, rip open hand warmers to get them started, knife in pocket? Did I pack my lunch and some treats in easy to get at pockets? Camera, where's the camera? Oh, right here where it's supposed to be. All this and more in under one and a half hours because it's game time at midnight.
I wont bother them again until 12 a.m. As news becomes available you will be the first to know.
This is so cool! What's next?
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
(Mark Tucker, “Go ahead.”) Okay, this is Dave Hahn calling from the South Col at 26,000 feet. I’m sharing a tent with Linden Mallory. In a tent of a 6 feet from us Tshering, Dawa, and Kaji came all the way up from Camp 2 this morning. And what were perfect conditions. Like I say, we busted out at 2 in the morning, we were well up the wall. We were almost at 25,000 feet before the sun hit us. The conditions were just great on the face, the snow built up and then tromped down. There’s been a lot of traffic to it from high camp, there not supposed to summit for the last couple of days. So we were meeting all sorts of people we knew and people we didn’t know. A lot of sherpas carrying very heavy loads up and down. But we got here probably about 11 in the morning and all of us feeling good. Popped up some tents and we’ve been sitting in the sun. An occasional little breeze here. But conditions are very good; we are very optimistic about calling for tonight and supposed to summit. Mostly what we are doing right now is melting snow and drinking water and trying to undo the damage of a day of climbing a vertical mile at 26,000 feet. But like I say, very optimistic. I think that the weather is going to play out just right for us. One of the other climbers that are up here with us that are going to be on our summit day. So all is good and we are going to try and keep you updated as much as we can. (From Mark Tucker, “Okay, hope you guys got that. Cheerio.”)
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Dave Hahn checks in from the South Col
On The Map
This is the RMI Alaska Seminar checking in from the snowy Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Well, the storm is finally on us as we’re going to be right now. The tents are shaking and the snow is coming down. Today we built some bomber walls that are protecting the wind from our tents. The crew is settling in nicely and looking forward to weathering their first Alaskan storm up here. Hopefully the storm will precip tonight and clear out for tomorrow so we can do some crack rescue training. Stay tuned and we’ll check in tomorrow. Take care.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
RMI Guide Jason Thompson checks in from the Kahiltna Glacier
On The Map
Top of Geneva Spur.
The whole climbing team is about twenty minutes away from the South Col. Dave reports conditions on the route best ever. Weather still perfect. All members feeling GREAT. Perfect timing for them to get settled in at the Col and start resting for the early start from the Col for the push to the top.
They will continue to use oxygen while at the Col. Main goal will be to keep melting water, and drinking, drinking, drinking. It is so important to start this next part of the climb well hydrated. Sleep will be a bonus but not a necessity; calories into the tank a must. They will have to plan on very short and tough breaks on the way to the summit. Best to have as much of these elements in the bank stored up to withdraw from later.
Looking Good!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Incredible.
Posted by: John on 1/15/2014 at 5:29 pm
Hello to everybody following along!
It's been a couple of days or so since we last checked in but we've been very busy. Yesterday we picked up camp at 11,200' and moved up to 14,200'. The weather was decent for our move but turned south as the evening progressed. We were very glad that we spent the time building walls to protect our tents because the National Park Service weather station recorded gusts to 55 mph last night! Today we back-carried the rest of our supplies from our cache at Windy Corner and spent the rest of the afternoon digging out an elaborate posh (cook tent) despite pretty bad weather (snow & wind).
That's about it for now! Rest day tomorrow...
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Solveig Garhart and the crew
Also: Drew would like to wish his brother a happy birthday!
On The Map
Hey Solveig!!!
Just wanted to say hello and we are thinking of you!! Hope the weather gets better and everything goes smoothly.. Dylan wanted me to tell you he says hello and give you kisses!! :) He is getting so big, can’t wait to skype next!!
wishing you and the team good luck and good weather!!!
LOVE YOU!!!!!
Posted by: Tove on 5/20/2011 at 3:21 pm
I look forward to reading your blog. Stay strong and enjoy!
Drew, I love you and was thinking of you a lot yesterday. Mom
Posted by: Shirl on 5/20/2011 at 2:59 pm
Well, I think we can say the 2011 RMI Everest Summit push has begun.
Dave, Linden, Kaji, Dawa, and Tshering left Camp 2 early this morning under great climbing conditions. They have all passed through Camp 3 and are
making good time toward the South Col. Dave and Linden stopped at Camp 3 and strapped on bottles of oxygen while the Sherpa opt not to use O2 at this point. They sure are amazing climbers.
All is good up here. We will keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Thnx for the update Tuck. I didn’t get to meet you this season—was on the Island Peak leg with Linden & crew when you rolled into base camp.
Got caught up tonite on all the blog entries. Its 11:45pm PST, Thurs 5/19 my time. I won’t be able to get to sleep now…will be thinking of the boys up high & sending good karma their way.
Namaste & Dzum Dzum!
Posted by: Tim McLaughlin on 5/19/2011 at 11:46 pm
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Update: 5:00 pm PST -
Brent and his team got to within 5 minutes of Basecamp on the second flight before having to turn around and fly back to Talkeetna. The weather was just not cooperating.
As of 5:00 pm, the weather is improving and they are going to try it for the third time. Hopefully they will be in Basecamp in a few hours. We’ll keep you posted.
Update: 1 pm PST
Brent called, the team got about 20 minutes from the airstrip when a ground fog rolled in that prevented their landing at Basecamp. The plane is all packed with their gear ready to go, so right now they are back at the K2 Aviation Hanger having a great time celebrating Maile Wade’s birthday…Happy Birthday Maile!
Frank and Brent how about an update for old Hank living vicarously in Kabul. Hammer Gents!!
Posted by: Hank on 5/30/2011 at 11:25 am
Tell Frank Saunders (USA) that he’s the man!
Posted by: Carole Sullivan on 5/20/2011 at 8:00 pm
Well, it's day 15 of our trip and our first real storm day. Winds gusted to 55mph last night in camp, are gusty today and it's snowing lightly. We're in good spirits and have a good camp established here at 14k. And we're all optimistic that the weather will improve and give us a chance to move to high camp and go for the summit.
The RMI Team led by Billy Nugent, arrived in Camp 4 last night. It's good to see them; they are doing well. We shared our kitchen with them last night and today, so they have a sheltered spot to cook and eat while they work on excavating theirs today.
Keep your fingers crossed that the weather improves over the next few days. We're hanging tough and doing well...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Hi Jeff! Missing and thinking of you - hoping for good weather to come your way! I can’t believe it’s day 16 already - everyone from home says hi and is rooting for you. I am so proud of you, stay focused. Miss and love you lots!
Erica
Posted by: Erica on 5/20/2011 at 7:18 am
Hey Ken, Windy there, rainy here! We have had almost a week of overcast rainy weather. Ally and I are hoping the weather changes for the climb soon. The sun is suppose shine here tomorrow. All is well at the restaurant. Graduation is tomorrow. Pizza place still not open. We miss but are keeping busy. Love you Cathy & Ally!!
Posted by: Cathy Young on 5/20/2011 at 3:24 am
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Tomorrow begins the 21st chapter of my personal McKinley saga. It’s late and I’m kind of all packed up. Funny how after all these years of leading these expeditions the excitement just builds as I approach the date when we begin the trip. That day is tomorrow, when the other guides, Leon and Maile, and I fly up to Anchorage to meet the group and begin the expedition.
Both Leon and Maile are veteran McKinley guides. Leon guided with me two years ago, and Maile cut her teeth last year on her first trip. I’m pretty lucky to have these two guides working with me. Not only do they both have prior Denali experience, but they are great to work with. And it goes without saying, one of the key things to a successful, fun expedition is how folks get along on a trip. For three weeks we will be working hard, struggling at times, dealing with a sometimes uncomfortable and unforgiving environment. So the people we are literally tied to, day in and day out, really make or break a trip.
I know a fair number of the climbers on our trip, though not everyone. But that is also part of the fun of these expeditions: getting to know a group of people on a pretty intense level. I’m looking forward to it!
Reflecting on the relationships forged on these climbing adventures I just need to look back a few hours ago when I received an email from a team mate from my 1991 Everest trip. We noted that it was our 20th anniversary this week of our summit of that mountain. A different time in mountaineering history, to be sure, but what’s certainly not lost is that sense of companionship, team work and whatever else happens within a group of climbers when they set off to climb a big mountain like Everest… or Denali.
Perhaps even more meaningful was another email I got today from a climber with me last year who just ‘called out’ to wish me all the best for my upcoming climb. His outreach reminded me again of just how special these trips are. I guess I’m feeling pretty darned fortunate to be doing what I’m doing.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Dave and Linden are resting at Camp 2. Kaji and Dawa up to Camp 2 with last loads of equipment to help support the summit push. Dave, Linden, Kaji, Dawa, and Tsering up early tomorrow for the climb from Camp 2 to the South Col. Yubarj will support the effort from Camp 2 and one of the three climbing sherpa are slated to stay at the South Col in support of the Summit team.
Bill, Sara and myself made the early morning trek to the Heli pad with a ship headed our way till it ran into clouds. It started in Lukla, then returned to Lukla without Sara and Bill, but still on standby. At these altitudes, and good sized mountains near by, best to fly a bit conservative, you know what I mean. So Bill and Sara along with Lam Babu started hiking to Pheriche after lunch. They kept an eye on the weather and a hand on the phone in case they could fly from either Gorak Shep or Lobuche. Neither option happened and last I heard they were getting near Pheriche. They were enjoying the hike today and have no problem trekking all the way to Lukla in three days. Maybe tomorrow, weather permitting they will fly out of Pheriche enjoying one of the most spectacular flights you can imagine. Base Camp keeps getting less and less tents around but that's what happens around this time of the season.
We are all getting very excited about the next couple of days. Forecast is good. Team healthy and strong. Camps in place. A bit of luck, will make good
chance at the summit.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
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Linden checking in from Camp 2
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Way to go, Dave and Linden!!!!!! Can’t wait to hear about it, and to see your photos, Linden…
Safe descent!
Dana Marie
Posted by: Dana Marie Buchanan on 5/20/2011 at 7:25 pm
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